(best answer gets +rep) best way to clone

tkufoS

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Cloning with Subcool ( Redundant Explanation with Pictures)
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Cloning with Subcool ( Redundant Explanation with Pictures)

Jill and I have both done cloning threads but I wanted to do an extended one with pictures of every aspect so you guys not as skilled may gain some knowledge from the ridiculously low tech way I take clones. We get full roots in 5-10 days according to strain some are faster and some are slower.

I have used much more complicated methods but for my simple soil garden this works well for me. I started using Rapid Rooters about a year ago and IMO there is no better method, prior to this I used clear small cups with soil and perlite.


Now before we get into the work lets do some reviewing:
I run three area a small vegetive area that uses a 400 and a cfl.
I have a combo Veg/bud area with a 1k MH
We run a 2000 watt 11x6 bud room

The veg room grows up while the bud room makes meds.

As the main bud room gets close to finishing its time to take clones from the vegging plants prior to flipping there light cycle to 12/12
So as you can see in the pictures the bud room is done with plants in there final stages of maturation. Shown are Vortex and Tinybomb. A glance into the main veg area shows large plants close to 18” already topped pre trained and ready for 12/12 but before we do this I have to take cuttings. We do not keep moms! Yes that’s right I have kept al my moms alive for over 6 years without ever keeping a permanent momma plant.
You think cloning is important now? You bet on it it’s the key to mastering the art of Fine cannabis production.

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#2
02-12-2008, 02:02 PM
subcool

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Rooting
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A knowledge of the internal structure of the stem is helpful in understanding the origin of adventitious roots.

The development of adventitious roots can be broken down into three stages: (1) the initiation of meristematic cells located just outside and between the vascular bundles (the root initials), (2) the differentiation of these meristematic cells into root primordia, and (3) the emergence and growth of new roots by rupturing old stem tissue and establishing vascular connections with the shoot.

As the root initials divide, the groups of cells take on the appearance of a small root tip. A vascular system forms with the adjacent vascular bundles and the root continues to grow outward through the cortex until the tip emerges from the epidermis of the stem. Initiation of root growth usually begins within a week and young roots appear within four weeks. Often an irregular mass of white cells, termed callus tissue, will form on the surface of the stem adjacent to the areas of root initiation. This tissue has no influence on root formation. However, it is a form of regenerative tissue and is a sign that conditions are favorable for root initiation.

The physiological basis for root initiation is well understood and allows many advantageous modifications of rooting systems. Natural plant growth substances such as auxins, cytokinins, and gibberellins are certainly responsible for the control of root initiation and the rate of root formation. Auxins are considered the most influential. Auxins and other growth substances are involved in the control of virtually all plant processes: stem growth, root formation, lateral bud inhibition, floral maturation, fruit development, and determination of sex. Great care is exercised in application of artificial growth substances so that detrimental conflicting reactions in addition to rooting do not occur. Auxins seem to affect most related plant species in the same way, but the mechanism of this action is not yet fully understood.

Many synthetic compounds have been shown to have auxin activity and are commercially available, such as napthaleneacetic acid (NAA), indolebutyric acid (IBA), and 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (2,4 DPA), but only indoleacetic acid has been isolated from plants. Naturally occurring auxin is formed mainly in the apical shoot men stem and young leaves. It moves downward after its formation at the growing shoot tip, but massive concentrations of auxins in rooting solutions will force travel up the vascular tissue. Knowledge of the physiology of auxins has led to practical applications in rooting cuttings. It was shown originally by Went and later by Thimann and Went that auxins promote adventitious root formation in stem cuttings. Since application of natural or synthetic auxin seems to stimulate adventitious root formation in many plants, it is assumed that auxin levels are associated with the formation of root initials. Further research by Warmke and Warmke (1950) suggested that the levels of auxin may determine whether adventitious roots or shoots are formed, with high auxin levels promoting root growth and low levels favoring shoots.

Cytokinins are chemical compounds that stimulate cell growth. In stem cuttings, cytokinins suppress root growth and stimulate bud growth. This is the opposite of the reaction caused by auxins, suggesting that a natural balance of the two may be responsible for regulating nor mal plant growth. Skoog discusses the use of solutions of equal concentrations of auxins and cytokinins to pro mote the growth of undifferentiated callus tissues. This may provide a handy source of undifferentiated material for cellular cloning.

Although Cannabis cuttings and layers root easily, variations in rootability exist and old stems may resist rooting. Selection of rooting material is highly important. Young, firm, vegetative shoots, 3 to 7 millimeters (1/8 to ¼ inch) in diameter, root most easily. Weak, unhealthy plants are avoided, along with large woody branches and reproductive tissues, since these are slower to root. Stems of high carbohydrate content root most easily. Firmness is a sign of high carbohydrate levels in stems but may be con fused with older woody tissue. An accurate method of determining the carbohydrate content of cuttings is the iodine starch test. The freshly cut ends of a bundle of cuttings are immersed in a weak solution of iodine in potassium iodide. Cuttings containing the highest starch content stain the darkest; the samples are rinsed and sorted accordingly. High nitrogen content cuttings seem to root more poorly than cuttings with medium to low nitrogen content. Therefore, young, rapidly-growing stems of high nitrogen and low carbohydrate content root less well than slightly older cuttings. For rooting, sections are selected that have ceased elongating and are beginning radial growth. Staminate plants have higher average levels of carbohydrates than pistillate plants, while pistillate plants exhibit higher nitrogen levels. It is unknown whether sex influences rooting, but cuttings from vegetative tissue are taken just after sex determination while stems are still young. For rooting cloning stock or parental plants, the favorable balance (low nitrogen-to-high carbohydrate) is achieved in several ways:

1 - Reduction of the nitrogen supply will slow shoot growth and allow time for carbohydrates to accumulate. This can be accomplished by leaching (rinsing the soil with large amounts of fresh water), withholding nitrogenous fertilizer, and allowing stock plants to grow in full sun light. Crowding of roots reduces excessive vegetative growth and allows for carbohydrate accumulation.

2 - Portions of the plant that are most likely to root are selected. Lower branches that have ceased lateral growth and begun to accumulate starch are the best. The carbohydrate-to-nitrogen ratio rises as you move away from the tip of the limb, so cuttings are not made too short.

3 - Etiolation is the growth of stem tissue in total darkness to increase the possibility of root initiation. Starch levels drop, strengthening tissues and fibers begin to soften, cell wall thickness decreases, vascular tissue is diminished, auxin levels rise, and undifferentiated tissue begins to form. These conditions are very conducive to the initiation of root growth. If the light cycle can be con trolled, whole plants can be subjected to etiolation, but usually single limbs are selected for cloning and wrapped for several inches just above the area where the cutting will be taken. This is done two weeks prior to rooting. The etiolated end may then be unwrapped and inserted into the rooting medium. Various methods of layers and cuttings rooted below soil level rely in part on the effects of etiolation.

4 - Girdling a stem by cutting the phloem with a knife or crushing it with a twisted wire may block the downward mobility of carbohydrates and auxin and rooting cofactors, raising the concentration of these valuable components of root initiation above the girdle.

From Clarke on Rooting

Ok so lets get started. I clean my scissors well and lay out all my materials.
I wet my rapid rooters well and start by taking some lowers from each plant in veg.

I use a cheap product to clone with( Vita Root) but any of the ones on the market work well even take root powder.

Its very important to remove all but top leaves and if there to large I even trim these back.

Make sure you cut the clone and a sharp angle like a spear. I do not scrape my clones stems but many people do.

I use the pen to make a hole in the rooter and hold it open as I pull out the pen. I gently find the hole and slide the cutting down never forcing the cut.
So now we have a labeled clone in a moist rooter this goes into the clone box at 75 degrees.
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#3
02-12-2008, 02:04 PM
subcool

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Chop M up
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Keep repeating these steps until all the plants on the list are checked off, if a plants small still its marked as ‘In Veg” and will be cloned later when it’s a larger plant.

If you have any questions post them up.
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#4
02-12-2008, 02:07 PM
subcool

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Success
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I just wanted you guys to see that this ghetto tech method actually works very well.
Its been 7 days since I placed them in the box.

Best temps are between 75-80
If you don't have a thermometer then you don't know your temps.
Do Not guess!!
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#5
02-12-2008, 02:10 PM
edux10

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Mr. Ganja

 

SmokeyMcSmokester

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AlwaysFUBAR

Well-Known Member
I use the Take Root my self and have had great success. What I do is take cuttings from the lower branches of the mother. I come back from the tip of the branch about three nodes and cut at a 45 degree angle. After taking the cutting I scrap a little of the stem about 1/4 inch from the bottom on one side to expose the inners of the stem. Cut the fan leaves in 1/2 so the the cutting puts all growth in rooting and not growing. Aply the Take Root about a 1/2 from bottom( note: make sure that the cut end stays in water as much as possible only before the Take Root is aplied). I use rockwool that is presoaked to be damp but not dripping of water or a dixie cut with soil that is almost a mud consisticy. Place cutting in the rockwool or dixie cup so that about a 1/2 inch is submerged. Keep moist in a humity dome till you see roots then transplant. Cloning comlete...........
 
C

chitownsmoking

Guest
simpley put. cut on a slight angle, make like 3 lil slits at the bottom of the stem this helps roots to form faster, dip in clone gel, then put in rockwool cube, then put it into a cloner. a clone is basicly a container with a few net pots some water and an airstone and pump, keep humidity high, and have a small flouro on at all times untill they root. in 2 weeks or so you should see lil roots. also cut the tips of the leaves this helps to
 

That 5hit

Well-Known Member
if you have powder make a cup of water sprinkle some powder in it make sure it is disoved then stick your cutting in the cup for 3 days adding plain water each time untill you see roots works 100% of the time
same with gel but i perfer powder i use a 1tsp to a 1cup of water but you cant go wrong make a past if you want


all so a cutting will root in plain water just give it time .and that method is almost 100%
most grower be in to much of a rush
 

Reeny

Well-Known Member
All this advice is wonderful and valid. I would like to add the importance of a heating pad under your clones. I find it speeds up the rooting process greatly.

Some strains seem to clone easier than others.

My method is simple. I take the clipping of the plant and then cut it again while submerged in water. I then take the clipping and put it in my cloning compound (I use Hormex) for one minute. I then place the clone in rapid rooters. I place them in my cloning area with a humitity dome and a heating bad under them. I use a lizard type heating pad that cost less than $20.

In 10 days or so I see roots coming thru the rapid rooters and I then transplant into my soil medium.

Hope this helps.
 
rooting powder speeds the process up, but none of this stuff is necessary. you can cut off a 4 inch part of the mother and drop it directly into a coffee mug full of water straight out of the tap, and they will still root.

marijuana is a rediculously hardy plant. it is worth it to use rooting hormone and peat pots and humidity domes etc because it speeds up the process, but none of it is required. i have a 5$ cloning kit from a chain hardware store and a 4$ bottle of rooting hormone from the same place, and it takes 8 or 9 days for roots to start emerging from the peat pots. ive also just dropped fresh cuttings in water, and that took a bit over two weeks, and the roots werent as developed, but all of those plants lived and were successfully flowered.

the point is, dont overthink it. its hard to not have success with cloning
 

The Warlord

Well-Known Member
I just take big clones 6-8 inches following proper technique with olivias gel and stick em in a plastic cup of fox farmsdirt and bam I got roots. Easy. Even early in flower they root pretty well.
 

Phatoptimo

Member
Best answer is do reaserch and find out for yourself (this info is everywhere). Do you need me to get a spoon to feed your mouth too. Cloning is a basic growing skill. You can do it. I have faith and so do u! *Fred Dirst* "Gotta have faith"!!!
 
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