Bridgelux Vero 29 LED Test
- Thread starter PICOGRAV
- Start date
PICOGRAV
Well-Known Member
So I have noticed that the oldest calyx's are now starting to swell up, I didn't know what to think about this, so I did some research and apparently they start to swell oldest to youngest and this is where the bulk of the THC is produced? Anyway some shots of the plant water and the latest from this morning before they went to sleep.
The resin smells like nuts and oranges.
The resin smells like nuts and oranges.
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
Calyxes are cribs (seed pods). They swell, whether pollinated or not. The crystals on the surface are what gets us high
PICOGRAV
Well-Known Member
When I first saw them last night, getting big, I freaked out and thought all my buds where seeded. I quickly picked one off and dissected it and found what resembled a tiny tiny green seed. I spent about 3 hours looking into if this meant they had germinated or not, it took me awhile to reassure myself it was fine but I still thought what if. It did provoke me to discover more about flower development in general.
Thanks Pet.
PICOGRAV
Well-Known Member
So just the latest update, I am going to be stopping the Humic Acid and Micro Bactria and now just adding the Bloom Nutes. They will also be getting watered 3 times per day;
First water, 1/2 a liter ambient water with 1/4 teaspoon of the Tiger Bloom ( 2 - 8 - 4 ) each plant, at the begging of lights on.
Second water is, 1 liter of hot tap water with 1/8 teaspoon of the Tiger Bloom split between the three plants, adjusting the amount each gets based on size and relative top soil moisture, this is done about 2 hours after lights on.
Finally, 3/4 liter of hot tap water with 1/8 teaspoon of Tiger Bloom Split equal between the plants, just before lights out.
I want to test the Hot Water treatment for a future grow plan. Here are the latest Bud pictures from this morning:
If anyone thinks the hot water is a very bad idea, please let me know!
First water, 1/2 a liter ambient water with 1/4 teaspoon of the Tiger Bloom ( 2 - 8 - 4 ) each plant, at the begging of lights on.
Second water is, 1 liter of hot tap water with 1/8 teaspoon of the Tiger Bloom split between the three plants, adjusting the amount each gets based on size and relative top soil moisture, this is done about 2 hours after lights on.
Finally, 3/4 liter of hot tap water with 1/8 teaspoon of Tiger Bloom Split equal between the plants, just before lights out.
I want to test the Hot Water treatment for a future grow plan. Here are the latest Bud pictures from this morning:
If anyone thinks the hot water is a very bad idea, please let me know!
Mechmike
Well-Known Member
I don't think hot water is as good as cold water for roots. Cold water holds more dissolved oxygen than warm water does. In hydro ~68f is recommended because of the DO. Roots need oxygen and oxygenated water provides that. To take it further I also add ~1tsp/gal of 29% H2O2. If you water with warm water adding H2O2 to your nute mix may be very helpful.
PSUAGRO.
Well-Known Member
Warm tap water also has a much higher TDS level than cold.........a cold root zone will stunt your plants though. Adding H2O2 will destroy all the beni bacs that you just added so keep that in mind Pico, also humic acid is useless without bacteria. That's why hydro guys run only fulvic acid(same source but a smaller molecular level===penetrate the cell walls without the aid of bacteria)
Girls look healthy pico.......keep it up
Girls look healthy pico.......keep it up
Mechmike
Well-Known Member
I run a sterile res in my hydro but I don't use H2O2 to keep it bacteria free because it doesn't work well enough as a sterilizer. Be judicious with the H2O2 if you depend on bennies because at high concentrations it will kill bacteria. A weak concentration won't kill bacteria. In fact, it helps them thrive because of the added free oxygen molecule. H2O2 is classified as an oxidizer and it is in anything but a weak solution. As a very weak solution it acts as an added oxygen source. If you're worried, just don't use H2O2. Cold water, as in <50f, can slow root growth. 68f is not cold and if you look up temperature and dissolved oxygen levels in water you will find that cool water holds lots more DO that warm does.
Oh, and DO can't be measured as TDS since oxygen is not a dissolved solid. There are DO meters but I'm to cheap to buy one. I miss the lab where I had access to some great toys like that.
Oh, and DO can't be measured as TDS since oxygen is not a dissolved solid. There are DO meters but I'm to cheap to buy one. I miss the lab where I had access to some great toys like that.
PICOGRAV
Well-Known Member
Now that I have stopped adding the bacteria to the soil, how long do you think it will be lingering around for? I suppose the warmer soil temp will have a beneficial effect in regard to that bacteria staying around for the finally?
So a slight contradiction there from you two, I am not sure I will experiment with the H2O2 just yet, I dont know what the plants would work better with, really good bacteria or high levels of oxygen? From the information you guys have given me, it seems like it is more difficult to provide the plant with good bacteria at beneficial levels VS an abundance of oxygen. I like the idea if these little photo-active cells making their way up into the leaves and helping with the canopy growth but on the other hand, with out healthy roots nothing will grow!
PSUAGRO.
Well-Known Member
^^^this is also true.......I just wouldn't chance it at all in a organic "living soil",........ If your using synthetics ferts, oxidizers have a definite benefit. Wanna be clear that I'm also not recommending warm tap water due to the possibility of high TDS levels^^^ as I stated above
PICOGRAV
Well-Known Member
The TDS level you are talking about makes an interesting point but to give you some more insight into how I was watering before. I started off in the begging using cold tap water and I would fill the three Bubba Gump Shrimp cups (1/2 liter) up all the way the night before and use the water in the morning. I would only mix nutes just before using the water. When they started getting bigger I would fill the 1 liter glass beaker up with the hottest water I could get out of the tap and let it cool for a few hours and then that would be the second water. Now I have switched about 2 weeks ago and I am only using hot tap water to fill the Bubba Gumps the night before and then use them the next day, they sit for about 24 hours.
These TDS do you think they would be coming out of the water when it cools? Even so, if I was starting with cooler water and letting it warm, there should be a difference then starting with hot water and letting it cool?
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
Let's think through what DISSOLVED SOLIDS means?
These are either naturally occurring and/or added at the water treatment plant to raise the pH of water traveling through hundreds of miles of water pipes to reach your faucet
Why would heat make them disappear?
Short answer- it does not
What hot water can do is release the chlorine, which is injected/mixed at the water treatment plant as a gas to kill bugs/bacteria
However, if you put the room temp tap water into an open container ~ 12 hours, the chlorine will escape into the air
If heat released dissolved solids we would not need ROs to purify water
These are either naturally occurring and/or added at the water treatment plant to raise the pH of water traveling through hundreds of miles of water pipes to reach your faucet
Why would heat make them disappear?
Short answer- it does not
What hot water can do is release the chlorine, which is injected/mixed at the water treatment plant as a gas to kill bugs/bacteria
However, if you put the room temp tap water into an open container ~ 12 hours, the chlorine will escape into the air
If heat released dissolved solids we would not need ROs to purify water
Mechmike
Well-Known Member
I can't tell you why your meter reads a higher TDS on hot water than on cold. Maybe, as with PH meters, temperature of the solution affects the meter reading. Or...maybe it's the chlorine and fluoride evaporating overnight.
PICOGRAV
Well-Known Member
I think it would be helpful to look into what my municipal water supply consists of and how they treat it. Even in the first few weeks of growing these ladys I thought to myself, I hope I have some good water coming out of my taps. Somehow I like the idea of using the tap water, maybe it has some of those special trace elements that the plant does not need to grow but if they are there it helps produce compounds and chemicals more easily?
I just check on them, and I have to say there seems to be a lot more fulling in since this morning! They are just waking up from the dark period, I have it flipped so my night is their day, even know Pet told me to do the opposite lol
I just check on them, and I have to say there seems to be a lot more fulling in since this morning! They are just waking up from the dark period, I have it flipped so my night is their day, even know Pet told me to do the opposite lol
PICOGRAV
Well-Known Member
I am trying to develop a closed loop system in my head at the moment, very complex yet simple, but I will elaborate on it soon.
FranJan
Well-Known Member
Bad mojo chloramine is but for growers it's supposedly pretty simple to get rid of. I think the recipe for removing it is 1 to 2 tablespoons of compost per 5 gallons, put it in a nylon stocking for the hydro crowd, and agitate. It will dissipate but it takes weeks and trace amounts are probably still in it. My state refuses to use it but they do use a fuck ton of chlorine. I grew up with a pool and I use a pool kit to test for chlorine/ph levels and I'm surprised how much is in NY's drinking water.
Sadly though it ain't kosher cause it's got lil crustaceans in it
.
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
A quality mineral/spring water is a better solution. No telling what crap ass minerals the municipality buys (low bidder). Don't forget to adjust pH
