For all new growers with questions... Tons of information and answers..

simpsonsampson420 said:

wow bro.. you are lucky!! only 6 seeds?!?! thats great that it wasnt any worse than that... when it happened to me i wasnt near as lucky at all... pretty much lost 70% of my crop.. but of course when it happened to me the male just happened to be in front of an oscilating fan... it just threw the pollen everywhere...

Click to expand...

Here are a couple pics from that first grow, round about mid flower. Sorry about the shitty color. I should correct out all that yellow some day.

bobbychuck67 said:

New pics of the current (second) grow. See what following Sampson's advice will get you! SWEET! Can someone say FLOWER TIME!

Click to expand...

Dude I believe it. Homey got me thru this far. Ev thing was goin perfect, til the prick reared his ugly head (and I didn;t ID him of course).

The very best part was that the day before I discovered that nasty Y chromosone, I posted some pics tellin sampson how pimp my virgin grow was goin. HA
Famous last words my friend.

Nah, I know sampson's got the goods. Like online free tech support. I mean his time & help has been invaluable.

If I can just keep those nasty fellers out of there, should be good to go.

Sampson, question for you.

In my little ass tent, I could fit x2- 400watt hps's. DO you think that's too much juice in that small a tent (20"x36"x62"). I do have that diesel ass 6"HO can fan original, pumpin like 392 cfm.

I did the math using that formula, and with the cubic feet of my tent & those cfm, the air gets totally exchanged over x2 per minute.

I had to get a speedster (fan speed control thingie though i'm sure you knew that). & have it runnin on the absolute lowest speed & still my temps are round 75. Bottom line I am very certain I can cool it proper.

I am just worried that I am runnin to much juice to one outlet.

Any guidance u could give on juice would be wicked.

Essentially, I have run one heavy duty orange extension cord & have x2 power strips runnin to it.

I am gettin ready to fire up the photo girls' set up. (Just x1- waterfarm for x2 girls), and the rest are goin in 3" rockwool til the autos are done (con semillas, prayin to sweet lord its sinse).

Also, took some pics of the nodules closest to where the prick sprayed his shiz. DIdn't work out real well, I'll try again in the morning. The flowers have gotten larger today. But whatev, if the farked their farked. I'll focus on photos.

You da man, thanks for outtin up wit me.

showhard2handle said:

Dude I believe it. Homey got me thru this far. Ev thing was goin perfect, til the prick reared his ugly head (and I didn;t ID him of course).

The very best part was that the day before I discovered that nasty Y chromosone, I posted some pics tellin sampson how pimp my virgin grow was goin. HA
Famous last words my friend.

Nah, I know sampson's got the goods. Like online free tech support. I mean his time & help has been invaluable.

If I can just keep those nasty fellers out of there, should be good to go.

Click to expand...

Get the fem'd seeds. I did. What do you think of the pics?

bobbychuck67 said:

Get the fem'd seeds. I did. What do you think of the pics?

Click to expand...

dude, super sexy, wish ya lawdy lawdy i wish my girls were untainted & looked like that. Respek me brova!

I'm really holdin out hope that I'm in the clear, flowers are still pumpin out. But I suppose flowers would continue to form whether they were knocked up or not.

Gonna wait a day or 2 & then throw some pics up & see if yall can't tell for sure if they are with child are not.

Again, nice grow bud, thanks for the input w/ my little debacle.

Stay up & feel free 2 holla back

showhard2handle said:

Right on my man, thanks for the condolences bout my situation. Yeah, pretty fukn sure that Sex will be something I am even more anal retentive than I already am on (pun intenededfor sure).

Nah for real, it is blowin me right now. Feel like a total twerp if i pissed all that flow away.

But sampson had a descent point. I am breaking my cherry here, and @ least I know that I can take care of 'em the way they need (I just drop the fukn ball on the goal line, I'd be lost w/ out some good old self deprecating humor).)

Thanks again for the feedback bro.
http://ask.reference.com/web?q=self+deprecating&qsrc=19&o=10616&l=dir

Click to expand...

it happens to the best of us.. i missed a male when i had a fucked crop too... once you get into clones and fem'd seeds tho the worry goes way way down....

just keep things up.. no worries! theres always a next time!

bobbychuck67 said:

New pics of the current (second) grow. See what following Sampson's advice will get you! SWEET! Can someone say FLOWER TIME!

Click to expand...

bobbychuck67 said:

Here are a couple pics from that first grow, round about mid flower. Sorry about the shitty color. I should correct out all that yellow some day.

Click to expand...

looking good bro... veg'in girls are really happy looking... keep it up! and thanks

showhard2handle said:

Dude I believe it. Homey got me thru this far. Ev thing was goin perfect, til the prick reared his ugly head (and I didn;t ID him of course).

The very best part was that the day before I discovered that nasty Y chromosone, I posted some pics tellin sampson how pimp my virgin grow was goin. HA
Famous last words my friend.

Nah, I know sampson's got the goods. Like online free tech support. I mean his time & help has been invaluable.

If I can just keep those nasty fellers out of there, should be good to go.

Sampson, question for you.

In my little ass tent, I could fit x2- 400watt hps's. DO you think that's too much juice in that small a tent (20"x36"x62"). I do have that diesel ass 6"HO can fan original, pumpin like 392 cfm.

I did the math using that formula, and with the cubic feet of my tent & those cfm, the air gets totally exchanged over x2 per minute.

I had to get a speedster (fan speed control thingie though i'm sure you knew that). & have it runnin on the absolute lowest speed & still my temps are round 75. Bottom line I am very certain I can cool it proper.

I am just worried that I am runnin to much juice to one outlet.

Any guidance u could give on juice would be wicked.

Essentially, I have run one heavy duty orange extension cord & have x2 power strips runnin to it.

I am gettin ready to fire up the photo girls' set up. (Just x1- waterfarm for x2 girls), and the rest are goin in 3" rockwool til the autos are done (con semillas, prayin to sweet lord its sinse).

Also, took some pics of the nodules closest to where the prick sprayed his shiz. DIdn't work out real well, I'll try again in the morning. The flowers have gotten larger today. But whatev, if the farked their farked. I'll focus on photos.

You da man, thanks for outtin up wit me.

Click to expand...

you can definitely work with 2 x 400s in there quite nicely... the heat and everything should stay well within range...

what im worried about is the power... how many amps is the extension cord rated for altogether?? im sure you can fit another 400w lamp on it without issues... but the power strips might not... i wish i could see a little better how your electrical was ran... but i am almost 100% sure you can add another lamp with no issues..

bobbychuck67 said:

Get the fem'd seeds. I did. What do you think of the pics?

Click to expand...

fem'd is almost always the way to go.. unless you plan on breeding..

showhard2handle said:

dude, super sexy, wish ya lawdy lawdy i wish my girls were untainted & looked like that. Respek me brova!

I'm really holdin out hope that I'm in the clear, flowers are still pumpin out. But I suppose flowers would continue to form whether they were knocked up or not.

Gonna wait a day or 2 & then throw some pics up & see if yall can't tell for sure if they are with child are not.

Again, nice grow bud, thanks for the input w/ my little debacle.

Stay up & feel free 2 holla back

Click to expand...

flowers will stop growing once pollinated and begin to concentrate on seed production... if they are still growing there is a pretty good chance your in the clear.. ill be able to tell with new pics in a few days...


ok.. attempt #2 at loading pics... and again EPIC FAIL............ anyone else having issues?

simpsonsampson420 said:

it happens to the best of us.. i missed a male when i had a fucked crop too... once you get into clones and fem'd seeds tho the worry goes way way down....

just keep things up.. no worries! theres always a next time!





looking good bro... veg'in girls are really happy looking... keep it up! and thanks



you can definitely work with 2 x 400s in there quite nicely... the heat and everything should stay well within range...

what im worried about is the power... how many amps is the extension cord rated for altogether?? im sure you can fit another 400w lamp on it without issues... but the power strips might not... i wish i could see a little better how your electrical was ran... but i am almost 100% sure you can add another lamp with no issues..




fem'd is almost always the way to go.. unless you plan on breeding..



flowers will stop growing once pollinated and begin to concentrate on seed production... if they are still growing there is a pretty good chance your in the clear.. ill be able to tell with new pics in a few days...


ok.. attempt #2 at loading pics... and again EPIC FAIL............ anyone else having issues?

Click to expand...

Sampsob, first thing bro, thanks for the kind words & condolences bout @ least knowin I can grow & do it well. Comin from you, that means alot.

Alright enough with the warm fuzzy shit. Yeah bro, they flowers are continuing to keep kickin out some fuzzy pussies (old cheech & chong ref. not a perv).

Yeah anyway, don't wanna jynx myself like the way I did the day before I found that dirty bastard (when i was braggin bout how well things were goin a day before the bottom fell out, HA) ,man I gotta laugh @ myself sometimes. Only thing that keeps me sane.

Second off, circling back to actual business.

Just lemme know what type of info. you need regarding the juice. I really need some more light in that piece. & I believe I would be better served w/ x2- 400watts, as opposed to x1-600.

Do you need me to tell you what the ext. cord says on it?

I can tell you that it is runnn from an industrial lookin outlet in attic (I think it may be an untapped source, cause nothing is shortin out, & its an old ass house). So it would short out if other shit was plugged runnin on it.

But it's the thickest gauge orange extension cord you can get, it's a 50 footer. Got that dropping thru ceiling & a big indutrial 3 way splitter (the type that are the same real heavy duty orange cord).

Thats about all I can provide unless you specify exactly what I need to tell you .

ALL I know about electricity, is that its some serious shit that novices need not fuk with. So I guess I know enough to stay the fuk away.

But would love some knowledge. Lemme know, sorry that it takes me writin a novel to get mt point across.


Lemme know, even been thinking bout even taking a course @ a tech school or something. Fuckin sweet that your best bro is schooled up.

Stay up brother, respond back if you can ever finish readin my post.haha

thanks for evthing samps

Sampson, so i grabbed some of that ona gel ya told me.

The directions are super descriptive, its something like:
"Expose more surface area until you reach desired effect" or some shit like that.

Could you translate that. Spread on some type of medium, like a plate perhaps?

Sorry if this is a dumb one, just wanna know how you use it.

preesh homey

This picture was from the first day I put them in their nice tent with a 400w hortilux super hps. To keep a proper distance from the light I put my hand in and point it vertically, as long as I canfit the base of my hand and the tip of my middle finger between the tops and the glass then the light is not too close.

Anyway: How much water do you think I should use when i water them? For quite a while I've been going with a full gallon, then lately a little over a gallon (maybe like 4/3rds). I just don't have much concept for this sort of thing (seems to be enough). As long as the pots are not too big should I go back to soaking? Would it make much of a difference if I went up to 2 gallons each with a teaspoon of growbig?

They haven't yellowed any worse, and any yellowing seems to have improved a little. Tips that were dieing are dieing incredibly slow compared to when they first started having that problem (when I thought they had a fungus, when the bulb touched one for an hour).

Ok so I have this tent and it has 3 air flaps/windows around the bottom. Not light proof at all, although the base of my plants is higher than the tops of the windows. I am wondering if there is any real simple way to light proof the air intakes. Its extremely light proof all zipped up with flaps down etc, but I imagine there isn't enough air to draw from in that case. How much light is really too much during flowering? If I keep the curtains drawn and the light off (still a little bit of light will leak in, esp if monitor is on?) and keep the flaps most exposed to light closed (and one not) would that be fine? People seem to make a big deal out of zero light during 12 hours of dark for flowering. But like you told me once, there is moonlight in nature (does that moonlight affect the end product a lot?)

PS: I tried to add some more photos but it will only let me have 2?

showhard2handle said:

Sampsob, first thing bro, thanks for the kind words & condolences bout @ least knowin I can grow & do it well. Comin from you, that means alot.

Alright enough with the warm fuzzy shit. Yeah bro, they flowers are continuing to keep kickin out some fuzzy pussies (old cheech & chong ref. not a perv).

Yeah anyway, don't wanna jynx myself like the way I did the day before I found that dirty bastard (when i was braggin bout how well things were goin a day before the bottom fell out, HA) ,man I gotta laugh @ myself sometimes. Only thing that keeps me sane.

Second off, circling back to actual business.

Just lemme know what type of info. you need regarding the juice. I really need some more light in that piece. & I believe I would be better served w/ x2- 400watts, as opposed to x1-600.

Do you need me to tell you what the ext. cord says on it?

I can tell you that it is runnn from an industrial lookin outlet in attic (I think it may be an untapped source, cause nothing is shortin out, & its an old ass house). So it would short out if other shit was plugged runnin on it.

But it's the thickest gauge orange extension cord you can get, it's a 50 footer. Got that dropping thru ceiling & a big indutrial 3 way splitter (the type that are the same real heavy duty orange cord).

Thats about all I can provide unless you specify exactly what I need to tell you .

ALL I know about electricity, is that its some serious shit that novices need not fuk with. So I guess I know enough to stay the fuk away.

But would love some knowledge. Lemme know, sorry that it takes me writin a novel to get mt point across.


Lemme know, even been thinking bout even taking a course @ a tech school or something. Fuckin sweet that your best bro is schooled up.

Stay up brother, respond back if you can ever finish readin my post.haha

thanks for evthing samps

Click to expand...

here is what i would need to know to really help you out.. all i need to know is how many amps the circuit you are using is and how many amps the power strips you are using are rated for...

as far as lighting goes i would actually say go with 1 x 600 over 2 x 400s... much better efficiency and 200ws less... plus better penetration power... theres a good possibility that you could run a 600w lamp without a reflector at all (maybe a batwing style one if anything) and just have the exhaust pulling the heat out and still remain within temp range... that would be ideal.. but its hard to say.. you could always start with another 400 and see how that goes.. then move up to a 600... but.... at the same time... if you are going to do all that you might as well go with a 1000w lamp.. but thats a decent chunk of change and may push your electrical limits.. ill be able to tell when i figure out your electrical status...

here are some basics of electrical everyone (growers especially need to know)...

1) never run more than 75% of what your breaker can handle on that circuit.. for instance if you have a 20amp service dont run more than 15 amps per circuit.. will keep you well below the breaker popping point...

2) 1 amp = 120v.. it maybe 110vs.. but better to over estimate than under...

to figure out how many amps a given device is here is how you do it...

watts/volts = amps

so for instance a 1000w lamp / 120v = 8.3 amps... you can look at all your equipment... add up the total wattage for everything.. and divide it by 120 to see how much "space" you have left on a given circuit or power strip, ect..

bigger is always better... at least when dealing with power delivery.. by that i mean the larger the power cord, the higher the amps they can take, the better... electricity causes heat... if the wiring is to thin it can over heat, melt, catch on fire, cause a fire, ect... always use the thickest wiring you can....

justintym2 said:

very well put i am new and this is gonna help alot of people with some questions thnk you

Click to expand...

thank you and your welcome

showhard2handle said:

Sampson, so i grabbed some of that ona gel ya told me.

The directions are super descriptive, its something like:
"Expose more surface area until you reach desired effect" or some shit like that.

Could you translate that. Spread on some type of medium, like a plate perhaps?

Sorry if this is a dumb one, just wanna know how you use it.

preesh homey

Click to expand...

yea, basically the more ona that can touch the air the more odors it will absorb.. but you shouldnt have to worry about anything more than opening the can... that should be fine.. if you need more smell control then you can put a couple small bowls of it out around your place.. but you more than likely wont have to..

jdizzle22 said:

This picture was from the first day I put them in their nice tent with a 400w hortilux super hps. To keep a proper distance from the light I put my hand in and point it vertically, as long as I canfit the base of my hand and the tip of my middle finger between the tops and the glass then the light is not too close.

Anyway: How much water do you think I should use when i water them? For quite a while I've been going with a full gallon, then lately a little over a gallon (maybe like 4/3rds). I just don't have much concept for this sort of thing (seems to be enough). As long as the pots are not too big should I go back to soaking? Would it make much of a difference if I went up to 2 gallons each with a teaspoon of growbig?

They haven't yellowed any worse, and any yellowing seems to have improved a little. Tips that were dieing are dieing incredibly slow compared to when they first started having that problem (when I thought they had a fungus, when the bulb touched one for an hour).

Ok so I have this tent and it has 3 air flaps/windows around the bottom. Not light proof at all, although the base of my plants is higher than the tops of the windows. I am wondering if there is any real simple way to light proof the air intakes. Its extremely light proof all zipped up with flaps down etc, but I imagine there isn't enough air to draw from in that case. How much light is really too much during flowering? If I keep the curtains drawn and the light off (still a little bit of light will leak in, esp if monitor is on?) and keep the flaps most exposed to light closed (and one not) would that be fine? People seem to make a big deal out of zero light during 12 hours of dark for flowering. But like you told me once, there is moonlight in nature (does that moonlight affect the end product a lot?)

PS: I tried to add some more photos but it will only let me have 2?

Click to expand...

if they seem fine with the watering you are giving them then stick with it... they seem happy and healthy so they should be fine...

if you ever see the lower part of the plant start drooping while the top isnt then you'll know they arent getting enough water.. thats a sign of underwatering... at that time you should increase the amount of water you are giving them at each watering... if the entire plant start to look limp tho you have over watered and should back off.... but it sounds like everything is ok...

you may want to increase the amount of nutes you are feeding.. it sounds like they still have a nitrogen def... i would try 1.5x what you are using now and see if that helps.. (at least with the grow nute)... so if you are using 1 tsp per gallon go with 1.5....

alright.. now to the light/flowering question... first it is a misconception that it has to be completely 100% dark in the flowering room... that is ideal dont get me wrong.. photoperiod/light issues have the highest hermie causing capabilties vs. any other natural stressor (not including chemical use of course).. anyways.. the goal is to have the room as dark as possible... now with that being said a little bit of light wont make a difference... what i would try to do is close up 2 of the flaps completely and close one up about 50 to 75% of the way... enough that it remains almost closed.. but still will allow some air movement through it... that should take care of any potential issue that you would have...

moonlight isnt actual light.... moonlight is a reflection.. that is why it doesnt affect plants... same thing with street lamps and shit.. most plants are too far from viable light sources outside to be affected by them...

simpsonsampson420 said:

here is what i would need to know to really help you out.. all i need to know is how many amps the circuit you are using is and how many amps the power strips you are using are rated for...

as far as lighting goes i would actually say go with 1 x 600 over 2 x 400s... much better efficiency and 200ws less... plus better penetration power... theres a good possibility that you could run a 600w lamp without a reflector at all (maybe a batwing style one if anything) and just have the exhaust pulling the heat out and still remain within temp range... that would be ideal.. but its hard to say.. you could always start with another 400 and see how that goes.. then move up to a 600... but.... at the same time... if you are going to do all that you might as well go with a 1000w lamp.. but thats a decent chunk of change and may push your electrical limits.. ill be able to tell when i figure out your electrical status...

here are some basics of electrical everyone (growers especially need to know)...

1) never run more than 75% of what your breaker can handle on that circuit.. for instance if you have a 20amp service dont run more than 15 amps per circuit.. will keep you well below the breaker popping point...

2) 1 amp = 120v.. it maybe 110vs.. but better to over estimate than under...

to figure out how many amps a given device is here is how you do it...

watts/volts = amps

so for instance a 1000w lamp / 120v = 8.3 amps... you can look at all your equipment... add up the total wattage for everything.. and divide it by 120 to see how much "space" you have left on a given circuit or power strip, ect..

bigger is always better... at least when dealing with power delivery.. by that i mean the larger the power cord, the higher the amps they can take, the better... electricity causes heat... if the wiring is to thin it can over heat, melt, catch on fire, cause a fire, ect... always use the thickest wiring you can....



thank you and your welcome



yea, basically the more ona that can touch the air the more odors it will absorb.. but you shouldnt have to worry about anything more than opening the can... that should be fine.. if you need more smell control then you can put a couple small bowls of it out around your place.. but you more than likely wont have to..



if they seem fine with the watering you are giving them then stick with it... they seem happy and healthy so they should be fine...

if you ever see the lower part of the plant start drooping while the top isnt then you'll know they arent getting enough water.. thats a sign of underwatering... at that time you should increase the amount of water you are giving them at each watering... if the entire plant start to look limp tho you have over watered and should back off.... but it sounds like everything is ok...

you may want to increase the amount of nutes you are feeding.. it sounds like they still have a nitrogen def... i would try 1.5x what you are using now and see if that helps.. (at least with the grow nute)... so if you are using 1 tsp per gallon go with 1.5....

alright.. now to the light/flowering question... first it is a misconception that it has to be completely 100% dark in the flowering room... that is ideal dont get me wrong.. photoperiod/light issues have the highest hermie causing capabilties vs. any other natural stressor (not including chemical use of course).. anyways.. the goal is to have the room as dark as possible... now with that being said a little bit of light wont make a difference... what i would try to do is close up 2 of the flaps completely and close one up about 50 to 75% of the way... enough that it remains almost closed.. but still will allow some air movement through it... that should take care of any potential issue that you would have...

moonlight isnt actual light.... moonlight is a reflection.. that is why it doesnt affect plants... same thing with street lamps and shit.. most plants are too far from viable light sources outside to be affected by them...

Click to expand...

Beautiful electrical knowledge, I printed that jewel out & will keep handy for the future.

Right now, could you tell me the absolute maximum that a sprout could stay in a rapid rooter?

These are the photo period girls, several were much friskier than the others & have had taps stickin out the bottom since the day after they popped (bout 3 days ago).

With current set up I need to transfer them all from cubes in the prop tray, to rockwool cubes on the same day (occupying the same space, so they all gotta be ready to go).

Lemme know if I didn't explain this right.

THanks a bunch

Alright, think I figured out how to not ramble as much & make sure I actually get to my points w/ out wandering off. Gonna actually put my actual questions (instead of just rambling no sensicall irritance). So here goes, first how long & which nutes from the recicpe for success would you soak cubes before transplanting rooters into. (also PH too).

And ona gel is the most incredible shit i've seen. thanks again for the wisdom.

preesh my man

showhard2handle said:

Beautiful electrical knowledge, I printed that jewel out & will keep handy for the future.

Right now, could you tell me the absolute maximum that a sprout could stay in a rapid rooter?

These are the photo period girls, several were much friskier than the others & have had taps stickin out the bottom since the day after they popped (bout 3 days ago).

With current set up I need to transfer them all from cubes in the prop tray, to rockwool cubes on the same day (occupying the same space, so they all gotta be ready to go).

Lemme know if I didn't explain this right.

THanks a bunch

Click to expand...

you can let them go until they are almost completely covered in roots... just make sure they stay moist so the roots dont dry out!

jdizzle22 said:

if you ever see the lower part of the plant start drooping while the top isnt then you'll know they arent getting enough water.. thats a sign of underwatering... at that time you should increase the amount of water you are giving them at each watering...

Well crap! haha, I was wondering why they were doing that lately. I figured it was simply because they weren't getting as much light since they were farther away and were in the shade a little from those higher up. Guess every 4 days isn't enough? I may have to do some testing to see if its that or not enough water...

PS: Well they aren't that droopy below the first couple decent sized pairs. Not as bad as how much they were drooping back when we were trying to figure out why they were so droopy
PSS: So I just got done watering with 2 gallons of distilled + super thrive and pH adjusted. Took a pH reading using my 10$ ph soil stick meter thing and it says the soil of all my plants is 5.5!!! What should I do to raise it back up? Should I ph adjust their water to like 7 until the soil tests get back up around 6.5?
PSSS: Is it just me, or in the 45 minutes since I watered them have they started getting a little droopy? What would cause that? The littlest one looks fine but the leaves of the bigger 2 are not as stretched/leveled out *not sure if this is new, I have never paid much attention in the hours after watering

Click to expand...

to raise the ph just dont add any nutes for a watering or two... it sounds like you may have the onset of some slight lock out.. just water with ph adjusted water (6.5) and it should wash some salts out which will raise the ph back up...

showhard2handle said:

Alright, think I figured out how to not ramble as much & make sure I actually get to my points w/ out wandering off. Gonna actually put my actual questions (instead of just rambling no sensicall irritance). So here goes, first how long & which nutes from the recicpe for success would you soak cubes before transplanting rooters into. (also PH too).

And ona gel is the most incredible shit i've seen. thanks again for the wisdom.

preesh my man

Click to expand...

i would just soak with root 66 for about 30 minutes....

glad the ona is working out for you

Hey man trying to pick best moms.

One is gonna be a nirvana NL, just cause I've read that they're easy for newbs & cause just an old fav.

But the others I can't decide.

Got these spanish beans from a breeder called pyramid.

Got x1- Wembley & x1 Pipi
http://www.cannabis-seeds-bank.co.uk/pyramid-seeds-wembley/prod_707.html

http://www.cannabis-seeds-bank.co.uk/pyramid-seeds-pipi-feminized/prod_708.html



Can't decide on of them, or also Yum47 & NY47 from WOS legends. Saw u ran the Y47 on ur utube, woulda think?

Oh and the Dinafem widow bean I told ya bout the other day. You know my space constraints & lack of wisdom.

Everything not a mom will obv. get vegged for a few weeks & then into the v thang to sog.

Ur opinion be def. appreciated.

Thanks as always doc

But won't not giving them nutes for longer periods of time possibly lead to more problems than raising the pH via higher pH feeding fluid?

Sam, could you explain the proper use and care of PH/EC meters in general? I haven't really found much on the subject, mostly only the numbers needed. I am clueless on the exact meaning of the buffer solution, and replacement probes and such...

showhard2handle said:

Hey man trying to pick best moms.

One is gonna be a nirvana NL, just cause I've read that they're easy for newbs & cause just an old fav.

But the others I can't decide.

Got these spanish beans from a breeder called pyramid.

Got x1- Wembley & x1 Pipi
http://www.cannabis-seeds-bank.co.uk/pyramid-seeds-wembley/prod_707.html

http://www.cannabis-seeds-bank.co.uk/pyramid-seeds-pipi-feminized/prod_708.html



Can't decide on of them, or also Yum47 & NY47 from WOS legends. Saw u ran the Y47 on ur utube, woulda think?

Oh and the Dinafem widow bean I told ya bout the other day. You know my space constraints & lack of wisdom.

Everything not a mom will obv. get vegged for a few weeks & then into the v thang to sog.

Ur opinion be def. appreciated.

Thanks as always doc

Click to expand...

the yumbolt47 plants look amazing.. nice and full and big.. you cant go wrong with that or the ny47.. i like the looks of that wembley to... i suppose if i was to pick two i would go yum47 and wembley...

jdizzle22 said:

But won't not giving them nutes for longer periods of time possibly lead to more problems than raising the pH via higher pH feeding fluid?

Click to expand...

the fluid you feed with and water you use wont actually affect the soils ph... here is sorta how this works...

ph in soil is based on the salt content of the soil.... the more salts the more acidic it is....

we ph the water we use not so that the soil is affected by it but to ensure the plant can absorb the water/nutes.... if you water with water/nutes that are all out of range then the plant wont absorb the nutes correctly which leaves salts left in the soil...

in between feedings there are nutes in the soil that dont get used... between whats actually available to them at the time and whats still locked in the soil you may have quite a bit of unused nutes... and also nutes get used at different rates... the plant wont eat everything it has available to it... so again some things get left behind...

now comes the confusing part where it all works together...

you start off with ph'd water and feed... your plant uses "x" amount of nutes and "y" amount gets left behind... over time the "y" amount starts to build up and slowly begins to lower ph... as the ph begins to lower certain nutes begin to become harder to absorb... thus meaning more get left behind.. and again the ph lowers more... so theres that side of things...

in order to fix the ph (properly) you need to remove the salts and such from the soil... there are 2 ways of doing it.. 1, a good flush... basically run plain water over and over through the pot until the run off water is the same ec/ppm as it is when it goes in.. this will ensure your soil is clean and will raise the ph.. it wont happen over night.. will take a few days to stablize.. and is much easier on the plant as it has time to adjust.. but thats one way.... then you can start feeding again on an even level...

the other way is to use ph up/down (earth juice is best) to get ph within range... doing it this way has its ups and downs.. first thing it does is allows the nutes in the soil to try to be used up rather than flushed out... which is good since its not wasting them.. the down side to it all is that you cant be sure the nutes that are left will get used up (since you cant be sure whats actually locked away), you still have to wait for the plant to eat the nutes (which means light feeding a couple times again), and if you over correct then your playing the up/down correction game..

the thing to remember is ph swings can reek havoc on your root systems.. it wont destory them or anything.. but large ph swings can cause osmotic stress.. this will affect how your plant absorbs water and nutes... which can cause issues in and of itself for a couple days until the plant has time to adjust...

either way you choose is affective... but (even if it seems somewhat counter productive) it is best to flush and start over... just so you know that you have a clean slate to start from... it will only take 1 flush to get things back level.. so its quick and easy... just make sure your soil drains well before doing this to avoid root rot and shit...

in the future if you mix some dolomite lime in the soil it will help keep the soil well within range... DL has a stable ph of 7.0.... over time in soil it will raise the ph to 7.0... since you are feeding it salts and some get left behind it will help lower the 7.0 to around 6.5 or so.. about perfect... if it starts getting lower than that with lime youll know you are starting to get a lot of salt build up..

choempi said:

Sam, could you explain the proper use and care of PH/EC meters in general? I haven't really found much on the subject, mostly only the numbers needed. I am clueless on the exact meaning of the buffer solution, and replacement probes and such...

Click to expand...

well choempi i will do the best i can.... the problem is..... well i'll get there.. ill try to cover everything i can think of.. there are just a lot of options..

first lets start with the easy one.. ph.... ph meters are easy to take care of and maintain... the main thing is calibrating them on a regular basis (every couple weeks) and keeping the probe clean... the probe is the part that you actually stick in the solution to read it... if the probe is dirty it can cause varriances in the readings.. all you need to do to take care of it is to rinse it off well with water after use.. if you have the kind you can leave in your nute solution (mainly for hydroponic applications) the same rules apply.. except calibrating them is more important.. sitting in the solution can sometimes cause them to read off from what they should be... its best to make sure its always spot on (calibrate with res changes) to keep your plants happy...

you get what you pay for too... a cheap ph pen/meter will be just that... they are more likely to need recalibrating and are more likely to read inaccurately than a more expensive one.. i use a http://www.wormsway.com/detail.aspx?t=prod&sku=SPPM500&AC=1 for my res.. works great.. doesnt drift much.. and is all around a great meter... i like it too because the probe is seperate from the reader.. so if one goes out i just need to replace it and not the entire thing...

its important to check and make sure the meter you are using doesnt require the probe to stay moist... i guess i worded that badly.. some meters/pens require that probe to stay wet (not to dry out) between uses.. just make sure to check if the meter/pen you are getting is that way.. otherwise (if it even works) it will read wrong and probably wont be able to be calibrated properly...

also, as far as ph readers go, there are some that are used for solutions and some meant specifically to check soil ph.. make sure if you are getting one to check soil ph it is in fact a soil ph reader...

whatever you do try to stay away from the paper strips... they arent accurate at all... leave a lot of space open for "interpritation" since they dont display actual values.. and if you use nutes that arent 100% clear the colors from them can affect the reading...

when you go to check the ph of a solution here is the ideal way to do it... first mix your solution well... give it at least 10 minutes of good mixing before checking ph... once mixed well check and adjust ph as needed... allow the solution to sit for a few hours.... 3 to 5 is a good number... even over night would be good.. **if you have an air stone/pump is a good time to throw it in**.. after it sits a while check it one more time and adjust if needed again.. that should stablize the ph...

there are a lot of things that cause ph shifts... i am still learning a LOT about it.. but to make it easy, it takes a while for the ph to actual stablize... just because we add ph down and get 6.0 does not mean that 5 hours from now it will still be 6.0.. ideally it will be but unlikely at best...

now for the ec/ppm meters... first ill start out saying i highly highly highly highly highly highly highly reccomend sticking with a meter that reads EC vs. ppm.... or at least stick with the ec readings over the ppm readings...

here is why..

there are 3 ppm scales depending on who manufactures the meter.. but EC is constant.. only 1 scale for that.. and its much more accurate.. so i prefer to stick with ec so i dont have to worry about conversions and shit...

care is about the same.. make sure the probe is cleaned... ec/ppm readers dont typically dont need to have the probes stay moist.. so use, rinse, and store...

i pretty much follow the same basic guide line when checking ec as i do when i check ph.. after a good mixing ill check it to make sure its close to what i want.. and ill check it again later just to make sure.. they work by reading the conductivity of the ions in the solution.. since it takes a good amount of time for the chemical reactions to take place (also a reason why ph shifts) so the nute ions are combined with the water ions the initial reading can varry some from the final reading.. typically the final reading is a little higher than the first one.. but not so much it you will have to worry.. maybe .2ec increase.. if that....

i personally recommend http://www.wormsway.com/detail.aspx?t=prod&sku=TRU500&AC=1 they never need calibrating (i dropped mine in my reservoir and it sat in there for about 5 days before i realized it.. still works like a charm), have ec and 2 ppm readings plus another reading that i never look at... they are probably the best ec reader on the market..

now i know there are plenty of companies that make dual purpose readers.. ec/ph meter combos... DONT and i repeat DONT spend the money on them.. yes, it is convienent to be able to check everything with 1 meter.. normally if you can combined 2 products into 1 its a good deal.. and they are quite accurate.. the problem comes when one of the 2 readers decides to take a shit on you... you are stuck having to buy a whole new meter which sucks bad enough.. but while you are waiting on the new meter you cant check either ph or ec.... its best to have 2 seperate meters.. the blue lab truncheon i recommend for anyone.. the smart ph meter i recommend to anyone with hydro... http://www.wormsway.com/detail.aspx?t=prod&sku=TRU500&AC=1 this is a pretty good ph meter if you dont have hydro and just need to check ph of solutions once in a while...

i think that covers it for the most part.. if you have any other questions feel free to ask!

showhard2handle said:

dude, super sexy, wish ya lawdy lawdy i wish my girls were untainted & looked like that. Respek me brova!

Click to expand...

Thanks but I really should confess one important thing. I showed you the good ones! There was an equal number that I totally fucked up. I tried bringing them back to health for several weeks but wasn't really getting anywhere. So I bailed and tossed them. One positive thing to come from it though. I got to to see and learn what sick roots look like! And since I'm growing in soil I would have otherwise never had that opportunity. You stay up too bro!

simpsonsampson420 said:

looking good bro... veg'in girls are really happy looking... keep it up! and thanks

Click to expand...

Thank you!

Also I had a 1000w MH bulb blow up on me recently (before switching to HPS for flowering). I didn't return it because the shop treated me so well with that ballast swap and because it was probably my fault. I was running it on the boost setting with the glass on and the sides open but didn't have the vent fan hooked up because my room temps were ok. I also didn't know about the hot start no no. Now with the six inch in line fan hooked up I can actually leave my hand right on the glass it's so cool! Plus I'm really psyched that I can now contol the room temp and not suck out my supplimented CO2. Do you think this will prolong the life of my bulbes? Also someone told me you only suppliment CO2 in flower not veg that it's a waste of money. What do you think?

Yesterday around 3pm I got done watering them with pH adjusted distilled with Superthrive (no ferts). How should I flush?

Should I wait until they need to be watered again, and then water with unaltered/unadjusted distilled or tap water (I presume it would still be best to let it sit out a day or 2 prior) once a day every day until its down? Or should I just water with distilled/tap*aired out as often as I normally would until the pH is back up? * most flushing guides seem to be for flowering