How do I fix nute lockout. How do I know when it's there.I said in my last post the deficiencies are from nute lockout caused by the ph fluctuations. Thats easy. The hard part is still why you are having ph issues to start with. Well water with a ppm of 60 and a ph of 9 could be a place to start. Have you had your water tested? maybe DG dont like something in your water. I have well water and a ppm of 400 and a ph of 7.0 with mostly lime in mine and things work great. I barely add any ph down with light feedings and nail it on 5.8 with heavy feedings and no ph adjustments.
Fixing it will happen when you fix the ph problem. A trait of lockout is low ppm burning or what appears to be anyways. You really shouldnt have salt buildup with low ppm DG but it usually happens when your ph stays high or low for some time. Im not really seeing anything obvious that would cause your problems. Try mixing a batch without the protek. I leaning towards expired nutes.How do I fix nute lockout. How do I know when it's there.
Another noobie question. What is salt buildup and how can I see it? I got this one girl I changed the res probably 3 times the whole grow and I have not seen anything out of the ordinary? Old brown water one time that's about it..
Yes I paid lots of money to have it tested but they didn't give me any specific results, all they said was your water is good. lol
I add back gro every day because the ppms drop from 200 to 100 every day.Your problem isnt a ph problem ,trying to keep the ph at a perfect 5.8 isnt going to help anything,whats fuking you up is where your steady adding nutes or protek every day.
Why are you adding nutes to the top off water in the 1st place ? Thete is alot that isnt making sense here,the ppm values you listed dont sound right either,ive never seen a strain that 500 ppm will fry.
You also list your well water ppm at 60 ! a normal low ppm from well water would be anything under 300,to have a well putting out 60 ppm water is unheard of, unless the well has a water softener & a ro system.
Something isnt right,how are you commimg up with the ppm values your giving us ?
If I go more than 2 days without checking anything, there will be like 90ppm and 3.6 pH......You should check your ppms and ph once a week imo, you are fucking things up by constantly trying to add things.
Let them eat up what they can, dump the water at the end of the week and start over fresh. I believe you are fighting yourself more than anything here.
Can you go through a weekly schedule for what you do? I would like to see what I'm doing wrong.Here some dyna gro plants at my ppms. I always advocate what works for others might not work for you, but DynaGro for me has been the best and by far the easiest nute program I have used in 5+ years. IMO your issues don't look all that bad, to me it looks like deficiences from lack of ppm in your water..ie food for the plant.
Here is what I started from and it worked great as is:
http://www.dyna-gro.com/Website pdf Files/DG Hydroponic Feeding Schedule.pdf
So what do you suggest I do. I've got about 40 buckets so keep in mind anything I do will take a shit load of time.but if you didn't check you wouldnt know!
if your ph is dropping like that you need to start over from the start.
I would take and set up a dwc bucket with plant, just water and nutes, and see what it does. Monitor this daily, but adjust nothing. If this differs terribly from the one with the plant (other than nute uptake) then odds are you have some sort of disease.
If you are dropping 250-90 ppm in 2 days your plants are starving and trying to eat everything they can out of the water.
Thanks for the reply. I used to use RO water but I sold it and stopped using it. Should I put a airstone in this control bucket? I've done it before and the pH stayed the same but I didn't do it for 24 hours and I didn't have an airstone.Just use the bucket to learn what happens, don't put a plant in it, just treat it like it does have a plant in it.
This will be your "control" bucket, it will teach you how your nutrients and water (and air) react to each other without the outside influences of the plant.
All you are trying to do with it is learn, so you have a basis of what is happening and why. Once you have found that it is doing the same as the ones with the plants you can start systematically removing ingredients till you figure out the issue. This is the only way you will ever truly understand what is going wrong, until then you will be fighting yourself. I think you are too far in at this point for us to really help more than that.
RO water really helps to take the guess work out and make sure you are starting with 0 ppm water that is fairly consistant in ph.
Man I've been thinking about that alot which is basically why I made this whole thread. My PPM goes from 200-100 in a day. So if I don't do shit for a week, what's that gunna tell you? So is this post telling me I need to switch my res out every day?I'm not sure about your nutes, but mine have ph buffers. So if you're throwing nutes in after you ph, your resevoir's ph should drop lower I would think. That's why people say to ph after you add your nutes. Topping off your res is dangerous because you know your res dropped 100ppm, you have no clue what it was 100ppm of though. So by topping off you risk causing problems (Say your plant used up all the nitrogen, but not much of anything else. You then top off, now your nutrient ratio is fucked to hell, risking all sorts of bad things.). Then there's a whole new batch of ph buffers from that top off being added to your reservoir, ph goes down further. Now you have ph lockout risks, and the risk of too much of one particular mineral in your reservoir . Also, are you sure you're not just overdoing the ph down? Maybe its not getting thoroughly dissolved and slowly breaking down as time passes?