DIY E-Nail

SnapsProvolone said:

Sounds like the temperature sensor lines are reading null? Seems the heating works but there is no monitoring of this effect via the TC?

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sourorbetter said:

So I contacted Auber and D-nail and I set the exact parameters for a 100 watt coil and it kept heating up non stop. D-nail support believes it's the heater's thermocoupler sensor is shorted. I'm going to test my unit with my boy's coil that works. I expect it to and I'll just buy a new coil. I'll report in how the test goes.

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Let me know if i was actually correct.

had my xlr wired backwards haha, figured it out! every things working perfect now

sourorbetter said:

So I contacted Auber and D-nail and I set the exact parameters for a 100 watt coil and it kept heating up non stop. D-nail support believes it's the heater's thermocoupler sensor is shorted. I'm going to test my unit with my boy's coil that works. I expect it to and I'll just buy a new coil. I'll report in how the test goes.

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Yeah that is some crazy shit. You dont happen to have your pid set to Celsius do you? Probably not but just about the last thing i could think of. Its strange its displaying a temp at all if the thermocouple is messed up.

budbro18 said:

Yeah that is some crazy shit. You dont happen to have your pid set to Celsius do you? Probably not but just about the last thing i could think of. Its strange its displaying a temp at all if the thermocouple is messed up.

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Have you checked our SSR to make sure it hasn't failed closed?

Fadedawg said:

Have you checked our SSR to make sure it hasn't failed closed?

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Yup probably the only thing left that could be failing right now.

I tested my unit last night with my friend's WORKING dnail coil and it did the exact same thing, it went past the set temp of 440 and just kept rising. I'm going to call Auber now and see what they say. I think it's the ssr and so did the support at dnail if it wasn't the coil. I already sent this PID back to Auber once before to get checked out and it's working perfectly according to them.

sourorbetter said:

I tested my unit last night with my friend's WORKING dnail coil and it did the exact same thing, it went past the set temp of 440 and just kept rising. I'm going to call Auber now and see what they say. I think it's the ssr and so did the support at dnail if it wasn't the coil. I already sent this PID back to Auber once before to get checked out and it's working perfectly according to them.

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Double check your wiring on your pid and make sure the pid control wires are correct and make sure the hot is going from 2 to 1. i dont know why but they say to do it this way even though it will work either.

I spoke with Auber yesterday and they think the ssr is damaged. I'm passed my 90 day warranty so they offered to give me a discount on a new 25a ssr. Hopefully this is the answer to my problems. I'm 99.99% sure my wiring is correct. What do you mean the hot going from 2 to 1? where exactly?

This picture is from a few days ago showing my connections. I can't take new ones as I've already removed the ssr.

I put an aluminum block under the SSR's for a heat sink, after losing a few controlling motors and mats.

Fadedawg said:

I put an aluminum block under the SSR's for a heat sink, after losing a few controlling motors and mats.

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Can you post an example of one you use?

I just read this on a site about ssr's, "With loads of less than 4 amperes, cooling by free flowing convection or forced air currents around the unit is usually sufficient. Loads greater than 4 Amps will require heat sinks."

The coil is only 100 watts/shy of 1 amp. Do you guys really think a heat sink is necessary or would something else suffice?

My build was successful, but one thing has stumped me. I have an Electric Dabvenue (enail) that I am happy with at ~ 710 depending on the solvent-less material I am melting. I built my new box with the same CB mic connector and pinout to be able to share my 2 coils between the 2 boxes. Everything worked first time but the new box must be set 300 degrees higher (1010) to make the nail feel (to my hand above) even close to the same as when at 710 on the Dabvenue. What is going on?

Ive having issues with my second unit now. I got a new dnail extended life coil for it, got everything plugged in and turned on, then i started the auto-tune. the coil is red hot and has stayed red hot for the last 10 minutes. I dont remember my other unit doing this shit during auto-tune and im about to shut it off and set it some PID settings. The temp reads around 600 and stays there, the AT light is still blinking rapidly and with a red hot coil. Did i wire something wrong here?

@torturekiller420 If we are talking about an Auber, mine does not do that. It sounds like your first unit doesn't do that. Check wiring against previous unit, try the new coil with the old unit, verify pinout of new coil (if came with plug) is as expected. Try old coil on new unit. Report your findings.

sourorbetter said:

Can you post an example of one you use?

I just read this on a site about ssr's, "With loads of less than 4 amperes, cooling by free flowing convection or forced air currents around the unit is usually sufficient. Loads greater than 4 Amps will require heat sinks."

The coil is only 100 watts/shy of 1 amp. Do you guys really think a heat sink is necessary or would something else suffice?

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Here is a picture showing a row of them attached to an aluminum 3/8" flatbar, in the bottom of a Mk VA2 control panel.

nathan7 said:

My build was successful, but one thing has stumped me. I have an Electric Dabvenue (enail) that I am happy with at ~ 710 depending on the solvent-less material I am melting. I built my new box with the same CB mic connector and pinout to be able to share my 2 coils between the 2 boxes. Everything worked first time but the new box must be set 300 degrees higher (1010) to make the nail feel (to my hand above) even close to the same as when at 710 on the Dabvenue. What is going on?

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It could be a different wattage coil

Theyre either 100w ish or 200w ish usually. So if you plug in a 200 on a pid tuned/autotuned for a 100 that could cause it. And vice versa.

Its tough cause all the ones i made never had a problem besides that the auber is set to 700 stock and without autotuning the first start up can be scary. But after the first one i figured out to turn the temp down from the beginning and ever since then its been smooth sailing.

Id suggest everyone be careful especially during the dry winter because you can build up static and short stuff out. Probably not the SSR but the pid is probably susceptible to static discharge

Fadedawg said:

Here is a picture showing a row of them attached to an aluminum 3/8" flatbar, in the bottom of a Mk VA2 control panel.View attachment 3338769

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So sexy!!!! That thing probably runs like a champ!

It is run by the long chip you can see in the lower center of the left PC board. Once you tell it how many and how long the floods and rinses are, it completes the full extraction cycle.

Thats nasty! All you need is an auto packer and youre a regular Wayne Szalinski!

@Fadedawg Nice! That's a major set up! lol My enclosure box is all aluminum so I think I should be good. I did look into some heat sinks for 25 amp ssr's just in case I wan't to be that guy.