Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
13.5 light 10.5 dark right?
Why do some guys wats to still use mono led with cobs?
- Thread starter REALSTYLES
- Start date
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
When will you be selling your uv-b chips to quickly buy online and have shipped to us in a few days time?
URSA LED
Well-Known Member
what size light is that hanging? and how much for the heatsink?
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
I've been thinking about how one implements a light source twice as bright as a DE, and honestly I'm having a little trouble. I'm currently using a very popular COB combination at just 50W apiece. I created an array with them that evenly distributes light across a large surface and the COBs are only 16" from the canopy.
A monster COB by itself is certainly no improvement. I'm still interested in the design, spectrum, etc.
Corso312
Well-Known Member
The design is sick..but if it doesn't function well for growing then its kinda useless to me or you. Very interested in the footprint it throws.
Corso312
Well-Known Member
Hi Bobby,
It would not affect our ppfd readings
Give one of those bad boys to Supra to play with, he will give it the thumbs up or down.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Don't get me wrong here; I'm not running down the chip, nor am I saying that it can't be a great horticultural light source. I'm just having an issue trying to figure out how to use it effectively.
pop22
Well-Known Member
sorry if this has been asked, haven't gone thru the whole thread. My question is, how much light is actually reaching the plant when your only adding a few extra LEDs? and is it really helping when they only can light a small portion of the plant? seems like a waste of LEDs and power to me to light a few leaves. I'm with Realstyles on this one.
littlejacob
Well-Known Member
Bonjour
If you have 4000ºk cob it is a good idea to add 660nm
730nm at light off is good too...it is proven fact...so yes sometimes it is cool to use diodes!
And there's some as efficient as cob some more...depend on how your cob are efficient!
But I guess if you go with 3500ºk you don't need to add anything except for 730nm!
CU
febisfebi
Well-Known Member
I'm glad to hear you got your COB setup up and running, im sorry to hear you are having trouble, sounds like you have them setup how your supposed to for proper distribution. I'm curious though, are you seeing odd trends on your plants, or just not getting the horsepower you were expecting? I am interested in upgrading to a more efficient light source, and have been exploring options, but I am a long way out from spending the kind of money neccesary to get proper coverage.
I have thought about a monster cob made up of many regular CXB3590's much like the "CREE high bay luminaire" except with more diodes and different or a mix of color temps. But I have no evidence that this would help get the light to where we need it Just a way to cover a larger area from further away. But a much bigger single LED could be different, just depends on the design/engineering that went into it.
I have been exploring other non COB options before I start making decisions. I was curious if you knew much about the new remote phospor led? if I go the LED route, which seems like the most likely future standard, maybe this will be the one to splurge on. 96,000 hr life and supposedly customizable full spectrum. Expensive though im sure. But it will come down.
I have been looking at IUNU plasma's recently mainly because I am trying to find a better source for UVB. I have been using 26w repti-glo's and I see now how important UVB is. The plants/tops closest to be bulbs have noticeably more trichomes, although I try to rotate them out as much as possible, but this is silly. I need a better source. They are only good for 6 months max, which sucks. They also are 10 times more powerful at 4" than they are at 16" so their range sucks, so you need a lot of them, which gets expensive to buy over and over.
But another real nice effect of having UVB is that it goes a long way towards keeping the spider mites away, which to me is a huge plus. They hate it. The more UVB the better the effect. less sprays and other crap, and better quality
I first started looking into the company that makes the IUNU plasma's, since microsoft had a team of engineers decide that they were the best light source for growing vegetables in their cafeteria, and I had a chance to speak with their project manager, I was impressed that were able to produce the same 1850 umols that a regular 1KW HPS with only 500w and a very impressive full spectrum. Thats 500w from the wall as well. No extra efficiency lost in drivers. Is it true that this would be more efficient power wise than the CXB3590? Plus they put out a huge amount of UVB and UVA compared with what im using now. The problem is that you have to replace the $80 bulb once a year, so were back to that...
I was just curious what you or anyone else thought about these lights as an alternative to COB led. at $2500 a unit, that seems scary, but theres a $1500 utility rebate, that is available to some, if not all, I am looking into the details, but that could make it a little less scary.
They should be good for a 4' x 4' @ 1100 umol which is $800 in COB's assuming 1 per sq ft. Plus drivers, and no need for UVB bulbs, it might just be worth it. but the long term bulb replacement does not excite me.
I just hope they come out with UVB COB's soon. I know they are working on it.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
First, I'm having exactly NO trouble with my own COB LED setup; I was referring to the introduction of COB LED chips that can use up to 2400W- each!
Second, I looked at plasma years ago and I was not impressed. I'm also not interested in lighting that has a large UV component 'inherent' in the spectrum, as I want to be able to shut it off when people are in there.
COB LED is coming down in price, fast.
Not sure where folks got stuck on one COB per square foot, but that notion is as silly as discussing how many pairs of sneakers it will cost to drive to Chicago.
COB LED comes in a huge variety of outputs, my own array runs two COBs over every three square feet.
They already have UVB COB LED chips; they're expensive and don't last very long, lol I understand things are improving.
The bet I took was that my COB LED chips will perform for many years without significant maintenance other than cleaning the glass lenses occasionally. If I decide I need UVB I can add that at any time, and have it on a separate circuit that can be switched off so people don't get sunburns and retinal damage.
Scotch089
Well-Known Member
Just wanted to point sometging out I noticed in the garden the other day;
11 xpe 670s going from 300ma-700ma raises my center umols on my apogee about 55 at 24" away, for scale purposes it's about 400 umols white light and 55 red light. (Right now, the builds white light can achieve ~800umols)
Definitely worth the "trouble" adding the right colors if you ask me. (11% red)
11 xpe 670s going from 300ma-700ma raises my center umols on my apogee about 55 at 24" away, for scale purposes it's about 400 umols white light and 55 red light. (Right now, the builds white light can achieve ~800umols)
Definitely worth the "trouble" adding the right colors if you ask me. (11% red)
old apogee or the newer sq-500 ?
Scotch089
Well-Known Member
Yea old Sq 200 I believe
Hybridway
Well-Known Member
Personally, I think my Monochromes that surround my COBs are great. They give me the option to have a veg mode, increase my CRI to 95+ But is more efficient then using a high CRI COB which couldn't fill the action spectrum alone anyways. They allow for higher Par #'s then running COBs alone, fulfill the Action Spectrum our plants truly need better then any RQE light or Kelvin temp. I mean the spectral chart shows it right there guys. Plants respond crazy to the super full spectrum given by the enhancement.
Until a true Full Spectrum or Hortricultural COB or whatever tech comes out, I think the monos around the COB is 100% the way to go. What are you just gonna ignore the Chloraphyl A+B chart most you swore by for years? Ohhh, R+B is all you need, remember that? Ok, made a lil sense then, so know we know more, combine the two-Hybridway.
May be a lil tougher on the DIY, but it can't be that bad. Or just add more COBs, whatever floats your boat. I'm w/ Mono/COB combo. Bought mine that way so it was easy! Amare baby!
Until a true Full Spectrum or Hortricultural COB or whatever tech comes out, I think the monos around the COB is 100% the way to go. What are you just gonna ignore the Chloraphyl A+B chart most you swore by for years? Ohhh, R+B is all you need, remember that? Ok, made a lil sense then, so know we know more, combine the two-Hybridway.
May be a lil tougher on the DIY, but it can't be that bad. Or just add more COBs, whatever floats your boat. I'm w/ Mono/COB combo. Bought mine that way so it was easy! Amare baby!
BOBBY_G
Well-Known Member
im going with 15 xpe 660s per 6 cob bar (5 cutter triple stars interspersed with 6 3590s). thats about 25-35W of straight 660 per 200W of cobs on a 4' bar
also 4 730s per bar
plenty of heat sink real estate there
quick and dirty epoxy those stars on there, all are solderless. photos to follow
also 4 730s per bar
plenty of heat sink real estate there
quick and dirty epoxy those stars on there, all are solderless. photos to follow
Last edited: