First LED build CXB3590

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brimck325

Well-Known Member
no i don't, i just came across it n thought it could be a deal for someone without knowledge on LED like myself. i know you guys build your own that are way more efficient then store bought. sorry if i offended anyone.
 
Doer

Doer

Well-Known Member
brimck325 said:
no i don't, i just came across it n thought it could be a deal for someone without knowledge on LED like myself. i know you guys build your own that are way more efficient then store bought. sorry if i offended anyone.
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Don't get offended. The rest is on us. :)

We can help you. But, it is all a trade off. You can build a rig for the same price as commercial but better. Or you can build a commercial type design for cheaper.

And I am with @Positivity. The market moves so fast, the commercial guys are following the DIYs. Next year it will be White COBs. This year, we build them DIY.

But, you have to be tooled up for the basics of building,
 
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AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
I think it's important to point out that there are different tiers of DIY COB fixture crafting.

It's true that one can build their own fixture at a lower cost per par watt, which can be more efficient and possibly better than what is commercially available now. I've seen a bunch of DIY projects in my short time here on RIU and I can't help but point out that there are both legit and non-legit fixtures floating around.

The legit fixtures cost a bunch of money and consume a lot of thinking and handwork. @Positivity and @stardustsailor have demonstrated such fixtures. They are enclosed (for the most part) and are clean looking.

Then you have the non-legit fixtures, that do what their suppose to do (grow) and nothing more. They typically have wires hanging all over the place and are, imo, extremely unsafe. They don't look all that great but I guess the plants won't mind seeing as they can't see (or can they?!). These fixtures are cheaper, sometimes hitting lows as $3/PAR W.

I digress from rambling on....
 
Scotch089

Scotch089

Well-Known Member
Hey and just so they know. I wasn't trying to compare dong sizes at all, I just wanted to point out yoy can have a safe diy without it being enclosed, like supe and several others. I don't think anyone wants to gamble their life to build their own light. I am in love with some of the work on here, cases, arduino, thermal sensors and shutoffs, just wicked and hopefully I can grasp those concepts some day. Just have to work on my soldering skills first ;)
 
AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
Scotch089 said:
Hey and just so they know. I wasn't trying to compare dong sizes at all, I just wanted to point out yoy can have a safe diy without it being enclosed, like supe and several others. I don't think anyone wants to gamble their life to build their own light. I am in love with some of the work on here, cases, arduino, thermal sensors and shutoffs, just wicked and hopefully I can grasp those concepts some day. Just have to work on my soldering skills first ;)
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Your dong size exceeds my expectations.. lol. I'm totally on board with you on the fact that a safe DIY fixture doesn't have to be enclosed (most here aren't).

I like the blue fans! Haven't seen that done before!

:clap:
 
DoctorDelta9

DoctorDelta9

Well-Known Member
Ok guys one more question
Running the meanwell htg-120-1050..
Differences between input of 110VAC and 220VAC?
Aside from amperage draw. I plan on installing a dedicated breaker for the room so that's not a problem.
Everything else running will be 110VAC so having to run two separate lines will be a pain.

EDIT:
Ok so I just went over the spec sheet again...
Actually looks like the power factor is better with the 110VAC.
But I'm reading 50A inrush current?!?
Holy shit. So I'm going to need a big breaker for these bad boys??
Can anyone confirm this?

Also,
What are ya'll using for timers and on/off control?

@SupraSPL
 
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Positivity

Positivity

Well-Known Member
Not an expert but i read a little after you asked the question..

Possibly trip a breaker but otherwise the inrush is very brief. Thats my understanding..

http://sound.westhost.com/articles/inrush.htm


1 - What Is Inrush Current?

Inrush current is also sometimes known as surge current, and as noted above is always higher than the normal operating current of the equipment. The ratio of inrush current to normal full-load current can range from 5 to 100 times greater. A piece of equipment that draws 1A at normal full load may briefly draw between 5 and 100A when power is first applied.

This current surge can cause component damage and/or failure within the equipment itself, blown fuses, tripped circuit breakers, and may severely limit the number of devices connected to a common power source. The following loads will all have a significant inrush current, albeit for very different reasons ...

  • Incandescent lamps using a tungsten filament (AC or DC powered, any voltage)
  • Fluorescent and other gas discharge lamps (including compact fluorescent types)
  • Power transformers, especially toroidal types of 500VA or more
  • Power supplies that obtain a low voltage AC from a transformer
  • Electronic power supplies, as commonly used for personal computers, wall supplies, etc.
  • Electronic power supplies with active power factor correction (PFC)
  • Electric motors of all types, with the greatest problems caused when starting under load from rest
  • CRT computer monitors and TV receivers. Inrush is deliberately created to operate the degaussing coil(s)
The list above covers a great many products, and with modern electronics infiltrating almost every household and industrial item used it actually covers just about every product available. Few modern products are exempt from inrush current - at least to a degree. Some of the most basic items we use do not have an issue with inrush current at all - most are products that use heating coils made from nichrome (nickel-chromium resistance wire) or similar. The current variation between cold and full temperature is generally quite small. This applies to fan assisted, column and most radiant heaters, toasters and electric water heating elements. Apart from these few products, almost everything else will have a significant inrush current.

In some cases, we can ignore the inrush current because it is comparatively small, and/or extremely brief. A few products may draw only double their normal running current for a few mains cycles, while others can draw 10, 50 or 100 times the normal current, but for a very short time (often only a few milliseconds). Some products can draw many times their normal current for an extended period - electric motors with a heavy starting load or power supplies with extremely large capacitor banks being a couple of examples.
 
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DoctorDelta9

DoctorDelta9

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the article. :bigjoint:
I have a pretty good grasp on it. But what I'm wondering is: 7 drivers x 50a inrush?? I can't imagine they really pull that much. Can anyone who has exp. With the hgt-120 or 185 series chime in here? I haven't seen anyone speak of a dedicated 100-200a breaker (huge!) I mean I can run it if need be , but Jesus tap dancing Christ, those meanwells must have some serious capacators in them!!!
Also guys!
Please chime in on my other thread here:
https://www.rollitup.org/t/the-room-filters-and-fans.868423/

Thanks!
 
alesh

alesh

Well-Known Member
DoctorDelta9 said:
Thanks for the article. :bigjoint:
I have a pretty good grasp on it. But what I'm wondering is: 7 drivers x 50a inrush?? I can't imagine they really pull that much. Can anyone who has exp. With the hgt-120 or 185 series chime in here? I haven't seen anyone speak of a dedicated 100-200a breaker (huge!) I mean I can run it if need be , but Jesus tap dancing Christ, those meanwells must have some serious capacators in them!!!
Also guys!
Please chime in on my other thread here:
https://www.rollitup.org/t/the-room-filters-and-fans.868423/

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Read up something first http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Circuit_breaker#Low-voltage_circuit_breakers
It's perfectly normal value for the most of switched-mode power supplies. Your PC has very similar inrush current.
 
Getgrowingson

Getgrowingson

Well-Known Member
If your super worried about it which Iwouldn't be you can get time delay circuit breakers designed for high inrush current devices. I think you will be fine personally from an electric point of view.
 
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