Air cooled cfl ballasts!!!

applepoop1984

Well-Known Member
Air cooled cfls!!!
[HR][/HR]
i am developing a rubber maid tub to be used for a friends grow.

many of the problems associated with cfl lighting arise from the heat they generate without adequate ventilation.

this will lead to the need to keep the plants further away from the bulbs reducing the lumen output hitting the fan leaves. to combat this i am developing a method to air cool cfl lighting.

first assembled your grow setup. wire everything correctly preferably in parallel which can be done whoever you like but i find the best way is to go to radio shack and buy 2 european terminal strips 1 for neutral 1 for power. also buy 2 lengths of wire black and white 16 gauge should be fine

buy a 120 mm fan rated above 70 cfm and an ac adapter with multiple voltages up to 12 volts dc.

buy an extension cable from home depot the cheapest they have should be $1.49. wire all lights to the 2 terminal strips and use liquid electrical tape where you insert wires as well as any bare metal on the wire, connectors, and terminal strip for safety.

never run current until the tape is dry as it is highly flammable in liquid form. after it drys it is flame retardent.

plug in all cfls and plug in power cord everything should light up.

i would advise against using metal screws to mount your terminal strips. a better alternative is high temp hot glue or zip ties.

zip ties can be used by drilling 4 holes 2 directly above the terminal strip and 2 below . make sure they are very close to the terminal strips almost touching.

insert zip ties and pull tight and cut off excess. this is best because the glue can melt in extreme conditions but it should not.

remember the neutral wire on your power cord will be ribbed or have a white line through it. this will go to the neutral terminal strip.

the power should be smooth and or one solid color and it will go to the power grounding strip. on the light bulb socket the neutral is silver and the power is brass.

make sure all bulb sockets are facing neutral down and power up for easier wiring. this way you can have the power terminal mounter above the neutral and will enable the wires to never contact eachother for each terminal strip.

and now the easy part. screw in all bulbs and mark the top of each ballast and the bottom. remove all bulbs and set one bulb in a vise snug but not distorting the plastic ballast cover. use a small drill bit to slowly drill a hole in the ballast where you made one of the 2 marks.

this should be done in the bottom of the ballast away from the circuit board to reduce water vapor from contacting it as well as damage from drilling.

flip the bulb over and repeat. the hole should be about the size of a pencil at its widest diameter. now cut a hole in your grow box()closest to the top as possible) the diameter of the tubeaxial fan(pc fan) you will be using.

this should match up perfectly with the diameter for most efficiency. wire your pc fan to the dc adapter you purchased making sure the neutral side goes to the neutral on the fan wire.

the neutral side on both fan and adapter will have lettering on it like 20awg 300v etc. the hot wire will be either a solid color or have stripes running down the side like morse code dashes depending where you live.

after your wiring plug in your fan and have it set at the lowest voltage on the adapter. if nothing happens your wires need to be switched and re wired. now find something that can be mount on the fan so it is flush with the diameter .

use the same drill bit for the cfl lights to drill holes in the something you found that was flush with the fans diameter(vacuum cylinder).

take this vacuum cylinder youv made to home depot and buy length of tubing that fits as tight as possible but does not crimp the tubes when inserted .mount fan on the outside of the box . you can use zip ties nuts and bolts or hot glue on the outside to mount the fan. makesure there are no air leaks where the fan is mounted.

hot glue can be used to attached vacuum cylinder to the inside of the box where the fan is. make sure it is flush and there are no leaks.

turn on fan. run proper length of tubing to vacuum cylinder and screw in all cfl lights so that one of the 2 holes you drilled in each are facing directly up . connect tubing one at a time between vacuum cylinder and cfl light.

drill holes all around the box, closest to the bottom as possible yet not too far as any run off water will leak out. if you have a drain valve in your box make them slightly above it. make sure the holes are evenly space one per every 3 inches should do fine.

this will create light leaks but will provide cold air from the floor which is best for cooling. this setup will keep temps in your box very close to ambient room temperature and will make it able to have your plants extremely close to your cfls dramatically increasing their effectiveness. adjusting of the ac adapter voltage can fine tune your temps and give you everything you could want for cooling

i hope this will help someone out i would appreciate any and all input how ever if your going to criticize make sure you have sources to back up your data as i have a video camera and a thermometer to back up mine(soon but not yet)

edited for easier reading
 

whymedeisgns

Active Member
I'm sorry, usually people don't associate heat issues with CFLs. Yes the big ones get hot, but 150W anything gets hot.

No where did you describe what kinda of wattage this is designed for.

Unless you're talking about 150W+ cfls I don't see a need.
 

robert030188

Well-Known Member
Why would you need to air cool cfls just do an import export fan and make it simpler...you can mount them on both sides of the tote, just a suggestion
 

whymedeisgns

Active Member
yeah, unless you're trying to put 600 watts of cfl in a trash can or bucket i can't imagine there being an issue with CFLs.
 

applepoop1984

Well-Known Member
im doing this because, it wil allow more control of the temperatures. since the source of the heat is in the ballast, pulling heat away from the ballast will yield the most cooling potential and the 3- 12 volt ac adapter will allow 6 different fan speeds which will make the temp fine tuneable. this going in a small rubber made tube with party cups so the need to keep the fan leaves closest to the light as possible is most important. i want to get them at 1/4 inch away or barely touching to give the most lumens as possible. im going to do an experiment 1 hour with the fan on high speed no cooling tubes and measure with a laser thermometer, 1 hour buffer time , and 1 hour with cool tubes running and compare the results. the worst thing that coudl happen is you spend 2 hours of time and 3$ for tubing there is no risk involved and i think experiments like this are fun. my next one will be what is the maximum amount of h202 to be added to the water in a soil growth?
 

applepoop1984

Well-Known Member
Why would you need to air cool cfls just do an import export fan and make it simpler...you can mount them on both sides of the tote, just a suggestion
it is a decent suggestion but i hypothesize that running tubes will make them cooler. an import or pusher fan will be 80% as efficient as a export or puller fan. a better setup would be two export fans parallel to each other.
 

applepoop1984

Well-Known Member
on a side note does anyone else hate the herbies headshop guy in all the banners around this site? lol he just looks like he ate glass based cornflakes
 

robert030188

Well-Known Member
it is a decent suggestion but i hypothesize that running tubes will make them cooler. an import or pusher fan will be 80% as efficient as a export or puller fan. a better setup would be two export fans parallel to each other.
If the environment outside the box is controlled at 78° lights on 68 off the intake fans would work the same regardless and like i said bigger area more cfms
 

applepoop1984

Well-Known Member
If the environment outside the box is controlled at 78° lights on 68 off the intake fans would work the same regardless and like i said bigger area more cfms
if you grow with cfls and im sure you do since your in this forum, how close are you able to keep the plants to the light with your setup? how many cfm's is your fan
 

robert030188

Well-Known Member
When i had cfls (just switched to hps today) i didn't need a fan, my lights were 2 inches away from her pushing 12,000 lumens and 155 watts...i could still touch the bulb 11hours into the day, all im saying is if your fans are correct size for the enclosed structure their should be no heating problem
 

applepoop1984

Well-Known Member
When i had cfls (just switched to hps today) i didn't need a fan, my lights were 2 inches away from her pushing 12,000 lumens and 155 watts...i could still touch the bulb 11hours into the day, all im saying is if your fans are correct size for the enclosed structure their should be no heating problem
thanks for the input
 

findme

Well-Known Member
I'm sorry, usually people don't associate heat issues with CFLs. Yes the big ones get hot, but 150W anything gets hot.

No where did you describe what kinda of wattage this is designed for.

Unless you're talking about 150W+ cfls I don't see a need.
this is what i thought by just looking at the title...
 

whymedeisgns

Active Member
The natural order of upgrading a floro grow setup is:

1) Compact flourescents

upgraded to

2) T5 HO

upgraded to:

3) Induction lighting.


The costs and proposed time investment would make it more practical to just buy a t5 ho hood, or maybe even a 200w induction.

The way a CLF produces light, you need it super close. Better cfl growers understand that quantity of CFLs is key, high wattage bulbs are just a waste.

Usually I would never suggest over a 105 W cfl, and even then I would only suggest one, as overhead lighting, to help the plant grow the right direction (phototropic) while keeping multiple 25-40w cfls around it at close proximity.

My 25 W cfls can all but touch my leaves and not damage them. Then can be sitting 1/2 cm away.

Cfl growing requires elaborate structures to attach radial lights to, to aid in getting the lights closer. Heat management is almost a non-point.

T5 grows are about creating a flat canopy to lay a bunch of floros down close to, and induction lighting is a cross between T5 and HID(hps etc) growing styles.

Maybe if you think your idea is worth trying, apply it to something where the benefit has some value, light HID lighting.
 

SnakeByte

Active Member
People who have never used CFL lights can't really have an opinion on how much heat they generate.
These lights produce LESS heat but not NO HEAT. Far from it.
27 watt CFL produce enough heat that 3-4 of them will heat a closed area (4'X3'X2') to 90+ Deg F.
So Exhaust from the top and intake from bottom with passive or active intake.
Blowing winding directly on the lights will only push the hot air around. Cfls don't need a ballast unless it's 200W and those come attached to the light.

https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/590331-thoughts-new-grower.html
 

giggles26

Well-Known Member
Air cooled cfl hood? How many cfls you got shoved in there? Must be like a trash can full cuz I've got 750 watts of them with an oscillating fan for my veg setup and I've never hit temps above 84 and that's on hot summer days.

I can keep my cfls at 1 inch if I want but I built a bunch of reflectors out of pop cans so I keep them at around 3-4 inches and have very vigorous growth.

Your doing nothing but shorting the distance you can put them next to the plants by adding a rubbermaid tote to it.

Just get a good fan and build you some reflectors and place those bitches close as cfls don't have very good light penetration.

Remember most of the light comes out the sides of the bulb not the top.
 
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