...All Things Vero...

Would you consider buying a VERO after reading through some of the posts?

  • Total voters
    357
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Scornfulheal said:
How do I incorporate a dimmer into the >4 CXA string using AC/DC mains PSU with individual DC/DC bucks?
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Dimming DC/DC " bucks "..
Like this one :
http://www.recom-international.com/pdf/Lightline/RCD-48.pdf.

Dimming Circuit is a simple voltage divider ( pot + resistor ) between Ground and Vref pin
while pot wiper goes to all Analog dimming pins of the DC / DC bucks .( Only one Vref is needed ,for dimming up to 10 drivers,if I remember correctly ...)

pcbs.jpg

dim recmom.JPG
 
bicit

bicit

Well-Known Member
Scornfulheal said:
Anyone have experience with Molex Pico EZMate connectors?
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They're nice if you aren't handy with a soldering iron, and simplify assembly. However they're not as secure as a properly soldered wire. One has to be a gentle giant with these as it's fairly easy to pull the wire out and exceedingly difficult(impossible) to put back in.

Make sure you get the one with 18AWG if you want to run a high voltage string.
 
S

Scornfulheal

Active Member
bicit said:
They're nice if you aren't handy with a soldering iron, and simplify assembly. However they're not as secure as a properly soldered wire. One has to be a gentle giant with these as it's fairly easy to pull the wire out and exceedingly difficult(impossible) to put back in.

Make sure you get the one with 18AWG if you want to run a high voltage string.
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@bicit

Thanks! Yeah I'll probably just solder. Save's money too (I already have the soldering gear).
 
FranJan

FranJan

Well-Known Member
In my experience with those Molex connectors they are more secure and safer than soldering and anything but flimsy. Easier to breakdown too. They work great with the Ledil reflector bases if you use those for mounting a Vero like I did with my 18s and they really do save a lot of time if you're doing a few COBs. Worth every penny in my book.
 
C

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
I think a lot of people are afraid of soldering because they're used to soldering metal pcb stars. Those are impossible to solder to. Fuck it. Just give up. I never had time for that.

Vero's solder pads are thermally isolated meaning even if you already have it mounted to the largest heatsink in the world, it will still take less than 5 seconds to melt the solder. (if it takes longer, you're damaging the cob. The instructions say it should take under 5 seconds to solder 1 pad)

less than 5 seconds to tin one pad, less than 5 seconds to tin the other pad, then you spend about a minute trying to tin the wires! (i do because i'm clumsy and stubborn to get something to hold wires for me)

then when the wires are tinned, push wire against pad, heat for less than 5 seconds. Push other wire against other pad and heat for less than 5 seconds. Done.

The majority of the time is spent fucking with the wires.
 
uzerneims

uzerneims

Well-Known Member
Something else? Maybe some else have?
Or maybe someone wants four pieces, so i could buy all ten and sell for someone - i mean, group buy!
 
bicit

bicit

Well-Known Member
churchhaze said:
I think a lot of people are afraid of soldering because they're used to soldering metal pcb stars. Those are impossible to solder to. Fuck it. Just give up. I never had time for that.

Vero's solder pads are thermally isolated meaning even if you already have it mounted to the largest heatsink in the world, it will still take less than 5 seconds to melt the solder. (if it takes longer, you're damaging the cob. The instructions say it should take under 5 seconds to solder 1 pad)

less than 5 seconds to tin one pad, less than 5 seconds to tin the other pad, then you spend about a minute trying to tin the wires! (i do because i'm clumsy and stubborn to get something to hold wires for me)

then when the wires are tinned, push wire against pad, heat for less than 5 seconds. Push other wire against other pad and heat for less than 5 seconds. Done.

The majority of the time is spent fucking with the wires.
Click to expand...
With the molex connector one could wire in ten cobs in the amount of time it takes the solder gun to warm up... :P The molex connector is rated for 300v which happens to be the cap for most available drivers anyhow. Looks cleaner and adds a certain level of 'plug and play' to the DIY LED world.
 
Abiqua

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
bicit said:
With the molex connector one could wire in ten cobs in the amount of time it takes the solder gun to warm up... :P The molex connector is rated for 300v which happens to be the cap for most available drivers anyhow. Looks cleaner and adds a certain level of 'plug and play' to the DIY LED world.
Click to expand...
Good to know on the 300v rating!

Wago's and Molex connectors make the proto-world go round. Soldering has its place when used to its strengths: semi-permanent wire mounting....Molex can fill the gap it seems between permanent and temporary. :peace:

Waiting for new Wago 221's to come out too, should get interesting........
 
C

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
wago222 connectors are awesome. I can't believe I ever used wire nuts.

I bought a box of the 2 port and 5 port ones and don't feel bad at all for not needing them all yet.

The 5 connector ones are great for connecting 1 voltage source to up to 4 fans in parallel. You could also put 3 fans in parallel, and daisy chain to another 5 connector with 4 fans on it, if you have lots of fans.
 
D

doctorflux

Well-Known Member
I tore down a Vero 10 that I damaged and took some pictures with a microscope. Check it out:




After removing the overmolded plastic, the aluminum substrate is visible. The COB substrate itself is polished aluminum. GaN-on-silicon chips are epoxied to the polished aluminum surface and wirebonded in a parallel-series configuration.

Bridgelux specializes in GaN on silicon; in fact, they have a partnership with Toshiba where Toshiba makes the chips and Bridgelux packages the chips into COBs. According to press releases, it appears this is how the Vero series is manufactured.


Silicone phosphor encapsulant with some bond wires visible.

A close up of a bonded wire; likely made of gold. You can also see the phosphor particles in the silicone.
 
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