8K Watt DYNAGRO Multi-Strain/Perpetual

IN33DW33D

IN33DW33D

Active Member
First crop is just coming out so I'm still fairly new to this gardening stuff so any common knowledge about DWC you know - I probably don't know :bigjoint: I've been using Dynagro since the middle of february and I just basically don't know what I'm doing. The main problem I'm having is my pH is out of control wild. Everybody says pH is all stable blah blah but this has not been true for me at all. I thought it was normal for a few weeks but now that there's a couple buckets that have been stable I am thinking there is something wrong.

The other problem I had when I first started was using way too much. I had my clones at 300ppm, started the dynagro at 200ppm and burned the hell out of them. Got them back blah blah put them in bud and then started new clones at 150ppm. Burned the hell out of them so now I'm putting my new clones with only dynagro GROW (without protekt) at 100ppm for over a week. It doesn't seem like the growth on them is very fast at all.

What I'm making this thread for is just looking for advice on my methods, what I'm doing wrong, why I'm doing it wrong and how to get my pH stable like everybody says DYNAGRO is supposed to be. So let me break down my op for you guys so you understand how bad I am fucking shit up.

When we walk into the veg room, I got 4 plants on the right almost 5 weeks old. They are going great, had them at 150ppm until this week and they have been moved up 20 a day to 250. They're probably 21-25" tall. What I do with these is I have been putting 7.5mL of protekt, mixing bucket, 7mL of Grow to reach 250 ppm, usually I would be putting 2mL of grow to hit 150ppm, with same amount of protekt as before(wrong/right? everybody I see uses about 12ml Protekt[4ml per gallon].. Then I would bring pH down from like 7 to 5.8. Wake up and they will be at 6.5 so I put them to 5.8 by dumping around 3mL of pH down straight into the bucket. Wake up and they will be at 5.0 usually, so what I used to do (because I read a post from burrr) was take about a gallon of water (my well water is around 9.0 pH) and put a couple drops of protekt in it(maybe 1-2ml) and dump that into my res. pH would go back to 5.8 for the day. Well they all fucked up now D=

The rest of the plants in the veg room are at 100ppm of ONLY gro. (water starts at 60)

Now in the bud room, I've got 10 girls on the left side of the room that I talked about in the 2nd paragraph, They were 3 weeks old when I put them into bud, and they looked AWESOME. Today they are 6 weeks old, 2 weeks into flowering. I was doing the same method as before, every day they would go down to 5.0 pH and I would just add water and protekt. They got a potassium toxicity so I quit doing that and all I do is just add water to them.

I didn't think much of the pH swing before because them plants were drinking like 100ppm a day so I thought it was normal.. Apparantly it isn't.

Now on the right side of the bud room, I've got 7 girls in there. 3 are being taken down soon and the rest are doing OK I think. Same pH swings.

What I have been doing for the past couple of days is every time I put water into my res I pH the water and put grow or bloom (depending on the room) to put the ppm back up a little bit.. Should I be adding the prokekt too? Or does that just go in once? Don't want another potassium toxicity.

​
Info:

- Well Water starts at 60ppm
- pH starts at 9.0
- Veg lighting 24/0
- Veg temp(day 77-79, night 70)
- Res temps 58-65
- I add tea to my res every 3 days
- pH swings alot
- Not sure about protekt
- Why are my PPM's so much lower than everybody else on this planet. My friend was like what your at 200 with that I'm at 1200.
- Veg clones 100ppm
- Veg 4 weeks 200ppm ( 250 ppm today )
- 10 Bud 250ppm
- 8 Bud (2@3 weeks 300ppm, 2@6 weeks 400ppm, 3@7 weeks flushing)
- PPM usually goes down ALOT on every plant every single day. Like 100ppm on every plant besides the ones that are supposed to be at 100ppm.
- When I talk nutrients, I base it on my setup. 5 gal buckets and I have around 3 gallons of water in them. If I go by per gallon I will say it.

And if you're still reading; Please respond.



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[video=youtube;Kd_mlkN_tsg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kd_mlkN_tsg[/video]​
 
babysas

babysas

Active Member
m guess is that your ph drift is from your well water...get an RO and you'll be aces.....

oh the water come in contact with light?
 
H

HSA

Well-Known Member
In33: Why are you pushing your plants 24 hours a day? Current thinking is 18. I light 'em up for 20 hours at planting and then I drop the light by one hour a week. The guy that taught me that said it would be more like what happens in nature.

As far as your nutes are concerned, have you contacted the manufacturer or your hydro store? They might have a few suggestions for you.

what are you correcting your pH with? HSA
 
BigBuddahCheese

BigBuddahCheese

New Member
To be fair: NO NUTE WILL *EVER* KILL your plant, it IS THE GROWER. PERIOD. If you try blaming this and that, you will never succeed as a grower. You need to own up to your mistakes, misguided information, or what ever lead you down the path to where you are at today, in trouble and that will make you "grow" as a grower and be successful. That being said.

I use dynagro with RO water at Non-recirculating measures and I cannot force my plants to burn or die. It's something else.. I give my babies 500-600 ppm from the second week after germ. Never an issue. Flower week 1-3 is 1300ppm and 900ppm for following weeks. Look up dyna dwc no recirculating recipe... I use it with great results.

Also you NEED to run protekt (always add first to water) at least I would run protekt even if I did not run dyna main mutes. It's that good and works so well.


Ps your bold case is stuck.

Here some dyna gro plants at my ppms. I always advocate what works for others might not work for you, but DynaGro for me has been the best and by far the easiest nute program I have used in 5+ years. IMO your issues don't look all that bad, to me it looks like deficiences from lack of ppm in your water..ie food for the plant.

Here is what I started from and it worked great as is:

http://www.dyna-gro.com/Website pdf Files/DG Hydroponic Feeding Schedule.pdf
 

Attachments

IN33DW33D

IN33DW33D

Active Member
BigBuddahCheese said:
To be fair: NO NUTE WILL *EVER* KILL your plant, it IS THE GROWER. PERIOD. If you try blaming this and that, you will never succeed as a grower. You need to own up to your mistakes, misguided information, or what ever lead you down the path to where you are at today, in trouble and that will make you "grow" as a grower and be successful. That being said.

I use dynagro with RO water at Non-recirculating measures and I cannot force my plants to burn or die. It's something else.. I give my babies 500-600 ppm from the second week after germ. Never an issue. Flower week 1-3 is 1300ppm and 900ppm for following weeks. Look up dyna dwc no recirculating recipe... I use it with great results.

Also you NEED to run protekt (always add first to water) at least I would run protekt even if I did not run dyna main mutes. It's that good and works so well.


Ps your bold case is stuck.

Here some dyna gro plants at my ppms. I always advocate what works for others might not work for you, but DynaGro for me has been the best and by far the easiest nute program I have used in 5+ years. IMO your issues don't look all that bad, to me it looks like deficiences from lack of ppm in your water..ie food for the plant.

Here is what I started from and it worked great as is:

http://www.dyna-gro.com/Website pdf Files/DG Hydroponic Feeding Schedule.pdf
Click to expand...
I made a misleading title out of boredom. :p

If I gave my plants 500-600 they would burn up. In the first pic I have posted there is clear signs of burn, isn't there? That's at 200ppm.

If that's not burn then, what is it? And why does my pH drop to 5.0 after 12 hours? I didn't check one yesterday and it was at 3.6 today. What's the deal with that

I know I need to run PROTEKT, but how many times do I put it in my bucket? Do I use it every time I add back nutes, which is every day cause they drink 100ppms a day?
 
IN33DW33D

IN33DW33D

Active Member
When I pH first, the pH is usually perfect after I'm done adding nutes. I put the pH correlating to what it will be after nutes are in.
 
somedude247

somedude247

Well-Known Member
I dont use protek or r/o and Im on a well and I dont have any issues with burning or ph. Very healthy roots and lush, green plants. Nothing added, DynaGro Bloom only. I dont even check ppm, just 1 cap full per gallon and never any problems. Im using a 5 gal DWC bucket also. What do you adjust your ph with? That kinda looks like nute lockout from the ph swings. Try letting a bucket sit for 24 hrs after adding nutes before you put your plant in it and see what it does.
 
IN33DW33D

IN33DW33D

Active Member
somedude247 said:
I dont use protek or r/o and Im on a well and I dont have any issues with burning or ph. Very healthy roots and lush, green plants. Nothing added, DynaGro Bloom only. I dont even check ppm, just 1 cap full per gallon and never any problems. Im using a 5 gal DWC bucket also. What do you adjust your ph with? That kinda looks like nute lockout from the ph swings. Try letting a bucket sit for 24 hrs after adding nutes before you put your plant in it and see what it does.
Click to expand...
I bring pH down with GH pH down and I bring it up with water.

somedude247 said:
Thats what Ive always read also.
Click to expand...
It says the opposite in the bible.
 
somedude247

somedude247

Well-Known Member
IN33DW33D said:
I bring pH down with GH pH down and I bring it up with water.


It says the opposite in the bible.
Click to expand...
Cool. Thats what I do.
I wouldnt always believe what you read in a bible. Every nute company says to add nutes first, then additives then ph last. Reading your bible is your biggest sin here. LOL Do it however you think is right, but I believe ph'ing first may by your problem.
 
IN33DW33D

IN33DW33D

Active Member
I've only started that method this week. I've probably did it 4 times total. Just trying something out because if I don't adjust my pH every 12 hours it will go to 3.6. Da fuck DYNAGRO?
 
somedude247

somedude247

Well-Known Member
IN33DW33D said:
I've only started that method this week. I've probably did it 4 times total. Just trying something out because if I don't adjust my pH every 12 hours it will go to 3.6. Da fuck DYNAGRO?
Click to expand...
Take it back and get a new bottle. I bet its an old expired bottle then. Dynagro has been really good to me. If its not expired, I really dont know what else would be wrong. I had those issues with an old bottle of fox farm grow big recently then switched to DG and things got better. Does it sound like it has solids in the bottle when you shake it?
 
IN33DW33D

IN33DW33D

Active Member
I am using a Hannah PPM Meter and a Milwaukee pH meter. They are calibrated and I will calibrate them again today just for the lulz.



This was one of the 10 that are in the left flowering room right now. This was at 2 weeks old from clone, so they are only bigger and better now. I can take pics today. Some of the buckets, the roots are brownish and not white though.
 
BigBuddahCheese

BigBuddahCheese

New Member
Nah thats ok I just wanted to make sure you weren't one of those guys who just "guestimates" the hydro part of hydro.

What is temp of the water?

Conversely, the plant itself may be the largest contributor to pH changes in the nutrient solution.

The solution is made up of positively and negatively charged ions, called cations and anions. As the plant takes up these charged nutrient ions it gives off an H+ or OH- ion via the roots in order to keep the charge balanced between the solution and the plant tissue.

When a positively charged cation, like K+ is taken up, the plant puts out an H+ ion. When a negatively charged anion, like NO3- is taken up, the plant puts out an OH- ion.

pH is a measure of the H+ concentration, so you can see how the plant can affect it depending on what nutrients it is most using at any given time in the grow.

For example, during the flowering period cannabis uses relatively more K+ than it did during vegetative growth. So the plant is putting out more H+ ions, which will cause the pH to drop.

Conversely, during vegetative growth the plant is using more N, which is in the form of NO3- mostly in hydro nutrients. So the plant is putting out alot of OH- ions, which will tend to increase the pH.
 
IN33DW33D

IN33DW33D

Active Member
Water temps are always 65 or below. In the left part of the flower room where the 10 plants are, they are always at 58-60 degrees.

From that post everything about my grow seems like it's in tip top shape and I am awaiting a nice size yield... Look, my pH drops from 5.8 to 4.9 every 12 hours. When it does not drink any nutrients, it does not drop at all. When it drops to 4.9, I notice that the ppms will be from 200 to 100. This happens every 12 hours. If I bring the ppm up over 150-200 in veg, they will burn I think.

What do I do now? Do I add 100ppm of grow, or do I add 100ppm of grow AND PROTEKT? IDK WHAT TO DO :( Do I ph it first? my pH is 9 so I don't pH it so I can set it back to 5.8. Every day in the flower room I have been putting 1 gallon of water and adding 300ppm of grow to it and add it to my flowering buckets. It brings evrything right to 5.8 and my ppm back to 200-300, depending which plant.
 
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