1600Kw vertical grow tent. Hybrid Aero/RDWC build.

drekoushranada

Well-Known Member
Yeah, that is what you are brewing up. Microbes and fungi that you feed outside your res. They multiply into the billions. Really makes those products last a long long time and work much more efficiently.
So what product would you suggest if I wanted to keep my res sterile?
 

BendBrewer

Well-Known Member
Heisenberg uses ZHO powder for the fungi Aquashield for the bacteria and EWC for a diversity of microorganisms.

I used General Hydroponics' Subculture in place of the ZHO powder as I couldn't find ZHO.

When making 3 gallons of tea, I use 1 scoop of the powder a shot of Aquashield and 2 handfuls of EWC and 3 TBS of Molasses. That'll give me 2 weeks of tea at a fraction of the cost of adding those products to the res.
 

Jozikins

Well-Known Member
Heisenberg makes a great Tea. I sort of just ran with his ideas, and borrowed some from VermiT as well (the co-owner always comes into our dispensary) and my plants fucking LOVE it.

I use Tea because my res is always between 65-72, so I'm really safe using it, but I don't know at higher temps. The friend I am constantly referencing just chopped down 6 SFV OG's out of a recirculating DWC system in a 4x4 tent. a few weeks ago, if even that, he had his Blue Dream disaster in the filing cabinet with all the mold, bud rot, and root rot.
Anyways, his reservoir temps seem to be about the same in both the cab and the tent, but these SFV's were all champs, with NO ROOT DISEASE and they were in the same hot water as the Blue Dream, the difference was that it was a recirculating system, constantly churning in new oxygen, just like your system does. He also had 45-55 gallons of water in the system, so that helped a lot too. But he was using the Heisenberg Tea, and not only did his plants love it, but they had VERY healthy white roots, with no mold or disease the entire grow, even with a cab sharing ventilation with his tent, that was loaded with mold spores!!

I know that information was kind of confusing with me saying "No tea, yes tea" but it is only because I'm still figuring it out myself. I just started reading this months issue of Urban Garden, it is all about organic gardening and brewing teas. So I'm still learning. But so far it seems like an excellent idea to keep your reservoir fresh, but at the same time it has the ability to go completely south. It all seems easy enough to understand, just read up on it. Search for "Heisenberg Tea" here on RIU, that is a great source! I also am talking to the VermiT guys, as well as referencing my Urban Garden magazine. I'm about to actually borrow my friend's Organic Chemistry book, so I can get a better science-based understanding of all this.

H2O2 will keep things sterile, some people swear by it.... But I'm having a lot of fun brewing my own tea, and I'm saving money. I have so much tea after a brew my outdoor plants look amazing as well. Now my neighbors don't wonder why some of the plants in my yard look like crap while I'm always unloading soil and fertilizer out of my truck.
Right now they just think I'm farming annual's to sell the local nursery, and I do a good job of having Morning Glories always growing in pots around the house. No I don't get high off of them... I know a chemist for that reason.
 

drekoushranada

Well-Known Member
Some pics of the ladies. The strains in the 10" net pots arenot taking off like the ones in the 3" net pots. I think the reason is because it is taking them a longer time for there roots to hit the water. Once that happens im sure they will rocket off. They just need to hurry up and do it. :lol:
 

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Jozikins

Well-Known Member
Some pics of the ladies. The strains in the 10" net pots arenot taking off like the ones in the 3" net pots. I think the reason is because it is taking them a longer time for there roots to hit the water. Once that happens im sure they will rocket off. They just need to hurry up and do it. :lol:
That is exactly why it's taking them longer. Go ahead and start top feeding them every now and then.

Some of them look sad. Maybe they do need more food. What do you think? Do they look better or worse since the res change? I hate giving advice on seedlings! It's hard to tell what's going on until you have them in your hands.
 

drekoushranada

Well-Known Member
That is exactly why it's taking them longer. Go ahead and start top feeding them every now and then.

Some of them look sad. Maybe they do need more food. What do you think? Do they look better or worse since the res change? I hate giving advice on seedlings! It's hard to tell what's going on until you have them in your hands.
Well they are looking better since the res change. I did top feed them this morning and they seem to have loved it. They have only been in this system for about a week. I just need them to hurry up and pop their roots through the net pots. Anyway to speed up that root growth?
 

Robert Paulson

Active Member
Well I wouldn't say they are full of shit. I'll post an article about this as soon as I can find it, but over feeding your plants can have traumatic results on your yields and flavor! Mineral salts are bounded, and let's say your plants are in desperate need of Phosphorus, but are over loaded with Sodium, well your source of P happens to be TSP (old school I know, it was the first example that came to mind) so your plants cannot take up any more Phosphorus without taking up more Sodium. Well because we bumped up the PPM's so high we now not only have plenty of Sodium, but a Sodium toxicity. This means the plant will have a hard time getting rid of this build up, so if it is close to crop we will have crackling and harsh buds. Not only this, but plants with a nutrient toxicity lose their resistance to disease like root rot, bud rot, and powdery mildew. Like I said, 100ppm's has been the difference between a crop of 6 week plants finishing up, or a crop of plants infested with root rot.

There was more than just res temps that screwed my friend over with mold, he also ran his PPM's well into the 2000's, and because of this he could not control is pH. When you cannot control your pH certain nutrients separate from their original chemical forms and turn into a cloudy solution your plants cannot take up, this begins different toxicities which start deficiencies else where, in the end your plants get disease and bug attacks.
Who's full of shit? I've never had a problem, but I am also E&B not DWC.
 

Jozikins

Well-Known Member
Well they are looking better since the res change. I did top feed them this morning and they seem to have loved it. They have only been in this system for about a week. I just need them to hurry up and pop their roots through the net pots. Anyway to speed up that root growth?
Love is about all you can give them, or you can buy a root enhancing product. "Roots Excelurator" (that's how they spell it, not me,) and "Clonex" are too good products. If you buy Clonex (or Olivia's) make sure you get the solution, not the gel.

Who's full of shit? I've never had a problem, but I am also E&B not DWC.
People that don't go over 1000ppm's. I've seen some dynamite harvests that never went over 1000ppms. I just have too many additives to pull that off. I never normally go over 850ppm on my base A&B, but I have so much good shit I always end up between 900-1300 during flower.
 

drekoushranada

Well-Known Member
Love is about all you can give them, or you can buy a root enhancing product. "Roots Excelurator" (that's how they spell it, not me,) and "Clonex" are too good products. If you buy Clonex (or Olivia's) make sure you get the solution, not the gel.



People that don't go over 1000ppm's. I've seen some dynamite harvests that never went over 1000ppms. I just have too many additives to pull that off. I never normally go over 850ppm on my base A&B, but I have so much good shit I always end up between 900-1300 during flower.
I willlet them grow as they please. I just think they are using so much energy trying to get the roots to the sauce that it is slowing their upward growth. I think I may start using a drip system on them to blast their upward growth off. What do you all think about this? I must say that this system is some fun running.
 

drekoushranada

Well-Known Member
I made some modifications to the system.
1. I added a 12" airstone to each rez.
2. I put in a drip irrigation set up to help with the root line of the plants in the 10" net pots. I hope the plants love what I did for them. They were looking pretty hungry. The 2nd 600 watt mh will be added next week. I want to vegg them until they get 20-30":mrgreen: Not sure how long that will take. The node growth on the plants has been super tight. To the point that I wont be mad if they stretched just a little bit.;-)
 

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Jozikins

Well-Known Member
I made some modifications to the system.
1. I added a 12" airstone to each rez.
2. I put in a drip irrigation set up to help with the root line of the plants in the 10" net pots. I hope the plants love what I did for them. They were looking pretty hungry. The 2nd 600 watt mh will be added next week. I want to vegg them until they get 20-30":mrgreen: Not sure how long that will take. The node growth on the plants has been super tight. To the point that I wont be mad if they stretched just a little bit.;-)
If I was a seedling, I know I would love that. 20-30" might be a little tall considering your roof is only 84" You have to consider the size of your planter and the fact that your plants can stretch anywhere between 1/3 their size to 3x their size.
Then again, with your choice in seedlings (minus the bag seed) I bet they won't stretch more than 1/3 for most of them.
 

drekoushranada

Well-Known Member
The wwxbb in the pic has some dry leaves on it. Im not sure what the problem is though. Any ideas? The sprout leaves (the ones that start eith a "C") are turning yellow. What can this be?
 

Jozikins

Well-Known Member
Totally natural. Plants shed those first sprout leaves as soon as they can. If you pull one off you'll notice it pull off a protective casing from the stem, all this shit is going to fall of eventually, don't sweat it. Just don't pull it off! Let it do it naturally so you don't damage the tender your seedling. At any other stage in a plants life we manually remove dying portions of the plant, but right now we let it roll. If you a have a few that insist on staying long after the rest have fallen, then you can go ahead and make a manual attempt at removing them.
 

Jozikins

Well-Known Member
Don't worry too much. 6.5 is the highest you can go, but you can still grow in it. Bump it on down to 5.8- 5.9, if you can't check it every day bump it down to 5.6-5.7, and hopefully it'll sit at 5.8 for longer.
 

drekoushranada

Well-Known Member
Cool. It looks like I wont be able to get a chiller so I think I will be brewing up some bennies. Will these do great with temps in the 70's?? I would hate to get root rot and slime!!
 

Jozikins

Well-Known Member
All you need to start is earthworm castings, molasses and mycorrhizae. Molasses you can get from any grocery store. They sell horticulture grade molasses, I have some but that is because it was gifted, but I used to use normal unsulfured molasses. Sulfur is a benefit though, it is not common to get a Sulfur deficiency, but i have experienced it in the past, with 2 strains in particular.

You can get worm castings from any good nursery, molasses you can get at the grocery store or hydro store, I know the Hi-Brix by Earth Juice is thinner and easier to pour, it is also a very reasonable 18 bucks for 1 gallon. But if you get the grocery store stuff just pop a pre measured amount into the microwave and heat it for a few seconds to soften it up. I like to use a ceramic espresso shot glass for that. Mycorrhizae you can get from a variety of hydroponic outlets and from high end nurserys. You can find it in a liquid or powdered form, but powder goes a lot further. The best part about teas is that you only need a little bit, the idea is that it breeds and multiplies in the bucket so you can make a product that is only good for 50 servings, and make 150 servings out of it.

Optional and recommended additives:
Sea Kelp extract (powdered is preferred for this application)
Guano; bat or seabird; I prefer Jamaican Bat Guano for it's high PK ratio
Fish Emulsion
Nematodes, they defend your plant from fungus gnats and root aphids!
Any product for plants that says "microbe," "bacteria," "fungi," and of course, trichoderma.
 
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