DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

Hi everyone, after reading through a lot of this thread, I couldn't really find the answer to my question so I hope I didn't miss the post if its already been discussed. I have a few cheaper cobs that are rated for 28-35V, and suggested to run between 350-700 mA. My question is this, would I be able to run 4 of them on an LPC-60-1400, if I run them in parallel? I know that you're not supposed to run cobs in parallel but these are going to be cheaper supplemental lights, so I'm not as concerned about them. I have one of the LPCs handy, but I'm unsure due to it having a variable output voltage (9~42V I believe). I'm not sure what voltage they would be driven at but the 4@350mA would make 1.4A. The next one up is the 1750 version which has a voltage range of 9~34V which would be under the cob's 35V max, and I would likely end up running 5 cobs on that. I'd rather not have to add in 140 more volts to the mix if I don't have to, that's why I'm wanting to run them in parallel.
 

alesh

Well-Known Member
Hi everyone, after reading through a lot of this thread, I couldn't really find the answer to my question so I hope I didn't miss the post if its already been discussed. I have a few cheaper cobs that are rated for 28-35V, and suggested to run between 350-700 mA. My question is this, would I be able to run 4 of them on an LPC-60-1400, if I run them in parallel? I know that you're not supposed to run cobs in parallel but these are going to be cheaper supplemental lights, so I'm not as concerned about them. I have one of the LPCs handy, but I'm unsure due to it having a variable output voltage (9~42V I believe). I'm not sure what voltage they would be driven at but the 4@350mA would make 1.4A. The next one up is the 1750 version which has a voltage range of 9~34V which would be under the cob's 35V max, and I would likely end up running 5 cobs on that. I'd rather not have to add in 140 more volts to the mix if I don't have to, that's why I'm wanting to run them in parallel.
Yes you could use LPC-60-1400. Depending on Vf variation from COB to COB, there might be some issues.
 

brettsog

Well-Known Member
Quick question, I have a MW hlg 185 c1400b. I have a 100k linear pot, and a 10k resistor. Now I understand that I can go right down to 10% with this dimming function. Is there any way I can limit the dimming to only 50% so if I do a full turn on the pot that it only dims to 50% as I don't really wanna go lower than that and I don't have a killawatt meter to check it with.

I'm kinda hoping it's something as easy as buying a 50k resistor. Any help would be appreciated
 

alesh

Well-Known Member
Quick question, I have a MW hlg 185 c1400b. I have a 100k linear pot, and a 10k resistor. Now I understand that I can go right down to 10% with this dimming function. Is there any way I can limit the dimming to only 50% so if I do a full turn on the pot that it only dims to 50% as I don't really wanna go lower than that and I don't have a killawatt meter to check it with.

I'm kinda hoping it's something as easy as buying a 50k resistor. Any help would be appreciated
50K resistor + 50K pot in series.
 

brettsog

Well-Known Member
And just to clarify I can put the wires wherever I want on the pot can't I as long as they are next to each other right?
 

robincnn

Well-Known Member
Hello Everyone, i was wondering if this can be incorporated into a build for display of power/adjust dimmers to exact watts
http://www.amazon.com/80-260V-BAYITE-PZEM-021-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B00YY1KU0G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1449547191&sr=8-4&keywords=digital+watt+meter
I have used these with single COB and they are pretty accurate. This is to measure the DC side of power going into COB
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131577787046?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
note: This may not work for HLG drivers as it is rated upto only 100Volts

What you suggested was for AC side. It should work. however i prefer this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/360714416457?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
This can also tell AC power going into drivers. voltage/current kwh too


Hi everyone, after reading through a lot of this thread, I couldn't really find the answer to my question so I hope I didn't miss the post if its already been discussed. I have a few cheaper cobs that are rated for 28-35V, and suggested to run between 350-700 mA. My question is this, would I be able to run 4 of them on an LPC-60-1400, if I run them in parallel? I know that you're not supposed to run cobs in parallel but these are going to be cheaper supplemental lights, so I'm not as concerned about them. I have one of the LPCs handy, but I'm unsure due to it having a variable output voltage (9~42V I believe). I'm not sure what voltage they would be driven at but the 4@350mA would make 1.4A. The next one up is the 1750 version which has a voltage range of 9~34V which would be under the cob's 35V max, and I would likely end up running 5 cobs on that. I'd rather not have to add in 140 more volts to the mix if I don't have to, that's why I'm wanting to run them in parallel.
when the cob spec is 28-35V, 350-700 mA. It means it willneed around 35V at max current of 700. If you under drive to 350ma then voltage around 28.
LPC-60-1400 can power 4 in parallel. But it will be good to test that all cobs are getting close to 1400/4 ma current.
LPC-60-1750 should work too for 4 in parallel. 1750/4 is quite less than 700ma so Vf will be lower than 35


And just to clarify I can put the wires wherever I want on the pot can't I as long as they are next to each other right?
Correct. See here
https://www.rollitup.org/t/meanwell-led-drivers-3-in-1-dimming-function.838760/#post-10725098
 
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nedelo

Well-Known Member
Hi guys , can cree cobs cxa s work in parallel circuit , i ask because i got one meanweel driver HLG-120H-36A , ????? please help
 

vahpor

Well-Known Member
Hi guys , can cree cobs cxa s work in parallel circuit , i ask because i got one meanweel driver HLG-120H-36A , ????? please help
By looking at data sheets for the driver it looks like 36v is its max (Update: I just noticed this has adjustable voltage up to 40v. Maybe it could work fine at higher amperage as well, I don't have first hand experience/knowledge w/ the A models and dual pots.) A single CXA3070 is rated at 38.5-42vf @ 1900mA, depending on chip heat. So, maybe at lower amperage,1400mAish, it'd fall within the 36v window, or you may have to run a dimmer to get it to function at a lower output amperage, or run at least 3 chips to run them at 1130mA each. The -42 driver looks like a better fit for the cxA series.
 
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wietefras

Well-Known Member
I wanted to program an Arduino to dim the leds along a curve. Few bucks in parts and you can do the same as those expensive smart timers.

I have a datalogger monitoring the grow and I noticed the plants evaporate more in the middle of the "day" and less at the start and end of the day. So I assume they could use more light in the middle of the day and then give them less at the start and end to come out at the same overall power use. Just used more efficiently by the plants.

I actually have a DIY IR leaf temperature sensor connected as well, so the lights could easily be dimmed based on that as well. Or rather the VPD calculated from the leaf temperature, room temp and humidity.
 

Stealthstyle

Well-Known Member
Anywhere i can find the highest milliamps i can run cree 3070's (3500k) i haven fund on sites selling them the curve that i want.id like to push them a little harder than 1400milliamps
 

alesh

Well-Known Member
I'd like to have power line and signal line combined into one cable and one set of connectors. Been googling a lot and not come up with a solution I'd like. The best so far is three phase cable and connector where I'd use 3 wires for power and 2 wires for signals. Isn't there a better solution (ie similar to IEC 60320 C13/C14)?
 

salmonetin

Well-Known Member
I wanted to program an Arduino to dim the leds along a curve. Few bucks in parts and you can do the same as those expensive smart timers.

I have a datalogger monitoring the grow and I noticed the plants evaporate more in the middle of the "day" and less at the start and end of the day. So I assume they could use more light in the middle of the day and then give them less at the start and end to come out at the same overall power use. Just used more efficiently by the plants.

I actually have a DIY IR leaf temperature sensor connected as well, so the lights could easily be dimmed based on that as well. Or rather the VPD calculated from the leaf temperature, room temp and humidity.
...any pics of dattalogger monitor?...or the diy ir leaf temp sensor?....or share more info... ...please...

pd...Thanks Guod....:hug:....

:peace:

Saludos
 
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