DIY led grow

Positivity

Positivity

Well-Known Member
Thanks again everyone one for being cool and supporting my led adventures

My disclaimer..i'm not selling anything or trying to suggest the way i do things are the right way, colors, etc. I may make lights for friends locally but that is the extent of this hobby for me for now. I also hold nothing against companies and people profiting off of canna. Only those that are disrespectful and dishonest. This is just where growing has led me and i'm sharing things i'm sure others have wondered about themself.

So with that said...:mrgreen:.

My main light is down for renovation, so i decided to up my wattage a little bit in my new small cab. It could maintain about 90* f in a small enclosed area with no circulation at 150w. But i want to run at about 200w, see what these 3590s can do when pushing more wattage than usual. About 80w per COB at 2700k.

Had to add a fan and filter to make that happen. Plus, i dry herb in here and it was stinking up the house, no bueno. So, two birds with one stone. Chose a panasonic whisperline about 120cfm..i think...something low. Anyways, its pretty freaking quiet, I'm happy with it.

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So now, in a 3 x 2 tent i can maintain decent growing temps even up to 150w per cob, while only exhausting with a low cfm fan. Not too bad, albeit the room gets 85-90f. The Tc of the COBS at the full 1.8a bounces between 49*C to 55*C. Just missing the thermal cutoff at 60c. Good in a way theres a tight tolerance, but 70*C might have been better for a hard running COB.

CXA 3590 2700k at 1.8a. 150w per. Tc steady at max 55*c

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Blue dream
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Sour d

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#peaceout#my2c#:joint:
 
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tightpockt

tightpockt

Well-Known Member
I've been using a whisperline for years...quiet but that thing is so big, bulky and heavy! The six inch at least...
That light is siiiiiick...I'm too high to go through the thread and check, lol, did you build the housing yourself with aluminium sheet and L brackets?
 
Doer

Doer

Well-Known Member
Looks like you are growing ganja, to me. Good job, Pos.

Don't you think it is kinda funny though? Those dudes drew down on me for even thinking about running them so "dirty." But, you said, "Nah, you'll be OK."

And you are driving them at 1.8a, you dirty boy! :)
 
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Positivity

Positivity

Well-Known Member
not even gonna approach why threads have been going bad..its obvious to most. Definitely don't find it funny.

But yes, driving them at their max rating. They actually work okay there. At 100 lumens per watt..way off an efficient build.

I'm not going to get into cooling them or drivers and such either. If your thinking of running a cob this hard you should be able to find the parts and know how to cool it. If any of the veterans that shared their well built rigs want to know the parts feel free to pm me. Its nothing magical, i just don't want to be responsible for someone setting this up and not taking every precaution.

Have a good day and relax everyone. Its just a grow light, start with something easy and enjoy the cobs you have

:peace:
 
Positivity

Positivity

Well-Known Member
tightpockt said:
I've been using a whisperline for years...quiet but that thing is so big, bulky and heavy! The six inch at least...
That light is siiiiiick...I'm too high to go through the thread and check, lol, did you build the housing yourself with aluminium sheet and L brackets?
Click to expand...
Thanks tp. I don't mind the size as it seems to act as a muffler compared to a standard inline. The flat bottom is actually really nice to just set down.

The housing is a bud industries aluminum enclosure. You can search bud industries for different styles and sizes. Amazon has them for sale with free shipping in lots of different sizes. It comes as a plain square box which i modify for what i need. I recommend anyone building a light for the first time to consider a housing. All it takes to modify it is a drill, hole saw, files for deburring, and a nibbler for cutting small openings. You can do it as simple or as complicated as you like.
 
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CellarDweller

Well-Known Member
@Positivity you sir have created possibly the only example of a purist positive vibe thread I've had the pleasure of reading on this forum. Congratulations. I reckon it's because the detailed facts are light and your infectious tinkering is simple and almost "naive" in its approach, though of course I am sure it isn't! (by the way, that is certainly not meant as criticism @stardustsailor or @SupraSPL ....your work is invaluable).

now before I go to far and get awarded some kind of noob brown-nose award, I am just about to kick off the build of my modular light that with luck will be half as successful as yours, but with total flexibility built in (will share designs once finalised).

So the question is - when trying to dim a CXA3070on a 1400mA meanwell driver, what set up would YOU use. My father-in-law is a German handyman par excellence and can help me create a box of beauty, but the only remaining issue is light dimming and I just can't seem to wrap my head around it. I want to do it on an individual basis (i.e. per COB/Driver). Looking for direct advice on product/approach......or is that another way of saying, "Please sir can you tell me what to do?" ;)

Peace out and Happy Easter Holidays :)
 
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CellarDweller

Well-Known Member
Let me just caveat that by saying I just realised the drivers (LPC-60-1400) are non-dimmable.......so I believe I just answered my question. Would still love an answer if I had dimmable drivers.

(currently face-planting my desk at my error).
 
blowincherrypie

blowincherrypie

Well-Known Member
Positivity said:
Thanks tp. I don't mind the size as it seems to act as a muffler compared to a standard inline. The flat bottom is actually really nice to just set down.

The housing is a bud industries aluminum enclosure. You can search bud industries for different styles and sizes. Amazon has them for sale with free shipping in lots of different sizes. It comes as a plain square box which i modify for what i need. I recommend anyone building a light for the first time to consider a housing. All it takes to modify it is a drill, hole saw, files for deburring, and a nibbler for cutting small openings. You can do it as simple or as complicated as you like.
Click to expand...
I like your work.. No doubt you could make some nice coin sellin custom boxes.. You have a gift for sure player!
 
Positivity

Positivity

Well-Known Member
CellarDweller said:


So the question is - when trying to dim a CXA3070on a 1400mA meanwell driver, what set up would YOU use. My father-in-law is a German handyman par excellence and can help me create a box of beauty, but the only remaining issue is light dimming and I just can't seem to wrap my head around it. I want to do it on an individual basis (i.e. per COB/Driver). Looking for direct advice on product/approach......or is that another way of saying, "Please sir can you tell me what to do?" ;)

Peace out and Happy Easter Holidays :)
Click to expand...


Meanwell LCM-60DA
My new favorite. Haven't tested it yet but its what i've been looking for. The pricing is a little messed up though, expensive. I like the fact it has a 12v fan output and a input for a thermal attachment. Cleans up the install with less seperate components. Hopefully we'll see more options like this in the future. Also can set dimming up multiple ways including a internal way, i like the flexibility. Worth it for a nice build i think.

Cut paste of features..

In response to the demands of intelligent LED lighting control and to provide a flexible power solution for project style lighting design, MEAN WELL introduced 40W/60W multiple-stage output current LED power supply~ LCM-40(DA) and LCM-60(DA) series. With “constant current output” design, the output current level can be flexibly selected by the built-in DIP switch. The basic models, LCM-40 and LCM-60, are designed with “2-in-1” dimming function (0~10Vdc and PWM signal), while the digital control models, LCM-40DA and LCM-60DA, are built-in DALI interface and push dimming function. These launched units can fulfill the increasing demands of intelligent digital dimming applications. Featuring with 180~295 VAC and built-in two stage PFC function, these new series comply with harmonic current limitation per EN61000-3-2 Class C (>35% load) and also fulfill PF>0.9 if loading over 35%. In addition, they possess 2KV surge immunity ability (EN61000-4-5, heavy industry level) between Line and Neutral, which complies with the related lighting requirements. With up-to date high performance circuit topology, LCM-40(DA)/60(DA) possess up to 91.5% of high efficiency, so they can be cooled by free air convection from -30℃ to +60℃ ambient temperature. Built-in temperature compensation function, by connecting an external temperature sensor (NTC resistor) between the NTC+/- terminals, the output current could be correspondingly changed with the detected temperature to ensure the long lifetime of LEDs. In addition, they equip with synchronization dimming function that can operate 10 drivers (max.) synchronously in response to the dimming control signal of LED lighting systems with multiple lighting fixtures. LCM-40(DA)/60(DA) are rectangular and low profile (23mm) plastic enclosed power supplies. Different from the general design with input in front and output in rear, the I/O connection of these new models are changed to the same side, which allows system designer a more convenient wiring installation. Other standard functions include Class II design (no F.G.), built-in 12V/ 50mA auxiliary output (for driving fan), protections for short circuit, over voltage, and over temperature. All of them comply with certificates per UL8750, ENEC EN61347-2-13, and EN62384 of lighting regulations. LCM-40DA and LCM-60DA also comply with IEC62386-101, 102, 207 norms per DALI lighting control systems. Suitable applications include LED commercial lighting, office lighting, indoor LED decorative lighting…etc.
 
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C

CellarDweller

Well-Known Member
Positivity said:


Meanwell LCM-60DA
My new favorite. Haven't tested it yet but its what i've been looking for. The pricing is a little messed up though, expensive. I like the fact it has a 12v fan output and a input for a thermal attachment. Cleans up the install with less seperate components. Hopefully we'll see more options like this in the future. Also can set dimming up multiple ways including a internal way, i like the flexibility. Worth it for a nice build i think.

Cut paste of features..

In response to the demands of intelligent LED lighting control and to provide a flexible power solution for project style lighting design, MEAN WELL introduced 40W/60W multiple-stage output current LED power supply~ LCM-40(DA) and LCM-60(DA) series. With “constant current output” design, the output current level can be flexibly selected by the built-in DIP switch. The basic models, LCM-40 and LCM-60, are designed with “2-in-1” dimming function (0~10Vdc and PWM signal), while the digital control models, LCM-40DA and LCM-60DA, are built-in DALI interface and push dimming function. These launched units can fulfill the increasing demands of intelligent digital dimming applications. Featuring with 180~295 VAC and built-in two stage PFC function, these new series comply with harmonic current limitation per EN61000-3-2 Class C (>35% load) and also fulfill PF>0.9 if loading over 35%. In addition, they possess 2KV surge immunity ability (EN61000-4-5, heavy industry level) between Line and Neutral, which complies with the related lighting requirements. With up-to date high performance circuit topology, LCM-40(DA)/60(DA) possess up to 91.5% of high efficiency, so they can be cooled by free air convection from -30℃ to +60℃ ambient temperature. Built-in temperature compensation function, by connecting an external temperature sensor (NTC resistor) between the NTC+/- terminals, the output current could be correspondingly changed with the detected temperature to ensure the long lifetime of LEDs. In addition, they equip with synchronization dimming function that can operate 10 drivers (max.) synchronously in response to the dimming control signal of LED lighting systems with multiple lighting fixtures. LCM-40(DA)/60(DA) are rectangular and low profile (23mm) plastic enclosed power supplies. Different from the general design with input in front and output in rear, the I/O connection of these new models are changed to the same side, which allows system designer a more convenient wiring installation. Other standard functions include Class II design (no F.G.), built-in 12V/ 50mA auxiliary output (for driving fan), protections for short circuit, over voltage, and over temperature. All of them comply with certificates per UL8750, ENEC EN61347-2-13, and EN62384 of lighting regulations. LCM-40DA and LCM-60DA also comply with IEC62386-101, 102, 207 norms per DALI lighting control systems. Suitable applications include LED commercial lighting, office lighting, indoor LED decorative lighting…etc.
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You mean like this one :bigjoint: I got it to power this test unit for the Chromalit panel units I am building for leafy veg and herb growing :)
 

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CellarDweller

Well-Known Member
It's a lovely unit - very well put together, runs only slightly warm at 1.05A all day and has all sorts of options, like you say. When you consider the people (like me) that will be using CPU coolers with fans to cool their COBs, then this is a nice option for the "money is no object" brigade as it simplifies greatly your wiring. From memory it's a 12V fan outlet, so you'll still need a dimmer for that if you want to run at 5V as the great Supra suggests is optimal (I got a Phobya in line dimmer for that :)), but like I say, a lovely unit that has great flexibility and simple to use/set-up.
 
ReeferDance

ReeferDance

Well-Known Member
Positivity said:
Thanks tp. I don't mind the size as it seems to act as a muffler compared to a standard inline. The flat bottom is actually really nice to just set down.

The housing is a bud industries aluminum enclosure. You can search bud industries for different styles and sizes. Amazon has them for sale with free shipping in lots of different sizes. It comes as a plain square box which i modify for what i need. I recommend anyone building a light for the first time to consider a housing. All it takes to modify it is a drill, hole saw, files for deburring, and a nibbler for cutting small openings. You can do it as simple or as complicated as you like.
Click to expand...

I Also have 2 lights I built using Bud Industries aluminum boxes. They worked out awesome and come in so many different sizes, plus the name is pretty hilarious.
 
Positivity

Positivity

Well-Known Member
CellarDweller said:
It's a lovely unit - very well put together, runs only slightly warm at 1.05A all day and has all sorts of options, like you say. When you consider the people (like me) that will be using CPU coolers with fans to cool their COBs, then this is a nice option for the "money is no object" brigade as it simplifies greatly your wiring. From memory it's a 12V fan outlet, so you'll still need a dimmer for that if you want to run at 5V as the great Supra suggests is optimal (I got a Phobya in line dimmer for that :)), but like I say, a lovely unit that has great flexibility and simple to use/set-up.
Click to expand...
Very nice. I have four on the way to try out. Can't wait to see what I can do with them

Money no object brigade...lol. At least we get our moneys worth now!

ReeferDance said:
I Also have 2 lights I built using Bud Industries aluminum boxes. They worked out awesome and come in so many different sizes, plus the name is pretty hilarious.
Click to expand...
Oh.. It's a bud box alright. :shock:
 
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Positivity

Positivity

Well-Known Member
Thinking of doing a scrog for the first time. 50/50 coco and perlite mix with general organics on a drip. I can see already its going to slow me down by adding a veg time to fill the screen. But, this should be a recipe for lots of fat, stinky, tops...

Will have to use my new light for a little as i redo the main light. Have 4000k in this light, should work well enough to fill the screen

image.jpg image.jpg

It'll be a bit before i get to this, just a little teaser
 
Positivity

Positivity

Well-Known Member
stardustsailor said:
hmmm...Revision 6.

Extra Warm ...Very AP67ish ....
View attachment 3393227


...
Notice how the NS1 specrum of valoya resembles quite a lot the
spectra of 3000-4000 K PC LEDs/COBs ?

"Wide sun like spectrum for research & biotech "...
:P

Cheers.
:peace:
Click to expand...
Wouldn't warm white plus 660 be a higher cri than all of those valoya types. Not that i chase cri, but last i remember cri goes above 90.

Ns1 is a rgb type? With lots of green? Interesting, very close to warm white..

I would have chose 4k for my setup but i'm on a COB buying break for now. It's close enough in the spectra neighborhood that I'll stay with 3k for now. Very warm, and fertile...:joint:
 
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churchhaze

Well-Known Member
I want to try adding red to my whites too. I have a feeling it will result in overall shorter plants. I get way too much stretch with my c99, and I'm hoping some added 660nm would give it a better "direct light" signal for the top level canopy.

Edit: My thinking for a rule of thumb is if the white tinge is pink, it's way too much red, but if it looks yellow or amber, it's good. Red+green is perceived as yellow to the brain, so a good amount of green and spectral yellow should balance the redness and cause yellow tinge. (rule of thumb only)

Of course, I only have experience with various whites so far.
 
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