You Can Do That?

Humanrob said:

Tim may have some other info to share, but my experience has been that there is no single answer to that question. Just like with any specific nutrients, some strains seem to need more than others, so expect LEDs to impact them differently. I regularly grow a handful of different strains at a time and they each have individual needs. I guess the trick is to learn the signs of over-doing it, and know when a specific strain, pheno, or just individual plant is getting more than it needs.

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StareCase said:

Thank Rob ... what you say makes perfect sense. I have two plants on the grow, each is a different strain, and both react slightly with respect to distance of the LED to the canopy.

Interesting how that line between nutrient burn and nutrient deficiency can be really razor thin. With Pro-Mix HP, I found that leaning to the lesser side when mixing the fertilizers was beneficial. I'll be harvesting within the next 2 weeks and I'll see what I get when dried and cured. That will probably tell me if I am using the right amount of Cal/Mag.

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Tim Fox said:

hey buddy, thanks for checking in on the grow, so far the tomato tone is handeling the cal mag, i do have some liquid i can mix up if they need it, right now the blue dream is a little off in the leaf color, hoping she snaps out of it, it looks like it was low on something in the cup of soil from the dispensary?,
I am very interested in usnign the liquid tiger bloom in flower,, is that the organic, pre mixed,, so there isnt any Salts?

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StareCase said:

Negative on the Tiger Bloom being organic. It's chemicals. The stuff is 2-8-4 (N-P-K) along with micro-nutrients like copper, iron, manganese, boron, zinc. It is premixed and all you need to do is shake it up when you use it to mix the micro-nutrients back into the solution as they separate quickly. I used 2 tsp / Imperial gallon and that seemed to do OK..

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Tim Fox said:

is the pro mix an inert soiless medium, and is dependant on nutes being added?,, or is a a soil ,, like ocean forrest for instance,, i have never tried pro mix, but have only heard about it

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StareCase said:

Pro-Mix HP is a soilless mix of sphagnum peat moss, dolomite lime, perlite and mycorrhizae. With the mycorrhizal beneficial fungus, the root ball becomes enormous. I recommend good large pots if you are going to try ProMix HP. And since the fungus helps in nutrient uptake, I am feeding the nutes on the lesser side of what is recommended on the bottles of the Fox Farm line.

The bottle calls for 2 to 3 tsp / gallon and I am using 1 tsp / 2L.

( I just saw the other post - I'll add my response to that here. )

I don't flush either cause I also am not set-up to pour gallons of water through my pots either. I found that by going on the lesser side of the FF nutes, it eliminated the need to flush. This grow went feed / water / feed / water ... with 3 days in between. I do give it straight water in my last couple of waterings just before harvest.

I snipped a small nugget off of each of the two strains I have on the go now - you know, to test whether it's ready - and both nuggets with right into the pipe without any drying. When done, the ash in both cases was a light grey and the smoke was pretty smooth for uncured bud. Going lighter on the nutes in Pro-Mix HP helps to eliminate the need for a major flush.

I can post pictures of my two ladies if you want to see how they look grown in ProMix using FF nutes.

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StareCase said:

Red Diesel - a.k.a. "Ginger"

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StareCase said:

Thank Rob ... what you say makes perfect sense. I have two plants on the grow, each is a different strain, and both react slightly with respect to distance of the LED to the canopy.

Interesting how that line between nutrient burn and nutrient deficiency can be really razor thin. With Pro-Mix HP, I found that leaning to the lesser side when mixing the fertilizers was beneficial. I'll be harvesting within the next 2 weeks and I'll see what I get when dried and cured. That will probably tell me if I am using the right amount of Cal/Mag.

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Humanrob said:

I'm a sucker for soil, I like my indoor grows as simple and close to my backyard garden as possible. To that end I like dry time release nutes for their simplicity, and I also try to start out with less and build slowly. I don't have an option for "flushing", so I need to err on the side of more gently fertilizing. Bottom line is I get less final product by not pushing them to their edge, but the whole grow goes more easily with less stress on me and the plants.

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Tim Fox said:

ah yes, I second that, i gravitate to easy

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StareCase said:

Gentemen - I'd go for easier too.

I was not planning on getting any more ProMix once this bail is consumed. That's mainly due to the storage of the unused parts of that fairly large bail as opposed to how well it grows herb.

I've had very good luck in the past with 4 parts good garden soil, 1 part perlite and 1 part peat moss. Rob - what are some of those dry release nutes that you use? "Set and forget" sounds very appealing.

Thanks.

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StareCase said:

Thanks again bud!

The Fox Farm Grow Big and Tiger Bloom ( and the Pro-Mix for that matter ) that I have left is good for probably three or four more grows so if that switch happened, it will not be until next year at the earliest. Maybe I'll switch to garden soil (that bail is big and kind of in the way!) and stick with the FF line. If the nutes ain't broke ... why fix it?

For your reference - a 32 fl. oz bottle of the Grow Big and Tiger Bloom cost me $80 CDN - so count on $60 U.S. for both.

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StareCase said:

Glad to see that you have that leaf problem worked out. It's a frustrating feeling to see shitty colours showing on your leaves but it's very gratifying when you see your remedial efforts paid off and they start greening up again.

I have read a few posts that recommend not freezing your stash - but I have done it with success. Use the Zip Lock freezer bags (as much air sucked out as possible) then tucked those bags inside a solid plastic freezer container - freezing the bud does work for a little while.

But like anything in a freezer, eventually time will catch up to it and that freezer burn will occur. The longest I have frozen was just over 2 years and there was not much degradation of the THC. They did the trick, as it were.

When you go to enjoy it, gently take the bag(s) out (use the zipper part of the Zip Lock bag to handle it so you don't touch the herb itself) then let the weed slowly come back up to room temperature before you do anything with it. Fucking with the bud while still frozen is not advised. It takes about 1 - 2 hours to get back up to room temperature throughout the entire bag.

Once it's back to room temperature - just grind away. (With a multi stage grinder to catch your keif, of course!)

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StareCase said:

How to store our weed - talk about First World Problems!

LOL!

Wishing you continued success! I hope that I get to see the progress of this grow down the road.

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