DiY LED - Cree CXA3070

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Yep even though it is only 300K difference, it seems to really hurt the efficiency by going to 2700K. Also there is the concern that the 2700K might not have the ideal amount of blue to get the maximum frosting and flavor. The 3000K has about 14% blue which is great, but I am still not sure if that is enough, currently experimenting with that.

On the other side of the coin the 3000K has less red and deep red than the 2700. I have a suspicion that the deep red is what is responsible for the quicker finish and increased density versus HPS buds, but also still experimenting with that.

So for now straight 3000K is very efficient, economical and simple. But for those who like to tinker the 3000K spectrum may have some room for improvement by adding deep blue and deep red.
 

Greengenes707

Well-Known Member
I have been getting consistently quicker finishing times with AT's than with hps. Not a whole bunch of deep anything in their spectrum. Just a 450 fro the cool white, and some 630. But it does balance out to about 2800K, but higher blue amounts than a pure white producing that temp. It's pretty limited in deep red compared to panels using WW and/or 660 directly. But I am very curious about bud size and development...will it induce football sized nugs or at least have significant effect compared to plain WW or 630 enhanced.

I know that I want to tweak and give some complexity to my DIY. Possible even starting over with a different K-temp as my base. Finding the best and most beneficial red is my obstacle right now.
 
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vitamin_green_inc

Well-Known Member
Anyone come across any good deals on top BINs lately? Less than 20 pieces lol. I just bought a a51 rw-75w before they moved, but I love the look and the potential of the individual cree modules. Problem is I only need 1-3 and this seems to be an impossible task :cry:
I sure do love this forum though, it seems to be one of the more active out of roughly 3-4 I am a member of.
 

epicfail

Well-Known Member
Yep even though it is only 300K difference, it seems to really hurt the efficiency by going to 2700K.
If the 2700k Z4 (top) and the 3000k Z4 (mid top) cxa3070 are both pumping out (around) the same lumens, how is the 2700k electrically less efficient than the 3000k?

When you started this thread it was based on 3000k Z2's. The 2700k Z4's should actually be more efficient than those right? or am I not understanding something right (quite possible).

Edit: We already know you can grow Killer bud with around 2000k (HPS) and the 2700K is much better than that, and the 2700K would be a better match to people mixing with 5000K. I don't think I will be ruling it out anytime soon.
 
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SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Right, so I would compare the 2700K Z4 versus the 3000K AB because those are the top bins for each color temp. The 3000K creates about 6% more photons/W but they are both awesome. The trouble is we have not seen the CXA3070 2700K Z4 for sale yet, or even Z2 for that matter. Same goes with the CXA3590, only the mid bin 2700K is available but the top bin CXA3590 3000K is available.
 

uzerneims

Well-Known Member
What are bennefits of 3590 3000 z4 vs 3070 3000 z4?

They have expensive drivers... Better ti stick to 3070 3000 z4 - from seed to harvest...
Will this work for 90x75x125 box
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Going to attempt power factor correction because my favorite drivers so far are non PFC. Spent $55 on these run caps. Should be more than enough capacitance to correct for 1200W of LED dissipation. Room 2 currently needs about 120uF and room 3 needs about 70uf but they will both need about 130uf once I swap a few more drivers.

DSC07458a.jpg
 
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Positivity

Well-Known Member
Don't know if you noticed supra..

The 3590 comes in 36v now as well as 77v. So it can now be run on a low voltage driver. The current is roughly double to achieve that though. Works well for me since the 2100ma drivers I have will match up quite well with it. I could now have a 88w low voltage 3590...another cool option. Looks like bins and efficiency are the same from my quick look..


http://cree.com/LED-Components-and-Modules/Products/XLamp/Arrays-NonDirectional/XLamp-CXA3590
 

mc130p

Well-Known Member
Don't know if you noticed supra..

The 3590 comes in 36v now as well as 77v. So it can now be run on a low voltage driver. The current is roughly double to achieve that though. Works well for me since the 2100ma drivers I have will match up quite well with it. I could now have a 88w low voltage 3590...another cool option. Looks like bins and efficiency are the same from my quick look..


http://cree.com/LED-Components-and-Modules/Products/XLamp/Arrays-NonDirectional/XLamp-CXA3590
I couldn't find them for sale anywhere, just the high voltage version....did you find them for sale somewhere?
 

CaliWorthington

Well-Known Member
My colas were sagging so I tied them up. While I was doing this, one of the shorter (5') but bushier plants I had moved, but wasn't working on at the time, broke itself in several places, including the terminal cola(s). It sounded like a freaking tree coming down in the rain forest. It's barely hanging on, I put some tape on it and tied it up. I was like, "Oh great, there goes several ounces of beautiful Amnesia Haze buds down the drain". Hopefully it continues to feed through what's left of the main stem. If not, that plant is largely a loss. I'm not growing them this big again.

I literally watched the plant go from perfect to falling over, twisting and contorting all in one direction, within a couple hours. I think it's from a combination of getting too dry a couple times, the weight of the buds, the thrips, and maybe too much PK, though I only added 1ml per gallon Bloombastic. It could be the H&G base nutes too, this happened once before. Suddenly a few weeks from harvest, the plants go all catatonic. I think there might be something wrong with their nutrient ratios for the late growth stage.

I'll have to post up some before and after shots, so you can share in my dismay. :evil:

Otherwise the CXA 3070 are performing beautifully. Next run I will have plants all the same size with nets or something, this sucks.
 

cityworker415

Well-Known Member
My colas were sagging so I tied them up. While I was doing this, one of the shorter (5') but bushier plants I had moved, but wasn't working on at the time, broke itself in several places, including the terminal cola(s). It sounded like a freaking tree coming down in the rain forest. It's barely hanging on, I put some tape on it and tied it up. I was like, "Oh great, there goes several ounces of beautiful Amnesia Haze buds down the drain". Hopefully it continues to feed through what's left of the main stem. If not, that plant is largely a loss. I'm not growing them this big again.

I literally watched the plant go from perfect to falling over, twisting and contorting all in one direction, within a couple hours. I think it's from a combination of getting too dry a couple times, the weight of the buds, the thrips, and maybe too much PK, though I only added 1ml per gallon Bloombastic. It could be the H&G base nutes too, this happened once before. Suddenly a few weeks from harvest, the plants go all catatonic. I think there might be something wrong with their nutrient ratios for the late growth stage.

I'll have to post up some before and after shots, so you can share in my dismay. :evil:

Otherwise the CXA 3070 are performing beautifully. Next run I will have plants all the same size with nets or something, this sucks.
Sorry friend that sucks. I'm sure some body local has a jar for you ask around. No crying move on and up!

Sent from my XT1060 using Rollitup mobile app
 
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