BHO to Shatter ?

Hello everyone. First off I'm new to the concentrates family. I have made over an oz of bho. looks and smells great. Golden in color and waxy consistancy. I've noticed that it is hard on the lungs. Is that normal?

If so is there any way I can process it further into shatter and is it smoother?
 
Yes blew into pyrex sitting in 120 deg water bath until bubbles stopped, scraped to middle. raised water temp to 160 deg and whipped for about 45 mins until started to thicken then took off water bath and alowed to cool.
 

Fadedawg

Well-Known Member
Hello everyone. First off I'm new to the concentrates family. I have made over an oz of bho. looks and smells great. Golden in color and waxy consistancy. I've noticed that it is hard on the lungs. Is that normal?

If so is there any way I can process it further into shatter and is it smoother?
It is easier on the lungs if you winterize it to remove the plant waxes.

Vacuum purging in a thin film is the easiest way I've found to get shatter. In the case of winterizing, it would be cold boiling off the alcohol.
 

WarMachine

Well-Known Member
What exactly is winterizing it? I notice people mention that and/or adding grain alcohol to the BHO but why would one do this? Also does it have to be a high percentage alcohol because where I'm from they don't sell Everclear, just 151 bacardi (as far as a high percentage alcohol). Unless I could add ISO instead of grain alcohol to achieve shatter?
 

Twitch

Well-Known Member
you can use 99 iso but if you can order everclear do it. we do it to pull out the fats and lipids and waxes out of the bho that the butane pulls out, and you dont use alcohol from the get go because it will pull out chlorophyll and other things that the butane wont pull out. so a combo of the 2 gets you some very excellent stuff
 

WarMachine

Well-Known Member
you can use 99 iso but if you can order everclear do it. we do it to pull out the fats and lipids and waxes out of the bho that the butane pulls out, and you dont use alcohol from the get go because it will pull out chlorophyll and other things that the butane wont pull out. so a combo of the 2 gets you some very excellent stuff
Unfortunatly I'm in California so the highest proof alcohol would be 151 Bacardi. I don't really think/know any sites where I can order Everclear :-/ Would 91% ISO work? Or to much water? I can order 99% ISO from Amazon for around $7.00 for a 12oz bottle, kinda expensive so would I need a lot? So basically after I make my BHO, I purge it, then add the alcohol and put it in the freezer? Do I then do the purging of the frozen result? Thanks for the help.
 
I would also like to know the answer to that question. I don't have a vaccum pump and would like to know the best way to process what i have ( about an oz 29 grams ) right now the color is a dull golden color It's made from all synex bud so I would like it to turn out good.
 

WarMachine

Well-Known Member
So I found a store that sells Everclear but only the 151 proof (California law), would that work out?
 

Fadedawg

Well-Known Member
Unfortunatly I'm in California so the highest proof alcohol would be 151 Bacardi. I don't really think/know any sites where I can order Everclear :-/ Would 91% ISO work? Or to much water? I can order 99% ISO from Amazon for around $7.00 for a 12oz bottle, kinda expensive so would I need a lot? So basically after I make my BHO, I purge it, then add the alcohol and put it in the freezer? Do I then do the purging of the frozen result? Thanks for the help.
http://www.winechateau.com/ will ship 190 proof to you.
 

WarMachine

Well-Known Member
Thanks Fadedawg! I'll try to order some ASAP! Can you explain to me what I am supposed to do? Were the steps I posted the correct way of doing it? Also what exactly is winterizing? Pro's/Con's of it basically?
 

Sirdabsalot462

Well-Known Member
Hello guys, first time poster...

Winterization is the process of removing plant fats, waxes and lipids, with the use of a secondary solvent, ideally with pure ethanol, or PGA, pure grain alcohol.

The bho is initially made as per usual, with a standard column extraction, most commonly done with the closed loop system, allowing the material to” soak” for an extended time frame, to expose the material to the solvent for a longer time, extracting all the goodies.

However with the extended exposure to the initial solvent (butane) happens to extract more waxes, fats and lipids and other impurities found in the plant matter.

The secondary solvent (ethanol, ever clear) is added to the extracted bho and dissolves into liquid form. The mistype is then placed in the freezer for a period of 48 hours, during which the said waxes, fats etc coagulate into a cloudy white clump in the jar.

After 48 hours the mixture is then poured through a coffee filter to collect the white clump, filtering takes some time, don't force filter by any means, just let it do it's thing.

Contingent upon the amount of oil, alcohol just needs to be evaporated away, preferably with heat, as the oleoresin will have a tendency to not reach the brittle state of shatter, unless the oil is exposed to temps in relation to their melting point.

What we have created is called an Absolute Amber, should be rock-hard glass with a prominent clarity, from removing plant waxes.

Some folks vac-purge their winterized bho, personally, unless the yield is huge, I see no practicality in vac purging.

Hope this helps, loving RIU so far..peace.
 

Sirdabsalot462

Well-Known Member
Hello guys, first time poster...

Winterization is the process of removing plant fats, waxes and lipids, with the use of a secondary solvent, ideally with pure ethanol, or PGA, pure grain alcohol.

The bho is initially made as per usual, with a standard column extraction, or most commonly done with the closed loop system, allowing the material to” soak” for an extended time frame, to expose the material to the solvent for a longer time, extracting all the goodies.

However with the extended exposure to the initial solvent (butane) happens to extract more waxes, fats and lipids and other impurities found in the plant matter.

The secondary solvent (ethanol, ever clear) is added to the extracted bho and dissolves into liquid form. The mixture is then placed in the freezer for a period of 48 hours, during which the said waxes, fats etc coagulate into a cloudy white clump in the jar.

After 48 hours the mixture is then poured through a coffee filter to collect the white clump, filtering takes some time, don't force filter by any means, just let it do it's thing.

Contingent upon the amount of oil, alcohol just needs to be evaporated away, preferably with heat, as the oleoresin will have a tendency to not reach the brittle state of shatter, unless the oil is exposed to temps in relation to their melting point.

What we have created is called an Absolute Amber, should be rock-hard glass with a prominent clarity, from removing plant waxes.

Some folks vac-purge their winterized bho, personally, unless the yield is huge, I see no practicality in vac purging.

Hope this helps, loving RIU so far..peace.
 

Fadedawg

Well-Known Member
What SDL said. Winterizing is extracting a raw oleoresin or concrete using a non polar solvent, and then redissolving it in a polar solvent before dropping the temperature to cause the non polar waxes to precipitate out, so that they can be removed by filtration.

Vacuum purging is faster than purging without, and allows you to make some products not possible without. You can make perfectly good shatter without a vacuum, so it isn't a requirement, but vacuum purging in thin films at 115F is how I prefer to do it.
 

Guzias1

Well-Known Member
winterized running man! getting in the mood for TOUGH MUDDER.

this chips away, and is shatterful.. no vac.

was the left overs hanging out in ultra thin layers on my pyrex.



im sure it crackles a tad, but hell, its still pretty damn good, og/xj13/blackberry

 

d3dm4n

Member
What SDL said. Winterizing is extracting a raw oleoresin or concrete using a non polar solvent, and then redissolving it in a polar solvent before dropping the temperature to cause the non polar waxes to precipitate out, so that they can be removed by filtration.

Vacuum purging is faster than purging without, and allows you to make some products not possible without. You can make perfectly good shatter without a vacuum, so it isn't a requirement, but vacuum purging in thin films at 115F is how I prefer to do it.
^ to decipher this code i used google
 
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