Completely destroyed this fan driver

Airwalker16 said:

If I remember right I think it did. What's that mean?

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That probably fed another supply. Daisy chain.

About a year ago I had my dsl connection a half mile up the road hit by a flail mower. Township trustee on a tractor. They fixed it with wire nuts and a garbage bag over it.... The green post box is gone.

dandyrandy said:

That probably fed another supply. Daisy chain.

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Yeah I think that extra pair was to feed the LED driver with AC.

I think we have it figured out.

The giveaway was the electrolytic capacitor, it serves no purpose on the AC side of the circuit unless it is may be used as part of a filter with two caps antiparallel.

ANC said:

The giveaway was the electrolytic capacitor, it serves no purpose on the AC side of the circuit unless it is may be used as part of a filter with two caps antiparallel.

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That or the + / - markings lol

dandyrandy said:

That probably fed another supply. Daisy chain.

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Yah I'm pretty sure that's right I think I remember the first one plugging to the AC and then the second driver was powered right from the first one.

Id apply AC power to the red boxed pair and eliminate the yellow boxed pair. The black wire on the red box is likely the hot side.

Renfro said:

Yeah I think that extra pair was to feed the LED driver with AC.

I think we have it figured out.

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Or it might have been that way.... All powered to the fan drivers first then each one powered each set of 3 led drivers. 6 total.

Renfro said:

View attachment 4274269

Id apply AC power to the red boxed pair and eliminate the yellow boxed pair. The black wire on the red box is likely the hot side.

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But it doesn't matter what wire the wider prong goes to? So you're saying with a meanwell driver, I could switch the brown to white and blue to black and it would still work???

Airwalker16 said:

But it doesn't matter what wire the wider prong goes to?

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It's not gonna know the difference but id put the narrow side on the black wire. Looks like the red wire next to it has a white stripe and is likely the neutral.

Renfro said:

It's not gonna know the difference but id put the narrow side on the black wire. Looks like the red wire next to it has a white stripe and is likely the neutral.

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But red represents positive on the DC side so shouldn't I keep that the same? Narrow prong to red?

Airwalker16 said:

But red represents positive on the DC side so shouldn't I keep that the same? Narrow prong to red?

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There is no positive and negative on Alternating current.

In the diagram, I boxed a pair in red. That SHOULD be the AC input.

The DC output is on the other end of the board.

The ac input polarity won't really matter as there is no on off switch on either side, the switch would be on the hot leg.

The bridge rectifiers don't care about neutral. If you have a grounded case some manufacturers will put bypass caps from neutral to ground. Then you want the line to one side of the cap. Or movs. I started with 3 watt LED panels and had lots of failures. I took them apart to learn a bit. Chinese color codes aren't.

You want the live side to be fused, look for a fuse in series with that side it's usually hot maybe it won't be but I think perhaps worth a shot to look.

CannaBruh said:

You want the live side to be fused, look for a fuse in series with that side it's usually hot maybe it won't be but I think perhaps worth a shot to look.

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Probably correct, the red wire would be the hot leg. Again it would function either way but the correct wiring would have the hot leg thru the fuse.

R14 in a nutshell

@Airwalker16 - So did it work or did we burn down your house? lol

Done and done. It works now!!! Thanks for all the help and advice, Guys.

Stoners are useful after all! who knew...