CO2 burner with grow tent setup advice

ligrow

Well-Known Member
Hi guys,
planing on have some setup upgrade next run.
It will be 10x5 tent in 13x10 room.
12000BTU dual hose A/C
want to add CO2 burner this time.
I have no experience with CO2 in grow room.
I might not be the best option to use burner with grow tent.
im thinking about hang burner out of the tent.
Still have exhaust and intake fan pull air in and out of the tent make air recirclate in tent and room.
that way I can maintain the CO2 level because the room is kind of sealed
(I will taped up all the window leaks as possible. Might still have some door leaks)
any one knows how to sealed the normal residential house door. Do you guys think this might work?

Also need some advice for controller, burner and dehu.
I see some Co2 controller also have temp and RH sensor and have three other outlets can be use.
Im not sure have this controller with all the cooling devices work together as I have some in 110V some in 220V. most device I have to press on again once it shut down by timer.

what size of burner would you recommend?

This is the setup now I am imagine and....sorry for the bad draw
any feedback would be appreciate
image.jpeg
 

xmatox

Well-Known Member
Have you ever ran co2 with LED's? Do your lights create enough heat for proper uptake of co2? How much co2 do you go through with a portable ac?
 

ligrow

Well-Known Member
Have you ever ran co2 with LED's? Do your lights create enough heat for proper uptake of co2? How much co2 do you go through with a portable ac?
I haven't use CO2 before. I'm not sure if led is gonna have enough heat for ideal co2 environment. I'm thinking maintain co2 around 1200-1500ppm.
Any inputs are welcome
Cheers
 

ligrow

Well-Known Member
My location is hot and humid. should be no problem have it heat up above 80F. in coldest months, I plan on using bare bulb 600watt HPS to heat up the tent. but yeah I have no experience with co2 at all. have been thinking adding Co2 for a while. After some research I decide to have a vent run first to make sure I have everything right before adding co2. I think maybe its time to add some co2 now. even not using co2. My A/C still run 24/7 for most seasons to keep temp to be ideal to grow in my location
 

ligrow

Well-Known Member
I might just use mini spilt instead portable one right now.
Any more advice for my new setup?
 

DDub

Well-Known Member
Why have the tent at all? Just turn said room into the environment if possible. I've never used a burner, only tanks and solenoids. Sentinel master controller is what I have. Into the CO2 outlet on controller is a timer that doesn't allow the solenoid to activate until 45 min in to 12/12 and shuts it off 30 min before dark. That's a whole other discussion. I've never found it beneficial to run CO2 anything over 1200 and I gradually work up to that 1200 starting more around 8-900 at the beginning of bloom. Do you live in a large city? If so I'm sure you have a grow store who does tank deposits or you can try and find a welding supply store that offers it. I've heard that can get kind of sketchy though when you're running through tanks so quick...

I'd personally light up 10x10 of that room and use the extra 3' on one side for workspace. Run a minisplit in there as it sounds like you can.
 

justugh

Well-Known Member
Hi guys,
planing on have some setup upgrade next run.
It will be 10x5 tent in 13x10 room.
12000BTU dual hose A/C
want to add CO2 burner this time.
I have no experience with CO2 in grow room.
I might not be the best option to use burner with grow tent.
im thinking about hang burner out of the tent.
Still have exhaust and intake fan pull air in and out of the tent make air recirclate in tent and room.
that way I can maintain the CO2 level because the room is kind of sealed
(I will taped up all the window leaks as possible. Might still have some door leaks)
any one knows how to sealed the normal residential house door. Do you guys think this might work?

Also need some advice for controller, burner and dehu.
I see some Co2 controller also have temp and RH sensor and have three other outlets can be use.
Im not sure have this controller with all the cooling devices work together as I have some in 110V some in 220V. most device I have to press on again once it shut down by timer.

what size of burner would you recommend?

This is the setup now I am imagine and....sorry for the bad draw
any feedback would be appreciate
View attachment 3717849
fun

your idea is right your execution of the plan is wrong

1 sealing up your windows to block light is simple ......go and get a foam bed top (then u just cut it out to fit your window and staple it up ) u can cut out holes if u are venting out the window if u cut the hole to big no biggie u have a towel ...............personally i like cardboard so the brown is in the window then the foam behide it to seal off the light and make it little more private

2 the door light ........make sure the door opens outward (not into the room) then u just use left over foam bedding and make 6 inch wide strips length of the door frame (staple it to the frame then bend it over and stable to frame .....i have made a 3 inch light block .........down on the floor and up top u do the same thing with a 12 inch wide strip cut to the width of the frame ceiling is easy just do the same thing the floor u might need to lay a piece of wood ......just rem to step over the floor one ...........but when u shut the door the foam will press against it sealing it

3 drop the tent as u have sealed the light ......if u want u can keep the frame and the floor mat
reasons
A) to use the burner u need a controller ......the controller senor needs to be bud lvl near the buds
B) u have effectively sealed the room mostly .......so u can not use the whole area for the grow (spread out allowing u greater area to work around the plant allowing them to get bigger making u more
C) u still have the frame up to hang the lights
D) your ac and dehumidifier will be more effective
E) u can place fans farther away getting a softer breeze but covering a larger area

as for what to get there are several choices
1 size of area
2 what gas are u using/ where are u getting supplied from
3 what is the natural lvls of Co2 (if u have a 700 800 ppm u only need 800 700 more to get to your 1500ppm for growing)

the rest depends on u i know of some system that u can use that will trap 98% of the heat made from a burner .....something like that will decrease the amount of energy u need to use for the ac but it requires more room to set up with a higher start up cost

ideally u want to hook into the houses natural supply of gas it is it propane or natural gas .......this will avoid u from needing to buy tanks and keep changing them out ......other wise u are going for a propane burner system so u can use 20 gallon tanks gotten from half dozen different places (i would keep 4 tanks)
 

qballizhere

Well-Known Member
Hi guys,
planing on have some setup upgrade next run.
It will be 10x5 tent in 13x10 room.
12000BTU dual hose A/C
want to add CO2 burner this time.
I have no experience with CO2 in grow room.


what size of burner would you recommend?

This is the setup now I am imagine and....sorry for the bad draw
any feedback would be appreciate
View attachment 3717849
The burner ac and dehu all need to be in the tent. It has been mentioned why use a tent? Why a burner? Why not a co2 tank and controller?
 

ligrow

Well-Known Member
thanks for all you guys feedback
really do appreciate.

The reason I want to use tent. is because this is a rental place. I dont want drill any hole in this house.
I dont have ability to build on either.
I know this is not the efficient way to run it. Just want to know if it work.
If i use mini spilt sealed up the room. still have tent exhaust vent into the room.
maybe another take intake with fan kick it when burner on?
I dont mind a little waste of Co2 here as long as I use burner.
Its easier for me to buy gas here in my location.

have already order autopilot greenhouse master controller. and new tent on the way
 

ligrow

Well-Known Member
fun

your idea is right your execution of the plan is wrong

1 sealing up your windows to block light is simple ......go and get a foam bed top (then u just cut it out to fit your window and staple it up ) u can cut out holes if u are venting out the window if u cut the hole to big no biggie u have a towel ...............personally i like cardboard so the brown is in the window then the foam behide it to seal off the light and make it little more private

2 the door light ........make sure the door opens outward (not into the room) then u just use left over foam bedding and make 6 inch wide strips length of the door frame (staple it to the frame then bend it over and stable to frame .....i have made a 3 inch light block .........down on the floor and up top u do the same thing with a 12 inch wide strip cut to the width of the frame ceiling is easy just do the same thing the floor u might need to lay a piece of wood ......just rem to step over the floor one ...........but when u shut the door the foam will press against it sealing it

3 drop the tent as u have sealed the light ......if u want u can keep the frame and the floor mat
reasons
A) to use the burner u need a controller ......the controller senor needs to be bud lvl near the buds
B) u have effectively sealed the room mostly .......so u can not use the whole area for the grow (spread out allowing u greater area to work around the plant allowing them to get bigger making u more
C) u still have the frame up to hang the lights
D) your ac and dehumidifier will be more effective
E) u can place fans farther away getting a softer breeze but covering a larger area

as for what to get there are several choices
1 size of area
2 what gas are u using/ where are u getting supplied from
3 what is the natural lvls of Co2 (if u have a 700 800 ppm u only need 800 700 more to get to your 1500ppm for growing)

the rest depends on u i know of some system that u can use that will trap 98% of the heat made from a burner .....something like that will decrease the amount of energy u need to use for the ac but it requires more room to set up with a higher start up cost

ideally u want to hook into the houses natural supply of gas it is it propane or natural gas .......this will avoid u from needing to buy tanks and keep changing them out ......other wise u are going for a propane burner system so u can use 20 gallon tanks gotten from half dozen different places (i would keep 4 tanks)
1. can I use some plastic board instead foam bed top. it probably be hard for me to cut. also I dont want drill any hole in this house as I mentioned above its a rental place. Thats why I go with tent. I dont have ability to build grow room either.
maybe still tape up all the window leaks, fill with plastic board on the window to block the light also tape up to make it sealed as possible?

2. Actually Im more worried about air leaks. If plants are in the tent, I dont worry door light. more on how to sealed the room on door side.
that door is open into room.

3. As I mentioned above...I dont want do any construction in this house. I would love to build one, but not in this place.
so I guess I will still only have 10*5 grow area in that room. but all your reason im 100% agree. really hope I can just build one in the future.
but not much ability on woodwork, probably more tools to buy.

I will use burner with gas tank. I know its not best option for tents. but in my situation this should cost less on co2 money. I assumed i can not have room 100% sealed.
so a little co2 leak with gas should be fine? I heard ppl fucked up using Co2 burner in vent grow. He did actually got better result LOL.
but again everything is from what I research and what I heard, no experience with co2 at all. really hope I can get some better idea from you guys, and make sure im on the track. Really do appreciate you clear inputs.

I did buy a controller its on the way. im not completely sure how am I gonna use it except the co2 part. For other outlets heating/cooling/humidlike. My A/C its 220V how do I connect with controller its run 110V? it might also overload if I use 110V one with Dehu run at the same time.
There still another thing I dont understand. When controller shut off the A/C or dehu, those devices do not on again by themselves. I have to turn it on again isn it?
As I know the dehu and A/C dont turn on if I using timer...
 

ligrow

Well-Known Member
Why have the tent at all? Just turn said room into the environment if possible. I've never used a burner, only tanks and solenoids. Sentinel master controller is what I have. Into the CO2 outlet on controller is a timer that doesn't allow the solenoid to activate until 45 min in to 12/12 and shuts it off 30 min before dark. That's a whole other discussion. I've never found it beneficial to run CO2 anything over 1200 and I gradually work up to that 1200 starting more around 8-900 at the beginning of bloom. Do you live in a large city? If so I'm sure you have a grow store who does tank deposits or you can try and find a welding supply store that offers it. I've heard that can get kind of sketchy though when you're running through tanks so quick...

I'd personally light up 10x10 of that room and use the extra 3' on one side for workspace. Run a minisplit in there as it sounds like you can.
Good day,
thanks for the feedback
I hear more suggest around 1500ppm. As I will use burner heard it needs to be set in the range to avoid burner on and off too often.
what else do you hook on your controller? I order a autopilot greenhouse master controller its on the way. not completely sure how do use it to do the best job.
 

ligrow

Well-Known Member
The burner ac and dehu all need to be in the tent. It has been mentioned why use a tent? Why a burner? Why not a co2 tank and controller?
thanks for the feedback
I dont have ability and tools to build grow room. I would totally love to. more space more efficient
rental place also, thats why I go with tent.
I know not efficient at all, just wonder will it work or not...
not much choices for me tho.
Anyway, I would be awesome to have more feedback from you
really do appreciate that
 

ligrow

Well-Known Member
some update for the plan.
I will use 1.4 ton mini spilt.(220v)
8" exhaust with fan with 8" filter place out of the tent(220v)
6" intake lower side of tent ( no fan)
6" intake upper side of tent with fan ( duct around burner, connect with co2 outlet only turn on when burner on) (110v)
image.jpeg
I know it's not the best way the sealed the room with co2. First time make the room sealed. Not sure if I still need to leave room inatke and exhaust holes for winter.
Any advice or feedback are welcome
Thanks in advance
 

justugh

Well-Known Member
some update for the plan.
I will use 1.4 ton mini spilt.(220v)
8" exhaust with fan with 8" filter place out of the tent(220v)
6" intake lower side of tent ( no fan)
6" intake upper side of tent with fan ( duct around burner, connect with co2 outlet only turn on when burner on) (110v)
View attachment 3719343
I know it's not the best way the sealed the room with co2. First time make the room sealed. Not sure if I still need to leave room inatke and exhaust holes for winter.
Any advice or feedback are welcome
Thanks in advance

if u are going to do it that way then the air needs to be changed

1 Co2 is a heavy gas.........if u think of water and oil (Co2 is the water and the oil is oxygen )
A so the way u have the system u want teh Co2 to dump down on the plants .......change your exhuast to a intake .......the itake point is at the bottom and u dump the cool CO2 rich air at the top of the top and flows down filling up the tent

2 close off the intake u have so it pools up better .....the lvl in there gets to point faster and stays longer costing u less gas for the burner and less energy for the AC dehumiidifier

3 make a 2nd venting point from top as your exhaust

4 do not mess with a carbon scubber as the room is sealed up .......no reall need for it .........just get a Ozone gen for the other part of the house (with the door closed u are not going to smell anything it is when u open the door up to go in ) so if u have a fan /filter system with a ozone gen in it u turn that on kicks out the ozone and the smell is gone with in 20 mins
 

ligrow

Well-Known Member
if u are going to do it that way then the air needs to be changed

1 Co2 is a heavy gas.........if u think of water and oil (Co2 is the water and the oil is oxygen )
A so the way u have the system u want teh Co2 to dump down on the plants .......change your exhuast to a intake .......the itake point is at the bottom and u dump the cool CO2 rich air at the top of the top and flows down filling up the tent

2 close off the intake u have so it pools up better .....the lvl in there gets to point faster and stays longer costing u less gas for the burner and less energy for the AC dehumiidifier

3 make a 2nd venting point from top as your exhaust

4 do not mess with a carbon scubber as the room is sealed up .......no reall need for it .........just get a Ozone gen for the other part of the house (with the door closed u are not going to smell anything it is when u open the door up to go in ) so if u have a fan /filter system with a ozone gen in it u turn that on kicks out the ozone and the smell is gone with in 20 mins
Good day
thanks for your advise.
just want to make this more clear for me.
are you talking have intake at the top of the tent. and exhaust from the top on the other end of the tent.
not sure what you mean for the 2 part. close off the intake on lower side?
I thought should always have intake from the bottom .
 

justugh

Well-Known Member
Good day
thanks for your advise.
just want to make this more clear for me.
are you talking have intake at the top of the tent. and exhaust from the top on the other end of the tent.
not sure what you mean for the 2 part. close off the intake on lower side?
I thought should always have intake from the bottom .
with the Co2 in the tent ........the old ways are counter productive

instead of a passive intake like u have in the pic u are going to a powered intake
the powered intake will suck in the cool Co2 enriched air and dump it on top of the plants in the tent .....with the passive vents closed the Co2 will pool up in the tent more effectively (lowering the time the burner needs to burn lowering the energy cost on ac and dehumidifier increase the amount of time the propane tank last)

for Co2 to work well u want a Halo effect so the gas is passing down over the plants (this is what dumping tho the top does) ......some LED lights suck air from the top and blows it down and out tho the sides (if your lights are like that u can dump the cool air on that it passes the gas out it hits the walls does a curling effect .......this will keep the tent cooler and the LED lights last little longer (heat is enemy of electronics )

it is fairly easy ..........the exhaust u have in the pic reverse it (if the carbon filter is on ok better for the plants ....it will clean out the dust and all that other crap in the air before gets dumped into tent better for the plant...dust and all clogs stomas) .........take the ducting and run it in just above the lights leaving u about 18 inches or so for a heat trap chamber.........on the other side of the tent just run a simple exhaust out (some ducting at the very top middle of the tent for the ejection point in the tent .....the intake dump is about 12 inches below )...then a booster fan matching close to the intake CFM rating .....then ducting dumping the hot air near the AC intake so the hot air is cycled tho the system faster keeping the temps in the tent closer to what u want

the senor for the Co2 lvls will be in the tent hung at the top of cola lvl (the gas will get to 1500ppm to that lvl so al of the plant is soaking in a co2 bath) ........as u are not filling up the whole area any more just the inside of the tent the amount of gas u use and time it needs to burn is lessen

is it making sense.....sorry dyslexic so i know my typing comes out odd
 

ligrow

Well-Known Member
with the Co2 in the tent ........the old ways are counter productive

instead of a passive intake like u have in the pic u are going to a powered intake
the powered intake will suck in the cool Co2 enriched air and dump it on top of the plants in the tent .....with the passive vents closed the Co2 will pool up in the tent more effectively (lowering the time the burner needs to burn lowering the energy cost on ac and dehumidifier increase the amount of time the propane tank last)

for Co2 to work well u want a Halo effect so the gas is passing down over the plants (this is what dumping tho the top does) ......some LED lights suck air from the top and blows it down and out tho the sides (if your lights are like that u can dump the cool air on that it passes the gas out it hits the walls does a curling effect .......this will keep the tent cooler and the LED lights last little longer (heat is enemy of electronics )

it is fairly easy ..........the exhaust u have in the pic reverse it (if the carbon filter is on ok better for the plants ....it will clean out the dust and all that other crap in the air before gets dumped into tent better for the plant...dust and all clogs stomas) .........take the ducting and run it in just above the lights leaving u about 18 inches or so for a heat trap chamber.........on the other side of the tent just run a simple exhaust out (some ducting at the very top middle of the tent for the ejection point in the tent .....the intake dump is about 12 inches below )...then a booster fan matching close to the intake CFM rating .....then ducting dumping the hot air near the AC intake so the hot air is cycled tho the system faster keeping the temps in the tent closer to what u want

the senor for the Co2 lvls will be in the tent hung at the top of cola lvl (the gas will get to 1500ppm to that lvl so al of the plant is soaking in a co2 bath) ........as u are not filling up the whole area any more just the inside of the tent the amount of gas u use and time it needs to burn is lessen

is it making sense.....sorry dyslexic so i know my typing comes out odd
Good day Justugh
Appreciate your clear input.
my LED planel have cooling fan blowing like you siad.
Here is my new draw for my setup. is that close to what you mentioned...
image.jpeg

18 inches is above the light? and 12 inches below is below the exhaust point?
not sure I have that much room in between. its just 200 height tent.
for those COB panel. I want to hang it height as possible next time. other wise I have to get down all the way if I need some trimming below scrog net.
so you idea is set exhaust point high, and intake point also on upper side but below the exhaust point
correct?

to equal the cfm for intake and exhaust. what would you recommend for fan size?
I wonder maybe 8inch fan for intake, two 6" fan for exhaust with dimmable that way I can avoid negative pressure suck in tent that reduce grow space.

Do I hook up any other devices on controller?

I will have three panel hanging on the tent its about 16KG for each panel.
im not using any brand of tent ppl recommend in this fourm.
so I want to avoid hang too much on it expect for three panel and one oscillating fan

no worry man, my English is bad....
And again really appreciate for all the detail you share
Happy grow
 
Last edited:

ligrow

Well-Known Member
I am thinking what if put filter on the intake side. and I still have 8" filter not just 6"
also wondering does co2 burner has to set every high?
As i dont want drill any hole here. i wonder maybe find some Iron frame for hanging the burner. (still have distance that manual recommend each side.)
strong intake should suck still suck co2 into the tent with no problem?
This new setup really make me headache day and night...

It would be awesome to have any feedback or input here.
thanks in advance
 
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