CO2 burner with grow tent setup advice

ligrow said:

Good day Justugh
Appreciate your clear input.
my LED planel have cooling fan blowing like you siad.
Here is my new draw for my setup. is that close to what you mentioned...
View attachment 3720110

18 inches is above the light? and 12 inches below is below the exhaust point?
not sure I have that much room in between. its just 200 height tent.
for those COB panel. I want to hang it height as possible next time. other wise I have to get down all the way if I need some trimming below scrog net.
so you idea is set exhaust point high, and intake point also on upper side but below the exhaust point
correct?

to equal the cfm for intake and exhaust. what would you recommend for fan size?
I wonder maybe 8inch fan for intake, two 6" fan for exhaust with dimmable that way I can avoid negative pressure suck in tent that reduce grow space.

Do I hook up any other devices on controller?

I will have three panel hanging on the tent its about 16KG for each panel.
im not using any brand of tent ppl recommend in this fourm.
so I want to avoid hang too much on it expect for three panel and one oscillating fan

no worry man, my English is bad....
And again really appreciate for all the detail you share
Happy grow

Click to expand...

for this to work the way i said
remove that one upper fan blowing in C02(it is to high to be effective)

the side u have the carbon filter on
1 carbon filters are ment to be sucked tho not blown (u have it blowing out the carbon filter)
2 just reverse the fan to make it sucking tho the caron filter blowing in on the tent ( the carbon filter sitting on the floor will pull the cool Co2 enriched air and dump it into the tent ) ....a powered intake
3 for this to work u need the powered intake to be low to the ground as Co2 and Cool/Cold air is heavier then warm oxygen so u need to be drawling from there

the rest of it is right as i can see just change that around

as for the venting out ........u want the intake venting to be below the exhaust point so the hot air has something to go too before it gets pulled out
my pic is rough but that is the idea u almost have it just change the fan and keep it low to the ground

COb light is like LED light it has Depth and power .........even if u move it to the top and leave 18 inches of room between the light u are still get 20 inches of usable light into the plant
cob lights are not like hids .......u can let the plant touch a led light it not making heat like a HID does (that is where the 18 inches come from )

the fan matching is easy a 6 inch can fan is 400cfms with the carbon filter on it about 360 .......use a speed controller on that inline fan and use a simple 240 cfm 6 inch booster for exhaust

the controller should have a senor on it that detects light and Co2 lvls ............that is only thing u need the rest of the gear has it own controller (AC and dehumidifer)
the senor in the tent will detect the light during the lights on time the system will tell the burner to go on and get to the 1500ppm u want then cut off


the powered intake venting point low is the key to making it be effective for u ........if the gas in the tent leaks out the intake will suck it back up and dump down on the plants

ligrow said:

I am thinking what if put filter on the intake side. and I still have 8" filter not just 6"
also wondering does co2 burner has to set every high?
As i dont want drill any hole here. i wonder maybe find some Iron frame for hanging the burner. (still have distance that manual recommend each side.)
strong intake should suck still suck co2 into the tent with no problem?
This new setup really make me headache day and night...

It would be awesome to have any feedback or input here.
thanks in advance

Click to expand...

u want it highish ..........u want the burns to be up in the air some so the heat it makes stays out of your cool air u are dumping into the tent .......u want the CO2 to flow down into the cool air then u are sucking that up and dumping it on the plants

A bit off topic , but related to Co2,

Does having the carbon filter on during the time you are injecting co2 into the room reduce the co2 effectiveness because it's scrubbing the air?

Also what time of the flowering cycle would you suggest is the best time to add Co2?
Also what time of the day?
Or are you keeping the parts at 1500 all day?

Indefinately
"Let there be Green in 2016"

Indefinately said:

A bit off topic , but related to Co2,

Does having the carbon filter on during the time you are injecting co2 into the room reduce the co2 effectiveness because it's scrubbing the air?

Also what time of the flowering cycle would you suggest is the best time to add Co2?
Also what time of the day?
Or are you keeping the parts at 1500 all day?

Indefinately
"Let there be Green in 2016"

Click to expand...

no not at all
the carbon filter is like a high lvl air duster that remove any smell trace to the air ........if anything it helps improve the plants health as it is keeping the air clean of mold spore fungi spores dust smoke

when the lights are on u want the Co2 reading to be 1300-1500 ppm to get the most bang for your Co2 ........when the lights go off that is when the plant wants Oxygen so your burner should turn off ......ideally u would want the burn to come on 30 mins before lights on and off 30/40 mins before light goes off

some controllers have timers built in just for that reason the senor does not have a photo cell to register light on .....it only knows during this time it is ok to burn if the lvl is below the ppm u set it for


as for use of the system .......again ideally u want to use it during the coolest part of the day (evening and night time lights on so the natural coldness to the air helps lower your cooling cost ) the day time it off so the heat does not build up u get a more controlled temp range for the whole life of the plant

just know doing that u do not get the hues that some strains do ........the plant natual colors up from the temp drop between day and night that 30/40 degrees it does

justugh said:

for this to work the way i said
remove that one upper fan blowing in C02(it is to high to be effective)

the side u have the carbon filter on
1 carbon filters are ment to be sucked tho not blown (u have it blowing out the carbon filter)
2 just reverse the fan to make it sucking tho the caron filter blowing in on the tent ( the carbon filter sitting on the floor will pull the cool Co2 enriched air and dump it into the tent ) ....a powered intake
3 for this to work u need the powered intake to be low to the ground as Co2 and Cool/Cold air is heavier then warm oxygen so u need to be drawling from there

the rest of it is right as i can see just change that around

as for the venting out ........u want the intake venting to be below the exhaust point so the hot air has something to go too before it gets pulled out
my pic is rough but that is the idea u almost have it just change the fan and keep it low to the ground

COb light is like LED light it has Depth and power .........even if u move it to the top and leave 18 inches of room between the light u are still get 20 inches of usable light into the plant
cob lights are not like hids .......u can let the plant touch a led light it not making heat like a HID does (that is where the 18 inches come from )

the fan matching is easy a 6 inch can fan is 400cfms with the carbon filter on it about 360 .......use a speed controller on that inline fan and use a simple 240 cfm 6 inch booster for exhaust

the controller should have a senor on it that detects light and Co2 lvls ............that is only thing u need the rest of the gear has it own controller (AC and dehumidifer)
the senor in the tent will detect the light during the lights on time the system will tell the burner to go on and get to the 1500ppm u want then cut off


the powered intake venting point low is the key to making it be effective for u ........if the gas in the tent leaks out the intake will suck it back up and dump down on the plants

Click to expand...

Thanks for the draw. it is more clear for me now...
1. For fan size, does 6" go enough to do its job? If I use 8" for intake. It has to be also 8" for exhaust right?
I heard for 10*5 space. need about 800CFM for vent grow. As im building sealed environment for the room. lower CFM would be ok?
What its the idea of powered intake? strong CFM for intake?

2. By have powered intake, Do I still need oscillating fan below from below( the one on the floor)?
The main reason I having that one is to keep Co2 on the plants level.

3. Im still confused about the number of distance for exhaust and intake point,
How many inches would you recommend to having the heat trap and Cool Co2 air dump in having led panels to spray it out.
What Im thinking here is Having Exhaust point at the top of the tent. Intake vent set slightly over the panel.

4. Wonder if I need leave room intake and exhaust holes for winter?
but my location need to run A/C 7 months a year to keep grow area temp under control.
I see some people have sealed room. with A/C on only in light period. When light off Room exhaust keep on. use outside area to cool the room in the dark period.
Wonder how to have the room sealed with intake and exhaust hole even fan is not running. Is their show stuff that can block the hole when fan off?

5. For hanging burner at highest point as possible. I guess I have no choice but drill two hole on ceiling? Any way to avoid construction in the room for hang the burner up high?
If there is no choice, but hanging on ceiling. What tool do I need for drill cement ceiling?
I try to setup wall mount TV hanger years ago. I found I more powerful( the one that can shock) I drill cement wall. The drill I have its only good enough to drill wood or plastic bucket.

6. For other gears hook up with controller, I wonder if connect intake and exhaust fan with it.
Running all the time during lights on. During dark period, only keep on when temp and RH is higher? Not event sure if the controller can be setting operate devices with temp and RH at the same time tho...

Again really do appreciate all your advice here.
Cheers

For the Dehu, I wonder if i can also set it high. that way I can have tubing connect drain out water to other room.
Keep Dehu running all the time not stopping by water tank full

ligrow said:

Thanks for the draw. it is more clear for me now...
1. For fan size, does 6" go enough to do its job? If I use 8" for intake. It has to be also 8" for exhaust right?
I heard for 10*5 space. need about 800CFM for vent grow. As im building sealed environment for the room. lower CFM would be ok?
What its the idea of powered intake? strong CFM for intake?

2. By have powered intake, Do I still need oscillating fan below from below( the one on the floor)?
The main reason I having that one is to keep Co2 on the plants level.

3. Im still confused about the number of distance for exhaust and intake point,
How many inches would you recommend to having the heat trap and Cool Co2 air dump in having led panels to spray it out.
What Im thinking here is Having Exhaust point at the top of the tent. Intake vent set slightly over the panel.

4. Wonder if I need leave room intake and exhaust holes for winter?
but my location need to run A/C 7 months a year to keep grow area temp under control.
I see some people have sealed room. with A/C on only in light period. When light off Room exhaust keep on. use outside area to cool the room in the dark period.
Wonder how to have the room sealed with intake and exhaust hole even fan is not running. Is their show stuff that can block the hole when fan off?

5. For hanging burner at highest point as possible. I guess I have no choice but drill two hole on ceiling? Any way to avoid construction in the room for hang the burner up high?
If there is no choice, but hanging on ceiling. What tool do I need for drill cement ceiling?
I try to setup wall mount TV hanger years ago. I found I more powerful( the one that can shock) I drill cement wall. The drill I have its only good enough to drill wood or plastic bucket.

6. For other gears hook up with controller, I wonder if connect intake and exhaust fan with it.
Running all the time during lights on. During dark period, only keep on when temp and RH is higher? Not event sure if the controller can be setting operate devices with temp and RH at the same time tho...

Again really do appreciate all your advice here.
Cheers

Click to expand...

1 what is the size of the tent ......LxHxW........this will tell us your total cubic feet in the tent
4x4x6 is 120 cf
5x5x6 is 150 cf
so a 6 inch fan working at the same lvl as a booster (240 cfms ) u are looking at the air cycled in the system every 40 secs

2 the fan inside is to help remove the IR heat that builds up on the leaves.............if u like u could have the intake dump the cool co2 air right behide the fan so the fan itself is spreading it out

3 it like this ........the air that comes in will be coller then the air in the tent .......with u dumping it on the light it will make the light run cooler making the area run cooler ........u need to leave some space at the top so the hot air in the tent can raise up above the lvl u are dumping the cool air in .......that is where u want to suck it out ..........rem the dump point and the ejection point is where u make it by ending the ducting

4 as long as u are in a tent the venting system is a permit thing for as long as u are growing in it ............the ac u see them use odds are it is a mini split (it is ductless the air it cools is the air in the room only) ............the room is set up in a TUB style the walls and floor is sealed up to keep the Co2 gas in (at night time Co2 gas is not what u want plants use Oxygen ) so they make a intake high up like u did in the tent and they pipe in the oxygen from the other room to lower the Co2 lvl at night and raise the oxygen

5 yah u can build a stand
https://www.amazon.com/iPower-GLT5XX4-Fluorescent-Premium-Quality-CSA-listed/dp/B00T0CPI6A
u see how it made ..........u do the same thing with steel conduit and 4x4s ..........if u can place the intake for the tent right under the burner ( Co2 is a heavy gas so with no real wind movement in the area the gas is going to waterfall right off the burner
just to cover my ass as i i do not want u killing self with fire look at the pic ..........when u stand up and attack the 4x4s to each other u can use brass 90 degree angles to hole it on and some strait steel plants on the other sides

6 rem your AC and dehumidifier already have controls built in to kick it on .............what u are thinking about is called a zephyr fan it kicks on and runs to cool off the area and then shuts down once the temp is at lvl................honestly with the system set the way i told u ........it should be temp stable your looking at maybe a 11 degree flux in the rooms temps and tent temp


no problem man ...........just stick around learn get better at growing and pass the help on freely to another later we are even

ligrow said:

For the Dehu, I wonder if i can also set it high. that way I can have tubing connect drain out water to other room.
Keep Dehu running all the time not stopping by water tank full

Click to expand...

yes it can work .....but u want it low as cold wet air will not get cycled tho it so the RH in the tent will be higher as u are not processing that lower air

the thing about the drain tube ........mold can grow in it very very easy .....empty the bucket when u check once a day is safer. u can use the water it collects to water the plants

justugh said:

1 what is the size of the tent ......LxHxW........this will tell us your total cubic feet in the tent
4x4x6 is 120 cf
5x5x6 is 150 cf
so a 6 inch fan working at the same lvl as a booster (240 cfms ) u are looking at the air cycled in the system every 40 secs

2 the fan inside is to help remove the IR heat that builds up on the leaves.............if u like u could have the intake dump the cool co2 air right behide the fan so the fan itself is spreading it out

3 it like this ........the air that comes in will be coller then the air in the tent .......with u dumping it on the light it will make the light run cooler making the area run cooler ........u need to leave some space at the top so the hot air in the tent can raise up above the lvl u are dumping the cool air in .......that is where u want to suck it out ..........rem the dump point and the ejection point is where u make it by ending the ducting

4 as long as u are in a tent the venting system is a permit thing for as long as u are growing in it ............the ac u see them use odds are it is a mini split (it is ductless the air it cools is the air in the room only) ............the room is set up in a TUB style the walls and floor is sealed up to keep the Co2 gas in (at night time Co2 gas is not what u want plants use Oxygen ) so they make a intake high up like u did in the tent and they pipe in the oxygen from the other room to lower the Co2 lvl at night and raise the oxygen

5 yah u can build a stand
https://www.amazon.com/iPower-GLT5XX4-Fluorescent-Premium-Quality-CSA-listed/dp/B00T0CPI6A
u see how it made ..........u do the same thing with steel conduit and 4x4s ..........if u can place the intake for the tent right under the burner ( Co2 is a heavy gas so with no real wind movement in the area the gas is going to waterfall right off the burner
just to cover my ass as i i do not want u killing self with fire look at the pic ..........when u stand up and attack the 4x4s to each other u can use brass 90 degree angles to hole it on and some strait steel plants on the other sides

6 rem your AC and dehumidifier already have controls built in to kick it on .............what u are thinking about is called a zephyr fan it kicks on and runs to cool off the area and then shuts down once the temp is at lvl................honestly with the system set the way i told u ........it should be temp stable your looking at maybe a 11 degree flux in the rooms temps and tent temp


no problem man ...........just stick around learn get better at growing and pass the help on freely to another later we are even

Click to expand...

1. Its a 10*5*6tent, so 6" probably would be enough....but 8" inline fan already on the way...
and just want to make sure...
is this what you call booster here.

and this is inline fan

Whats the differences between those fans?
Booster fan use about half watt than inline fan if its in same size.
Can I just use all inline fan for intake and exhaust?(I can always turn down the fan)

2. For the burner stand, 4 foot height is enough? Do I have to hang the unit at the highest point at the stand as possible?
In the lower part of the stand, does it need to be exact the height is to have it stand properly without any falling concerns?
Do I avoid upper side of unit being too close to top of the stand?

3. Duhu water drain to the bucket is what I do for my current grow right now. I drain it to the bucket out of the tent.
but isn't bucket with water in the room. means moisture source here?
Have cover for bucket, does that help?
I dont mind dump the bucket everyday. I wonder what if I go out of town for more than 5 days?
I wasnt sure what dehu water contain, so is it ok to dump back to res.?

https://www.rollitup.org/t/ebb-and-grow-with-scrog.909106/page-4
This is my current grow. first time running anything bigger than 5x5.
New setup training and growing method would be the same as my current grow.
except for the Ebb system that I already have. Still open for any method to have yield best in 10*5 space in the tent

Still really appreciate all the info you share here.
Hope I can be there in one day~
trying to have all the gears ready for the new setup.
Will have some pic update once I set it.
It would be awesome to have for comment or suggest
cheers

Since I already have 8" inline fan on the way. Can I use 8 inch for intake. 6" fan for exhaust. Turn down the intake fan to match CFM?

ligrow said:

Since I already have 8" inline fan on the way. Can I use 8 inch for intake. 6" fan for exhaust. Turn down the intake fan to match CFM?

Click to expand...

That will work

Exhaust needs to higher then intake though.

Indefinately
" Let there be Green in 2016 "

ligrow said:

1. Its a 10*5*6tent, so 6" probably would be enough....but 8" inline fan already on the way...
and just want to make sure...
is this what you call booster here.
View attachment 3721882
and this is inline fan
View attachment 3721881
Whats the differences between those fans?
Booster fan use about half watt than inline fan if its in same size.
Can I just use all inline fan for intake and exhaust?(I can always turn down the fan)

2. For the burner stand, 4 foot height is enough? Do I have to hang the unit at the highest point at the stand as possible?
In the lower part of the stand, does it need to be exact the height is to have it stand properly without any falling concerns?
Do I avoid upper side of unit being too close to top of the stand?

3. Duhu water drain to the bucket is what I do for my current grow right now. I drain it to the bucket out of the tent.
but isn't bucket with water in the room. means moisture source here?
Have cover for bucket, does that help?
I dont mind dump the bucket everyday. I wonder what if I go out of town for more than 5 days?
I wasnt sure what dehu water contain, so is it ok to dump back to res.?

https://www.rollitup.org/t/ebb-and-grow-with-scrog.909106/page-4
This is my current grow. first time running anything bigger than 5x5.
New setup training and growing method would be the same as my current grow.
except for the Ebb system that I already have. Still open for any method to have yield best in 10*5 space in the tent

Still really appreciate all the info you share here.
Hope I can be there in one day~
trying to have all the gears ready for the new setup.
Will have some pic update once I set it.
It would be awesome to have for comment or suggest
cheers

Click to expand...

1 10x5x6 .......is 300cf
to have a good plant u need the air cycling out every 3-5 mins 1 time .........faster is better as it keeps the heat build up to as small as possible ...........and yes that is right about the booster fan and the inline fan (know speed controllers only work on inline fans ....booster fans do not work with speed controllers )

2 ok u need to guess to mate (where is the lvl of the buds the tallest cola u are going to make ........u want to have the burner units just little higher then that lvls .........think about 5 foot stand then hook the burner to hang about 4 and half feet ...............as for the base of the stand if u want u can add on some stablzing legs .......look at pic
and know most of the burner have a safety feature .......tip over and they automatically shut off

3 take the dehu out of the tent ........u want to condistion the air outside of the tent so when it gets pulled into the the tent it is the way u want
the burner is going to make RH so u need the dehu outside to handle the RH made from burning .......the Dehu is going to take the air from low to the ground and cycle it tho heating it up then the AC is going to hit it to cool it down and remove more of the RH in the air (most ac have a RH controll that automtically takes it down to 50%

the dehum should have a interal bucket with a kill switch when it gets full ........when u leave disconnect the drip line and make it fill in there so it will kill it self when full if u leave for 5 days .....a little RH for the plants will not hurt it and if gone for 5 days the RH will be give the plant little water ....the AC will pick up some of the work the RH might jump 10-15%

the best method to kill a tent ......is DWC or RDWC
it does cost more due to the fact u need to get extra gear to support the plant .....but u are looking at LBS from the plant once u dail in the system

Indefinately said:

That will work

Exhaust needs to higher then intake though.

Indefinately
" Let there be Green in 2016 "

Click to expand...

in this set up he does not want negivitive pressure like u would with a exchange venting system

his goal is to have equal ........this way the Co2 pools up in the bottom of the tent around the plants.....and if it leaks out tho stiching it is ok as it is getting sucked back up and dumped back in
this set up it only about keeping the tent at the right air temp so a even exchange will work the best for him (if he was not doing the co2 u would be 100% right )

Indefinately said:

That will work

Exhaust needs to higher then intake though.

Indefinately
" Let there be Green in 2016 "

Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback!
I would go 8" intake, 6" exhaust both with controller to have theCFM even in and out
I will have some pics update when I set it up.
It would be awesome to have your feedback here
happy grow

justugh said:

1 10x5x6 .......is 300cf
to have a good plant u need the air cycling out every 3-5 mins 1 time .........faster is better as it keeps the heat build up to as small as possible ...........and yes that is right about the booster fan and the inline fan (know speed controllers only work on inline fans ....booster fans do not work with speed controllers )

2 ok u need to guess to mate (where is the lvl of the buds the tallest cola u are going to make ........u want to have the burner units just little higher then that lvls .........think about 5 foot stand then hook the burner to hang about 4 and half feet ...............as for the base of the stand if u want u can add on some stablzing legs .......look at pic
and know most of the burner have a safety feature .......tip over and they automatically shut off

3 take the dehu out of the tent ........u want to condistion the air outside of the tent so when it gets pulled into the the tent it is the way u want
the burner is going to make RH so u need the dehu outside to handle the RH made from burning .......the Dehu is going to take the air from low to the ground and cycle it tho heating it up then the AC is going to hit it to cool it down and remove more of the RH in the air (most ac have a RH controll that automtically takes it down to 50%

the dehum should have a interal bucket with a kill switch when it gets full ........when u leave disconnect the drip line and make it fill in there so it will kill it self when full if u leave for 5 days .....a little RH for the plants will not hurt it and if gone for 5 days the RH will be give the plant little water ....the AC will pick up some of the work the RH might jump 10-15%

the best method to kill a tent ......is DWC or RDWC
it does cost more due to the fact u need to get extra gear to support the plant .....but u are looking at LBS from the plant once u dail in the system

Click to expand...

Good day Justugh,
1. I guess I will have 8" inake and 6" fan exhaust. both inline fan with controller.

2. Any idea if there are some easy way to build stand? I found some local workshop can have custom design and they have a reference is exactly the same as your draw. Will make a call next week to see how much they offer for that stand.
The one I ordered have automatically shut off too. still want to avoid any possibility to avoid burner fall down tho.

3. Dehu will out of the tent in new setup for sure. in my current setup, I have dehu in the tent cuz dehu is not big enough to bring down RH under 60%. When I have it in the tent it bring down to low 50%. I will have bigger dehu for new grow. I heard 70 pint one would be ideal in this setup?

Yeah I know Dehu have its tank, but want I can find in local, the tank is too small. Im in the high RH location. it should hold no more than one day fill the tank full. thats why I think have tubing out of the room.

I tried DWC before, Plants grow really fast if roots are healthy. I run it single bucket DWC in winter without any problem, but never having root look 100% healthy if not use chiller. Now Im use ebb and gro, clearly they are not grow fast DWC, but have messy white root that I never had in DWC. I will have chiller to keep everything in checked all the time.
Would love to have some DWC grow in nearly future. Wonder RDWC is the only way running muti-buckets with chiller?
see some Current culture under current system. Really want to get one, but its kind of pricey for me, and shipping might be a problem too.

when you said "it should be temp stable your looking at maybe a 11 degree flux in the rooms temps and tent temp "
does that mean tent temp 11 degree higher room temp?
In my current setup, I only have one 6' exhaust fan to pull air out of the tent. have intake pull cold air from lower side of the room to lower side of the tent. I will have 11 degree different. tent is 11 degree higher than room. Then I have a ducting to attach where A/C air come out for intake to solved this problem.

again appreciate all the input! cant wait to get some work done here.
Still learning and trying to master my grow space.
cheers

ligrow said:

Good day Justugh,
1. I guess I will have 8" inake and 6" fan exhaust. both inline fan with controller.

2. Any idea if there are some easy way to build stand? I found some local workshop can have custom design and they have a reference is exactly the same as your draw. Will make a call next week to see how much they offer for that stand.
The one I ordered have automatically shut off too. still want to avoid any possibility to avoid burner fall down tho.

3. Dehu will out of the tent in new setup for sure. in my current setup, I have dehu in the tent cuz dehu is not big enough to bring down RH under 60%. When I have it in the tent it bring down to low 50%. I will have bigger dehu for new grow. I heard 70 pint one would be ideal in this setup?

Yeah I know Dehu have its tank, but want I can find in local, the tank is too small. Im in the high RH location. it should hold no more than one day fill the tank full. thats why I think have tubing out of the room.

I tried DWC before, Plants grow really fast if roots are healthy. I run it single bucket DWC in winter without any problem, but never having root look 100% healthy if not use chiller. Now Im use ebb and gro, clearly they are not grow fast DWC, but have messy white root that I never had in DWC. I will have chiller to keep everything in checked all the time.
Would love to have some DWC grow in nearly future. Wonder RDWC is the only way running muti-buckets with chiller?
see some Current culture under current system. Really want to get one, but its kind of pricey for me, and shipping might be a problem too.

when you said "it should be temp stable your looking at maybe a 11 degree flux in the rooms temps and tent temp "
does that mean tent temp 11 degree higher room temp?
In my current setup, I only have one 6' exhaust fan to pull air out of the tent. have intake pull cold air from lower side of the room to lower side of the tent. I will have 11 degree different. tent is 11 degree higher than room. Then I have a ducting to attach where A/C air come out for intake to solved this problem.

again appreciate all the input! cant wait to get some work done here.
Still learning and trying to master my grow space.
cheers

Click to expand...

1 it will take some playing with the speed controllers to match the speeds but it is more then doable

2 the stand u can build yourself
power drill with a Phillips screw bit ....1 1/8 inch drill bit

1in wood screws .....a box

90 degree screw brackets ....flat screw brackets.......your going to need 12 90 degree brackets and 12 strait piece brackets

3 pieces of 4x4 8 feet long .......2 pieces u cut to 5 feet that for the stand leaves u the 2 3 ft pieces to use for the legs and then u cut the last one into 1 1/2 foot pieces and u have the feet to stabilize it....if u get the wood at a home depot or lowes they will cut it for u in store

1 piece of steel conduit 3 and 1/2 feet long
u could build this thing once u have all the pieces in less then 20 mins (the hardest part of the whole thing is making the hole that the steel conduit goes into .......just lay the 2 5 foot pieces next to each other get them flush and lvl and mark out the spots on the wood so when u drill and hang it the steel is lvl) ....the rest of it is just pushing wood flush to each other and using brackets wood screws

3 the way the DEHU works is heating up the air .....the air passes in the system it warms it up so it sends out drier air the water in the air collects and drip down .......by having it in your tent u are raising the temp of the tent (your fighting the cool air u are dumping into the tent it is less effective ......making u need to increase the amount of air or lowing the outside temp)

4 dwc u used the wrong rooting hormone ........i know of a good one called rapid start it will make all those fine white tendrils u see in ebb and flow

5 your tent is always going to run a few degrees hotter then outside the tent .......the ac is outside the tent the air it cools has to be moved to inside the tent then....the best u are going to do is a 6 degree different and that was using a system like this minus the Co2 .........i was cycling the air every 15 secs in the tent using LED

justugh said:

1 it will take some playing with the speed controllers to match the speeds but it is more then doable

2 the stand u can build yourself
power drill with a Phillips screw bit ....1 1/8 inch drill bit

1in wood screws .....a box

90 degree screw brackets ....flat screw brackets.......your going to need 12 90 degree brackets and 12 strait piece brackets

3 pieces of 4x4 8 feet long .......2 pieces u cut to 5 feet that for the stand leaves u the 2 3 ft pieces to use for the legs and then u cut the last one into 1 1/2 foot pieces and u have the feet to stabilize it....if u get the wood at a home depot or lowes they will cut it for u in store

1 piece of steel conduit 3 and 1/2 feet long
u could build this thing once u have all the pieces in less then 20 mins (the hardest part of the whole thing is making the hole that the steel conduit goes into .......just lay the 2 5 foot pieces next to each other get them flush and lvl and mark out the spots on the wood so when u drill and hang it the steel is lvl) ....the rest of it is just pushing wood flush to each other and using brackets wood screws

3 the way the DEHU works is heating up the air .....the air passes in the system it warms it up so it sends out drier air the water in the air collects and drip down .......by having it in your tent u are raising the temp of the tent (your fighting the cool air u are dumping into the tent it is less effective ......making u need to increase the amount of air or lowing the outside temp)

4 dwc u used the wrong rooting hormone ........i know of a good one called rapid start it will make all those fine white tendrils u see in ebb and flow

5 your tent is always going to run a few degrees hotter then outside the tent .......the ac is outside the tent the air it cools has to be moved to inside the tent then....the best u are going to do is a 6 degree different and that was using a system like this minus the Co2 .........i was cycling the air every 15 secs in the tent using LED

Click to expand...

2. I thought you were talking make it all by steel. In your idea, I could probably build it myself, except for drilling hole in steel pole.

3. Yes, my current setup its exactly like what you said. thats why I need intake ducting beside A/C unit...

4. is it the product does the job like hydrohuard?

5. Got it man. Almost got every gears order. Just wit for them to come. I will have my new setup done by end of this month.

Will keep update let you guys know how I do with my new setup
Cheers

Good day guys,
Its been a long week finally have new setup ready like @justugh recommend.
COB panels not arrived yet so I use 600watt and 400 watt MH non air cool right now
hopefully COB panels arrived next week I can switch on.

12 buckets ebb and grow system

6' inline fan on full speed at highest point of the tent exhaust heat out of the tent direct to where A/C suck on in heat

8" inline fan with filter for intake, set on the floor beside burner. pull the cold co2 air into the tent on the top of the oscillating fan

I end up just buying some shelf for hanging burner. its 180 cm height x 60cm x 90cm for around 25usd
Connect with Autopilot greenhouse master controller. set 1200ppm dead band 50ppm

Im not air cooling hid. controller read highest temp 85F.
plants after one day plants look like this. I thought 85F should be fine when adding co2?
This look like heat stress?


here are my questions:
1. what temp range when runing CO2? I heard if running co2 have to be over 80F for veg. Im thinking 80-85? what about temp range in flowering stage?

2. CO2 level stay pretty high even I set 1200PPM on controller. It go to 1700-1800 stay around 1500-1700 really long. actually I only seem burner on one time.
thats when I first connect it with controller. I burner for like couple mintues then it stop at the dead band. but when burner stop. PPM still went up 400-500 ppm anyone have experienced like this?
also I heard I have to cut co2 when lights off. also cut it a hour before lights off. How can I do it? seems like controller only read light on/ off?
I checked it lights off period. co2 level still around 1500ppm at the time. is that ok not to cut co2 low during lights off?

3. The RH during lights light gets to low 40%. go back to 70% when lights off.
Im in high RH area. when I vent grow never have RH low like this if not using Dehu.
I am thinking not air cooling the lights could be the reason?

4. what training method would you go?
I usually go with scorg. and I love it. but this tent have 2 side against to the wall. Its hard to set scorg net, and even harder to trimmer off all the lowers.
I figured if not get rid of everything below the net. the result wont be good anyway. I wonder if there is any training method produce good yield in my setup?

all the feedback and input would be appreciate.
have a nice weekend

ligrow said:

Good day guys,
Its been a long week finally have new setup ready like @justugh recommend.
COB panels not arrived yet so I use 600watt and 400 watt MH non air cool right now
hopefully COB panels arrived next week I can switch on.

12 buckets ebb and grow system
View attachment 3739160
6' inline fan on full speed at highest point of the tent exhaust heat out of the tent direct to where A/C suck on in heat
View attachment 3739161
8" inline fan with filter for intake, set on the floor beside burner. pull the cold co2 air into the tent on the top of the oscillating fan
View attachment 3739163 View attachment 3739162
I end up just buying some shelf for hanging burner. its 180 cm height x 60cm x 90cm for around 25usd
Connect with Autopilot greenhouse master controller. set 1200ppm dead band 50ppm
View attachment 3739164
Im not air cooling hid. controller read highest temp 85F.
plants after one day plants look like this. I thought 85F should be fine when adding co2?
This look like heat stress?
View attachment 3739166 View attachment 3739168

here are my questions:
1. what temp range when runing CO2? I heard if running co2 have to be over 80F for veg. Im thinking 80-85? what about temp range in flowering stage?

2. CO2 level stay pretty high even I set 1200PPM on controller. It go to 1700-1800 stay around 1500-1700 really long. actually I only seem burner on one time.
thats when I first connect it with controller. I burner for like couple mintues then it stop at the dead band. but when burner stop. PPM still went up 400-500 ppm anyone have experienced like this?
also I heard I have to cut co2 when lights off. also cut it a hour before lights off. How can I do it? seems like controller only read light on/ off?
I checked it lights off period. co2 level still around 1500ppm at the time. is that ok not to cut co2 low during lights off?

3. The RH during lights light gets to low 40%. go back to 70% when lights off.
Im in high RH area. when I vent grow never have RH low like this if not using Dehu.
I am thinking not air cooling the lights could be the reason?

4. what training method would you go?
I usually go with scorg. and I love it. but this tent have 2 side against to the wall. Its hard to set scorg net, and even harder to trimmer off all the lowers.
I figured if not get rid of everything below the net. the result wont be good anyway. I wonder if there is any training method produce good yield in my setup?

all the feedback and input would be appreciate.
have a nice weekend

Click to expand...

1 your correct running Co2 you can allow the temps to get up to about 86f with very little degrading due to the fact the Co2 in the air at a higher amount

2 the air u are breathing out increases it ......if i work in my are for 20 mins the ppm goes up by 200
A to do the hour before lights u need it on a timer with a fuzzy logic ( no light senor ) the senor is more of a fail safe for u so the system will not pump out during off hours due to the timer being set wrong (keeps u from killing the plants ) ......from what u said about the rate it increases out u do not need to worry about it
B if u wanted too u could set 1 fan up on a simple 15 min timer right after lights go out .......it job would be to suck the Co2 out to a lower lvl replacing with oxygen from in the house (15 mins on every 3 hours during lights out)

during light hours the plants use the Co2 and make oxygen .......lights off they use oxygen and make a waste form of Co2 they can not use
C u want the ppm to go lower during lights off other wise like choking them alittle can not get a full breath in

3 the heat from the HID lamps are lowering it during the day ........night when it goes off the heat is not making water go away so it builds
i shoot for 50% .........RH for growing u can go to 70 just watch out for PM (powdery mildew) .......now u will see your plants react to it they will make skinier leaves at high humidity and wider ones at lower

4 go Lst training .....alot like Scrog but attached to the buckets so allows u to move with out harming it .....other wise try super cropping (pinch the branch make a knot acts as a dam and pump making the buds bigger)

have to say this

good damn job.......most ppl would of did it the other way ( the old style )
this way was little more work but the effects of it pay off so much more as u just seen ........the fact u are sucking in from the floor and dumping into the tent

keep track of how offen u replace the tank of pro pain ........if i done the math right u should get 3 times the normal amount from it .....since it keeps cycling and dumping it back in

just know if i would of given u bad advice i would of paied so u were not out anything ........thanks for proving my design (i never had a burner to work with just mash buckets for shine ....byproduct of yeast eating sugar making alc is Co2 )