Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
Plants Can Hear Themselves Being Eaten, and Can Communicate the Threat
FULL ARTICLE (recommended)

How Plants Communicate

As mentioned earlier, plants also communicate with other plants—even with plants of other species—through a complex underground network that includes:

  1. The plants' rhizosphere (root ball)
  2. Aerial emissions (volatile gasses emitted by the plants)
  3. Mycelial networks in the soil

These three systems work together forming a "plant internet," if you will, where information about each plant's status is constantly exchanged. One of the organisms responsible for this amazing biochemical highway is a type of fungus called mycorrhizae.

The name mycorrhiza literally means fungus root.4 These fungi form a symbiotic relationship with the plant, colonizing the roots and sending extremely fine filaments far out into the soil that act as root extensions.
Not only do these networks sound the alarm about invaders, but the filaments are more effective in nutrient and water absorption than the plant roots themselves—mycorrhizae increase the nutrient absorption of the plant 100 to 1,000 times.5

In one thimbleful of healthy soil, you can find several MILES of fungal filaments, all releasing powerful enzymes that help dissolve tightly bound soil nutrients, such as organic nitrogen, phosphorus, and iron.
This is one of the major reasons why tilling the soil is deleterious to gardening or farming as it damages these fragile fungal filaments. The last thing any gardener or farmer should be doing is tilling the soil.

That is one of the reasons why wood chips are so useful as they not only eliminate tilling but effectively feeds the fungi. One of the best things you can do for your garden is to put a four inch layer of wood chips (not bark) around your plants to encourage this fungal growth and attract earthworms so they can create vermicompost.


Peace!
P-

Amazing
 

Pattahabi

Well-Known Member
Chur bro. Compost and molasses I can handle - sounds like less is more folks :)

Hard to find anything marketed as fish hydrosylate on this corner of the globe. Though I think I've seen some cold-processed semi-fermented liquid fish fert before - which sounds something like a product of hydrosylis.
That is exactly my philosophy, and this is why; when you have less in, then when you add something or make a change you have a much better idea of what is going on. If you start adding some laundry list of amendments you have no idea.

Kelp has 83 elements, 70 microelements, alginic acid, mannitol, auxins, gibberellins, etc. If you had a good humus source, and a well built soil, kelp alone would grow some amazing plants. Now add some rock dust, neem meal - another nutrient accumulator along with added pest deterring benefits, maybe some crab meal - calcium, chitin, etc. How much more do you really need?

But hey, if a hydrostore can sell you 17 boxes of different amendments (been there) they can almost make as much as they do on the white shark mycos crap.

Sad but true...

P-
 

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
That is exactly my philosophy, and this is why; when you have less in, then when you add something or make a change you have a much better idea of what is going on. If you start adding some laundry list of amendments you have no idea.

Kelp has 83 elements, 70 microelements, alginic acid, mannitol, auxins, gibberellins, etc. If you had a good humus source, and a well built soil, kelp alone would grow some amazing plants. Now add some rock dust, neem meal - another nutrient accumulator along with added pest deterring benefits, maybe some crab meal - calcium, chitin, etc. How much more do you really need?

But hey, if a hydrostore can sell you 17 boxes of different amendments (been there) they can almost make as much as they do on the white shark mycos crap.

Sad but true...

P-

Truth. I'm really digging the simplistic approach. Shedding the bottle-feeding mentality has been a journey. I still have to resist the urge to tinker. I've got my soil amendments down to 6 items, and have cut everything else out save for silica, fish hydrolysate, and the occasional compost tea. My plants haven't looked better
 

smokey the cat

Well-Known Member
Talking about silica -



I've been thinking about getting some agsil 16H. Seems like a really fun product to play with for the whole garden.


What dosage do you use, and how frequently do you dose with it?
Most of the dose intructions are how to replicate Protekt - to mix Agsil into a contcentrated solution requiring further dilution before application.
What dosage do you use if you want to use Agsil directly - how many mill per litre?

Any risks from over doing things?
 

DonPetro

Well-Known Member
Truth. I'm really digging the simplistic approach. Shedding the bottle-feeding mentality has been a journey. I still have to resist the urge to tinker. I've got my soil amendments down to 6 items, and have cut everything else out save for silica, fish hydrolysate, and the occasional compost tea. My plants haven't looked better
St0w...do you have journal? I would love to check out your garden.
 

CannaBare

Well-Known Member
Does anyone here use blumats? I am thinking of buying some but I can not figure out if I should get the maxi or two medium sized. My pot is a homemade smartpot 12 in diameter and 12 inch high. It holds about 5 gallons. I could really use help from someone with experience.

Thanks!
 

DonPetro

Well-Known Member
I don't. I just spam the forum with random pics. :bigjoint:

Here's one Im rocking in a coco coir base. Female Seeds C-99 6 weeks 12/12.

View attachment 3272595

Grape stomper cross
View attachment 3272621

Group shot
View attachment 3272600
Can you expand a little on what your base consists of and the type and amount of amendments you're using? Also, what size containers are those ladies in? They look extremely healthy. Im looking to reduce my amount of inputs and stick to plant and mineral based elements. Much respect, brother!
 

Tazbud

Well-Known Member
Does anyone here use blumats? I am thinking of buying some but I can not figure out if I should get the maxi or two medium sized. My pot is a homemade smartpot 12 in diameter and 12 inch high. It holds about 5 gallons. I could really use help from someone with experience.

Thanks!
Medium will do, iv'e had no problems in different pots (inc airpots and large tubs) around that depth with good moisture at depth, with coco or coco based soil. And even one medium carrot would do at 12" wide (moisture to the edge). I like blumats, there is a very cheap copy (I have two to try) but just bought another dozen direct from tropf-blumat for my strawberry house for some lazy auto- strawberries!

bongsmilie

those do look ridiculously healthy stOwandgrow wow!
 
Last edited:

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
Can you expand a little on what your base consists of and the type and amount of amendments you're using? Also, what size containers are those ladies in? They look extremely healthy. Im looking to reduce my amount of inputs and stick to plant and mineral based elements. Much respect, brother!

Yeah, you bet DP.

I'm using 1/3 peat (coco coir for the C-99 pictured above), 1/3 home made EWC, and 1/3 aeration bits (usually rice hulls). To that I'm adding 1/2 cup per cf of the following: Crab shell meal, neem seed meal, kelp meal, and alfalfa meal. Then I add 3 cups per cf of mixed rock dusts (usually basalt and granite) and 1 cup per cf of oyster shell flour. That's it. Everything else has been cut out. Those plants pictured above were grown in recycled soil in "#7" plastic containers. I've been finding that I get 3-4 good runs of no-till from those buckets before they peter out a bit. I've recently upgraded to #10 buckets looking to get another run or two out of them. I'm also planning on swapping out the peat for leaf mold once I have enough ready.....

This mix gives me pretty much a water-only soil. I water 3-4 times a week, and one of those waterings each week I will do either a silica/aloe drench, compost tea, or fish hydrolysate. When I water with one of the above I'm also doing a foliar application of the same up to 3 weeks of flower.

After harvest I top dress the above inputs at 1/4 the amount initially used mixed in with EWC, and then I lay down a cover crop of clovers, vetch, etc. These buckets are set off to the side of my veg room for 3 weeks in fallow, and then a new clone is plugged right back in. Rinse-repeat
 

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
Talking about silica -



I've been thinking about getting some agsil 16H. Seems like a really fun product to play with for the whole garden.


What dosage do you use, and how frequently do you dose with it?
Most of the dose intructions are how to replicate Protekt - to mix Agsil into a contcentrated solution requiring further dilution before application.
What dosage do you use if you want to use Agsil directly - how many mill per litre?

Any risks from over doing things?
Sorry smokey, I missed this post. I actually use Pro-tekt so I won't be much help for agisil mixing instructions. I've had this little bottle of Pro-tekt forever, but when I run out I'm planning on looking at either Agisil or a dynamic accumulator like horsetail.
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Yeah, you bet DP.

I'm using 1/3 peat (coco coir for the C-99 pictured above), 1/3 home made EWC, and 1/3 aeration bits (usually rice hulls). To that I'm adding 1/2 cup per cf of the following: Crab shell meal, neem seed meal, kelp meal, and alfalfa meal. Then I add 3 cups per cf of mixed rock dusts (usually basalt and granite) and 1 cup per cf of oyster shell flour. That's it. Everything else has been cut out. Those plants pictured above were grown in recycled soil in "#7" plastic containers. I've been finding that I get 3-4 good runs of no-till from those buckets before they peter out a bit. I've recently upgraded to #10 buckets looking to get another run or two out of them. I'm also planning on swapping out the peat for leaf mold once I have enough ready.....

This mix gives me pretty much a water-only soil. I water 3-4 times a week, and one of those waterings each week I will do either a silica/aloe drench, compost tea, or fish hydrolysate. When I water with one of the above I'm also doing a foliar application of the same up to 3 weeks of flower.

After harvest I top dress the above inputs at 1/4 the amount initially used mixed in with EWC, and then I lay down a cover crop of clovers, vetch, etc. These buckets are set off to the side of my veg room for 3 weeks in fallow, and then a new clone is plugged right back in. Rinse-repeat
GOOD stuff, this is a GREAT example of keeping it relatively simple but yet having absolutely optimal results, good job my friend! I want that C99.... oh man.
 

DonPetro

Well-Known Member
I don't. I just spam the forum with random pics. :bigjoint:

Here's one Im rocking in a coco coir base. Female Seeds C-99 6 weeks 12/12.

View attachment 3272595

Grape stomper cross
View attachment 3272621

Group shot
View attachment 3272600
Have you grown the c99 before? Are the smells and flavors really as amazing as they say? How is the smoke? Also, st0w, your yields are looking great...what would you say is the biggest contributor to a heavy harvest when growing all-natural?
 

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
GOOD stuff, this is a GREAT example of keeping it relatively simple but yet having absolutely optimal results, good job my friend! I want that C99.... oh man.
Thanks Grease! That C-99 is from Female Seeds. I bought 10 but only popped 2 of them to start, and they are identical clones of one another. Very stable line. I'll put them under a scope before I chop, but they are looking to be ready by next weekend IMO. 49 days!


Have you grown the c99 before? Are the smells and flavors really as amazing as they say? How is the smoke? Also, st0w, your yields are looking great...what would you say is the biggest contributor to a heavy harvest when growing all-natural?
This is my first grow of this C-99. The smell is straight up sweet pineapple. So delicious smelling! I haven't tasted/smoked them yet, but I'll be sure to let you know once I do. Probably have some feedback for ya within a couple weeks....

As for yield I don't really think there are any tricks beyond the usual advice. Container size, veg time, and ample lighting would be the limiting factors beyond genetics. I don't supplement with CO2, or use any special additives. I do find using my tomato cages to tuck the apical tip under to be beneficial. It promotes those side shoots to really explode while not causing any stress like topping/super-cropping might do. Usually around the 10-14 day mark of flower my plants have stretched a good 6"- 8" above the top rung of the tomato cage, at which point I just tuck it under the rung and leave it be. By the 3'rd-4'th week of flower I have a nice even canopy of colas that are starting to fatten up

edit: That "group shot" pic above is 5 plants. That pic was taken at 3 weeks 12/12. The stretch was done, and there are probably a good 4-5 main colas per plant just from tucking the main stem under the tomato cage rung. By not topping/super cropping the plants incur no stress and just keep chugging along
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Thanks Grease! That C-99 is from Female Seeds. I bought 10 but only popped 2 of them to start, and they are identical clones of one another. Very stable line. I'll put them under a scope before I chop, but they are looking to be ready by next weekend IMO. 49 days!




This is my first grow of this C-99. The smell is straight up sweet pineapple. So delicious smelling! I haven't tasted/smoked them yet, but I'll be sure to let you know once I do. Probably have some feedback for ya within a couple weeks....

As for yield I don't really think there are any tricks beyond the usual advice. Container size, veg time, and ample lighting would be the limiting factors beyond genetics. I don't supplement with CO2, or use any special additives. I do find using my tomato cages to tuck the apical tip under to be beneficial. It promotes those side shoots to really explode while not causing any stress like topping/super-cropping might do. Usually around the 10-14 day mark of flower my plants have stretched a good 6"- 8" above the top rung of the tomato cage, at which point I just tuck it under the rung and leave it be. By the 3'rd-4'th week of flower I have a nice even canopy of colas that are starting to fatten up

edit: That "group shot" pic above is 5 plants. That pic was taken at 3 weeks 12/12. The stretch was done, and there are probably a good 4-5 main colas per plant just from tucking the main stem under the tomato cage rung. By not topping/super cropping the plants incur no stress and just keep chugging along
damn dude, that's some impressive stuff for only 49 days with a sativa-hybrid. I gotta get me some of these, a forum buddy (keizersoze) has some extra c99s that need adoption... may have to make the trip down there... maybe i'll do that instead of getting the chucky's bride, I just want some c99 genetics.
 

foreverflyhi

Well-Known Member
copy and paste from buildasoil regarding agsil

im following this exact recipe and it works great!
both neem and liter

AGSIL16H is manufactured by PQ corporation and is one of the few silica products on the market that is water soluble. This simple powder will save money over buying water based Silica Bottle products.
See the MSDS report here: AGSIL16H MSDS PDF
Compare to Pro-Tekt, Rhino Skin, Silica Blast and all other Silica Bottled products. There is no secret ingredient, all are made from potassium silicate.
How to use this powder dry with your Neem Oil: Mix 1.5 grams (Just under 1/2 Teaspoon) AgSil 16H with 1 ounce Ahimsa Pure Neem Oil to emulsify the oil. Then mix this emulsified oil with one gallon final volume spray solution. Spray every other week covering all plant surfaces (top and bottom of leaves) until it runs off.
Grower Pro Tip:
Make your own nutrient bottle! Here is a recipe to make a liquid version of a Silica Nutrient.
Just follow the mixing recipe below.

If you don't have a scale: Use 3 Tablespoons of Agsil16H for every 8 ounces water.
Following the above recipe to make 1 Liter of 7.8% Liquid Solution you would mix 148 Grams of Agsil16H into 1 Liter of water. Then you can store it in a bottle or jar and shake well before using. I use an old bottle of ProTekt to mix and store mine. (1 Liter of water is about 34 Ounces)


http://buildasoil.com/products/agsil16h-potassium-silicate
 

Pattahabi

Well-Known Member
So, I raised my eye brows at adding powdered agsil to neem. I could be totally wrong about this, but I assumed it needed to be two liquids?

From Wiki
An emulsion is a mixture of two or more liquids that are normally immiscible (nonmixable or unblendable).

Has anyone tried mixing the agsil powder straight into neem?

P-
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
So, I raised my eye brows at adding powdered agsil to neem. I could be totally wrong about this, but I assumed it needed to be two liquids?

From Wiki
An emulsion is a mixture of two or more liquids that are normally immiscible (nonmixable or unblendable).

Has anyone tried mixing the agsil powder straight into neem?

P-
my issue is, I really don't like neem oil on my plants... Neem seed cake? Well hell yeah, but oil I don't like. I just don't. Good information to have for those that like neem oil though
 

Pattahabi

Well-Known Member
my issue is, I really don't like neem oil on my plants... Neem seed cake? Well hell yeah, but oil I don't like. I just don't. Good information to have for those that like neem oil though
Grease, can I ask why you don't like neem oil on your plants? If it is the smell, have you tried karanja?

Peace!
P-
 
Top