DIY with Quantum Boards

HydoDan

Well-Known Member
Does any of you run a remote driver setup? I was thinking about getting my drivers out of the tent, and run some 12 or 14g stranded wires (between 4-12 feet) from the DC side of the drivers to wagos and from there 18g solid to the QBs. Probably using a IEC connector with switch to be able to turn lights off when opening the tent, or an aviation plug. What do you think?

It would be interesing to see some driver panels. It seems most pictures and posts in threads do not deal with this, but mostly with the LEDs or lamp fixtures.
I run all my drivers remotely using 16g stranded wire... no problem..
 

CodenameDuchess

Active Member
Hey everyone. I’m back to say thanks again for all your help. I just finally finished two fixtures each with 8 clu0481212, and each with a qb304 or qb288. Couldn’t have done it without you guys. I’m running 6 drivers remotely, and have the drivers for qbs and cobs wired separately to lead into the tent. It was definitely worth the effort for my setup. It was 110 in California this summer so every bit counts. With that said, I’m much happier than my last run without remote drivers set up.

(Using 14 gauge wire solid core wire, wondering now after everyone’s replies if I should have gone stranded)
 
Hello, I'm new to growing and LED's entirely.

I ordered the 260w qb kit from HLG on 7/21 and am patiently waiting for it in the mail. My question is: is it possible the driver the kit comes with will be able to overpower the boards and risk blowing/frying them? I don't have an multimeter or potentiometer to use to measure the power output and don't have one of the wall plug watt meter things either. My grow space is 20" x 36" so it's not very large and I don't believe I need to max out the boards because it would.burn the plants. I just want make sure if the driver is set to 50% or 75% the full travel distance of the adjuster, it's not going to roast the boards. Thanks for the help.

Am
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Does any of you run a remote driver setup? I was thinking about getting my drivers out of the tent, and run some 12 or 14g stranded wires (between 4-12 feet) from the DC side of the drivers to wagos and from there 18g solid to the QBs. Probably using a IEC connector with switch to be able to turn lights off when opening the tent, or an aviation plug. What do you think?

It would be interesing to see some driver panels. It seems most pictures and posts in threads do not deal with this, but mostly with the LEDs or lamp fixtures.
I do remotes ....
These are mounted on a piece of shelving , I use quick release connectors on output ends to allow quick tear down and placement. This sits on top corner of tent and does NOT require cooling ..... They barely get warm as I don't drive them hard - with Quantums there is no need to ....... The interesting thing about building this way is that I can UPGRADE drivers anytime ... Mount on new driver on a new board with same quick plug and connect ....... Easy fucking Peazy .

image.jpeg
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Does any of you run a remote driver setup? I was thinking about getting my drivers out of the tent, and run some 12 or 14g stranded wires (between 4-12 feet) from the DC side of the drivers to wagos and from there 18g solid to the QBs. Probably using a IEC connector with switch to be able to turn lights off when opening the tent, or an aviation plug. What do you think?

It would be interesing to see some driver panels. It seems most pictures and posts in threads do not deal with this, but mostly with the LEDs or lamp fixtures.
As far as switchable lights - for plant maintenance, tent cleaning , bug spraying or whatever ... I do things very basic - I Do not interfere with timer or its circuit.
I use a small power strip that plugs to timer ..... Timer still running / power strip has switch on or off and drivers are plugged into that.

image.jpeg image.jpeg

This is as simple as it gets ... No multi connectors or wiring hassles.
From QBs , fab up a PONYTAIL ( sleeved ) of the red/blk ( and dimmer wires if using B drivers ) and use these connectors .... Also run a small ponytail with the male end and
thats it. I am working on a new panel but just been to busy lately. .

image.jpeg image.jpeg
 

nc208

Well-Known Member
As far as switchable lights - for plant maintenance, tent cleaning , bug spraying or whatever ... I do things very basic - I Do not interfere with timer or its circuit.
I use a small power strip that plugs to timer ..... Timer still running / power strip has switch on or off and drivers are plugged into that.

This is as simple as it gets ... No multi connectors or wiring hassles.
From QBs , fab up a PONYTAIL ( sleeved ) of the red/blk ( and dimmer wires if using B drivers ) and use these connectors .... Also run a small ponytail with the male end and
thats it. I am working on a new panel but just been to busy lately. .

View attachment 4015372
Are these the connectors you use? any limitations to gauge of wire they can accept?
https://www.amazon.com/HIGHROCK-Waterproof-Electrical-Connector-Marine/dp/B016NV1PVW
 

sallygram

Well-Known Member
These guys even copied parts of the HLG description for their QBs verbatim. What a bunch of scumbags.
When I was looking for for QBs I found this page and Photon Phantom guy (I also considered building them myself) the thing that sold me on HLG was his Growmau5 call in where he was describing his bins, I don't know much about all this stuff but really have only seem Growmau5 excited about HLG and the company he works for, so I can relax and know I got the best available at the time.

I also like that I can get on this board and ask Robin or Cobkits a dumb question and they will answer me.
 

smokeybeard

Well-Known Member
Hello, I'm new to growing and LED's entirely.

I ordered the 260w qb kit from HLG on 7/21 and am patiently waiting for it in the mail. My question is: is it possible the driver the kit comes with will be able to overpower the boards and risk blowing/frying them? I don't have an multimeter or potentiometer to use to measure the power output and don't have one of the wall plug watt meter things either. My grow space is 20" x 36" so it's not very large and I don't believe I need to max out the boards because it would.burn the plants. I just want make sure if the driver is set to 50% or 75% the full travel distance of the adjuster, it's not going to roast the boards. Thanks for the help.

Am
I have the 260 kit and the driver turned all the way up will not over drive the boards. The dimming on them is set at 50% if I remember right when turned to the lowest. I run mine in a 24"x48" tent and had it on full blast last round with no issues. Driver does get pretty warm if cranked up so a small fan will really help dissipate the heat off it.
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Are these the connectors you use? any limitations to gauge of wire they can accept?
https://www.amazon.com/HIGHROCK-Waterproof-Electrical-Connector-Marine/dp/B016NV1PVW
I just bought a couple of spools of 18 gauge wire from Fry's electronics and solder the connection with a heat shrink , THEN ran a sleeve over " pig tail " .
I don't remember the power rating of plug but it was good for 15 amp use.

The ones I use are still working fine and it been a year going ...

image.jpeg
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Does any of you run a remote driver setup? I was thinking about getting my drivers out of the tent, and run some 12 or 14g stranded wires (between 4-12 feet) from the DC side of the drivers to wagos and from there 18g solid to the QBs. Probably using a IEC connector with switch to be able to turn lights off when opening the tent, or an aviation plug. What do you think?

It would be interesing to see some driver panels. It seems most pictures and posts in threads do not deal with this, but mostly with the LEDs or lamp fixtures.
Between the current loss due to length of wire carrying DC current, the hassle of separate mounting and the fact that good drivers are 94% efficient or higher, it just isn't worthwhile in most situations.

Final nail in the coffin is that LED rooms generally like warmer temperatures anyway.

YMMV, but such has been my experience.
 

Philip-O

Well-Known Member
Between the current loss due to length of wire carrying DC current, the hassle of separate mounting and the fact that good drivers are 94% efficient or higher, it just isn't worthwhile in most situations.

Final nail in the coffin is that LED rooms generally like warmer temperatures anyway.

YMMV, but such has been my experience.
Thanks brother! Even if driven by LEDs, and very efficient drivers, I´m still putting a lot of energy into the tent, most of which should end up as heat (since plants only absorb a tiny fraction). It sure does get hot in there if I don´t ventilate and keep the door closed, and the HLG-240H-C2100 I use with 2 QBs can get quite hot even when dimmed to about 1.6A.

Is the electricity loss greater for DC than AC? I was thinking of running 14AWG duplex cable from the driver to a wago in the light fixture (the longest part of the DC cable run, up to 12 feet or so), and 18AWG from that same wago to the lights.
 

Black Thumb

Well-Known Member
Okay i finally got around to building these today.
FUCK THEY ARE SO BRIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!IMG_2058 (2) - Copy.JPG

Thats the best image i could show of how bright it is before the camera adjusts and makes it look like this picture below.
IMG_2061 - Copy.JPG

Okay Now I took a measurement at 18 inches away with a lux meter can someone help me convert this or show me how to find out the ppfd from this measurement.
IMG_2064 - Copy.JPG
That reads 344 LUX
x100
200,000
Thats the measurement from center to every corner the same all the way across just sitting on the table and me holding with a measuring stick 18 inches above.

Now some pics of the build IMG_2056 - Copy.JPG IMG_2057 - Copy.JPG

Now Some pics of the Wattage and Amperage from a killowatt meter
IMG_2065 - Copy.JPG
IMG_2066 - Copy.JPG

Im a little confused about the amps 2.68 amps does that mean those 9 boards are only pulling about 297 MA each ? im figuring im about 35 watts per board.

I have some more dirvers to mix the boards up later but for now this is my tester.

It was fun and i learned some things for next build along the way.
 

Isawthelight

Well-Known Member
Okay i finally got around to building these today.
FUCK THEY ARE SO BRIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!View attachment 4015520

Thats the best image i could show of how bright it is before the camera adjusts and makes it look like this picture below.
View attachment 4015523

Okay Now I took a measurement at 18 inches away with a lux meter can someone help me convert this or show me how to find out the ppfd from this measurement.
View attachment 4015524
That reads 344 LUX
x100
200,000
Thats the measurement from center to every corner the same all the way across just sitting on the table and me holding with a measuring stick 18 inches above.

Now some pics of the build View attachment 4015525 View attachment 4015526

Now Some pics of the Wattage and Amperage from a killowatt meter
View attachment 4015527
View attachment 4015528

Im a little confused about the amps 2.68 amps does that mean those 9 boards are only pulling about 297 MA each ? im figuring im about 35 watts per board.

I have some more dirvers to mix the boards up later but for now this is my tester.

It was fun and i learned some things for next build along the way.
You're looking at AC amps. DC amps is what is running thru your QB panels. Lets do some math
Power (watts) input = Power output = 319 Watts
Power = Voltage x Current
Power / Voltage = Current = 319 Watts / 54 Volts DC = 5.9 Amps being delivered to 9 QB panels..... so 5.9 Amps / 9 QB panels = 565 mAmps flow thru each QB panel.
 

Black Thumb

Well-Known Member
@Isawthelight, Thanks i forgot all about the ac dc thing that makes more sense i had figured i would get 655ma per board 5.9 / 9 = 655 i must be doing some math wrong somewhere.


Been looking at conversion charts to try and find the ppfd.
If my lux was 34,400 is this the right formula LUX reading/1000 * 15 = PPFD

Which would be about 519 ppfd. Cant wait to get this thing in a tent and take some controlled measurements.

Since im running these things so soft any guesses on how close i can get to the canopy without burning them :)

Let them run for about an hour and i could put my hands right on the boards / chips and hold it there not hot at all. They are about luke warm about as warm as someones forehead when they are running a fever.
 
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ttystikk

Well-Known Member
You're looking at AC amps. DC amps is what is running thru your QB panels. Lets do some math
Power (watts) input = Power output = 319 Watts
Power = Voltage x Current
Power / Voltage = Current = 319 Watts / 54 Volts DC = 5.9 Amps being delivered to 9 QB panels..... so 5.9 Amps / 9 QB panels = 565 mAmps flow thru each QB panel.
One minor quibble with the math; the driver doesn't operate at perfect efficiency, so multiply your output by .96, or whatever efficiency driver operates at. Thus, the boards are seeing about 550mA.
 
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ttystikk

Well-Known Member
@Isawthelight, Thanks i forgot all about the ac dc thing that makes more sense i had figured i would get 655ma per board 5.9 / 9 = 655 i must be doing some math wrong somewhere.


Been looking at conversion charts to try and find the ppfd.
If my lux was 34,400 is this the right formula LUX reading/1000 * 15 = PPFD

Which would be about 519 ppfd. Cant wait to get this thing in a tent and take some controlled measurements.

Since im running these things so soft any guesses on how close i can get to the canopy without burning them :))
I'm looking forward to the all important 'grow test'.

Since you're in a tent with reflective sides, I would mount them 24" above the plants and not worry about it. You could mount them lower but it's not necessary, you're not losing a lot of light.

If you want to get close, use the back of your hand as a gauge. The distance where your hand starts getting hot is too close.
 

Black Thumb

Well-Known Member
I'm looking forward to the all important 'grow test'.

Since you're in a tent with reflective sides, I would mount them 24" above the plants and not worry about it. You could mount them lower but it's not necessary, you're not losing a lot of light.

If you want to get close, use the back of your hand as a gauge. The distance where your hand starts getting hot is too close.
Thanks for clearing that up i edited my post since your reply, Like i said an hour now i can hold my hands directly on the chips and they are no warmer than someones forehead who is running a fever.

I will be playing around with this and different heights see what the girls say.
 
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