Positivity
Well-Known Member
That's a cool way of linking the meanwells together..nice
DiY LEDs - How to Power Them
- Thread starter SupraSPL
- Start date
zangtumtum
Well-Known Member
another question:
which type of dimmer can I use for dimming both drivers Cincon-LDP25A360-P070BR simultanouesly that use PWM dimming/1-10V/ Potentiometer, ?
i think I can use a pot like Meanwell LPF(100kPotX1driver), but 100k or 200k for one pot connect with 2 drivers?
I have Alps RK09L1220A1B Dual-unit with Total resistance 100kΩ...but i don't know...
which type of dimmer can I use for dimming both drivers Cincon-LDP25A360-P070BR simultanouesly that use PWM dimming/1-10V/ Potentiometer, ?
i think I can use a pot like Meanwell LPF(100kPotX1driver), but 100k or 200k for one pot connect with 2 drivers?
I have Alps RK09L1220A1B Dual-unit with Total resistance 100kΩ...but i don't know...
Last edited:
Fiveleafsleft
Well-Known Member
Hello, and thank's Supra for a very informative thread!
Seem's like a lot knowledgable people have gathered here, maybe someone can help me out if i'm lucky.. (I have close to zero electrical skills)
I'm about to build a highly efficient led setup for my 5 square-feet grow cabinet. So far i've bought: 8 4000k CXA2530-0000-000N00U20E5 140 l/w at 800 mA. So there will 8 small, actively cooled lights. My plan is to drive them at 350 mA in order to make them even more efficient. Would also like to ad a few recently high binned XP-E And XP-T 630nm and 450nm in order to tweak spectrum towards early and late bloom. 4 lights for each stage.
At 350 mA the voltage from the cob will be ≈34 and to that i will ad 4 630nm ≈ 8V @ 350mA? or two 630 and one 450nm. So if i I'm counting right 41-42V for each light.
The drivers Cree recommends is the Mean-Well PCD-16-350A would probably work just fine? But after reading this thread I'm starting to think about finding a suitable dimmable driver that would let me up the current a bit if needed..
Would it work to hook to lights in parallel to this driver? http://ac-rc.net/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23_35&products_id=67 It's rated for 300-1050 mA. Would this mean that the dimming went down to 150-525 mA if that's the case it would be so awesome!
If someone could help me with this I would be so grateful! If it doesn't work wiuld i of course appreciate other suggestions!
Seem's like a lot knowledgable people have gathered here, maybe someone can help me out if i'm lucky.. (I have close to zero electrical skills)
I'm about to build a highly efficient led setup for my 5 square-feet grow cabinet. So far i've bought: 8 4000k CXA2530-0000-000N00U20E5 140 l/w at 800 mA. So there will 8 small, actively cooled lights. My plan is to drive them at 350 mA in order to make them even more efficient. Would also like to ad a few recently high binned XP-E And XP-T 630nm and 450nm in order to tweak spectrum towards early and late bloom. 4 lights for each stage.
At 350 mA the voltage from the cob will be ≈34 and to that i will ad 4 630nm ≈ 8V @ 350mA? or two 630 and one 450nm. So if i I'm counting right 41-42V for each light.
The drivers Cree recommends is the Mean-Well PCD-16-350A would probably work just fine? But after reading this thread I'm starting to think about finding a suitable dimmable driver that would let me up the current a bit if needed..
Would it work to hook to lights in parallel to this driver? http://ac-rc.net/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23_35&products_id=67 It's rated for 300-1050 mA. Would this mean that the dimming went down to 150-525 mA if that's the case it would be so awesome!
If someone could help me with this I would be so grateful! If it doesn't work wiuld i of course appreciate other suggestions!
Scotch089
Well-Known Member
From what I understand (asked SDS) we need whatever the max ohm rating is and a DUAL potentiometer. So my drivers are the HLG-185-C700A's with 10-100k resistance and I need 100k/2, or a 100k ohm dual potentiometer, I got a ten pack on eBay for cheap, just had to order knobs too
Positivity
Well-Known Member
Nice scotch...think your really gonna like that dimming function. Especially with these crazy bright cxas!
Zangtumtum>> if it's PWM dimmable than I think you need a seperate 10v source and a 10k potentiometer. If it's anything like my PWM lights you can hook up two drivers in parallel to pot and dim both off of one.
PWM does seem to be a lot easier to dim smoothly. The resistor setup is nice and easy but the power drops off really fast...not nearly as linearly. But it still does work well alongside a kill a watt
Zangtumtum>> if it's PWM dimmable than I think you need a seperate 10v source and a 10k potentiometer. If it's anything like my PWM lights you can hook up two drivers in parallel to pot and dim both off of one.
PWM does seem to be a lot easier to dim smoothly. The resistor setup is nice and easy but the power drops off really fast...not nearly as linearly. But it still does work well alongside a kill a watt
Positivity
Well-Known Member
Didn't sds say you could divide the resistance if wanting to hook up two drivers to one dimmer using a resistor...so instead of a 100k you'd use a 50k?
I'm sure the dual pot way will work..interesting..let us know how it works!
Scotch089
Well-Known Member
"one driver ...
To control ( dim ) more drivers with one swingle pot ,
then the pot res value has to be 100K / N (number of drivers )
Cheers ."
Yea I'm stoked about dimming without diminishing the lifespan, and as I adjust the current I adjust the ratio/spectrum. @500mA I'll have stronger blue than at 350 or 700 (at less more % in the xmls and equal/less in the 3070s/ex6s)
To control ( dim ) more drivers with one swingle pot ,
then the pot res value has to be 100K / N (number of drivers )
Cheers ."
Yea I'm stoked about dimming without diminishing the lifespan, and as I adjust the current I adjust the ratio/spectrum. @500mA I'll have stronger blue than at 350 or 700 (at less more % in the xmls and equal/less in the 3070s/ex6s)
Scotch089
Well-Known Member
That may be true pos- I asked him if I'd need 200k/2 since I wanted do both and he kept it at 100k in his reply- so maybe that's the explanation to his answer! Thank you for clearing that up for me. Maybe halving the resistance of each driver than totaling it out? Hopefully he's reading my jumble jargon and he can lend some insight.
Fiveleafsleft
Well-Known Member
Scotch, Just read your thread CXA3070s@350mA orientation, And realize that we are basically doing the same thing, except that i chose to go with cheaper "old-tech" 2530's to save some money. Wont write more about it here. But wonder if you looked at the drivers i asked about in my last post. http://ac-rc.net/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23_35&products_id=67 Think that they could be suitable for your setup as well. If it's possible to connect two cobs in parallel to each driver, it would also be pretty cheap. Maybe you are looking for higher efficiency than 87%?
I know that this is my second post and that it might seem a bit "needy" to start with asking for expert advice. Sorry for that.
I know that this is my second post and that it might seem a bit "needy" to start with asking for expert advice. Sorry for that.
zangtumtum
Well-Known Member
thank Positivity and thank Scotch089 for the answer...
i'm waiting the holder for 3070 and then i can test two type of pot 100k one single ad one duble,
fot the PWM config, I have in my lamp a little Recom RACD03-350 for fan power: 3 V to 12 V @350ma-3W,
do you think can I use this for PWM?
i'm waiting the holder for 3070 and then i can test two type of pot 100k one single ad one duble,
fot the PWM config, I have in my lamp a little Recom RACD03-350 for fan power: 3 V to 12 V @350ma-3W,
do you think can I use this for PWM?
epicfail
Well-Known Member
So I read on here that when people are sanding their led stars that dislodging the led from the star was a possibility.
I started to wet sand and within minutes I saw how tedious this was going to be. So being me, a guy who likes to use his brain more than his body thought of a solution for better grip and not having the possibility of dislodgement.
I milled a custom holder out of 1/2 acrylic block (ya I know not everyone can do this). Works like a charm, I put a little piece of some low tack double sided tape to make sure it sticks in the block while wet sanding. It sure speeds things up.
here it is....
I started to wet sand and within minutes I saw how tedious this was going to be. So being me, a guy who likes to use his brain more than his body thought of a solution for better grip and not having the possibility of dislodgement.
I milled a custom holder out of 1/2 acrylic block (ya I know not everyone can do this). Works like a charm, I put a little piece of some low tack double sided tape to make sure it sticks in the block while wet sanding. It sure speeds things up.
here it is....
only1realhigh
Well-Known Member
I mounted 130 stars and never sanded one of them, but I did use the thermal paste which would make up for any slight unevenness in them, I am sure.
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
Ya I mounted a ton of them before I discovered how bad the stars were. I actually rebuilt most of the modules, I must not have had anything better to do at the time. If you use a really good thermal paste the large gap won't matter as much, but the unevenness is very significant on every star. I think it happens when they stamp them
only1realhigh
Well-Known Member
I do see your point Supra, and I would have to say it might make a slight difference. Not sure if it would be worth the effort, but who am I to say it.
DarthBlazeAnthony
Well-Known Member
Is there a comprehensive COB Led build tutorial available either in document or video format? The forum is awesome everyone. Just hoping to string all this great information together. Thank you.
DarthBlazeAnthony
Well-Known Member
One item I ordered from China arrived in 7 days...The last one was 40 days!
noob ? whould this driver power 6 vero 18 at .7 ma safely
mean weall AC to DC Switching LED Enclosed Power Supply Single Output with PFC Function 107~215 Volts 0.7 Amps 151 Watts http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2189249_-1
Specification Value
FamilyHLG-120H
Output Connector TypeStripped and Tinned
Number of Outputs1
Product TypeAC to DC Power Supply
MFR Product FamilyHLG-120H
Efficiency (%)94
Minimum Isolation Voltage3750V
Operating Temperature-Min (Cel)-40
Primary Output Voltage (VDC)107
Operating Temperature-Max (Cel)70
Specification Value
Height (inch)1.5
Agency ApprovalsCUL/TUV/CE
ColorSilver
TypeAuto Switching
StyleEnclosed
Additional Output Voltages (VDC)108 to 215
Output Current (A)0.7
Maximum Output Power (W)151
Input Voltage (VAC)90 to 305
Input Frequency47 to 63
Maximum Input Current (A)1.6
mean weall AC to DC Switching LED Enclosed Power Supply Single Output with PFC Function 107~215 Volts 0.7 Amps 151 Watts http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2189249_-1
Specification Value
FamilyHLG-120H
Output Connector TypeStripped and Tinned
Number of Outputs1
Product TypeAC to DC Power Supply
MFR Product FamilyHLG-120H
Efficiency (%)94
Minimum Isolation Voltage3750V
Operating Temperature-Min (Cel)-40
Primary Output Voltage (VDC)107
Operating Temperature-Max (Cel)70
Specification Value
Height (inch)1.5
Agency ApprovalsCUL/TUV/CE
ColorSilver
TypeAuto Switching
StyleEnclosed
Additional Output Voltages (VDC)108 to 215
Output Current (A)0.7
Maximum Output Power (W)151
Input Voltage (VAC)90 to 305
Input Frequency47 to 63
Maximum Input Current (A)1.6