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$275 DIY Rosin Plates, PID Controller, and Press

Discussion in 'Do It Yourself' started by Greengenes707, Mar 16, 2017.

  1.  
    DesertHydro

    DesertHydro Well-Known Member

    what do you mean dunk it? been trying to look at other peoples methods for pressing flower. i just pressed almost all my kief. played around with temps a little bit but i found that ~200 degrees for a minute and then repress on a fresh parchment to get the residual. only averaging about 25% return. i was definitely expecting a lot more seeing the videos off of youtube with the giant gushing presses of kief but i am still learning and i was being a little unrealistic i guess lol.

    i tried doing a cooler press for a little longer and it wasnt stable for shit, so for now im sticking to 200 and one minute.
     
    Greengenes707 likes this.
  2.  
    DesertHydro

    DesertHydro Well-Known Member

    i ran some water over a pre pressed patty, shook it out and then squished it and there was definitely a difference for sure. cant tell yet as i had a rectal blowout on the rosin bag but it looks promising lol.
    there was a bid difference in sound as well. definitely more bubbling when pressed.
     
    Greengenes707 likes this.
  3.  
    febisfebi

    febisfebi Active Member

    Very interesting method. I suppose since most cannabinoids dissolve in water it couln't hurt, I mean people make hash with water. RSO can be made with water. So you've made yourself some Rick Simpson Patties. Im pretty sure that that most, but not all, water hash makers use a method that usually consists of initially putting your hash bag full of flower/trim, into a bucket of ice water, allowing you to breaking the trichs off their stem by making freezing the oils to a brittle solid, and smahing it to bits, Severing most if not all the stem of the trich from the plant material it grew on while very useful to water hash makers.. Since trich stem is way smaller than the trich itself, they break off really easily once turned brittle instead of sticky oily and crushed/smashed, and then go straight through the bag into the water to dissolve slowly after the process.

    How about using the same idea ice crushing idea for pressing rosin? instead of putting it in a bucket of ice, put it in the actual freezer till its good and frozen, then grind or smash into powdered ice weed before pressing, I wonder if this would make oil more available through a patty bag. its hard to say cause you might separate the trichs momentarily, but then everything is melted and squeezed back together, and out a small hole in a bag, and everything, including the stem are squished out. It would be interesting though, to see if detached trichs give better yeild. I suppose it could be potential for some really nice resin, or it could be a totally useless waste of time..

    When you say dried cured, I assume you keep it in glass jars, but do you regulate humidity with humidity packs or monitor RH or anything? With only 20%RH all the time, you might consider for a dollar a piece(or less), toss one 62% RH pack per jar in a after a couple weeks of initial curing (daily jar popping, etc) then once the plant sap has dried out to the optimal level it'd be worth keeping the RH the same all the time to keep it that way, rather than letting it dry out further and further every time you open your jar, and at a fast rate, once the optimal; level is reached, since that optimal level is so low, its easy to go below it, and then you get powdery shaky stuff instead of nice trimmed flowers. Small price to pay to not get dry crumbly flowers, which will not doubt happen in your climate.
    Depending on size of jar, use a bigger pack for a bigger jar of course, but those >$1 packs will easily take on a full mason jar and then some, and keep it feeling like the day you trimmed it. Like a cigar straight out of a humidor, rather than a dry old swisher that crumbles in your fingers no matter how careful you are. With that kind of RH around all the time its only a matter of time before your flower will become like the dried out swisher assuming you open the jar even once after the controlled drying. Which if you didn't might could maybe cause mold in some case depending how dry, or undry you made it originally before sealing it off.
    When it is this dry, this is also when decarboxylation occurs as well, which further degrades the quality of your medicine. I would venture to say that this method from the start should help you to get a significantly better yield with your press, with any of your medicine, and not limit you to just relatively freshly cut flower/trim. You can even throw some packs in a jar of real dry stuff and leave it for several days or a week, or more, and try then. Would probably help quite a bit even though decarboxylation has been happening for however long now since it first started feeling dry, but definitely worth a shot.

    Happy pressing
     
  4.  
    Greengenes707

    Greengenes707 Well-Known Member

    Probably too late of a response, but...

    I was told a long time a go to shot for 400PSI. And have since heard many much larger figures. But still not much over 1000PSI before blowout and no gain in Q or Y takes place. And made a lot of sense seeing as I was using barley 60psi with my first ever rosin attempts.
    So it depends on your plate size. 12ton was too much for my 5x3 plates...always had blow outs. The 6 ton would have been perfect.
    -5x3=15sqin...12tons=24000lbs...24,000÷15=1600PSI.
    -With the 6 ton being half that......~800PSI on 3x5 plates.

    For me, is why I made bigger plates to fit my 12 ton. 12 tons over 30sqin...right in that 800PSI range again.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2017
    CoB_nUt, CannaBruh, febisfebi and 2 others like this.
  5.  
    greg nr

    greg nr Well-Known Member

    Well, correct me if I'm wrong but it's not the plate size, it's the contact area with the bag you are pressing. That's what you need to use to calculate the pressure. You don't use the unused area of the plates......
     
  6.  
    Greengenes707

    Greengenes707 Well-Known Member

    I get what you're saying. And as far as what is going on with the bag, if the bag size was constant, it is what it's experiencing. But that is not how I would size a plate for a press.

    Your way of thinking will have you designing around a bag, rather than plates available, or the presses available. Many bags are not meant for bigger presses as well.
    Plate/press companies recommend 2.5-2.75"x4" bags on 3"x5" plates. After squishing is essentially on the edge. Matching bags/pucks size to plate size does 2 things, limits heat exposure as rosin is extracted, and minimizes the delta from plates size to pressing material size like you're talking about.

    So as far as "building a press system"...I recommend a target PSI based on the plate size.
     
    CannaBruh likes this.
  7.  
    ANC

    ANC Well-Known Member

    Wow, I like the design, I would drill closer tolerances for the heater and probe holes. Thermal compound is still a terrible conductor, and ideally works best when it is just filling micro gaps. Doing this will increase the accuracy of the probe, and shorten the time to heat it.

    Why is there a heatsink on the relay?
     
    CannaBruh likes this.
  8.  
    greg nr

    greg nr Well-Known Member

    Ahh, I see your thought process now. Makes sense. Thanks
     
    Greengenes707 likes this.
  9.  
    Airwalker16

    Airwalker16 Well-Known Member

    Because that relay gets hot AF
     
    CannaBruh likes this.
  10.  
    DabsOnDank

    DabsOnDank New Member

    gene said in one of this videos that the heat sink was not needed. If you watch his squashing vids I think he said he removed his.
     
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  11.  
    febisfebi

    febisfebi Active Member

    Thanks for the info. sounds like the small one would have worked just fine, although it wouldnt be much room to work in and would probably be a major pain to use,.
    In your video you used 3x5 plates, on what looks like a 12 to press. According to your calculations here, sounds like perhaps we should be using bigger plates on a 12 ton?

    Edit: do you really need a 40A relay? been looking at some cheaper PID kits with 10A and 25A relays. Still seems like plenty for a couple 100w heaters. I mean if it was drawing any more than 15-20A it would blow the breaker in the breaker box.
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2017
  12.  
    febisfebi

    febisfebi Active Member

    @Greengenes707 correct me if I missed something, but I cannot find anywhere in the list of parts, or anywhere in the 4 pages of posts, anything at all about the pipe thread joiner with the 2 setscrews for mounting the top plate from the floor flange directly to the press. I am guessing you can get them at your local home depot, but a link to where you got that would be nice so we all know what to ask for if we go looking at home depot, or what to search for on amazon or whatever. I don't think you were planning on having us drill and tap the holes and add setscrews ourselves and if memory serves this is a standard pre-made part. That being said, it would be really great to know what it is called, where you got it, and possibly other places we might be able to find it locally at national chain stores like home depot lowes, etc.
    Thanks again!
     
  13.  
    Greengenes707

    Greengenes707 Well-Known Member

    18:35 I explain it. And yes I do expect you to drill and tap it.
    Prefered mounting was shown/mentioned in posts #38 and 39
     
    CannaBruh likes this.
  14.  
    CannaBruh

    CannaBruh Well-Known Member

    Many of the links are no longer available on amazon

    what size of plates are you using now Gene?
     
  15.  
    Greengenes707

    Greengenes707 Well-Known Member

  16.  
    Greengenes707

    Greengenes707 Well-Known Member

    I'll make some new links...we bought them out I guess.

    5.5x6 plates for me right now.
     
    CannaBruh likes this.
  17.  
    CannaBruh

    CannaBruh Well-Known Member

    Perfect thank you, I went to grab some and had to laugh at the influence the industry has on some markets.
     
    Greengenes707 likes this.
  18.  
    CannaBruh

    CannaBruh Well-Known Member

    It looks like "Stoner Tools & Raw Materials" has bought up and is reselling a lot of the aluminum...
     
    Greengenes707 likes this.
  19.  
    CannaBruh

    CannaBruh Well-Known Member

    Your guys' heaters are very small for the size of plates you are trying to heat. Only some 8mm x 40mm so you can do the math for surface area of a cylinder.

    Try 12mm x 80mm 100-150W heaters, or better the largest ones you can fit in your plates. I drilled through and go end to end and use two per plate (might have to rethink brains, I'm not sure if that has more IO.) I drilled holes for the heaters creating a nice snug slip fit, and then drilled two more holes (tapped) and use 2 more set screws which then from the sides of the plates pinch the heaters into place.

    Your plates will heat up a lot lot faster with more heater surface area, and of course more heaters.
     
  20.  
    dankesthours182

    dankesthours182 Well-Known Member

    Amazing video, I'll need to build one of these eventually, I don't like burning plain keif
     
    Greengenes707 likes this.

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