Coco Growers Unite!

burgertime2010

Well-Known Member
The crowd here is looking for game-changing advice, as you should, and also to save money....I am saying simply that both are possible. There is no "best" way...only what works better and without as much labor. A lot of people will tell you what "works for them" but the implications are troublesome when baking a cake isn't actually as easy as pie. So, I am gonna just say my peace and I hope it helps. 1st the charging of coco is very important if you are using off brand non-treated coco( I don't recommend this be where you bargain hunt) but this is essential. Break that buffer, bring it down to 5.8 and cal mag will act as an electrolyte to stabilize ph. Skipping this step causes a tendency to increase transplant shock and more pronounced ph swings. Next, coco specific nutrients are an issue because they cost a lot and may be hype. What I have begun doing is ebb and flow Coco tables(bottom feeding) and avoid using premium nutes during veg and the first 10-14 days of flowering....Dyna grow basically,and a few other additives I have come to like. Financially, It went from making sense because I was broke to something that made apparent the way I had been naïve in the nutrient dept. My top-shelf taste didn't have to cost as much. With a coco grow,plants require a bit less ppm than other soilless mediums with the exception of cal-mag. Most coco grows are drain to waste and by-and-large 20%(a good runoff) is flushed away. So, ebb and flow gets more miles as it is reused for a week typically. I use it for double that sometimes and as long as I flush every 2 weeks( leach salt-buildup/ reset coco buffer), I get tremendous vigor. For years, I have used a combo of organic/synthetic/and benficial microbes, this changed after my 1st ebb and flow. I got gnats, slime, algae, and a shitty yield.....the organics were rotting. Basic funk, but it clearly was unrelenting.....enztmes, peroxide, pest control just made it over-complicated. In veg, these were not needed......and adding organic additives was important. However once flower initiation began I ran a sterile setup with simply adding "ZONe" by dutch masters and not only did my life become far easier, everything was pristine, and they are beautiful monsters. I think we can all save time, energy and cash but are more likely to waste these and wonder how? I would like to hear anything related to this idea or answer questions if I can.
 

ASMALLVOICE

Well-Known Member
I have a feeding in the middle of the week that goes for 3 times the normal cycle. I get a minute of pure soaking runoff. I think having this much fluid "pulling" through the media once a week has had a very positive effect on my plants. I have noticed growth spurts similar to that as well. I think that just drizzling feed on them and not doing some type of flush over time, will let salts build up during the more critical weeks of heavier nutrient mixes and have a detrimental effect on the plants. Whether it is a low nute/buffer restoration flush or just an all out soaking of the pot with current level nutes, getting things back to a "cleaner" state and keep the buildup to a minimum, can and will make life run a lot smoother on the cultivation front.

Peace and Great Grows

Asmallvoice
 

burgertime2010

Well-Known Member
I have a feeding in the middle of the week that goes for 3 times the normal cycle. I get a minute of pure soaking runoff. I think having this much fluid "pulling" through the media once a week has had a very positive effect on my plants. I have noticed growth spurts similar to that as well. I think that just drizzling feed on them and not doing some type of flush over time, will let salts build up during the more critical weeks of heavier nutrient mixes and have a detrimental effect on the plants. Whether it is a low nute/buffer restoration flush or just an all out soaking of the pot with current level nutes, getting things back to a "cleaner" state and keep the buildup to a minimum, can and will make life run a lot smoother on the cultivation front.

Peace and Great Grows

Asmallvoice
The flushing is so important. Topping off or drizzling just adds enough salts to get buildup and cause problems, even with ebb and flow I do a 1/2 strength extended top feeding to get that crap out and my buffer back every 2 weeks..... Especially with mother plants.
 

Tempe420

Active Member
The crowd here is looking for game-changing advice, as you should, and also to save money....I am saying simply that both are possible. There is no "best" way...only what works better and without as much labor. A lot of people will tell you what "works for them" but the implications are troublesome when baking a cake isn't actually as easy as pie. So, I am gonna just say my peace and I hope it helps. 1st the charging of coco is very important if you are using off brand non-treated coco( I don't recommend this be where you bargain hunt) but this is essential. Break that buffer, bring it down to 5.8 and cal mag will act as an electrolyte to stabilize ph. Skipping this step causes a tendency to increase transplant shock and more pronounced ph swings. Next, coco specific nutrients are an issue because they cost a lot and may be hype. What I have begun doing is ebb and flow Coco tables(bottom feeding) and avoid using premium nutes during veg and the first 10-14 days of flowering....Dyna grow basically,and a few other additives I have come to like. Financially, It went from making sense because I was broke to something that made apparent the way I had been naïve in the nutrient dept. My top-shelf taste didn't have to cost as much. With a coco grow,plants require a bit less ppm than other soilless mediums with the exception of cal-mag. Most coco grows are drain to waste and by-and-large 20%(a good runoff) is flushed away. So, ebb and flow gets more miles as it is reused for a week typically. I use it for double that sometimes and as long as I flush every 2 weeks( leach salt-buildup/ reset coco buffer), I get tremendous vigor. For years, I have used a combo of organic/synthetic/and benficial microbes, this changed after my 1st ebb and flow. I got gnats, slime, algae, and a shitty yield.....the organics were rotting. Basic funk, but it clearly was unrelenting.....enztmes, peroxide, pest control just made it over-complicated. In veg, these were not needed......and adding organic additives was important. However once flower initiation began I ran a sterile setup with simply adding "ZONe" by dutch masters and not only did my life become far easier, everything was pristine, and they are beautiful monsters. I think we can all save time, energy and cash but are more likely to waste these and wonder how? I would like to hear anything related to this idea or answer questions if I can.
I can appreciate this. I currently do DTW coco and am considering switching all over to 4x8 ebb and flow. Are you using any Drip Clean by House n Garden? I have found we get ZERO lockout nowadays and can pretty much run our entire cycle without a flush until the end. Even if runoff is high the plants never get locked out. Pretty amazing stuff.

Just curious, which Dyna products are you using? I used them side by side with the Veg+Bloom by Hydro research and it killed the V+B. I only used the GROW blend.
 

burgertime2010

Well-Known Member
The Foliage, Grow, and Bloom for the 1st 2 weeks. I then go to advanced A/B, Fulvic Acid, Zone conditioner, SM-90, protekt, and shooting powder. Every other res change I flush(out of habit) but no lockouts, beautiful flowers, no rot. It is well worth the clean and the explosive development.
 

Stoned Drifter

Well-Known Member
Heres the way im doing things. 100% coco hempy buckets. ive gone 5 day w/out signs of coco drying, im too scared to try more haha. Veg w/ Foliage Pro, and a fulvic acid, & foliar w/ protekt, neem . Flowering w/ Grow and protekt. calmag till half way of flowering. some floracious plus here and there. im starting to use TM7 humic acid every 2 weeks. results so far are excellent!!! check out my grow. also next runs ima be experimenting with mixes of FP,Grow and protekt.
 

Nizza

Well-Known Member
i never really record complete weights when doing harvest cause i do two chops different times, but if you want you can watch the outcome at my thread https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/773447-nizzas-3x-15-gallon-feminized.html
this will be my first full run of one stage plants (no new plants introduced mid flower) so i guess we'll see the complete yield

right now they haven't seen any foliage pro, because they are in 15 gallon soil pots and have only had water

lol meant to say vegetative phase and flower phase, hahaha not bloom and flower
i started giving foliage pro this week, and am slowly winding down the light cycle 10 min a day
 

Nookies

Well-Known Member
So there was a thread on another forum about an organic mix using coco. It seems easy and you don't need to buy 3490830 different 50 pound bags of whatever.

COCO MIX
For vegging we will us a 1 gallon pot
1 gal coco fiber coir + 2 oz perlite
3 tbsp Marine Cuisine
2 tbsp Epsom salt (some extra magnesium)

Basically just a couple table spoons of each and that got the person all the way to flowering with just PH'd RO water. This seems simple, and doesn't require fuck loads of shit. Anyone still trying something very similar to this? I do believe he stated he switched to using lime instead of the epsom salt.
 

james24

Member
When growing autos would there be a max size pot you should use? Considering the short growth cycle, cost of nutrients, daily watering would it make sense to use smaller 1-2 gallon pots?
 

Lucius Vorenus

Well-Known Member
So i walked a commercial grow yesterday and the guys plants all looked amazing. Major production 72,000 watts.

I started picking the main growers mind a bit, asked him about what he PH's to etc and he said "the water here right from my Ro is 7.0 so i don't touch it."

He grows in pure coco.

Can someone esssplain? He couldn't explain it he just said his plants are always fine when he uses a Ph of 6.5-7.5 so he doesn't even bother PHing.

WTF?
 

Javadog

Well-Known Member
That sounds ready to go Shady.

I have not really used it, but as an additive to other mixes,
but I know that the main concerns are salts and the need to
charge it with nutes, but both of these are handled in a bag
like that.

Confirm with the experts if perhaps perlite or some such might
be a good addition.

Good luck,

JD
 

somebody1701

Well-Known Member
So i walked a commercial grow yesterday and the guys plants all looked amazing. Major production 72,000 watts.

I started picking the main growers mind a bit, asked him about what he PH's to etc and he said "the water here right from my Ro is 7.0 so i don't touch it."

He grows in pure coco.

Can someone esssplain? He couldn't explain it he just said his plants are always fine when he uses a Ph of 6.5-7.5 so he doesn't even bother PHing.

WTF?
Before I used organic nutes with coco (no PHing with organic either), I knew that my RO water would have the right PH after adding the nutes. So I never PH'd either and the plants grew fine.
 

Lucius Vorenus

Well-Known Member
Before I used organic nutes with coco (no PHing with organic either), I knew that my RO water would have the right PH after adding the nutes. So I never PH'd either and the plants grew fine.
ANd he has neither of those things. He uses Maxigrow and Bloom. Ph is typically 7.0 he says.
 

Silky Shagsalot

Well-Known Member
since optimal ph for coco is 5.8, i don't see how he can get away with a neutral ph of 7. if it starts out at 7, and adding nutes will drop it quite a bit, like in the 3's, i don't get it. but, there's more than one way to skin a cat. i don't jump on bandwagons, so i'll just stick with what works for me. also, if you use coco specific nutes, you don't have to worry about amending with epsom salt. i get much better results since i starting using coco specific...
 
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