Cascadian's Continuing Grow Journal 600 Watt 5X5

Hey Cas, inbox is full my friend

thecannacove said:

Good thing the nematodes are on our side eh?

By the way, check out this thread I just gave it a read to check out what damage people report from RA's. In it they recommend Botaniguard...

"Biological insecticide used to control whitefly, thrips, aphids, and many other soft-bodied insects in greenhouse and field crops. Based on the highly successful fungus, Beauveria bassiana, strain GHA, it controls the most troublesome crop pests – even resistant strains. Because of BotaniGard’s superior formulation, higher spore concentration, high viability and proven performance, it outperforms other Beauveria-containing products. When properly applied, BotaniGard’s insect control can equal or exceed that of chemical insecticides."

I've heard of beauveria bassiana before for root aphids. I would go hard on em with nematodes, botanigard, and Triazicide or Spectracide (veg only). Fuck em up hard Cas. Give em hell! HELL!

Click to expand...

HELL is exactly where I am going to send them...

Nice find, I haven't seen that thread. It didn't link right in your post though, could you post it again? Botaniguard sounds like good stuff, hope it isn't too expensive.

Found one root aphid on a sticky paper that had fallen on the floor in the tent. I put down 3 strips of duct tape to see how bad it is.

Inbox cleared, thanks for the heads up.

Unfortunately it looks like botanigard is hella expensive.

Here's the link again http://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/yellowing-leaves-turning-brown-pics.25232/

Thanks Canna, $100 a quart is freaking crazy! I am really trying to use what I have on hand plus a small budget till this grow is done. Summertime will be eradication time.

Thought I would update the Sleestack X Skunk mainline plant. I really just did this to experiment and see if it was something I would want to do in the future. It does create pretty even main shoots. Here is a grower tip, don't supercrop when you have been drinking lol, I snapped one of the shoots off and it died. It was the uneven/smaller shoot so not a big deal. So it has 7 shoots one being a runt. Anyway here is the plant one month ago (in post #1 of the journal)


Here is the plant yesterday:

The amnesia auto I am using colloidal silver on for feminized pollen.

One of the Anmesias is a slow growing runt that looks sickly. It popped at the same time, same pot size, nutes, soil, etc. If I run out of space as they grow I will probably pull it.



Here it is next to the healthy amnesia auto


HH for feminized pollen making progress.


Starting some decent bud development

Don't blame you on the botanigard, FUCK that sit at that price. Could you imagine if the shit didn't work? Maybe I'll offer the company a treatment comparison. Spinosad in veg room, botanigard in flower room? Perhaps I'll get a sample... maybe.

On that note I inspected several sites (with 60x magnification) in the soil of my chopped pineapple chunk plant and nothing to be found. I thought I would check just because. I know you're going to hate life while these fuckers are sucking on your roots and it got me wanting to make sure once and for all that i don't have these bastards. I'm confident that I do not. At the moment...

Great news on not finding those bastards, and great idea to try to possibly get a sample... I looked on ebay to see if anyone was selling it in small 1 oz quantities but no luck. That is how I bought my Floramite and I am convinced it is why I have not seen a mite or any mite damage in a long time (in veg or flower). Will hit the ladies in the tent with habanero just to make sure for the next week or so.

I am thinking I will move the deformed runt Amnesia Auto into the feminized male room and just use whatever random seeds get created to plant in obvious places where someone will eventually see the plant and probably pull it... I just like the idea of growing weed in the faces of those who don't understand why it should be legalized. Maybe make a pit stop to plant some seeds around the capital in Olympia next time I drive to Portland lol. Overgrow!!

So, the results are in for the flower tent... 3 strips of duct tape had a count of about 130 root aphids, with 5 of those being winged devil aphids. There was also only one fungus gnat, I got a good shot of it to show the difference.

Fungus Gnat:


Root Aphid:


I also saw something really weird, it looks like a RA in a cocoon or something. Too big to be a baby RA... I have no idea?

For some reason I can't view whole image, each one is chopped in half it seems. Either way, that sucks ass man :-/

Also even though I can only see half of each picture, what I CAN see from that last picture is mighty fucked up lol

oh shit man...root aphids suck ass. they are probably the worst. I hate to tell you this but neem extracts like azamax/guard or pyrethrin just won't cut it man, don't even waste your money.

been there done that

if you are not too far into flower orthene works best.

met 52 is supposed to be the best biologiacal control for them but needs to be mixed into the soil when planting...they do have a liquid form of it now but I don't know much about it.

I did have some success with scanmask nematodes when I used it.

if you've got fliers you've big problems bro....especially if you have any aspirations of being perpetual.

It has taken me a year to get the fuckers under control. and they are still present just in low enough numbers that they aren't messing anything up now.

I also had some success with sns209. aphids aren't mentioned as target species but it is systemic and the little buggers don't like it. You wanna quit using it around two weeks before chop.

anyways...good luck bro. I'll help anyway I can on this.

Hey canna, I uploaded the images to the RIU server so they should be clickable. Let me know if you can't see them still and I will fix them. Thanks man.

joe macclennan said:

oh shit man...root aphids suck ass. they are probably the worst. I hate to tell you this but neem extracts like azamax/guard or pyrethrin just won't cut it man, don't even waste your money.

been there done that

if you are not too far into flower orthene works best.

met 52 is supposed to be the best biologiacal control for them but needs to be mixed into the soil when planting...they do have a liquid form of it now but I don't know much about it.

I did have some success with scanmask nematodes when I used it.

if you've got fliers you've big problems bro....especially if you have any aspirations of being perpetual.

It has taken me a year to get the fuckers under control. and they are still present just in low enough numbers that they aren't messing anything up now.

I also had some success with sns209. aphids aren't mentioned as target species but it is systemic and the little buggers don't like it. You wanna quit using it around two weeks before chop.

anyways...good luck bro. I'll help anyway I can on this.

Click to expand...

Thanks Joe, I have had them since last November on my last grow. I discovered them about week 4 of flower, at that time I caught hundreds of them on traps but never saw a single flyer. I have flyers in veg and flower, I know this means I have a full blown infestation. I am almost at week 3 of flower today.

Last time I did a pyrethrin, rosemary oil, and soap dunk and it held them back until harvest. This time it is obviously earlier and there are flyers so you are right pyrethrin may not be the ticket.

Which Orthene product is it? I assume it the one that is 97.4% Acephate?

Have you heard of imidacloprid being successful? I read that I can use it along with Nematodes. I am leaning strongly toward the Nematode route with a supplemental that will not kill them.

I am not perpetual and no current plans for it. This will be my last indoor grow until September. My plan is to take clones of all strains I want to keep with fresh soil etc and keep them upstairs as they root away from the grow rooms then just plant the mothers outdoors and start the process of removing all soil pots etc from the basement and garage to do some bombing and bleaching. I really hope these things don't hibernate for long because there are plenty of places for them to hide in my basement.

Sorry to hear you still have them, but good to hear you have them under control. I think that may be the best I can hope for as well.

Any tips or advice you have pointing me in the right direction would be much appreciated.

yes the 97% orthene

@ three weeks into flower I wouldn't use it tho. first week or two maybe.

@ this point i'd try adding 209 everytime you water. it'll help some. You could also add some scanmask nematodes if you want. they'll help some too. Neither will get rid of them though. I'd put LOTS of sticky traps out if I were you this is the most effective way to keep the fliers contained. like 3-4 traps per 5 gallon bucket or so if that's what you are using. I also used gnatrol for a while as I had fungus gnats too when the aphids were @ their peak infestation. The gnatrol seemed to beat them back temporarily.

as far as imidacloprid...yes I used it too. and it was pretty effective @ first. then they developed resistance to it and it was wholly ineffective after that. I'm considering trying it again since it's been well over 9 months since i've used it.

anyways good luck. if you are shutting down for the summer you should be able to get rid of them in your room.

Thanks, I decided not use it at 3 weeks too. Good to know you think the same, and thanks for the warning. I just got back from the hydro store, couldn't remember if it was 209, 203 or what. I bought the SNS 203, it does say it kills root aphids. I am going to add some rosemary oil and a small amount of soap to the dunk as well for a wetting agent. Then my plan is to introduce nematodes in about 5-7 days. I will definitely be putting up more sticky traps and making sure I have lots of duct tape adhesive side up on the floor. Might even make a trap with a blanket of duct tape with some apple cider vinegar in the middle.

Really appreciate your help!

yes, the 203 is supposed to kill them and I think it does a bit but it is not systemic like the 209. I used the 203 for over six months with little effect. Stuffs expensive too.

Like I said ra arent' listed on the 209 as a target species but it really seemed like they didn't' like it and wouldn't feed as much. I reccomend adding 209 every time you water. I add it directly to my res.

Yeah, I grabbed the 209 and the hydro store owner said, no you want the 203... I second guessed myself, and didn't want to argue much. I looked at the labels and they seem somewhat similar, the 203 has clove oil and the 209 has an additional rosemary extract as well as a different acid. I added 7 TBS of a strong homemade rosemary oil to the mix as well as 1 oz of soap to about 11-12 gallons of water. I tried to follow the directions to get the dunk water to 70 degrees but it was tough to do, I think I got it to about 55-60 degrees by boiling water in a large crab pot and adding it to the dunk res. De-Chlorinated water was also recommended on the label but I only let the water off gas for about 2 hours.

Hoping it will knock them back some. I put down some fresh tape so should be able to get read on any impact tomorrow evening.

Damn, that was a lot of work! I hope it helps, will post some pics tomorrow... Up next Nematodes...

oh I also smeared some vaseline around the rim of the buckets. this'll catch any of the little buggers trying to escape after you treat with the sns. even in nymph stage they are highly mobile and will try to leave

Looks like you're staying vigilant friend. I sure hope you can knock them back and get out of the flyer stage.

Hey Cas, inbox is full bro