DWC Reserva Privada Stacked Kush

Doesnt turbidity refer to the cloudiness of the solution? Im not exactly sure what you mean by increasing my turbidity.

Temps are 85 day 70 night
Humidity is 30-35 day 50-55 night
I dont have res temps atm cause I have been rotating 2 liter bottles frozen with water into the bucket to reduce temps

PH is always 5.8 and I tend to check every two days or any time I add water just to make sure

Ok mate no worries. It sounds to me like it is one of two problems. Not enough oxygen to the roots or too high/swinging res temps. Both of those problems will eventually turn into root slime and rot which will kill your plants. For slime and rot not to happen, your res needs to be around 72-74 degrees. Oxygenation is easy, drop the water level for a few days and slowly raise back up to 3/4 inch under the pot and maybe even add another air stone.

Sorry man, we're not tryin to stress you out, just trying to stop you from running into issues further down the track

iamjustthatguy said:

Doesnt turbidity refer to the cloudiness of the solution? Im not exactly sure what you mean by increasing my turbidity.

Temps are 85 day 70 night
Humidity is 30-35 day 50-55 night
I dont have res temps atm cause I have been rotating 2 liter bottles frozen with water into the bucket to reduce temps

Click to expand...

Yes you are correct, but in this case I was using the word to describe the need to add movement to your water surface for increased saturation...like turbulence. -SouP
tur·bid (tûr b d)adj.1. Having sediment or foreign particles stirred up or suspended; muddy: turbid water.
2. Heavy, dark, or dense, as smoke or fog.

3. In a state of turmoil; muddled: turbid feelings.


[HR][/HR][Latin turbidus, disordered, from turba, turmoil, probably from Greek turb .]
[HR][/HR]tur

bid·ly adv.
tur

bid·ness, tur·bid

i·ty n.

So more oxygen and regulate temps on bucket. Im just taking notes as much as I can

Checked temps after putting a frozen bottle in about 5 hours into night cycle and it was at 72 degrees. Im guessing during day time it is getting too warm, so I am gonna start putting two frozen water bottles in at the beginning of the day cycle and the beginning of the night cycle to try and regulate it a bit better

iamjustthatguy said:

So more oxygen and regulate temps on bucket. Im just taking notes as much as I can

Click to expand...

YES this and as you know, (which easty also in inadvertently mentioned twice) They are in a way the same thing! DO saturation is directly correlated with water temp as warmer temperature allow for far less. High res temp can also account for your plant looking under oxygenated. DWC res temps are said to be best kept under 70* and with or without fluctuation I recommend looking in to running some of heisenburgs tea to fight pathogens that our undoubtedly going to be circulating in your roots. You can also get away with running 2ml of bleach/per 10 gallon of res solution (Uncented just plain clorox) in the mean time. -S0uP

Something like this?
https://www.rollitup.org/dwc-bubbleponics/361430-dwc-root-slime-cure-aka.html

Yup!.......

Ill be making a gallon of it tomorrow and adding a cup to my bucket to get her looking healthy again. Heres to hoping my hydro store isnt sold out or its 1 and a half hours to the large one. First world problems!

Good work dude, they should pick up well after all this hope we've saved you some heartache in the long run

Is there a certain temperature below 70 that I should stop at? Cause im gonna try and lower it enough during night time, so that when the light is on full blast, the water doesnt get over 74 degrees.

Sorry mate, 70 is the lowest you should have and 74 the highest to avoid root rot. If its too cold, you'll stunt your plants.

Alright doing the water bottle thing before and after the day period gets my temps to 22 degrees celsius or about 71.6 degrees fahrenheit so I'm gonna stick with that for the time being. The temps may get a little high later in the day period so ill try and add them about 7-8 hours in instead of at the end of the 12 hours.

And the tea should be ready in about 10 hours according to that guide

Sweet mate, 21 is a good temp

Here are the latest pictures. I believe the overwatering problem is being corrected as damage to the leaves has stopped. Temps are far more regulated now and I have began applying Great White to help provide the beneficial bacteria. New growth is green and luscious, while the damaged leaves do not look any worst. Lemme know what you think and cheers!

looks to have recovered very nicely from the cal issue. looking forward to see how she finishes up for you. gl on the rest of the run.

The really bad looking leaves are at the very bottom and have looked that way for about a week. The pictures were taken 8 hours into the night cycle. She has been in flowering for about a week now

yeah, i wouldn't worry about it as much, because they're going to look like that from here on out. if anything, just try to keep up with the cal/mag and you should be good from here on out.