Mechmike
Well-Known Member
The claims are true! The Vero 18 3500k has done very well for me.
...All Things Vero...
- Thread starter AquariusPanta
- Start date
AquariusPanta
Well-Known Member
I haven't quite made it to the point of having more than 4x COBs running at once but I like your POV. I will have to read into it, as I don't like paying for pricey drivers.
Gram per PAR watt or Gram per PAR + Heat watt?
I won't know until a few weeks from now. I'll let you know though.
This is my first go about with COBs
.
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
Exactly !
drivers with dimming capabilities ,you meant ,I suppose ...
Yes .
Another thing decreasing the power ,while distance remains same
and another thing increasing distance ,keeping the power at same level .
Totally different,in fact ...
One of those two options , is subject to a thing called Inverse Square Law ...
If you wish to increase the distane (raise the light ) ,
then the output power should increase .
If the new distance between light source and canopy is 2x the previous one ,
radiant power should be increasing by a 4x figure .
You lower the light towards plants ?
(Seedlings -early vegging at tree style ,all cycle at SOG & SCROG )
You dim down.
(or have multiple non-dimmable ,low driven COBS =most efficient way ,but most expensive and needs space )
You increase the distance ?
(mid veg to early flowering at tree style )
You increase the driving current ....
That's another reason ,why dimming is needed,
or at least being an advantage in such situations ...
Cheers.
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stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
Main target is to keep a minimal distance between plant tops. and light source(s) { COB array(s) )
Still ,as driving current increases ,so increases the minimal distance allowance.
You can not have plant tops 10 ,20,30 or even 40 cm ,directly under two Vero 29 at 2.1 A .
Minimal distance has to be greater ...
Thus ,lower driving allows for shorter distances ...
Higher driving ,requires greater distances .
Still ,as driving current increases ,so increases the minimal distance allowance.
You can not have plant tops 10 ,20,30 or even 40 cm ,directly under two Vero 29 at 2.1 A .
Minimal distance has to be greater ...
Thus ,lower driving allows for shorter distances ...
Higher driving ,requires greater distances .
AquariusPanta
Well-Known Member
A splendid explantation!
I have one of my Vero 18 COBs about 4 inches (~10 cm) away from one of the tops of my lady. Luckily it's indirect, with the candle beam around 25cm from any contact. I'm running the V18 at ~1050mA.
In short, I ran out of vertical space and had to use some string to spread the tall tops from the shorter ones.
Scornfulheal
Active Member
How do I incorporate a dimmer into the >4 CXA string using AC/DC mains PSU with individual DC/DC bucks?
uzerneims
Well-Known Member
RIU IS HIGHSCHOOL
But for that we have:
@SupraSPL thread
DiY LEDs - How to Power Them
About those cobs - i think i'm going for 3500k 80cri.
Scornfulheal
Active Member
http://www.ledsupply.com/led-drivers/wired-buckpuck-700ma-constant-current-led-driver-with-potentiometer
Maybe this?
I'm starting to think 6x Vero 18s may be a bit costly to startup including heatsinks and drivers. We'll see how the BOM turns out. I may have to return the Arctics because @ $10/Vero 18 thats pricey for a heatsink. Would I be better off ordering 2 lengths of sinks from heatsinkusa and putting 3 chips on each?
Maybe this?
I'm starting to think 6x Vero 18s may be a bit costly to startup including heatsinks and drivers. We'll see how the BOM turns out. I may have to return the Arctics because @ $10/Vero 18 thats pricey for a heatsink. Would I be better off ordering 2 lengths of sinks from heatsinkusa and putting 3 chips on each?
AquariusPanta
Well-Known Member
The Arctic 11's come with heat sink and fan, so all you'll need is a PSU for the fan (free shipping @newegg). It may seem pricey but USA is going to charge you $5 flat for cutting anything you order, even if it's one heat sink, then you will have to pay for shipping (~$3 per heat sink). They expect bulk orders.
bicit
Well-Known Member
You're looking at about the same price regardless. The 4.85 profile is the cheapest per watt displaced. The nice thing though would be more efficient because you could run 2 120mm fans rather than 6 92mm fans.
Scornfulheal
Active Member
With that being the case I'm fine going with the Arctic heatsink/fans. I've done many PC builds so I have no problem working with many fans and powering them.
I'm just trying to figure out how to drive 6 Vero 18's now, dimmable from ~350-700mA. Probably going to post on @SupraSPL's sticky on driving LEDs.
I'm just trying to figure out how to drive 6 Vero 18's now, dimmable from ~350-700mA. Probably going to post on @SupraSPL's sticky on driving LEDs.
Mechmike
Well-Known Member
If you want to drive them all on one string you could use this driver.
http://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/HLG-185H-C700B.shtml
That would work fine if you mounted them all on a single large heatsink but it might be a little too messy with Arctic Alpines.
bicit
Well-Known Member
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?search_type=jamecoall&catalogId=10001&freeText=HLG-120H-C700A&langId=-1&productId=2189193&storeId=10001&ddkey=http:StoreCatalogDrillDownView
This will run 6 vero 18's in series with a 350-700ma dimming range and the driver can be mounted pretty far away from the fixture if 18AWG wire is used. Double check the voltage drop if you decide to run a remote driver, should be able to find a calculator for that with a google search.
Scornfulheal
Active Member
Well my idea was actually to use a single piece of plywood (or MDF) about 2'x1' as a frame. I would drill 6 holes in it that the COBs would shine through and the heatsinks would be mounted in/on. This way all of the wires, driver, etc could remain above the board, and the COBs shine downward out of the holes and below the board.
Scornfulheal
Active Member
Could you give me a quick rundown on how I would adjust the output current on an HLG driver? It says it uses in internal type A pentiometer.
Scornfulheal
Active Member
Yeah sorry for being such a nuisance. I saw those up there, I didn't know how they adjusted though (be it a screw driver or what-not). Guess I could have waited for it to arrive to see, or use trusy google.
Cheers.
Cheers.
AquariusPanta
Well-Known Member
Guod just enjoys giving some people a rough time, newbies and friends alike
.churchhaze
Well-Known Member
I meant no disrespect, but what he was saying is true.
To make an analogy, we could be designing the best guns instead of leds. You know as a skilled gunsmith that your products are effective killers, which is why your customers keep returning...
It is another thing to use those guns as a soldier or police. They take certain risks, among other things, that the gunsmith doesn't have to.
I guess I could have chosen a better analogy as LED growers who post pics are no heroes. Everyone knows your led builds are killers, even without seeing journals, but those who do put up journals deserve a thanks as well for taking the time to make detailed journals, when the subject is usually is illegal and the pictures could get them into trouble. I'm sure many more people would be dying to show pictures of their plants before harvest.. if they weren't worried about something going wrong.
To make an analogy, we could be designing the best guns instead of leds. You know as a skilled gunsmith that your products are effective killers, which is why your customers keep returning...
It is another thing to use those guns as a soldier or police. They take certain risks, among other things, that the gunsmith doesn't have to.
I guess I could have chosen a better analogy as LED growers who post pics are no heroes. Everyone knows your led builds are killers, even without seeing journals, but those who do put up journals deserve a thanks as well for taking the time to make detailed journals, when the subject is usually is illegal and the pictures could get them into trouble. I'm sure many more people would be dying to show pictures of their plants before harvest.. if they weren't worried about something going wrong.
Exactly !
drivers with dimming capabilities ,you meant ,I suppose ...
Yes .
Another thing decreasing the power ,while distance remains same
and another thing increasing distance ,keeping the power at same level .
Totally different,in fact ...
One of those two options , is subject to a thing called Inverse Square Law ...
If you wish to increase the distane (raise the light ) ,
then the output power should increase .
If the new distance between light source and canopy is 2x the previous one ,
radiant power should be increasing by a 4x figure .
You lower the light towards plants ?
(Seedlings -early vegging at tree style ,all cycle at SOG & SCROG )
You dim down.
(or have multiple non-dimmable ,low driven COBS =most efficient way ,but most expensive and needs space )
You increase the distance ?
(mid veg to early flowering at tree style )
You increase the driving current ....
That's another reason ,why dimming is needed,
or at least being an advantage in such situations ...
Cheers.
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