5th Official Party Cup Registration

tkowitha123

Well-Known Member
Its getting more official every time I do this, I week left for registration and there will be no exceptions if you are not registered you cannot join middle of germination no if ands or butts. So far 55 of you have shown intrest in the 5th Official 16oz. Indoor Party Cup Competition, by posting on this thread you have registered to be able to participate in the 5th Party Cup Comp. Only 1 week Left to join. These people are in it to win it:
  • snowboarder396
  • puffenuff
  • kmog33
  • Psuagro
  • MightyMike530
  • epicfail
  • Chronikool
  • medicinehuman
  • hydrogreen65
  • lmoore2680
  • hyroot
  • RedCarpetMatches
  • FrozenChozen
  • natro.hydro
  • Positivity
  • flaiks
  • KineBoisin420
  • Adrosmokin
  • CaliWorthington
  • Mo!
  • reku
  • THRE4T2S0CIETY
  • trutattoo13
  • GroErr
  • mc130p
  • ErieR33FER
  • dirtyrigger
  • foreverflyhi
  • orion22
  • Captainmorgan
  • FranJan
  • DrewPac_22
  • Cococola36
  • B166ER420
  • Sativied
  • Bad Karma
  • Vladimiroslav
  • Socalrob
  • forb1d
  • Metasynth
  • Pinworm
  • purplegrower02
  • Flagg420
  • CannaBare
  • ActionHanks
  • Mr. Head
  • DarthBlazeAnthony
  • Elkamino
  • UkFreak
  • bf80255
  • Jbone77
  • ballist
  • CannlPuffz
  • eyes13
  • mrwhatdahell

Here is the basic outline of the comp. For those involved with the last competition it is very similar.

  • 1st post or germination post must contain the following: strain name, nutrients used, light source used, media used and germination date (day of sprout)
  • Germ date and strain name must be written on the cup by first post.
  • Party cups (16oz) only, no other sizes permitted or transplanting from other sizes once germied, no paper or fabric
  • Roots must be confined inside the cup any roots outside the cup is automatic DQ
  • Any Indoor light source allowed- no changing light sources once started (with the exception of a burnt out bulb). No Sunlight
  • Participants and sponsors may vote on winner(s)
  • Prizes are Available from these sponsors : Indagro, Root Pouch, Area51, Midweeksong,Green Gator Filters...(maybe more)
  • Start from seed only. No Clones
  • 12/12, 11/13, 13/11, the entire time = No Veg time
  • Start 5 seeds, keep only 1 female plant for entry once sex shows.
  • Registration ends 8-1. Then a new thread will be created 5th Official Party Cup Grow Competition
  • Germination window begins 8-1 and ends 9-1. No exceptions
  • weekly updates mandatory with picture or you're DQ
Hydro, dwc, automated watering,soma style:
All the above methods are fine as long as your roots do not grow outside the confines of your cup. Trim your roots from growing out side the cup or be DQ (you may be subject for a picture to confirm no roots are growing outside the cup)
 

FranJan

Well-Known Member
OMG, there's more drama on this thread than the Lifetime channel.
It's summertime so lotsa sandy vaginas going around ;). Anyway can I get a CLARIFICATION on something? So when you say you can't change your light you mean no going from HPS to LED and back not something like using a 630nm LED spot, then say 2 to 3 weeks later one replaces the 630 with a 12000K LED spot that's OK, right?
 

KineBoisin420

Well-Known Member
Fran: As far as I understand things, if your light has a switchable mode (ex: area51's two modes), flipping to the second mode is fine. Adding or subtracting different lights during the comp isn't.

But, TKO is the official word, so will let him weigh in, all official like.
 

DarthBlazeAnthony

Well-Known Member
Cheers to all the 5th participants! What strain are you smoking this morning/afternoon and why did you choose that particular strain? I prefer my Indacas when waking up and my Sativas at bedtime...It does not matter to me.
 

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tkowitha123

Well-Known Member
Switching bulbs is
It's summertime so lotsa sandy vaginas going around ;). Anyway can I get a CLARIFICATION on something? So when you say you can't change your light you mean no going from HPS to LED and back not something like using a 630nm LED spot, then say 2 to 3 weeks later one replaces the 630 with a 12000K LED spot that's OK, right?
Man why all these ruleings to be made this round? cousin jimjim had it easy last time. correct no going from led to floro or, floro to led hps to led, hps to floro...none of it...but if you are using a switchable ballist mh to hps is acceptable, switching coclor spectrums on hoods like the han's panel or area 51 is acceptable even switching bulbs from 6400k in a floro to 28ook in floro is fine just no changing sources...hope that makes sense, ? We want you to use the same wattage from start to finish, which means no changing hoods or ballists but bulb changes are acceptable.

P.S. I'm trying to be a little more understanding of how people change specturms and bulbs to get better yeilds, what we don't want is somebody to start the seeds with floros and then once flower happens switching to a 1000watt HPS. If your ballist runs both hps and Mh as long as your not changing ballists or adding lights I see no issue with changing flood light bulb spectrums...My hans panel has 3 settings all that run off the same ballist, if I can switch with my han's panel from a blue (like Mh) to a red like (hps) for flowering: why shouldn't the H.I.D. guys be able to do the same as long as they are using the same ballast and wattage and just switching bulbs who cares
 

tkowitha123

Well-Known Member
I usually vape CBD rich strains thru the day, like my lovely Z7, from MNS.
So have you come up with a better way of containing your roots rather than just letting the grow to pinch them off your self??? Capt. Morgan suggested some screen at the bottom of the cup, I would reccomend that as well since you don't want to get dq for some roots poking out. Just looking out for you brother, maybe some landscaping fabric since it allows water and air thru, but not roots! just an idea
 

GroErr

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the clarification, sounds reasonable, switching out bulbs on the same fixture to change spectrums is no different than changing the spectrum switches on an LED panel with switches. Same would go for someone using LED/CFL bulbs in a DIY fixture as long as they're just changing spectrum/bulbs and not adding light (can't think of why anyone would want to reduce lights other than maybe too much heat, and that would not be an advantage).
 

natro.hydro

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the clarification, sounds reasonable, switching out bulbs on the same fixture to change spectrums is no different than changing the spectrum switches on an LED panel with switches. Same would go for someone using LED/CFL bulbs in a DIY fixture as long as they're just changing spectrum/bulbs and not adding light (can't think of why anyone would want to reduce lights other than maybe too much heat, and that would not be an advantage).
Not trying to nitpick but you are underpowering your lights when you only run the veg switch. Mine doesn't pull full power without both switches so on top of adding spectrum you are adding light whereas hid you are just changing spectrum. Not really trying to make a point just saying that us guys with switches on our panels are running different wattages as well as spectrum at points of the grow, ya dig.
And I feel for ya tko, guess winning the comp is both a blessing and a curse.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Rollitup mobile app
 

tkowitha123

Well-Known Member
Yeah my han's panel does underpower when using the blue spectrum, but it is still the same source. I understand what your saying but to many variables between leds and other leds. Just trying to make it an even playing feild for everone...well everone except kineboisin420...LOL
 

GroErr

Well-Known Member
Not trying to nitpick but you are underpowering your lights when you only run the veg switch. Mine doesn't pull full power without both switches so on top of adding spectrum you are adding light whereas hid you are just changing spectrum. Not really trying to make a point just saying that us guys with switches on our panels are running different wattages as well as spectrum at points of the grow, ya dig.
And I feel for ya tko, guess winning the comp is both a blessing and a curse.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Rollitup mobile app
In understand what you're saying, I personally won't be running any switchable lights this round, but I did last round and it was allowed (and discussed/voted on during the round) for that comp, if it's not this round we should get a clarification as some may want to do that. There can be many reasons for switching, particularly in a small space/cabinet like I ran last time. As far as switched LED's, I haven't seen any benefit in running all the reds through veg (in this 12/12 from seed the first few weeks), if anything imo they perform as well or better with the veg switch in earlier stages closer to the plants vs. full on power further away. I also prefer slightly higher temps in flowering and in a small cabinet running full power increases the temps.
 

captainmorgan

Well-Known Member
Well I was planning on using a single Cree CXA 3070 3000k Z4 COB from start to finish. I was hoping to start at .35a and 11.76 watts and finish at 1.4a and 52.22 watts by changing drivers. I suppose if I have to,I can just start at 1.4a and keep the light far away. I also asked about 5 minutes of 730 nm at lights out but don't recall getting a response,I figured it's built into the Indagro light with pontoon that has been used in the contest before so it would be ok?
 

KineBoisin420

Well-Known Member
So have you come up with a better way of containing your roots rather than just letting the grow to pinch them off your self??? Capt. Morgan suggested some screen at the bottom of the cup, I would reccomend that as well since you don't want to get dq for some roots poking out. Just looking out for you brother, maybe some landscaping fabric since it allows water and air thru, but not roots! just an idea
I got a bit of that black fabric you use at the bottom of a planter container to keep weeds out, but I honestly think its overkill, as this isn't a DWC, so I don't expect that kind of root growth with this system. But, whatever keeps the natives from being restless. Buncha uptight freaks! :bigjoint:
 

KineBoisin420

Well-Known Member
Well I was planning on using a single Cree CXA 3070 3000k Z4 COB from start to finish. I was hoping to start at .35a and 11.76 watts and finish at 1.4a and 52.22 watts by changing drivers. I suppose if I have to,I can just start at 1.4a and keep the light far away. I also asked about 5 minutes of 730 nm at lights out but don't recall getting a response,I figured it's built into the Indagro light with pontoon that has been used in the contest before so it would be ok?
I think if its built into the light, like the Indagrow, you're in the clear.
 

FranJan

Well-Known Member
"We want you to use the same wattage from start to finish, which means no changing hoods or ballists but bulb changes are acceptable.
OK let me stop being vague and lay it out. I use multiple panels in my grows and I plan on doing the same with the ghetto box I'm making for my cup entrant. What I'd like to do is start with 6 x Illumitex F3s and a 1x20 watt 630nm multichip spot then about 2 to 4 weeks in switch out the 630nm for a 10 watt 12,000K multichip to try to get a grip on stretch from all the 660 and 730 in the F3s. After that it's either back to the 630 or maybe 2 more Illumitex F3s. And if that's a problem then I'll run 8-12 F3s which is total overkill to me but I only have certain drivers to use, or just say fuckit and run it in the main grow area with 2x80 Hans' and the 52 F1/F3 Surexis but I really don't want it in the main area getting crowded out by other plants and knocked over by me :). So yeah I do want to jump around abit but it will be a straight LED grow.
 
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