Yellowing leaves with red/brown spots spreading fast... help.

Newbie to the site, newbie to indoor. I'm growing under flourecent ( i know should use something else, stealth to me is a big priority) I root in an aerogrow and then transplant into soil. These 8 plants have been in soil for about a month. The leaves are starting to yellow and gain red spots on the outer edges of the leaves working their way from the bottom of the plant up. I will post pics tonight. I have read all the literature, but can't tell if it's a ph problem(it very well is due to lack of testing - once again my fault) or if it's the soil. I used Miracle Grow Organic potting soil and Miracle Grow perlite. I only used the perlite because of it being out of season for gardening supplies in my area. Should I just adjust ph for a while, or should I completely re-pot them in new soil? Otherwise any help would be appreciated. Oh yeah and I really don't want to lose these and it's spreading fast.

sounds like nutrient burn. pics would help

if it looks like your fanleaves are rusting and start to get crispy its nutrient burn.

Well, that's what I feared here's the pics though... sorry to take so long any help would be appreciated.

It seems as though the veins are starting to turn red as well now, maybe nitrogen deficiency, but it feels like their over-fertilized.

Welp I havn't watered it in about 4-5 days just to check to see what the problem is. I've never heard of the plants turning red/brown from over watering. I was going to check the soil with a nutrient tester tonight. Otherwise I'm not sure if I should flush the soil (cause it feels like nutrient burn) or just repot them with a nutrient free soil and perlite and water it with ph'd water. I know I made some errors, but I also know I can save these if I'm on the ball. I'll post updated pics tonight. If I should chose to flush the soil, what's the best method to do so without harming the plants?

jonbenwah said:

Well, that's what I feared here's the pics though... sorry to take so long any help would be appreciated.

Click to expand...

It is molybendinum def it is easily treatable. Molybdenum (Mo)

Molybdenum has proteins that help the plant take nitrogen from the air.


A Molybdenum deficiency causes leaves to have a pale, fringed and scorched look, along with weird or retarded leaf growth. Yellowing of middle leaves can occur as well as twisted younger leaves which will eventually die. Molybdenum deficiencies frequently resemble a nitrogen deficiency. A Molybdenum deficiency shows older chlorotic leaves with rolled margins and stunted growth. Looks like a nitrogen deficiency but with the red tips moving inwards to the middle of the leaves. Molybendum deficiency will usually show up in the older to middle aged leaves, then it moves to the young leaves. Generally a molybdenum deficiency occurs when sulfur and phosphorus are deficient.

Molybdenum toxicity doesn’t cause to many problems, but may cause problems when the human ingests it. Excessive molybdenum in cannabis will look like iron or copper deficiency. Parts affected are by the molybdenum deficiency are: Older leaves.

Problems with Molybdenum being Locked out by Ph Troubles

Soil ph that are under 5.5


Soil

Molybdenum gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-6.5
Molybdenum is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 7.0-9.5 (Wouldn’t recommend having a soil ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Molybdenum deficiency.



Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Molybdenum gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-5.5
Molybdenum is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 6.0-8.0 (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Molybdenum deficiency.



Solution to fixing a Molybdenum deficiency
One way to fix a Molybdenum deficiency is to foliar spray with Molybdenum, like Miracle Grow All Purpose plant food and Miracle Grow: Tomato Plant Food. These can also be used to mix in with water as well. (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients, or it will cause nutrient burn!)Other nutrients that have Molybdenum in them are: I think Peters All Purpose Plant food does, as well as Greensand, Lime. Green sand and lime is slow/medium absorption, while Peters All Purpose Plant Food is fast absorption.


Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.

Thanks Smokin, I'm testing the nutrient levels tonight and the soil ph. When I try to fix the Mo problem, is there a household item I can use to fix it i.e. natural non chemical ingredient?

As far as nutrients that i gave them .... I rooted from seed in an aerogrow using only one feeding of FF. Once rooted I transplanted into Miracle Grow Organic potting soil and 20-30% perlite (the perlite was miracle grow brand, but according to the bag there seems to be a very minimal amount of nutes in the perlite).

They were doing great for about 10-14 days then all of a sudden they sarted to turn yellow near the bottom. Then redish-brown spots occured near the tips of the leaves, and then the spots started to spread inward on the leaves. Now the veins are turning red, and the new growth on top of a few plants appears to be getting red on the tips.

Like I said above, I will take new pics tonight as well as test the soil ph and nutrient levels.

Please all check back and I'll keep you posted.