20,000 Watt Medical Grow Op Construction

collective gardener

collective gardener

Well-Known Member
curious2garden said:
CG I just HAD to post and (besides thanking you), ask you what the recent strain you gave me was? The first 1/2 ounce you gave me I'd take 1 puff and it would potentiate my morphine for 4 days! Seriously 1 puff of what you gave me was able to reduce my morphine intake anywhere from 50% to 75% for FOUR (4) days!! It was so strong. I still have a considerable portion left because it was so effective.

The new batch, another generous amount again, you gave me is incredibly more potent. I would call it an order of magnitude more potent. Hubby was so funny he kept repeating, "I don't feel anything", during the fourth repeat, he simply fell horizontal, mid-sentence, snoring and slept solid for the rest of the night. It was then I noticed that colors were changing etc.... I further noticed my body was NUMB! NUMB!! No pain nothing it was wonderful. I nestled into the recliner with this wonderful, warm, peaceful feeling washing over me like a comfy, familiar, blanket and slept without any interruption for the first time in 2 decades.

This new stuff you gave me is so much stronger it's scary strong. Anyway is this all the same strain? How do you select for strength? Yours is also pleasant to smoke. How do you accomplish that? I had tried some from the local dispensaries and not only was it painful to smoke but it did little for my pain. What you do is incredible. I am still stumbling along with my own minor grow so it just amazes me to no end you can grow something this consistently effective for pain. You really know your stuff and I am so grateful I found you.
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Wow. Thank you very much. The strain is Pre-98 Bubba Kush. Access to this strain is what made me want to get back into growing full time. The guy who gave me the cuts is on a lifetime quest for the best genetics anywhere. He has since given me 2 other elite strains. These genetics are the foundation of what we do. Without them we would just be another commercial grow op. Not to brag, butI have tried the Bubba Kush at dozens of so cal dispensaries and none of it was close to the quality that we grow. No serious buyer has ever turned down an Lb or a 5 pack of this Bub. We are lucky to have it.

As good as the Pre-98 is, the new D-Bub is better. The buds are bigger, the plants are healthier, and the smell is a bit stronger. All we know is that the mom of the D-Bub is our Pre-98, and it may have been back crossed again with the Pre-98. So, it's between 50% and 75% Pre-98, and the rest is a secret the breeder keeps. The only downside of the D-Bub is that it's a light, nute, and water hog. Deprive it of anything and the buds end up quite smaller than they would otherwise. It's a plant best grown hydro.

The new Tahoe is our super star. All we know is that a Tahoe pheno was selected from hundreds sewn. That was crossed with a Chem 91, the great grandfather of all OG's. The result is simply amazing. Everyone I give it to smells it and says "Finally, a real full blown OG". I started buying grams of OG's from other dispensaries to see how ours measured up. It wasn't even close. That Tahoe is the best OG out there hands down. I have already turned down 2 very good offers for a tray of cuts from it. Right now I won't sell a cut for any price. It's these genetics that make our little collective kind of special. We don't want to give that away.

Anyways, thanks again for the kind words. I'm glad the meds help you. Let me know when you need more...as always, on the house.
 
collective gardener

collective gardener

Well-Known Member
Bubba 8 weeks.jpgDrying 1.jpgDrying 2.jpgFlushed.jpgNew Batch 2.jpgNew batch 3.jpgNew Batch1.jpgTahoe 2.jpgTahoe 9 weeks.jpgThis Tahoe pic looks just like the Tahoe seed advertisement.

The above pics show the bloom room. Tray one is bubba at 7-8 weeks. These were seriously stunted with root aphids.

Tray 2 is at 2 weeks. These too took a root aphid hit. Most ended up short on mag. I believe problem is now under control. Most yellowing has greened up. The brown, of course, is brown forever.

Since mag needs to be very abundant (even though uptake is very light) it's the first to show with most root problems. I used massive mag on roots and as foilar spray to keep these plants just alive.
 
K

kamie

Active Member
collective gardener said:
View attachment 2022701View attachment 2022702View attachment 2022703View attachment 2022704View attachment 2022705View attachment 2022706View attachment 2022707View attachment 2022708View attachment 2022709This Tahoe pic looks just like the Tahoe seed advertisement.

The above pics show the bloom room. Tray one is bubba at 7-8 weeks. These were seriously stunted with root aphids.

Tray 2 is at 2 weeks. These too took a root aphid hit. Most ended up short on mag. I believe problem is now under control. Most yellowing has greened up. The brown, of course, is brown forever.

Since mag needs to be very abundant (even though uptake is very light) it's the first to show with most root problems. I used massive mag on roots and as foilar spray to keep these plants just alive.
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even with the problem youre having they still look great CG
 
T

tommyo3000

Well-Known Member
collective gardener said:
These were seriously stunted with root aphids.

Tray 2 is at 2 weeks. These too took a root aphid hit. Most ended up short on mag. I believe problem is now under control. Most yellowing has greened up. The brown, of course, is brown forever.

Since mag needs to be very abundant (even though uptake is very light) it's the first to show with most root problems. I used massive mag on roots and as foilar spray to keep these plants just alive.
Click to expand...

Not sure how your root aphid problem is going but this stuff is from lowes and it works wonders on root aphids and fungus gnat larvae. It is very cheap and works well.. It has a pre-harvest interval that is short, so you can use during some parts of flower. I have run it in a reservoir before, too..

http://www.bayeradvanced.com/insects-pests/products/fruit-citrus-vegetable-insect-control

701520a.jpg
 
Wolverine97

Wolverine97

Well-Known Member
collective gardener said:
View attachment 2022701View attachment 2022702View attachment 2022703View attachment 2022704View attachment 2022705View attachment 2022706View attachment 2022707View attachment 2022708View attachment 2022709This Tahoe pic looks just like the Tahoe seed advertisement.

The above pics show the bloom room. Tray one is bubba at 7-8 weeks. These were seriously stunted with root aphids.

Tray 2 is at 2 weeks. These too took a root aphid hit. Most ended up short on mag. I believe problem is now under control. Most yellowing has greened up. The brown, of course, is brown forever.

Since mag needs to be very abundant (even though uptake is very light) it's the first to show with most root problems. I used massive mag on roots and as foilar spray to keep these plants just alive.
Click to expand...
I hear ya, it's pretty crazy to me just how badly they affect nutrient uptake.
 
curious2garden

curious2garden

Well-Known Mod
Staff member
collective gardener said:
......snip......
The above pics show the bloom room. Tray one is bubba at 7-8 weeks. These were seriously stunted with root aphids.

Tray 2 is at 2 weeks. These too took a root aphid hit. Most ended up short on mag. I believe problem is now under control. Most yellowing has greened up. The brown, of course, is brown forever.

Since mag needs to be very abundant (even though uptake is very light) it's the first to show with most root problems. I used massive mag on roots and as foilar spray to keep these plants just alive.
Click to expand...
WOW is all I can say. This is just beyond beautiful! My perfectly healthy ones don't look near as good as your problem children. You are simply amazing.
 
collective gardener

collective gardener

Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the nice comments. I will be trying some of that Bayer product. After an exhaustive inter-web search, I've found some facts about root aphids:

1. They are a new problem in weed gardens. Very little info about them prior to 2010.
2. They are FAR worse than spider mites, thrips, and reg aphids combined! Left un treated, or treated late, the entire crop is at peril. From early mag def signs to total crop loss can be as little as a few days.
3. They thrive in extremely airy mixes. Commercial J uses rockwool croutons and 30% #4 perlite in 10 qt containers. When we split a root ball in half, the inner medium was almost solid black with aphids and aphis bodies. Infestation in rockwool blocks happens slower. A friend who drip feeds Hydrotons went from the first signs to total loss in 4 days.
4. The 3 most recommended treatments are Azomax, Pyrithrum, and Bayer. The key is maximum insect toxicity and minimum plant effect. This makes Azomax a poor choice. It does kill them, but the plant takes a hit. Pyrithrum is great if you can just get the 5% pyri in water concentrate. Do not use oil suspended stuff. I have not tried the Bayer.
5.I believe that the best treatment is Avid. Avid is a hardcore broad spectrum insecticide that can be sprayed on the leaves as well. This is important as those fuckers run right up the plant when the roots are treated. Avid does not hurt the plant AT ALL when used at 8 oz per 100 gallons of water. Avid is also a great second insecticide next to Floromite for mites.
6. High N super charges the infestation. Try to cut the N way down and load up on the Cal Mag during treatment. Instead of pure water on Sunday flush day, I use 500ppm of Cal Mag. This with foiliar spray can help reverse the chlorosis.
7. No matter what, if the aphids have caused visable damage, yield will be affected. I would consider a 30% yield reduction lucky. Depending on what stage the fucks hit you, it could make sense to just toss the plants and start over.
8. CLEAN YOUR ROOM!!!!
 
mellokitty

mellokitty

Moderatrix of Journals
collective gardener said:
Thanks for all the nice comments. I will be trying some of that Bayer product. After an exhaustive inter-web search, I've found some facts about root aphids:

1. They are a new problem in weed gardens. Very little info about them prior to 2010.
2. They are FAR worse than spider mites, thrips, and reg aphids combined! Left un treated, or treated late, the entire crop is at peril. From early mag def signs to total crop loss can be as little as a few days.
3. They thrive in extremely airy mixes. Commercial J uses rockwool croutons and 30% #4 perlite in 10 qt containers. When we split a root ball in half, the inner medium was almost solid black with aphids and aphis bodies. Infestation in rockwool blocks happens slower. A friend who drip feeds Hydrotons went from the first signs to total loss in 4 days.
4. The 3 most recommended treatments are Azomax, Pyrithrum, and Bayer. The key is maximum insect toxicity and minimum plant effect. This makes Azomax a poor choice. It does kill them, but the plant takes a hit. Pyrithrum is great if you can just get the 5% pyri in water concentrate. Do not use oil suspended stuff. I have not tried the Bayer.
5.I believe that the best treatment is Avid. Avid is a hardcore broad spectrum insecticide that can be sprayed on the leaves as well. This is important as those fuckers run right up the plant when the roots are treated. Avid does not hurt the plant AT ALL when used at 8 oz per 100 gallons of water. Avid is also a great second insecticide next to Floromite for mites.
6. High N super charges the infestation. Try to cut the N way down and load up on the Cal Mag during treatment. Instead of pure water on Sunday flush day, I use 500ppm of Cal Mag. This with foiliar spray can help reverse the chlorosis.
7. No matter what, if the aphids have caused visable damage, yield will be affected. I would consider a 30% yield reduction lucky. Depending on what stage the fucks hit you, it could make sense to just toss the plants and start over.
8. CLEAN YOUR ROOM!!!!
Click to expand...
what a fantastic post.
i feel like a villager who's learned that the polio has spread to the next town over..... we are quaking with fear about them.
 
K

kamie

Active Member
collective gardener said:
Thanks for all the nice comments. I will be trying some of that Bayer product. After an exhaustive inter-web search, I've found some facts about root aphids:

1. They are a new problem in weed gardens. Very little info about them prior to 2010.
2. They are FAR worse than spider mites, thrips, and reg aphids combined! Left un treated, or treated late, the entire crop is at peril. From early mag def signs to total crop loss can be as little as a few days.
3. They thrive in extremely airy mixes. Commercial J uses rockwool croutons and 30% #4 perlite in 10 qt containers. When we split a root ball in half, the inner medium was almost solid black with aphids and aphis bodies. Infestation in rockwool blocks happens slower. A friend who drip feeds Hydrotons went from the first signs to total loss in 4 days.
4. The 3 most recommended treatments are Azomax, Pyrithrum, and Bayer. The key is maximum insect toxicity and minimum plant effect. This makes Azomax a poor choice. It does kill them, but the plant takes a hit. Pyrithrum is great if you can just get the 5% pyri in water concentrate. Do not use oil suspended stuff. I have not tried the Bayer.
5.I believe that the best treatment is Avid. Avid is a hardcore broad spectrum insecticide that can be sprayed on the leaves as well. This is important as those fuckers run right up the plant when the roots are treated. Avid does not hurt the plant AT ALL when used at 8 oz per 100 gallons of water. Avid is also a great second insecticide next to Floromite for mites.
6. High N super charges the infestation. Try to cut the N way down and load up on the Cal Mag during treatment. Instead of pure water on Sunday flush day, I use 500ppm of Cal Mag. This with foiliar spray can help reverse the chlorosis.
7. No matter what, if the aphids have caused visable damage, yield will be affected. I would consider a 30% yield reduction lucky. Depending on what stage the fucks hit you, it could make sense to just toss the plants and start over.
8. CLEAN YOUR ROOM!!!!
Click to expand...
i dont kno if this is a stupid question, but how do you get root aphids? i just wanna know so i can take precautions to keep my rooms clean and root aphids free.
 
curious2garden

curious2garden

Well-Known Mod
Staff member
collective gardener said:
Thanks for all the nice comments. I will be trying some of that Bayer product. .....snip....
Click to expand...


Thank you CG for such good information. I immediately went to learn about the Bayer product, just in case. I thought I'd post what I found since it might be of interest to others.

It's active ingredient is Imidacloprid, which is a Neonicotinoid. Here is some about that:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Imidacloprid

Then the link to the actual product documentation on Bayer:
http://www.bayeradvanced.com/insects-pests/products/fruit-citrus-vegetable-insect-control/sizes

Thank you so much with your honest and up front attitude in this. So many professional growers would try to hide these things and that just makes it worse. These issues are another good reason why I think you are so right when you said we need some type of Cannabis Growers group/lobby. Best practices could be shared and memorialized to help others and ensure safety of the end user and the grow room workers etc...
 
SFguy

SFguy

Well-Known Member
wow CG thats horrible, a good friend lost 1/2 his crop too root aphids, its a shitty thing watching them die slowly, he didnt know what was wrong untill they were already too far gone, just necrotic, black dead plant tissue everywhere
 
K

koolshades

Member
Is 8oz of Avid per 100 gallons fairly strong? We've used 1/2 tspn in a gallon before for spraying. My friend runs a 250 gallon DWC system with rockwool in 8 inch net pots. He got root aphids and dipped each plant with their long roots in a 5 gallon bucket with water and Avid and also sprayed everything a few times. It looks like it's under control now. Could he just add some Avid to the Rez if they come back?
 
collective gardener

collective gardener

Well-Known Member
koolshades said:
Is 8oz of Avid per 100 gallons fairly strong? We've used 1/2 tspn in a gallon before for spraying. My friend runs a 250 gallon DWC system with rockwool in 8 inch net pots. He got root aphids and dipped each plant with their long roots in a 5 gallon bucket with water and Avid and also sprayed everything a few times. It looks like it's under control now. Could he just add some Avid to the Rez if they come back?
Click to expand...
Avid calls for 8 to 16 oz/100 gallons for aphids. That's approx 1oz per 12 gallons. It reduces to about 4ml per gallon. Dipping the rootbal is the way to go. But, with a DWC settup it would be super important to treat the whole system at same time. Personally, I would treat all the rez water and dip the plants at the same time. Then, a week later, I would top flush the rockwool filled net pots with Avid again. Then, a week later, I would treat the whole system with Pyrithrum twice. A 250 gallon system is going to make complete coverage treatments very expensive. But, if you just treat the plants, there could still be aphids and larva in the water, just waiting for the plants to come back. This is yet another reason most commercial gardens use drain to waste systems. I recently purchased a CAP EBB and Flow bucket system for fun. After puting it together it became obvious it was not for me for just these reasons.

The beauty of Avid is that it's so easy on the plants. I wouldn't take any chances with root aphids. Pull out all the stops right off the bat.
 
mike91sr

mike91sr

Well-Known Member
collective gardener said:
I wouldn't take any chances with root aphids. Pull out all the stops right off the bat.
Click to expand...
Good advice. I learned the same thing the hard way with spider mites. Trying to do as little as I could to get rid of them just made the treatments drag on for 2 months, and even though I kept them mostly under control, they didn't fully go away until I finally said fuck it and starting rotating treatments of azamax, pyrethrin sprays/bombs, and neem oil. But by then the damage was still done.
 
Fnominon

Fnominon

Active Member
I have a half gallon sprayer and I would only put in a quarter teaspoon of Avid in it for each run. After two treatments all my spider mites and thryps were gone for good, "I think its been about 4 or 5 months now."
 
jyermum

jyermum

Active Member
mike91sr said:
Good advice. I learned the same thing the hard way with spider mites. Trying to do as little as I could to get rid of them just made the treatments drag on for 2 months, and even though I kept them mostly under control, they didn't fully go away until I finally said fuck it and starting rotating treatments of azamax, pyrethrin sprays/bombs, and neem oil. But by then the damage was still done.
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Like you found out its a big mistake to go easy on grow pests. I had a spidermite population that would use Floromite as mouthwash and aftershave. By trying to use just enough and not too much I wound up making a colony of super bugs. now when anything shows up I hit 'em hard and rotate treatments.
 
J

jpill

Well-Known Member
What up Collective! Man i'm like 10 pages in and going to keep reading ! . Fucking 230 pages is brutal ! I'm in the middle of starting a delivery service and have a non-profit already in place although it hasn't really taken off , the business is there. I'm currently trying to relocate to a commerical warehouse in SLO. Its a smaller warehouse with 3 phase power, an office and bathroom, roll-up doors. I was wondering if you could give me some pointers on the scheme of things and what to expect as far as building by code.

My partner is an old head with 15 years of electric and AC experience . Only problem is he lives in a non medical state and is going to make the push out here. I am flying him out here in a few months and were going to get to work. Dealing with only residential areas this is a totally new experience to me. If you have time could you school me on a few mistakes not to make ?! If not its cool, i figured i'd ask you as you're one of the only people on here really doing it on a large scale and legit. I think you said something about the sheriff coming around ? I expect a visit from good old johnny law should I also expect the fire chief as well? As far as building by code , that's not a problem I would rather build correctly and avoid costly future mistakes. Did you go by code or just build! Did anyone (inspectors, fire chief) they come in and eye fuck the shit out of your room looking for mistakes?lololol. just a few Q's for ya. I appreciate the journal as this would def. serve a basis to my project !
Thanks again in advance. Also if you need patients , let me know i'll sign up for your collective.
 
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