Why do some guys wats to still use mono led with cobs?

Add mono's to cobs?

  • Total voters
    116
Hybridway

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
For the past 4 months I've been experimenting w/ colors & K-Temps in my T-5. Tried spectrums that were high in R+B. Tried Kelvin Temps. Ultimately the best results came from this spectrum in Veg. Had 6 in a 5'x7' closet w/ a 600 w Ushio MH & 6 under the 432 w T-5 at this select spectrum. The differance was night n day. 5x the growth, health & roots under the T-5. Until now I went 1 month under the T-5, then 1 under the MH, then off to the big room for another 1-2 weeks of Hortrilux Blue before flower. Now I'll be just using the T-5 prior to going in the room.
I'm telling you, their is absolutely NO Kelvin Temp that can grow like the enhanced white. Thicker, darker leaves, mega stalks, roots galore, fat stocky bushes w/ super close internodal spacing.
If you guys build your DIY's w/ monos & the right amounts of each, you will not be sorry. I know so many get such great results w/ their whites alone that it's hard to believe. But if you have the time to experiment for yourselves, you'll see I'm not BS'ng.
At least the majority of us know how important a full spectrum is. Now try taking it to the next level! 4 whites & 4 colored w/ green spikes. The proper nanometers heightened w/ white will outperform anything. Or vice-versa.
image.jpg
 
Hybridway

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
febisfebi

febisfebi

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
They actually said that LED lighting is just 14% efficient, and then they want to make us believe this horseshit by telling us they're MIT?!

First, my fucking standard production Cree chips currently operate in excess of 55% efficiency and there are literally thousands of test results backing this figure up. So that's a lie.

Second, even if these chuckle heads ARE getting 40% efficiency from an incandescent lamp, that's still only 70% as good as my setup, and THIRD, they haven't addressed durability at all.

I smell a big, stinking pile of bullshit.
Click to expand...
HAH so much for MIT. This sure makes them look smart, lol. When I first read that, of course I had smoked some good shit, so when they threw out that idea that 95% of the energy is being "lost to the atmosphere" I am thinking, they are talking about energy losses on all levels, from the bulb, to the wall, to losses in the hundreds of miles of power lines, and the aging grid itself, and all the way to the energy being "thrown out into the atmosphere" at the actual power plant. All of which, im sure would add up to a lot more than 95% in that case.
so when they list numbers like 14% for led's im still thinking on that same track, but now that I re read that, it makes no sense at all. Our light source, (or their new fancy new light source) have no influence on the efficiency of anything past the plug in the wall.
CREE Cob chips are ~55% efficient like you said, the only additional loss to that would be the dc power supply which can have as little as 4 or 5%, which is hardly a dealbreaker in that regard. so your total efficiency from the wall, might be around 50% or so, depending on if you buy a quality driver or a 82% efficient dc power supply on ebay.
That is all they could legitimately compare their efficiency to. The only real difference is the 100CRI, which at 40% efficiency, if applied correctly could maybe be useful in supplemental lighting. At least in the ballpark of efficiency, but no where near the ridiculous amount they make it sound like.

@ttystikk What do you think about the monster COB's you were talking about, do you think they make a nice multi-angle overlap system in a warehouse setting, just like you guys are doing with an array of spread out smaller COB's, on some sort of panel, but on a larger scale.
So for example, instead of a warehouse having 500 panels each with 43 56w cob's, you could have 500 single monster 2400w COB's each covering the area of one panel.
For our small rooms, the small chip size actually benefits us, because we get the overlap achieved by spreading out your lights like they would be in a warehouse but on a small scale. I can see where you would have trouble finding a way to efficiently use it in place of an array of smaller chips. That would be like going back to a couple 1kw hps, sure the electrical efficiency would be better, your spread would not be improved I wouldn't think. Unless its got some super spectrum that is not achievable smaller chips, but I would think the spectrum would be very similar, unless its using completely different super-tech.
 
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ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
febisfebi said:
HAH so much for MIT. This sure makes them look smart, lol. When I first read that, of course I had smoked some good shit, so when they threw out that idea that 95% of the energy is being "lost to the atmosphere" I am thinking, they are talking about energy losses on all levels, from the bulb, to the wall, to losses in the hundreds of miles of power lines, and the aging grid itself, and all the way to the energy being "thrown out into the atmosphere" at the actual power plant. All of which, im sure would add up to a lot more than 95% in that case.
so when they list numbers like 14% for led's im still thinking on that same track, but now that I re read that, it makes no sense at all. Our light source, (or their new fancy new light source) have no influence on the efficiency of anything past the plug in the wall.
CREE Cob chips are ~55% efficient like you said, the only additional loss to that would be the dc power supply which can have as little as 4 or 5%, which is hardly a dealbreaker in that regard. so your total efficiency from the wall, might be around 50% or so, depending on if you buy a quality driver or a 82% efficient dc power supply on ebay.
That is all they could legitimately compare their efficiency to. The only real difference is the 100CRI, which at 40% efficiency, if applied correctly could maybe be useful in supplemental lighting. At least in the ballpark of efficiency, but no where near the ridiculous amount they make it sound like.

@ttystikk What do you think about the monster COB's you were talking about, do you think they make a nice multi-angle overlap system in a warehouse setting, just like you guys are doing with an array of spread out smaller COB's, on some sort of panel, but on a larger scale.
So for example, instead of a warehouse having 500 panels each with 43 56w cob's, you could have 500 single monster 2400w COB's each covering the area of one panel.
For our small rooms, the small chip size actually benefits us, because we get the overlap achieved by spreading out your lights like they would be in a warehouse but on a small scale. I can see where you would have trouble finding a way to efficiently use it in place of an array of smaller chips. That would be like going back to a couple 1kw hps, sure the electrical efficiency would be better, your spread would not be improved I wouldn't think. Unless its got some super spectrum that is not achievable smaller chips, but I would think the spectrum would be very similar, unless its using completely different super-tech.
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Your thinking and mine are very much in agreement here. I'm running my chips at 54W each and thus I'm able to keep the distance between chip and bud tip small.
 
PSUAGRO.

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
@The Dawg

It was the icmag thread that started the cmh craze(retrowhite), @hyroot was the first allstart grower here I think, i had a undocumented 330w back then vs horti blue before a friend got popped with our product ....................sorry puppy, your PE run was still good though:clap:
 
The Dawg

The Dawg

Well-Known Member
@PSUAGRO. I Thought The Allstart Came Out in 2013? Before That Phillips Made An 150,250 And My Personal Favorite The 400 Retro White With A Kelvin Rating of 4000. Now I Think Of It I Belive You Did Say You Have A Run Under Your Belt When I Came Over From Bubbleponics. :hug:
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
PSUAGRO. said:
@The Dawg

It was the icmag thread that started the cmh craze(retrowhite), @hyroot was the first allstart grower here I think, i had a undocumented 330w back then vs horti blue before a friend got popped with our product ....................sorry puppy, your PE run was still good though:clap:
Click to expand...
Hey! I've been running the allstart 860W for years! What am I, chopped liver?!
 
BobCajun

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
I think all you would need is red and blue T-5s, though it's hard to find 4' ones. If you want short plants you use more than 25% blue but in flowering maybe 1 blue to 5 red. I've been reading a little on green light and turns out that when NASA guys added green to red and blue it reduced growth. Green light can reduce growth by up to 50%. There's an article where green light did help with lettuce, but lettuce is kind of a special case. It reacts oddly to blue light so maybe the green helps by countering some of the blue light effects. In general though, green light is a bad thing. It also produces a shade-avoidance effect, where it causes stem elongation. So my thinking is to go back to red and blue only but control the blue level for optimal growth. I also wouldn't add far red, since it too produces the shade-avoidance stem elongation without increasing yield at all except for more stem weight.

I was considering using magenta color correction filters, or ones called minusgreen, on white COBs but they're quite costly and do cut out about 15% of blue and red in addition to most of the green because they're not that efficient. Might be something for someone to try if they happen to have a magenta filter on hand though.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
BobCajun said:
I think all you would need is red and blue T-5s, though it's hard to find 4' ones. If you want short plants you use more than 25% blue but in flowering maybe 1 blue to 5 red. I've been reading a little on green light and turns out that when NASA guys added green to red and blue it reduced growth. Green light can reduce growth by up to 50%. There's an article where green light did help with lettuce, but lettuce is kind of a special case. It reacts oddly to blue light so maybe the green helps by countering some of the blue light effects. In general though, green light is a bad thing. It also produces a shade-avoidance effect, where it causes stem elongation. So my thinking is to go back to red and blue only but control the blue level for optimal growth. I also wouldn't add far red, since it too produces the shade-avoidance stem elongation without increasing yield at all except for more stem weight.

I was considering using magenta color correction filters, or ones called minusgreen, on white COBs but they're quite costly and do cut out about 15% of blue and red in addition to most of the green because they're not that efficient. Might be something for someone to try if they happen to have a magenta filter on hand though.
Click to expand...
I'm using far red 5 mins before lights out and 10 mins on AFTER lights out.
 
BobCajun

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
Here are some reasonably priced filters to get that nasty green out. Look at that lovely scooped spectrum. At that price you could cover the entire space over the plants.

 
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