All I want for Christmas is a flow hood...

Buuuut, I don't have the cash nor space to build a proper flow hood, so I'm going to build a still air box for doing grain to grain transfers and maybe start messing around with strain isolation finally.

I'll probably just get a clear Rubbermaid tote and mount a 15 watt UVC light at the top, cut a couple arm holes and call it good...or not? Anyone have any novel ideas in designing still air boxes?

You have t

Saturnine said:

Buuuut, I don't have the cash nor space to build a proper flow hood, so I'm going to build a still air box for doing grain to grain transfers and maybe start messing around with strain isolation finally.

I'll probably just get a clear Rubbermaid tote and mount a 15 watt UVC light at the top, cut a couple arm holes and call it good...or not? Anyone have any novel ideas in designing still air boxes?

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you have the right idea a light would be unnecessary. A tight tote with hydrogen peroxide works every time.

A tote,the elephant model of the children's cool mist humidifier at target,a hose for the elephants nose,and peroxide dilution....

How we worked bitd.

This one, rory?

DankDru said:

You have t

you have the right idea a light would be unnecessary. A tight tote with hydrogen peroxide works every time.

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I thought a light may be over kill, but I figured it'd save me some work disinfecting shit. I could be over complicating this a bit haha.

Thanks for the input.

Saturnine said:

This one, rory?


View attachment 3431004

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Its different but same principal...does it have a graduated knob where you can turn the flow back to a trickle?

For most purposes a hood is perfect. Not. Of course if you are doing isolates from contamination or working with flame.

But flow hoods have very specific parameters of air volume and velocity and varying that squirl cage speed is a bad idea.

All you need for good results is a box that will deliver still air, a good teqnique and some luck
.

it will work for almost everything save plant tissue culture. That seems to take just too much time in the open.

Could you get a route dimmer switch for the fan? Control of air flow in any increment....

canndo said:

For most purposes a hood is perfect. Not. Of course if you are doing isolates from contamination or working with flame.

But flow hoods have very specific parameters of air volume and velocity and varying that squirl cage speed is a bad idea.

All you need for good results is a box that will deliver still air, a good teqnique and some luck
.

it will work for almost everything save plant tissue culture. That seems to take just too much time in the open.

Click to expand...

I was going to invest in an alcohol lamp, but I'm guessing that's a no-no in a still air box because it'll create air currents?
Also, is it feasible to use a still air box for strain isolation using agar? I'd almost certainly be transferring away from contamination at some point...

Hey @rory420420 @ DankDru what concentration of H2o2 are you guys using? Just the regular 3% stuff, or some industrial strength shit?

Saturnine said:

I was going to invest in an alcohol lamp, but I'm guessing that's a no-no in a still air box because it'll create air currents?
Also, is it feasible to use a still air box for strain isolation using agar? I'd almost certainly be transferring away from contamination at some point...

Hey @rory420420 @ DankDru what concentration of H2o2 are you guys using? Just the regular 3% stuff, or some industrial strength shit?

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Go to the hottub store and get the 30%..just don't get it on you,it will bleach your skin for a long time,and anything else permantly..I'd mix a cup of peroxide to a cup of water..then u got 15%..do it again.. 7.5%...use that.

Awesome, 1 gallon of the 30% H2o2 should last a very long time then. I've been using a bleach solution in a spray bottle for sterilizing, but I can't stand the smell of that shit so it'll be nice to get away from using it.

Oh and here's my setup for anyone that may be curious about it...

I'm going to be using a 4 tier mini greenhouse, a small cool mist humidifier, and 16 quart Rubbermaid totes. 2 totes to a shelf for a total of 8 totes per greenhouse (I'm going to have 2).

I'll be spawning wild bird seed to coco coir, about 3 quarts spawn to 5 quarts coco so each tub will be filled halfway. Sometimes I add some earthworm castings or coffee grounds to the coco...if I feel like it. It doesn't seem to make any noticeable difference in yield.
Using this setup with 1 greenhouse can yield up to and over 3 pounds of dried mushies in a relatively short amount of time in my experience. It depends on how many times the tubs flush.
I've had some tubs that flushed 8 times and could've kept going, but the substrate was getting pretty ragged by that point so I tossed them. Most tubs flushed 5 times before I tossed the substrates and started over.
This method is stupid simple and pretty much set and forget for the most part. Harvesting and drying becomes a real chore though...invest in a food dehydrator if you're going to use this method haha.

Yeah. I think a food dehydrator would be wise for that. Good luck.

Sorry for leaving this thread stagnant for a while guys. I spent many hours on design and execution of what may be the greatest still air box ever designed, I came up with, and trashed, many design ideas before I settled on this one. And after working out some design flaws, I present the still air box 2.0...

In all seriousness though, everyone that gave me advice in this thread fucking rocks. I've isolated 10+ strains of B+ and another 6 of penis envy, and just started a dish of golden teacher from an LC cuz I couldn't get spores to germinate on agar. The first grain jars of both isolates are colonizing so I'll let you know how it goes...

HeatlessBBQ said:

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They've come. For your box.

Saturnine said:

Awesome, 1 gallon of the 30% H2o2 should last a very long time then. I've been using a bleach solution in a spray bottle for sterilizing, but I can't stand the smell of that shit so it'll be nice to get away from using it.

Oh and here's my setup for anyone that may be curious about it...

I'm going to be using a 4 tier mini greenhouse, a small cool mist humidifier, and 16 quart Rubbermaid totes. 2 totes to a shelf for a total of 8 totes per greenhouse (I'm going to have 2).

I'll be spawning wild bird seed to coco coir, about 3 quarts spawn to 5 quarts coco so each tub will be filled halfway. Sometimes I add some earthworm castings or coffee grounds to the coco...if I feel like it. It doesn't seem to make any noticeable difference in yield.
Using this setup with 1 greenhouse can yield up to and over 3 pounds of dried mushies in a relatively short amount of time in my experience. It depends on how many times the tubs flush.
I've had some tubs that flushed 8 times and could've kept going, but the substrate was getting pretty ragged by that point so I tossed them. Most tubs flushed 5 times before I tossed the substrates and started over.
This method is stupid simple and pretty much set and forget for the most part. Harvesting and drying becomes a real chore though...invest in a food dehydrator if you're going to use this method haha.

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I forgot to say...
Post some pics of your completed greenhouse kiiiiddddd!!!

DaSprout said:

I forgot to say...
Post some pics of your completed greenhouse kiiiiddddd!!!

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So's I coulds steal your designings.


Mwahahaha!!!
Burp*

Alright, I think I'm just going to turn this thread into a grow journal of sorts. I just spawned a PE and B+ monoculture to coir last night...I'll post pics as soon as they're done with the spawn run and I'm going to throw them in the greenhouse. The B+ mono is showing some really strange growth characteristics in the jar, they look like blobs like you'd see with PE kinda...weird shit. I tried to get some pics, but my phone wouldn't focus for shit. I'm also going to do a side by side cased vs uncased on a couple of the PE tubs to see how much of a difference it makes with the first flush blobs I've read about.

@DaSprout My greenhouse is just a dime a dozen 4 tier off Amazon with a cool mist humidifier. It works like a charm, the only issue is catching the condensation runoff at the bottom. I have mine inside a 4x4 grow tent so I don't bother with the runoff, but if you have it in a carpeted area inside your house you gotta come up with something.

Saturnine said:

Alright, I think I'm just going to turn this thread into a grow journal of sorts. I just spawned a PE and B+ monoculture to coir last night...I'll post pics as soon as they're done with the spawn run and I'm going to throw them in the greenhouse. The B+ mono is showing some really strange growth characteristics in the jar, they look like blobs like you'd see with PE kinda...weird shit. I tried to get some pics, but my phone wouldn't focus for shit. I'm also going to do a side by side cased vs uncased on a couple of the PE tubs to see how much of a difference it makes with the first flush blobs I've read about.

@DaSprout My greenhouse is just a dime a dozen 4 tier off Amazon with a cool mist humidifier. It works like a charm, the only issue is catching the condensation runoff at the bottom. I have mine inside a 4x4 grow tent so I don't bother with the runoff, but if you have it in a carpeted area inside your house you gotta come up with something.

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First off. The myc is already making your phone trip. Maybe you can use a plastic tarp under the siding of the greenhouse interior. Put an almost like short sided plastic bin in the center. Put some dry perlite with bleach. Tape the tarp angledownward to the bin. In order to catch the run off.
I would like to see how your vreenhouse performs. Please keep a spec and item list around. I am thinking about a few options. Good luck.
Oh. As far as your journal is concerned.
Post that shit kiiiidddd!!!