For all new growers with questions... Tons of information and answers..

simpsonsampson420

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
bobbychuck67 said:
Thank you!

Also I had a 1000w MH bulb blow up on me recently (before switching to HPS for flowering). I didn't return it because the shop treated me so well with that ballast swap and because it was probably my fault. I was running it on the boost setting with the glass on and the sides open but didn't have the vent fan hooked up because my room temps were ok. I also didn't know about the hot start no no. Now with the six inch in line fan hooked up I can actually leave my hand right on the glass it's so cool! Plus I'm really psyched that I can now contol the room temp and not suck out my supplimented CO2. Do you think this will prolong the life of my bulbes? Also someone told me you only suppliment CO2 in flower not veg that it's a waste of money. What do you think?
Click to expand...
basically your bulbs need changed out every couple grows to stay preforming well.. after a while you'll notice a big drop in their output and results.. so not blowing them up is good.. lol but you cant really prolong the bulbs life much past what it is good for...

now i've never heard of supplementing co2 during flowering.. i have read a few people that do it.. but the most benefit from it comes during veg period when you get the most growth from the plant.... i could see it being somewhat beneficial for flowering if you dont have a fresh air intake place.. but vegging is where its at...

jdizzle22 said:
Yesterday around 3pm I got done watering them with pH adjusted distilled with Superthrive (no ferts). How should I flush?

Should I wait until they need to be watered again, and then water with unaltered/unadjusted distilled or tap water (I presume it would still be best to let it sit out a day or 2 prior) once a day every day until its down? Or should I just water with distilled/tap*aired out as often as I normally would until the pH is back up? * most flushing guides seem to be for flowering
Click to expand...
most of the time when people talk about flushing they just assume its only at the end of flowering that it needs to be done.. normally, in a perfect situation, that is the truth... ideally we would only need to flush 1 time at the end of flowering.. and honestly that is really not even needed.. but thats a whole other issue in and of itself...

first what we need to do is find out if indeed you have salt build up in the soil.. the best way to do that is to water with ph adjust plain water (always want to make sure you are putting ph adjusted whatever through the plant to keep the roots happy) and check the ppm/ec of the runoff water compared to what it was before going in... if the water you put in has a 0ec and comes out with a 1.0ec then you know you have some salt issues...

the problem is that you just watered.. and over watering is not a good thing.. so let it ride until you need to water again... when you go to water next time run water through it until you get run off.. check the run off... if it is high then continue to run water through the pot until it drops down... less than a .5ec is good.... then we will go from there...
 
showhard2handle

showhard2handle

Well-Known Member
Sampson, what up my man?

Here goes.

Been a week since you helped me ID that nasty bastard. He was unceremoniously yanked the fuk out last Monday morning.)

All girls are still slowly developing flowers (fu it's slow to me, perhaps their bloom rate is entirely normal).

Don't wanna get excited, but I have yet to see any calyxes swell, nor any hairs die as you mentioned. However, I did also let a fukin male into my very pricey (supposedly) lady beans.

Been tryin to take descent pics for ya, but with the light off (hps), I can't get enough detail in the photo for you to give an accurate analysis I fear.

Gonna try & get ya some type of photo, not sure WTF w/ the photos. (The camera is actually less than a few months old & like 10megapixel or some shit, so it should look really sharp). So any pointers on takin close ups of the calyxes for you to view would be sweet.

Alright next point.

As I said I been poppin photo beans gettin them ready to replace autos in few weeks.

Here's my deal. I popped the first round last weekend, and had phenom. germination. However, Monday, when the shit hit the fan & I freaked my shit over that male, I neglected my rooters for too long & created some stunted growth on the first round.

Got a little freaked I wouldn't have enough to fill the system, so I kept poppin baby.

However, now I have several rooters at various stages of growth.

Bottom line, bout 6 were absolutely DONEsky with the rooters (my newb opinion of course, but they were bustin out them things like Oprah in a bikini or somethin).

So I had to out bout 6 into the 3" cubes, seem to have transitioned OK. Heres the thing, I have the cubes sittin on top of my prop tray (while I have bout 8 mre rooters waitin to look like oprah).

Long question longer, I need to hand water these rockwool cubes by hand until they are all in cubes & I can yank prop tray & have all cubes in proper tray w/ drip emitters on each cube.

Just need to know how many nutes (if any) you would add & some general guidelines on how much & often to hand water cubes.

Once all girls are in cubes, & each have their emitters, stake, etc.

I will I could use some general ideas how long & often to set timer for per day for the first couple a weeks.


Thanks a ton my man,
 
B

bobbychuck67

Member
simpsonsampson420 said:
basically your bulbs need changed out every couple grows to stay preforming well.. after a while you'll notice a big drop in their output and results.. so not blowing them up is good.. lol but you cant really prolong the bulbs life much past what it is good for...

now i've never heard of supplementing co2 during flowering.. i have read a few people that do it.. but the most benefit from it comes during veg period when you get the most growth from the plant.... i could see it being somewhat beneficial for flowering if you dont have a fresh air intake place.. but vegging is where its at...
Click to expand...
You sure do get conflicting advice sometimes. Grow shop dude said just the opposite. But I trust your advice. Also, I'm like you. I collect as much common sense information as I can, then I experiment a little to find what works best for me.

I still just have one room that I'm currently flowering in. Would like to try what you did. Can I start some auto seeds and let them grow in there with the 12/12 light cycle so I get a little jump start on the next harvest? I thought autos will grow and flower on their own with any light cycle. Thank as usual!
 
T

trojans10

Member
How to cover smell???????

Right now im growing in a refrigerator grow box and have an intake/outtake exhaust system. I was seeing what I should use?

Im on a tight budget right now. I bought some fish tank carbon filter and taped it on the exhaust but the fan was no strong enough to blow air through, and it smells. I need a quik fix, asap.

What else could I do? Dryer sheets? BTW, my outtake is 222cfm.

Thanks man, I appreciate the help.
 
showhard2handle

showhard2handle

Well-Known Member
Hey man, Sampson wil get ya the full 411.

In the interest of good time I will refer you what he referred to me.

I had a similar issue a few weeks back. He suggested something called Ona Gel. ($20 for the small container).

Have to purchase from a hydro specialty place. I ordered online & it was here in a few days. I'd find a hydro place that is clos to you geograpically & hit them up to save on overnite charges, etc.

But yeah dude, it works. Simply unscrew the lid & you prob. will put lid back on within a few hours. Neutralizes the shiz outta just about anything.

Good luck!
 
simpsonsampson420

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
showhard2handle said:
Sampson, what up my man?

Here goes.

Been a week since you helped me ID that nasty bastard. He was unceremoniously yanked the fuk out last Monday morning.)

All girls are still slowly developing flowers (fu it's slow to me, perhaps their bloom rate is entirely normal).

Don't wanna get excited, but I have yet to see any calyxes swell, nor any hairs die as you mentioned. However, I did also let a fukin male into my very pricey (supposedly) lady beans.

Been tryin to take descent pics for ya, but with the light off (hps), I can't get enough detail in the photo for you to give an accurate analysis I fear.

Gonna try & get ya some type of photo, not sure WTF w/ the photos. (The camera is actually less than a few months old & like 10megapixel or some shit, so it should look really sharp). So any pointers on takin close ups of the calyxes for you to view would be sweet.

Alright next point.

As I said I been poppin photo beans gettin them ready to replace autos in few weeks.

Here's my deal. I popped the first round last weekend, and had phenom. germination. However, Monday, when the shit hit the fan & I freaked my shit over that male, I neglected my rooters for too long & created some stunted growth on the first round.

Got a little freaked I wouldn't have enough to fill the system, so I kept poppin baby.

However, now I have several rooters at various stages of growth.

Bottom line, bout 6 were absolutely DONEsky with the rooters (my newb opinion of course, but they were bustin out them things like Oprah in a bikini or somethin).

So I had to out bout 6 into the 3" cubes, seem to have transitioned OK. Heres the thing, I have the cubes sittin on top of my prop tray (while I have bout 8 mre rooters waitin to look like oprah).

Long question longer, I need to hand water these rockwool cubes by hand until they are all in cubes & I can yank prop tray & have all cubes in proper tray w/ drip emitters on each cube.

Just need to know how many nutes (if any) you would add & some general guidelines on how much & often to hand water cubes.

Once all girls are in cubes, & each have their emitters, stake, etc.

I will I could use some general ideas how long & often to set timer for per day for the first couple a weeks.


Thanks a ton my man,
Click to expand...
hey bro... hows things going??

so flowering feels like its taking forever huh?? lol it will feel that way... then one day all of a sudden they will explode and swell like mad... then level off... then explode.. ive noticed its more of a spurt thing than a constant.. they will always continue to grow.. but you'll notice spurts that they just blow up over night... for a few days.. then level off again... this is the hardest part of the entire grow..

now.. with the cubes.... its best to soak the rockwool in ph'd water for a while... like over night ideally... before transplanting.. because the rockwool can raise ph.. and soaking them helps to level that out.. if you didnt its fine.. but its a good idea for the next batch.. basically soak them in a 1/4 strength grow solution (like you would add to the res for transplants).. and then shake them until they dont drip to transplant..

with the ones you already have going in them.. it will be hard to say how much and how often you'll need to water them... again the key is moist but not wet... mix up a batch of nutes like above... add 1 cup at a time to the cubes until you can see the solution start to come out of the bottom of the cube.. dont do the same cube over and over until you see it... add 1 cup to 1 cube, go to the next cube and do the same, ect, so the cube has enough time to thoroughly absorb the solution to get it accurate.. once you see moisture coming from the bottom, try to lift them off the ground some (so they can drip the excess out) and there ya go... ull see the sprouts/plants start to sag slightly as the cube drys out... that will be the sign you need to water again.. best to wait until you know for sure they are dry instead of overwatering them...

once you get them switched over to their own drippers we'll talk feeding then...

bobbychuck67 said:
You sure do get conflicting advice sometimes. Grow shop dude said just the opposite. But I trust your advice. Also, I'm like you. I collect as much common sense information as I can, then I experiment a little to find what works best for me.

I still just have one room that I'm currently flowering in. Would like to try what you did. Can I start some auto seeds and let them grow in there with the 12/12 light cycle so I get a little jump start on the next harvest? I thought autos will grow and flower on their own with any light cycle. Thank as usual!
Click to expand...
the idea you have for autos is fine... if you have the extra space throw some down! any light cycle you want to give them will grow them... 18/6 is optimum... i went 24/0 only because i was waiting on timers that came way to late.. and i didnt feel like plugging and unplugging ballasts 2 times a day.. lol

showhard2handle said:
Alright, fukd around w/ lighting & got some close up pics.

Give it to me straight. It's the little pods w/ the hairs stickin out that are what I think are the beans obviously. I squeezed one a day or 2 ago & just some juice squeezed out. The are firm for sure though.

Sweet lawd please let them be more little pre flowers or something because they are everywhere my man.


Lemme know & thanks as always.
Click to expand...
those are just calyxes bro... if they were seeds you would have seen a small pod in them forming.... they are firm because they are swollen... think of a female dog in heat with a swollen mudflap.... same thing with the flowers... sorta.... in a loosely translated way.. it sounds like your in the clear!

trojans10 said:
How to cover smell???????

Right now im growing in a refrigerator grow box and have an intake/outtake exhaust system. I was seeing what I should use?

Im on a tight budget right now. I bought some fish tank carbon filter and taped it on the exhaust but the fan was no strong enough to blow air through, and it smells. I need a quik fix, asap.

What else could I do? Dryer sheets? BTW, my outtake is 222cfm.

Thanks man, I appreciate the help.
Click to expand...
get some ONA GEL... http://www.onaonline.com/prod-onagel.html if you get a 1 gallon size container of it and just sit it in the proximity of your exhaust it will more than take care of the problem.. if you want you can even set small bowls of it out around your place for extra smell protection... ona is the shit tho.. works wonders!

showhard2handle said:
Hey man, Sampson wil get ya the full 411.

In the interest of good time I will refer you what he referred to me.

I had a similar issue a few weeks back. He suggested something called Ona Gel. ($20 for the small container).

Have to purchase from a hydro specialty place. I ordered online & it was here in a few days. I'd find a hydro place that is clos to you geograpically & hit them up to save on overnite charges, etc.

But yeah dude, it works. Simply unscrew the lid & you prob. will put lid back on within a few hours. Neutralizes the shiz outta just about anything.

Good luck!
Click to expand...
didnt even notice this was a reponse to the above question until just now.. lol normally i go through.. look at pics.. and just multi-response to everything before reading stuff..
 
simpsonsampson420

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
for further piece of mind SH2H... the original preflowers you see that are at the nodes will die like you see.. the pistils that come from them will die off.. so unless you see pistils dieing on the actual forming flowers.. and i dont mean 1 or 2 here and there... the entire flowers pistils will die.. then you are fine...
 
choempi

choempi

Well-Known Member
Sam, I am building a closet 2x3x8h, have split it into two chambers, the top is 54" and the bottom 42" with the plan to SOG for a monthly harvest of one chamber the other being 4 weeks or so behind. I will rotate up from the bottom monthly. I am building a flood and drain system for the top with an outside res.,due to space. My problem is what to do on the bottom chamber, as I can't use gravity to drain. I would like it to also be flood and drain but don't know how to do it.

If I can't figure out a way to set up a pump system for the bottom, I will have to probably go with DWC, which will cramp height and may lead to res heat issues due to going with a few small tubes.

Ideas?
 
showhard2handle

showhard2handle

Well-Known Member
simpsonsampson420 said:
for further piece of mind SH2H... the original preflowers you see that are at the nodes will die like you see.. the pistils that come from them will die off.. so unless you see pistils dieing on the actual forming flowers.. and i dont mean 1 or 2 here and there... the entire flowers pistils will die.. then you are fine...
Click to expand...

For real, wow, so fukn pumped that the sun might be shining on this dog's ass for once (I shouldn't say that I do have descent luck).

But for real, if those babies are un-tainted I will DANCE THE FUKING jig tonight, hell I'll do it right now. Those little pods (pre flowers) are EVERYWHERE I mean like multiple hundreds dude. I was guessing that they weren't beans, just do to the sheer quantity of them.

You are a god send homey, for sure. (Whether bizles are knocked up or not)

Gonna get ya a shot of the whole crew tonight 2 see if you can give a guess on approx. chop time, just to try & coordinate photo beans.

I'm not great with words here Goose, but I am lovin you (even if they are knocked up).

Thanks my man, more shots of the full crew tonight.
 
showhard2handle

showhard2handle

Well-Known Member
simpsonsampson420 said:
for further piece of mind SH2H... the original preflowers you see that are at the nodes will die like you see.. the pistils that come from them will die off.. so unless you see pistils dieing on the actual forming flowers.. and i dont mean 1 or 2 here and there... the entire flowers pistils will die.. then you are fine...
Click to expand...

Yeah, gave that huge response & just realized that I can barely understand "the extra piece of mind" you described in the quote above.

Could you please break down is if it were for a kindergartner. Sorry brother, I assure you that i will ask a lot of questions. But usually only once & I'll retain from there.

If you could take another shot @ a dummied down explanation, that would be wonderful.

Thanks again
 
simpsonsampson420

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
choempi said:
Sam, I am building a closet 2x3x8h, have split it into two chambers, the top is 54" and the bottom 42" with the plan to SOG for a monthly harvest of one chamber the other being 4 weeks or so behind. I will rotate up from the bottom monthly. I am building a flood and drain system for the top with an outside res.,due to space. My problem is what to do on the bottom chamber, as I can't use gravity to drain. I would like it to also be flood and drain but don't know how to do it.

If I can't figure out a way to set up a pump system for the bottom, I will have to probably go with DWC, which will cramp height and may lead to res heat issues due to going with a few small tubes.

Ideas?
Click to expand...
now this is a total assumption that you are talking about running clones 12/12.. and have a seperate veg/cloning area for rooting... otherwise this wont work..

alright.. the easiest fix would be to do this... (if its possible)

put the res on the ground instead of up top... put a pump in the res that will pump solution up to the top tray... attach that tray to the tray on the ground... so the as the solution runs through that tray it will gravity feed to the bottom tray.. which will be attached to the res... you just have to make sure the lower tray is higher than the water line in whatever you are using as a res... so the solution drains back into the res... with almost 4ft. of height in the bottom that shouldnt be a problem...

another idea you could do (if you want to keep the bottom tray on the ground instead of above the res) would consist of a pump in the res and one in the bottom tray.. still pump the solution up to the top tray.. let it gravity feed down to the bottom tray... and have a pump that pumps from the bottom tray back into the res... this would take some work with timers so that the lower "drain" pump in the bottom tray turns on when "fill" pump kicks on... since there will be no way to install a float valve.... and its somewhat risky on the off chance the bottom pump stops working... and really..

now after typing a few ideas i have 1 last idea.. and i think its the best..

it would involve purchasing one of these http://www.wormsway.com/detail.aspx?t=prod&sku=CAD200&AC=1 and two pumps....

set the res up outside the room.. whether its up top or the bottom wont matter....

run a pump from the res to the top tray... set it on a timer to turn on and off whenever you want...

run a tube from the top tray (opposite side from where the feeder tube is so solution runs across tray) to the bottom tray.. the bottom tray will need to be about 12" off the ground.. just slightly higher than the controller unit i showed you above...

run a tube from the opposite side as the feed tube to the controller bucket... so that the solution runs from one side of the tray to the other side and into the bucket...

place a pump in the bucket and plug it into the receptical that is connected to the lower float switches in the bucket.... there are 2 sets of float valves in the bucket.. and two plugs.. one goes to the top set of switches.. the other is to the lower switches.. you want the lower ones.. so that as the bucket fills and the water level passes that line the pump will turn on.. run a tube from the controller bucket pump to the original res...

now as long as the res pump is pumping solution from the top tray to the bottom tray the lower pump will pump it back into res... the controller bucket pump wont need to be put on a timer since the switch will shut the pump off when the water level gets low enough... if you need i can attempt to draw a pic.. but i think this is your best option...








showhard2handle said:
For real, wow, so fukn pumped that the sun might be shining on this dog's ass for once (I shouldn't say that I do have descent luck).

But for real, if those babies are un-tainted I will DANCE THE FUKING jig tonight, hell I'll do it right now. Those little pods (pre flowers) are EVERYWHERE I mean like multiple hundreds dude. I was guessing that they weren't beans, just do to the sheer quantity of them.

You are a god send homey, for sure. (Whether bizles are knocked up or not)

Gonna get ya a shot of the whole crew tonight 2 see if you can give a guess on approx. chop time, just to try & coordinate photo beans.

I'm not great with words here Goose, but I am lovin you (even if they are knocked up).

Thanks my man, more shots of the full crew tonight.
Click to expand...
showhard2handle said:
Yeah, gave that huge response & just realized that I can barely understand "the extra piece of mind" you described in the quote above.

Could you please break down is if it were for a kindergartner. Sorry brother, I assure you that i will ask a lot of questions. But usually only once & I'll retain from there.

If you could take another shot @ a dummied down explanation, that would be wonderful.

Thanks again
Click to expand...
im glad things are going well.. you'd know by now if they were pollinated for sure.. what you are describing is most definitely calyxes starting to swell.. they are what actually make up the flowers..

anyways.. that extra piece of mind was meant for when you see pistils at nodes (like the pic you took) and they are dead.. i didnt want you to freak out and think something was wrong...

also.. its worth noting.. throughout flowering pistils will die off and be replaced.. they die naturally.. but even rubbing up against them can make them turn red and die... so unless you are seeing an entire flower doing something like that then you are fine....
 
BluffinCali

BluffinCali

Well-Known Member
I recieved a seed that was covered in some sort of a green casing, just wondering what it was for? Just never seen a seed covered like that, assuming its a protective layer I guess, but any help would be appreciated. Thanks, peace
 
showhard2handle

showhard2handle

Well-Known Member
simpsonsampson420 said:
now this is a total assumption that you are talking about running clones 12/12.. and have a seperate veg/cloning area for rooting... otherwise this wont work..

alright.. the easiest fix would be to do this... (if its possible)

put the res on the ground instead of up top... put a pump in the res that will pump solution up to the top tray... attach that tray to the tray on the ground... so the as the solution runs through that tray it will gravity feed to the bottom tray.. which will be attached to the res... you just have to make sure the lower tray is higher than the water line in whatever you are using as a res... so the solution drains back into the res... with almost 4ft. of height in the bottom that shouldnt be a problem...

another idea you could do (if you want to keep the bottom tray on the ground instead of above the res) would consist of a pump in the res and one in the bottom tray.. still pump the solution up to the top tray.. let it gravity feed down to the bottom tray... and have a pump that pumps from the bottom tray back into the res... this would take some work with timers so that the lower "drain" pump in the bottom tray turns on when "fill" pump kicks on... since there will be no way to install a float valve.... and its somewhat risky on the off chance the bottom pump stops working... and really..

now after typing a few ideas i have 1 last idea.. and i think its the best..

it would involve purchasing one of these http://www.wormsway.com/detail.aspx?t=prod&sku=CAD200&AC=1 and two pumps....

set the res up outside the room.. whether its up top or the bottom wont matter....

run a pump from the res to the top tray... set it on a timer to turn on and off whenever you want...

run a tube from the top tray (opposite side from where the feeder tube is so solution runs across tray) to the bottom tray.. the bottom tray will need to be about 12" off the ground.. just slightly higher than the controller unit i showed you above...

run a tube from the opposite side as the feed tube to the controller bucket... so that the solution runs from one side of the tray to the other side and into the bucket...

place a pump in the bucket and plug it into the receptical that is connected to the lower float switches in the bucket.... there are 2 sets of float valves in the bucket.. and two plugs.. one goes to the top set of switches.. the other is to the lower switches.. you want the lower ones.. so that as the bucket fills and the water level passes that line the pump will turn on.. run a tube from the controller bucket pump to the original res...

now as long as the res pump is pumping solution from the top tray to the bottom tray the lower pump will pump it back into res... the controller bucket pump wont need to be put on a timer since the switch will shut the pump off when the water level gets low enough... if you need i can attempt to draw a pic.. but i think this is your best option...












im glad things are going well.. you'd know by now if they were pollinated for sure.. what you are describing is most definitely calyxes starting to swell.. they are what actually make up the flowers..

anyways.. that extra piece of mind was meant for when you see pistils at nodes (like the pic you took) and they are dead.. i didnt want you to freak out and think something was wrong...

also.. its worth noting.. throughout flowering pistils will die off and be replaced.. they die naturally.. but even rubbing up against them can make them turn red and die... so unless you are seeing an entire flower doing something like that then you are fine....
Click to expand...

Wow, you really think I am in the clear (lawdy thank you)?

Really dumb question, but is there anyway to be 100% sure before the chop?

Also, any rough time frame on the chop?

I'll get some pics up tonight, just effin siked that I may have dodged a bullet.

THanks for sticking with me goose!

I know you hear it all day, but Goose, you truly are the man!
 
choempi

choempi

Well-Known Member
simpsonsampson420 said:
now this is a total assumption that you are talking about running clones 12/12.. and have a seperate veg/cloning area for rooting... otherwise this wont work..

alright.. the easiest fix would be to do this... (if its possible)

put the res on the ground instead of up top... put a pump in the res that will pump solution up to the top tray... attach that tray to the tray on the ground... so the as the solution runs through that tray it will gravity feed to the bottom tray.. which will be attached to the res... you just have to make sure the lower tray is higher than the water line in whatever you are using as a res... so the solution drains back into the res... with almost 4ft. of height in the bottom that shouldnt be a problem...

another idea you could do (if you want to keep the bottom tray on the ground instead of above the res) would consist of a pump in the res and one in the bottom tray.. still pump the solution up to the top tray.. let it gravity feed down to the bottom tray... and have a pump that pumps from the bottom tray back into the res... this would take some work with timers so that the lower "drain" pump in the bottom tray turns on when "fill" pump kicks on... since there will be no way to install a float valve.... and its somewhat risky on the off chance the bottom pump stops working... and really..

now after typing a few ideas i have 1 last idea.. and i think its the best..

it would involve purchasing one of these http://www.wormsway.com/detail.aspx?t=prod&sku=CAD200&AC=1 and two pumps....

set the res up outside the room.. whether its up top or the bottom wont matter....

run a pump from the res to the top tray... set it on a timer to turn on and off whenever you want...

run a tube from the top tray (opposite side from where the feeder tube is so solution runs across tray) to the bottom tray.. the bottom tray will need to be about 12" off the ground.. just slightly higher than the controller unit i showed you above...

run a tube from the opposite side as the feed tube to the controller bucket... so that the solution runs from one side of the tray to the other side and into the bucket...

place a pump in the bucket and plug it into the receptical that is connected to the lower float switches in the bucket.... there are 2 sets of float valves in the bucket.. and two plugs.. one goes to the top set of switches.. the other is to the lower switches.. you want the lower ones.. so that as the bucket fills and the water level passes that line the pump will turn on.. run a tube from the controller bucket pump to the original res...

now as long as the res pump is pumping solution from the top tray to the bottom tray the lower pump will pump it back into res... the controller bucket pump wont need to be put on a timer since the switch will shut the pump off when the water level gets low enough... if you need i can attempt to draw a pic.. but i think this is your best option...


I should have explained myself better, but in the end it really wouldn't have mattered much I guess. Height is the issue in the bottom chamber, and perhaps their is no fix to that issue.

My plan is to flower clones direct into 12/12 in the bottom chamber for the first half of flowering using a seperate res with different nutes and the top chamber with the appropriate nutes for the last half of flower, giving a more or less monthly harvest on rotation with the bottom moving into the top.
If I could give up 12' for the fix you suggest it would be more cost effective to DWC, but only having 30" height left for plants and light (400w HPS) and I doubt it would be enough, or would it?

The top chamber is complete (built and airtight and mylar lined) and will be ordering HPS and assorted pump and parts for two 12"x24" flood trays. I intend to build this system over the next few months adding till complete, for 2 chambers ( clone/mother room seperate) right now I have bagseed germinating in sure to grow 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" cubes in a humidity dome. The two chambers will be using seperate passive air intakes but share an outake system using a 6" inline fan exhausted into the floor above (another closet).

I am still planning the system as far as nuts and bolts, but the vision is a monthly harvest. The plants I have germinating are a testing run for the overall environment, using the top chamber while the bottom chamber is built.

Anyhoo, I must thank you for your detailed reply, and I know you put a lot of thought into it, the problem is a difficult one as I had guessed it was, but there is time for me to decide on the course to take as for this damn bottom chamber...
Click to expand...
 
J

jdizzle22

Well-Known Member
Ok so I have no experience in sexing plants, but I just noticed something about alma. Ok so where all her little like tiny tips of blades of grass things that grow into new branches coming off the main stem at the base of other branches... I noticed something! Out of the tip of one of these things *that looks like the tip of a blade of grass growing off the plant* This thing that looks like how i will try to describe - its as thin as a hair and looks like it is covered in thin white hairs *the whole thing is really as thick as a hair* I don't know if these is a sign of femininity or just the next stage of that thing turning into a branch.

*Shoot, I just found some more on another plant that are growing larger. Those super thin things are just new branches coming in aren't they? :(
*upon further inspection it would appear that each plant has this* things that look like the ends of a blade of grass growing out of the base of branches that have a 'white hair' growing out of them... Female preflowers? or just new branches? *how many branches can come out of one spot anyway? haha*

Update: Ok my biggest plant is definitely showing preflowers! She has the little things with the 2 whit hairs coming out just like in all the pictures I can find. Each of the 3 plants is beginning to feature these, but only one of them its really obvious, on another you can just barely tell *if u have good vision* that there are 2 hairs that just haven't split much! Woot, ok so at this stage I guess I am asking what the chances are that they could be trannys, and the chance that these aren't what I think they are! Also: I think 2 of the plants started alternating nodes last week. I look at some of the branches that are 3/4 of the way up and higher and some of them feature a difference of like less than a 1/4 of an inch. They are definitely not aligned the same as lower branches, but its not enough of a difference that I feel for sure that they are alternating.

Even though some of them look exactly like the ones in sexing photos online, there are things that look like that is what they used to be... o_O o_O confusion
 
M

Mr frosty

Member
Hey there simpsonsampson I just want to let you no my first attempt at supper cropping went well
I did all 4 of my girls and WOW ! The results wer amazing the arms have all pushed up and bushed out ! I supper cropped each girl twice and again ! Wow ! I can't thank you enough ! I've just purchased some critical mass from mr nice 14 seeds can you advise me on this strain ? I'm going to try soil first cropp then I'm going to try cocco with canna feed ! Also what's your thoughts on ozone genertors ? And led lighting ? Thanks again for the help and advice on fim'ing Tec & supper cropping !
 
simpsonsampson420

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
BluffinCali said:
I recieved a seed that was covered in some sort of a green casing, just wondering what it was for? Just never seen a seed covered like that, assuming its a protective layer I guess, but any help would be appreciated. Thanks, peace
Click to expand...
some companies cover their seeds with a color coating chart... they usually do that when you get a mixed assortment of seeds... its odd they would do it with 1 single seed.. i havent ever heard any real good things about the color coated ones... hopefully you have good luck!

showhard2handle said:
Wow, you really think I am in the clear (lawdy thank you)?

Really dumb question, but is there anyway to be 100% sure before the chop?

Also, any rough time frame on the chop?

I'll get some pics up tonight, just effin siked that I may have dodged a bullet.

THanks for sticking with me goose!

I know you hear it all day, but Goose, you truly are the man!
Click to expand...
it sounds like it... really... you'll know far before the chop if they have been pollinated tho... you'll either see seed pods break open or... well really thats the big thing.. you'll be able to see the seeds far before chop.. plus the pistils will die on the pollinated flower... or should have by now... i think you just made it in time..

choempi said:
simpsonsampson420 said:
I should have explained myself better, but in the end it really wouldn't have mattered much I guess. Height is the issue in the bottom chamber, and perhaps their is no fix to that issue.

My plan is to flower clones direct into 12/12 in the bottom chamber for the first half of flowering using a seperate res with different nutes and the top chamber with the appropriate nutes for the last half of flower, giving a more or less monthly harvest on rotation with the bottom moving into the top.
If I could give up 12' for the fix you suggest it would be more cost effective to DWC, but only having 30" height left for plants and light (400w HPS) and I doubt it would be enough, or would it?

The top chamber is complete (built and airtight and mylar lined) and will be ordering HPS and assorted pump and parts for two 12"x24" flood trays. I intend to build this system over the next few months adding till complete, for 2 chambers ( clone/mother room seperate) right now I have bagseed germinating in sure to grow 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" cubes in a humidity dome. The two chambers will be using seperate passive air intakes but share an outake system using a 6" inline fan exhausted into the floor above (another closet).

I am still planning the system as far as nuts and bolts, but the vision is a monthly harvest. The plants I have germinating are a testing run for the overall environment, using the top chamber while the bottom chamber is built.

Anyhoo, I must thank you for your detailed reply, and I know you put a lot of thought into it, the problem is a difficult one as I had guessed it was, but there is time for me to decide on the course to take as for this damn bottom chamber...
Click to expand...
alright.. here is one more idea... that basically follows the same guide line as the last idea... but modified slightly...

in order for the controller bucket pump to turn on the water level must raise the float switch to the on position.. the float valve that needs to do this is only a few inches (if that) off the bottom of the bucket....

if you raised the bottom trays about 4 inches from ground, ran a tube from the tray into the controller bucket (through the side of the bucket so it empties an inch or so above the float valve), and then ran things that way you would still be fine...

reason i bring this up again (knowing you want 2 seperate res's) is that you dont need to have 2 seperate res's... 1 res feeding both of them a flowering solution around 1.4 to 1.6 ec will be perfect... for both the new girls and the older girls.. i know this goes against a lot of what you have probably read, but plants can take a lot of nutes without problem... their root systems only absorb the water and nutes that are needed... they dont just open the flood gate to whatever is available... as long as you have ample light (sounds like you will), balanced ph (top 3 most important things), and good environmental control, then they will flurish just fine using the 1 res... assuming that they have good roots... which im sure they will..

if you are really stuck on having a seperate res for the bottom chamber tho, you can always stick with the same basic plan as above.. except the top tray is looped to its own res.... the bottom tray is done the same way as i mentioned.. except instead of the controller bucket pumping back into the orginal res it pumps into its own.. basically the controller bucket allows you to limit how high off the ground the tray has to be (no more than 6" off the ground) and serves as a stepping stone for the nute solution to get from the tray to the res again... if that makes more sense??

hopefully im giving you some ideas or getting closer to an answer for ya.. ill keep trying until we get it figured out tho!


jdizzle22 said:
Ok so I have no experience in sexing plants, but I just noticed something about alma. Ok so where all her little like tiny tips of blades of grass things that grow into new branches coming off the main stem at the base of other branches... I noticed something! Out of the tip of one of these things *that looks like the tip of a blade of grass growing off the plant* This thing that looks like how i will try to describe - its as thin as a hair and looks like it is covered in thin white hairs *the whole thing is really as thick as a hair* I don't know if these is a sign of femininity or just the next stage of that thing turning into a branch.

*Shoot, I just found some more on another plant that are growing larger. Those super thin things are just new branches coming in aren't they? :(
*upon further inspection it would appear that each plant has this* things that look like the ends of a blade of grass growing out of the base of branches that have a 'white hair' growing out of them... Female preflowers? or just new branches? *how many branches can come out of one spot anyway? haha*

Update: Ok my biggest plant is definitely showing preflowers! She has the little things with the 2 whit hairs coming out just like in all the pictures I can find. Each of the 3 plants is beginning to feature these, but only one of them its really obvious, on another you can just barely tell *if u have good vision* that there are 2 hairs that just haven't split much! Woot, ok so at this stage I guess I am asking what the chances are that they could be trannys, and the chance that these aren't what I think they are! Also: I think 2 of the plants started alternating nodes last week. I look at some of the branches that are 3/4 of the way up and higher and some of them feature a difference of like less than a 1/4 of an inch. They are definitely not aligned the same as lower branches, but its not enough of a difference that I feel for sure that they are alternating.

Even though some of them look exactly like the ones in sexing photos online, there are things that look like that is what they used to be... o_O o_O confusion
Click to expand...
what you are seeing are female preflowers... thats a good thing


and you are also seeing alternating nodes.. which is a good thing also..

what this means is you have some lovely ladies that are telling you they are ready to flower when you want them too... congrats!

Mr frosty said:
Hey there simpsonsampson I just want to let you no my first attempt at supper cropping went well
I did all 4 of my girls and WOW ! The results wer amazing the arms have all pushed up and bushed out ! I supper cropped each girl twice and again ! Wow ! I can't thank you enough ! I've just purchased some critical mass from mr nice 14 seeds can you advise me on this strain ? I'm going to try soil first cropp then I'm going to try cocco with canna feed ! Also what's your thoughts on ozone genertors ? And led lighting ? Thanks again for the help and advice on fim'ing Tec & supper cropping !
Click to expand...
well first off im glad the SC went well.. it really is amazing what it can do.. and the more you do it the better at it you get and the more results you get... so keep it up!

critical mass is a great strain.. not the most potent in the world.. but a solid smoke and great yielder.. its roots are from big bud and skunk i belive.. could be wrong.. but pretty sure.. anyways.. its an easy strain to grow.. pretty forgiving all around... can take a stronger nutes if you want her too... should make for a nice grow...

i like coco.. not much salt build up in it... just be aware of ph.. i am almost sure coco, like rockwool, can fuck with ph... never used canna nutes.. interested to see results tho...

soil is fun.. there are things about it i miss... like being able to custom feed each plant by itself.. but it is messy.. and a pain... plus hydro results are insane...

ozone generators are ok... there are a few problems with them.. first they dont make sense for smaller grows.. most ozone generators cover a huge area.. for only a few plants it overkill.. speaking of killing, ozone is extremely dangerous in high levels.. this means constant adjusting of on/off times with it to get it locked in where you want... and within a safe range.. and lastly to be truely affective they need to be placed in a sealed room where the exhaust air goes and is allowed to set and be ran through the ozone machine... really its kinda a hassle... for something small just stick with an inline carbon filter, a can filter, or some ona gel...
Click to expand...
 
simpsonsampson420

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
forgot to chime in about led lighting....

its a waste of money.... it truely is.... granted its cheap to run... and you do get results.. its a genuine waste of money...

if you base end results on overall yield (not gram per watt nessicarily) then you would be crazy to get led over hps... it would take probably 5 times the leds to get the same result you get from 1 hps... no, this isnt from personal experience.. but i have done a LOT of following of led journals to see if they get better..

right now the technology is weak... and WAY WAY WAY over priced... maybe someday they might figure it out and get leds that are worth it.. but for now.. its not and they arent..
 
J

jdizzle22

Well-Known Member
Ok so including her pot, my tallest plant is currently half as tall as the whole tent. If she is going to double between right this second and right when i cut her to piece, there might not be enough room... She is easily a foot taller than the next tallest, who is almost a foot taller than the smallest. I think I will need to chop the tallest in half... I think she is too old *52 days above dirt* to lst, stem is probably too strong. Is there any way I might chop her in half and possibly plant the other half? I would hate for so much of her to go to waste but I worry there will not be enough room in there for 8 or more weeks of flowering. Also: When initiating flowering, is it better to start by having them sleep in longer or stay up later?

PS: Well I guess I could lst her... Try to make her lay her as sideways as I could... most of the leafs will adjust right? Almost seems weird to think they can twist sideways and realign them selves with the light. I'm not sure how I should lst a 2 foot plant. They aren't in massive pots. I guess i will have to use weights and string or something
 
simpsonsampson420

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
i wouldnt try to cut her in half.. your best bet is to work on LST'ing her... just do it over a week or so.. bending a little more every day.. until you get it where you want it... it will bend and adjust itself to get the light....

and as far as flowering goes you'll always want more dark than light... its better to run an extended dark period vs. light...
 
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