20,000 Watt Medical Grow Op Construction

Wolverine97

Well-Known Member
Damn...never heard that before...thank you so much. That makes me feel good.


On another note. Which one of you regulars runs Ebb and Flow? I know one of you posts regular on that thread. I need some advice. We just bought the CAP Ebb n Flow Bucket System to try out. It looks like the most mobile system out there...meaning I can move the plants around easily. That has always been my biggest complaint about the "real" hydro systems...that the plants are in a fixed location. I also don't like miles of tubing going everywhere. This system seems to have addressed those issues. I don't know why I haven't taken a look at this before.

My wife is giving me shit about the amount of landfill trash we generate with rockwool. Since we're trying to design the grow op to be at least halfway enviro friendly, the rockwool may have to go. Bummer. I love it. But, at this scale, there's alot of rockwool being used and tossed. Even Capitolist Me is starting to feel some enviro-guilt.

PLUS, the root aphids storming Cali grows have arrived here. They wiped out Commercial J's last crop. 20 Lbs down the drain at 5 weeks. I've heard they are easier to control with hydro systems. Right now the aphids are just in the plants I'm flushing...no big deal. But, if they get into the other tray, I'm fucked. Anyone kn ow what to use on them?
Spinosad works fairly well, but you need a multi-pronged approach. I'd recommend nematodes, spinosad, and an Azamax drench... I've had them, they are THE motherfucking scourge for sure. Far worse than spider mites.

also, my inbox is cleaned up now...
 

afrawfraw

Well-Known Member
Perhaps the OP can answer a question I keep getting mixed answers about. I am turning a 10X11X7 bedroom into a flower room. If I use 5 vertical 600's and 1 MH 1000, can I run them bare bulb if I have adequate ventilation? My intake air is in the 40's-50's, and my exhaust fan is 880cfm...Some say the cold will be an issue. Others say it will work if I have a turbulent atmosphere. I will have atmospheric controls installed. How about it? Feasible, or impossible?
 

jojo2002

Well-Known Member
Hey CG since your in ventura call up Houewlings Tomato in Oxnard/Cam they are hydro setup maybe the can give you a free tour i believe they are on Ebb and flow with coco.. peace.
 

collective gardener

Well-Known Member
I saw some great results using No Tolerance...but if you prefer not to use oils and stuff that can effect your crop, I'd say get some lady bugs. The only downside is the lady bugs you buy at the store were caught hibernating...this means they won't eat right away, they gotta hump, make some larvae and then they feed :) takes about two weeks to fully get rid of them but it has always worked for me.

I have ROOT aphids...not the kind lady bugs work on.
 

collective gardener

Well-Known Member
Perhaps the OP can answer a question I keep getting mixed answers about. I am turning a 10X11X7 bedroom into a flower room. If I use 5 vertical 600's and 1 MH 1000, can I run them bare bulb if I have adequate ventilation? My intake air is in the 40's-50's, and my exhaust fan is 880cfm...Some say the cold will be an issue. Others say it will work if I have a turbulent atmosphere. I will have atmospheric controls installed. How about it? Feasible, or impossible?

Just don't let the cold air hit them head on.I would fire everything up and see what it does before bringing in the plants.
 

Bird Gymnastics

New Member
I have ROOT aphids...not the kind lady bugs work on.
Guess my medication is a little too strong :weed: my bad...for root aphids my buddy and I have used Azatrol with pretty good results. Just make sure to dilute it as it can be fairly strong. We had 55 gallon drums so in there we would mix in about 1 cup of Azatrol. According to my notes I'm reading right now, they took us 9 complete days to get rid of them as soon as we added them to our reservoir. Sorry about the earlier post, I feel like a moron but glad you cleared it up.
 

Wurd

Member
Perhaps the OP can answer a question I keep getting mixed answers about. I am turning a 10X11X7 bedroom into a flower room. If I use 5 vertical 600's and 1 MH 1000, can I run them bare bulb if I have adequate ventilation? My intake air is in the 40's-50's, and my exhaust fan is 880cfm...Some say the cold will be an issue. Others say it will work if I have a turbulent atmosphere. I will have atmospheric controls installed. How about it? Feasible, or impossible?
Man, I have a very similar situation. CG is right on as usual. I live in the NW and it's kinda cold in my grow space. The air coming into the space is usually 50-60 but occasionally during very cold stretches in the Winter, the basement gets down to like 45 or so. I just make sure the air is deflected away from the plants. I actually ducted it to the top of the space where the warmest air is. Before I started deflecting the cold air I would notice the side of the plants that got the direct cold intake air on them showed stunted growth and more stunted flower development. It caused smaller & kinda spindly buds in those directly effected area. Rest of the plant did fine. You should be good as long as the cold air mixes with the warm before it reaches the plants. Make the colder room the veg room if you can. I noticed veg is less affected by cool temps. Also, make sure any really cold air doesn't aim toward any of your thermostats

On a separate note, good work CG! This thread is amazing! I stumbled across it about a month ago, read the whole thing and was inspired to join the riu community. It is literally the most practically usable gathering of information on this topic I have ever seen, and I have cervantes and rosenthal books. This whole thread makes me want to step my game up. Thanks for the dedication and education.

peace from the NW
 

afrawfraw

Well-Known Member
Man, I have a very similar situation. CG is right on as usual. I live in the NW and it's kinda cold in my grow space. The air coming into the space is usually 50-60 but occasionally during very cold stretches in the Winter, the basement gets down to like 45 or so. I just make sure the air is deflected away from the plants. I actually ducted it to the top of the space where the warmest air is. Before I started deflecting the cold air I would notice the side of the plants that got the direct cold intake air on them showed stunted growth and more stunted flower development. It caused smaller & kinda spindly buds in those directly effected area. Rest of the plant did fine. You should be good as long as the cold air mixes with the warm before it reaches the plants. Make the colder room the veg room if you can. I noticed veg is less affected by cool temps. Also, make sure any really cold air doesn't aim toward any of your thermostats

On a separate note, good work CG! This thread is amazing! I stumbled across it about a month ago, read the whole thing and was inspired to join the riu community. It is literally the most practically usable gathering of information on this topic I have ever seen, and I have cervantes and rosenthal books. This whole thread makes me want to step my game up. Thanks for the dedication and education.

peace from the NW
Thank you guys! I'm rolling with the open bulbs. RH may suffer, seeing how I'll need a constant air flow, but the harvest makes up for it because of more light. Besides, MH always gave me more frost than RH anyways :mrgreen:
 

stonestare

Active Member
ROOT APHID CONTROLS

There are several options, none are fool proof. First, there is a fungus that kills insects (Beuveria bassiana) This is sold under two brand names that I know of, Botinigard and Naturalis. This fungus is mixed with water and sprayed on the plants making direct contact with the aphids is important. This is one reason root aphids are so hard to control; there are so many nooks and crannies in soil and other mediums that almost any treatment is bound to miss a few pregnant females. In fact, one study I read showed that the number one reason for difficulty controlling root aphids is lack of proper application of the chemical or pathogen. I should mention too that the finer the mist the better. Also, since this fungus gets on the skin of aphids, and aphids that are growing rapidly can shed their skin every 3-5 days you should reapply the fungus every 3-5 days. In Europe they use a fungus Verticillium lecanii with much success. I think this is still in the process of being approved by the EPA, but you could do a search for it.

Second, you can apply chemicals like Neem, pyrethrum etc. to the roots and above ground parts of plants. For root aphids it is recommended you soak the root balls in an insecticide for 5 minutes. There are studies that show soaking in any insecticide for less than 5 min. will result in far less than 100% dead (you don’t fix the problem) so soak longer rather than shorter.Good article.

I have had root aphids for almost 2 years. HIt em with everything from Azamax to pyrethrin to Botanigard. Botanigard ES works best out of everything. From what I read on the BOTAINGARD ES its a fungus that kills them

http://htgsupplysaskthedoc.blogspot.com/2009/11/pests-e-mail-root-aphids.html this link will take you to what I have posted

I hope this will resolve your issues that your having
 

hellraizer30

Rebel From The North

afrawfraw

Well-Known Member
Buchnera aphidicola is a bacteria transmitted from mommy aphid to baby aphid. This bacteria supplies the aphid with the amino acids REQUIRED to feed. These two species CAN NOT live without each other. Destroy the bacteria, destroy the aphid. A simple antibiotic inoculation will sterilize the aphids, which will remove their ability to digest the root juices. So they starve. I suspect these Azatrol/Azomax products have this included. I would if I designed a product. :roll:
 

mellokitty

Moderatrix of Journals
*lighting a prayer candle for cg's room* (sorry, can't help ya, RA's are one of my biggest fears.)

just out of curiosity..... i guess you're looking for a granolahead-friendly way to control them?
 

collective gardener

Well-Known Member
Hit tray 2, which was in week 6.5, with Azomax at 15ml/gal. Harvested plants yesterday (7 days after application) and broke open rootball for inspection. All aphids were dead. Could not find a live one. This is not to say they weren't there. But, Azomax does work.

Tested a Pyrithrin (sp) that contains sulfur on one plant. Plant seems fine after 2 days. Going to hit everything with that stuff in a few days. I want to wait 7 days after the Azomax treatment.

I think I can knock this infestation back. My yield has taken a big hit. I'll get around 50% what I should've. Late diagnoses killed us. I thought it was overwatering, at first. Then I thought it was a mag def. It wasn't until my fucking dick head neighbor told me he had root aphids that I took action. My first mite free crop gets root aphids. I haven't had a pest free crop yet.

I guess Azomax will be used to prevent these fucks. Maybe one full dose and some weekly 1/4 strength doses? Any prevention ideas?
 

Wolverine97

Well-Known Member
Hit tray 2, which was in week 6.5, with Azomax at 15ml/gal. Harvested plants yesterday (7 days after application) and broke open rootball for inspection. All aphids were dead. Could not find a live one. This is not to say they weren't there. But, Azomax does work.

Tested a Pyrithrin (sp) that contains sulfur on one plant. Plant seems fine after 2 days. Going to hit everything with that stuff in a few days. I want to wait 7 days after the Azomax treatment.

I think I can knock this infestation back. My yield has taken a big hit. I'll get around 50% what I should've. Late diagnoses killed us. I thought it was overwatering, at first. Then I thought it was a mag def. It wasn't until my fucking dick head neighbor told me he had root aphids that I took action. My first mite free crop gets root aphids. I haven't had a pest free crop yet.

I guess Azomax will be used to prevent these fucks. Maybe one full dose and some weekly 1/4 strength doses? Any prevention ideas?
Spinosad. Azamax alone won't control them long term, trust me...
Spinosad is not a "chemical" insecticide, it's created from a bacteria IIRC. There aren't any special precautions to using it either, which is nice. Approved for edibles, and most importantly it works. Azamax will work at first, but if any escape the first couple of rounds you're in for a battle.
 
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