DIY E-Nail

Let us know how long it lasts. Note that a plastic enclosure with no vents could get pretty warm inside.

I suppose if you don't have it running for extended periods......

losinc said:

Howdy Folks,

I'm trying to tune my Auber 1512a

Current Parameters
0001 Menu

AH1- 800

AL1 - 900

AH2 - 300

AL2 - 300

Menu 0036

P - 10.4

I - 0030

D - 007

Souf - 0.2

oT - 002

Filt - 00

Menu 0089

int = Y

outy - 2

atdu - 010

psb - 0

rd - 0


Everything seems fine. Gets up to temp in 2mins or so.
I just notice it over shoots and eventually settles.
Please let me know if my numbers are to aggressive.

Thanks

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Quick update : on start up I over shoot by 200° then settles at 660.

My coil turns red for a second then it's back to normal. I'm trying to extend the life of my coils, so which numbers should I turn down.

I got these numbers from a friend's unit he purchased on a forum.

Thanks again info and help guys!

losinc said:

Quick update : on start up I over shoot by 200° then settles at 660.

My coil turns red for a second then it's back to normal. I'm trying to extend the life of my coils, so which numbers should I turn down.

I got these numbers from a friend's unit he purchased on a forum.

Thanks again info and help guys!

Click to expand...

Autotune really works the best. Most turn red on heat up even if they barely overshoot. Mine over shoots by about 15-25 but its because its going from room temp to 700 (ish) and the thermocouple is in the end and its usually the middle ring that gets red because its the center of the coil where i think the most resistance is. So once it passes its heat through the coil to the thermocouple it realizes its way over temp.

But after all theconfigurations i tried autotune works the best.

SnapsProvolone said:

Let us know how long it lasts. Note that a plastic enclosure with no vents could get pretty warm inside.

I suppose if you don't have it running for extended periods......

Click to expand...

Ive had it for about a year.
For sure. Ive debated cutting slits in it to vent but never decided to. Its never on for more than 4 hours at a time. Occasionally 8-10 but rarely. And it never really gets to warm. The plastic will get cold because most places i take it are a little colder (basements and shit) so compared to the rest of the plastic its warm buts its barely warm.

Well ive got all the parts here or almost here for my next build, This time i think i got the enclosure i would really like to go with. I went with a blue screen and blue light up button this time as well. Ive come to the conclusion that i prefer my personal built unit over the 2 i have purchased. Im confident with my unit and its performance. All my friends have been loving it, so im getting ready to wholesale a bunch of parts to produce 5-10 and see how it goes selling them to friends locally. According to usps tracking, my enclosure should arrive today. I hope by tomorrow to have some finished pics up for you guys! Also now that i have 2 of my own personal built units, im going to program each with a different PID setting that has been recommended to me and have them run side by side and get used, see if theres much of a difference and which settings i would like to go with for the units im producing.

Have A Great ShatterDay EveryOne!!!

Built this today. Im getting ready to wholesale a bunch of parts and will have extras for sale for anyone interested in building their own unit. I will never use a dremel again after today, from now on i will be patient and take the boxes to work and mill and drill them. but 5-10 at a time so there ready.

torturekiller420 said:

Built this today. Im getting ready to wholesale a bunch of parts and will have extras for sale for anyone interested in building their own unit. I will never use a dremel again after today, from now on i will be patient and take the boxes to work and mill and drill them. but 5-10 at a time so there ready.

View attachment 3329704 View attachment 3329705

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We use a hacking saw and flat bastard file for prototype square cutouts.

A Dremmel is too hard for me personally to cut long straight lines with, cause the small diameter cutting wheels/points/burrs have a mind of their own. By cocking the flat file at an angle, you can average out the error and easily knock off peaks and bulges, as well as square corners, holding it flat and perpendicular.

My boxes were all plastic so a dremel and about 5 minutes id bust it out. Id do a rough cut about 1/8" outside the actual area needed cut then go in there with 2 sanding drums, one medium one small (for the corners) and then sharpen up the corners with the cutting wheels. It would be a much bigger bitch doing it into aluminum or any other metal for that matter.
Companies even make custom punch plates if you happen to have a press or can rig up a press. Its only aluminum so luckily a softish metal. But not sure how much the dies/punches cost.

Im a welder&fabricator and machinists by trade. Ill be taking all my boxes to work from now on and use a mill to make my holes. That was my intention's for this box, but i got overly excited when it showed up on a saturday and i didnt go back to work until today, i had to make ends meet so i could build this baby yesterday. I really enjoy these types of projects so these are a great way to spend my days off work during this winter with nothing to do. I kind of fucked up the controller slot but lucky me they include a rubber gasket for guys like me to cover up said fuck ups. Anyways, im back on the hunt for a different box, a lot of companies use this exact or a very similar enclosure. I only plan to sell a few locally, but i would still like something just a bit different than anyone else's

@budbro18

Do the Auber temperature controllers come in their default state ready to wire up and go? Thanks!

nathan7 said:

@budbro18

Do the Auber temperature controllers come in their default state ready to wire up and go? Thanks!

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Yup already set to k type thermocouple too.

torturekiller420 said:

Im a welder&fabricator and machinists by trade. Ill be taking all my boxes to work from now on and use a mill to make my holes. That was my intention's for this box, but i got overly excited when it showed up on a saturday and i didnt go back to work until today, i had to make ends meet so i could build this baby yesterday. I really enjoy these types of projects so these are a great way to spend my days off work during this winter with nothing to do. I kind of fucked up the controller slot but lucky me they include a rubber gasket for guys like me to cover up said fuck ups. Anyways, im back on the hunt for a different box, a lot of companies use this exact or a very similar enclosure. I only plan to sell a few locally, but i would still like something just a bit different than anyone else's

Click to expand...

Hell yeah thats why im goin with generic pelican cases. People have done them but theyd work best for my situation of always goin places and no one having a set up or being out of tane. And i need a case for my piece so its just a win win.

Ill throw up some pictures once i get around to doin that stuff.

Mr. Shine said:

View attachment 3331096

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Someone leave an enail on??

budbro18 said:

Hell yeah thats why im goin with generic pelican cases. People have done them but theyd work best for my situation of always goin places and no one having a set up or being out of tane. And i need a case for my piece so its just a win win.

Ill throw up some pictures once i get around to doin that stuff.

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See what kind of prices you can get on a PVC lined or otherwise ammo can

Mr. Shine said:

See what kind of prices you can get on a PVC lined or otherwise ammo can

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I saw a plastic ammo can at harbor freight that looked good and i have one or two ammo cans lyin around but they were my grandpas so theyre kinda sentimental. But itd be nice cause of the natural heat sinking of the metal.

Fire safe plumbers foam bro if you need to put a thin layer of something on the inside of the ammo cans to make it so it won't conduct electricity

If your box is conducting electricity, you have some serious problems on your hands.

Any metal housing should be grounded if AC powered.

So I've been on a long mission trying to figure out my build. I wired everything perfectly and exactly how you put it. The best I was able to do with it was get to 90 degrees. I thought the pid had an issue so I called Auber and they said it was my coil but it works perfect on the analogue dnail I purchased the coil with from D-Nail. I end up sending the the pid to auber to be checked out and it's working fine.

A few days after that I take my Borobook Quartz banger and coil to my buddy's place to use on his D-Nail and it doesn't work. The D-Nail displays "PFA" which means it doesn't sense a heater. I immediately call D-Nail's support line and they tell me that D-Nail's pinout on the XLR is different than in this tutorial. They're XLR pinout is 1. Positive 2. Negative 3. Tc + 4. Tc- 5. Ground

I still haven't been able to switch the pinout since my friend has my soldering iron to test this myself. Has anyone experienced any trouble using this setup with D-Nail coils? I saw mention of someone using one.