XLG-240-L/M/H- Constant POWER drivers

Hey guys.
Constant Power drivers.
I've downloaded the data sheet and seen what I could see. But I'm still a bit confused about these and how they work. I see the ranges going from 700-1050 then 1400-2100. But they also dim. So how do you adjust or know what current you're getting or want to get?
Like on the XLG-240-* It has no A or AB. It's their "Blank" version.
There's no Dim Leads OR POTENTIOMETER on it so what would this driver be a good fit for?
I'd really like to understand this driver like I do the CC and CV's now. I'd really appreciate a lil schoolin if someone wouldn't mind being so kind.
THANKS RIU!!@

only the "blank" version, who isnt for the free market dont have anything to set the current.
you can probably order a large batch"blank" from mean well and they preset it to anything you want.
for the free market there is just A and AB, they can dim.

i just have a XLG 25 A type in use, there is a screw on the bottom to set the current, youll need to measure inline to know whats up, or guess from your wall meter readings.

AB type seems to have no screw in the case (?), just the external dim wire, as far i see, differs to the HLG AB types.

What would be considered a “harsh environment” for blank version drivers as listed on the data sheet?

maybe when some construction workers sink them in street lamps etc.
could also be the ip rating is higher with a complete closed casing.
well, greenhouse is probably also a harsh enviroment, while i wont miss the set screws tbh.

cobshopgrow said:

maybe when some construction workers sink them in street lamps etc.
could also be the ip rating is higher with a complete closed casing.
well, greenhouse is probably also a harsh enviroment, while i wont miss the set screws tbh.

Click to expand...

Yeah that makes sense. I like the price point of the smaller drivers.

cobshopgrow said:

only the "blank" version, who isnt for the free market dont have anything to set the current.
you can probably order a large batch"blank" from mean well and they preset it to anything you want.
for the free market there is just A and AB, they can dim.

i just have a XLG 25 A type in use, there is a screw on the bottom to set the current, youll need to measure inline to know whats up, or guess from your wall meter readings.

AB type seems to have no screw in the case (?), just the external dim wire, as far i see, differs to the HLG AB types.

https://www.meanwell-web.com/content/files/pdfs/productPdfs/MW/XLG-240/XLG-240.pdf

Click to expand...

So these are by far the most versatile drivers we've ever had available to us then?

theyre cool, but consider that meanwell also updated their HLG line with AB versions.
theyre as versatile.

cobshopgrow said:

theyre cool, but consider that meanwell also updated their HLG line with AB versions.

https://www.meanwell-web.com/content/files/pdfs/productPdfs/MW/HLG-240H-C/HLG-240H-C1400AB.pdf

theyre as versatile.

Click to expand...

What decides what is L M or H?

cobshopgrow said:

theyre cool, but consider that meanwell also updated their HLG line with AB versions.

https://www.meanwell-web.com/content/files/pdfs/productPdfs/MW/HLG-240H-C/HLG-240H-C1400AB.pdf

theyre as versatile.

Click to expand...

And to be clear, the XLG 100/150 models only come in 12/24V options. So they're going to be used just like an HLG CV for parallel wiring right?
Then this XLG-240 is a series wired driver if you set the current, how do you know how much voltage it can handle/needs?
If you wanted to though, you could in theory crank it all the way up to highest current, and run enough strips in series to reach At Least the voltage minimum but then add parallel, more series of same amount of strips and split the current, even again, or another time for 4 parallel lines.

Am I way off?

Low constant current range
Medium constant current range
High constant current range

Airwalker16 said:

XLG 100/150 models only come in 12/24V options

Click to expand...

Scroll down further on the data sheets,
XLG100 has L and H, 150 has L, M, H.

This series has me losing my noodle.

Chip Green said:

Scroll down further on the data sheets,
XLG100 has L and H, 150 has L, M, H.

This series has me losing my noodle.

Click to expand...

So where's the 240's 12 n' 24V versions?

Those must not exist.

Chip Green said:

Those must not exist.

Click to expand...

That's just weird.... LRS goes clear up to 350watts and comes in like a dozen voltages.

dont overcomplicate it.
whats new is that you have some wiggle room for the current on CC drivers.

comes in handy if you want to max out the driver but dont reach his max voltage,
then you push the current up and can max him out.

check the given ranges.
XLG 240 L f.e.
239.4W
700~1050mA
178~ 342V

342V x 1050mA are 359W,
the 240W driver probably wont give that much.
so one factor limits the other
if you want 342V then the driver wont give much more then 700mA.

Airwalker16 said:

So where's the 240's 12 n' 24V versions?

Click to expand...

12V 240W version would mean 20A on the cable, thats a lot.
maybe a reason they skipped it.
The lrs have several screw terminals, easier to distribute the power.
just my opinion.

cobshopgrow said:

dont overcomplicate it.
whats new is that you have some wiggle room for the current on CC drivers.

comes in handy if you want to max out the driver but dont reach his max voltage,
then you push the current up and can max him out.

check the given ranges.
XLG 240 L f.e.
239.4W
700~1050mA
178~ 342V

342V x 1050mA are 359W,
the 240W driver probably wont give that much.
so one factor limits the other
if you want 342V then the driver wont give much more then 700mA.

Click to expand...

Yeah, it took me a few looks to get that sorted out in my mind.
At first, I felt like these drivers were enchanted, and could create energy from nothing.

cobshopgrow said:

only the "blank" version, who isnt for the free market dont have anything to set the current.
you can probably order a large batch"blank" from mean well and they preset it to anything you want.
for the free market there is just A and AB, they can dim.

i just have a XLG 25 A type in use, there is a screw on the bottom to set the current, youll need to measure inline to know whats up, or guess from your wall meter readings.

AB type seems to have no screw in the case (?), just the external dim wire, as far i see, differs to the HLG AB types.

https://www.meanwell-web.com/content/files/pdfs/productPdfs/MW/XLG-240/XLG-240.pdf

Click to expand...

I just got an XLG 240 AB, and there is a dimmer on the bottom, but I added the included potentiometer and it's sweet. So far I can run it from 28-250W. I have the bottom dimmer set to 100%, and just use the potentiometer to adjust. I don't know if it would go any lower if I turned the bottom one down. I'm still experimenting though. I was so stoked to see this come with my HLG V1 kit, that I ordered another that will be here tomorrow.

ah cool, then my eyes where wrong and there is a setscrew in the bottom.
i just have a xlg25 A version in use.

think youre completly fine leaving the pot untouched in your case and just use the external dimmer.
dont think you will be able to go much lower then about 10%, whatever pot you use.

i have also a HLG40 and 60 AB in use, they have a onboard screw for voltage and current as the external potentiometer wire.
as i dont use them at max watt, i limited the current by the onboard screw to i can go 100% on my dimmer and just reached the desired wattage.
in that case the extra screw makes sense to me.

cobshopgrow said:

ah cool, then my eyes where wrong and there is a setscrew in the bottom.
i just have a xlg25 A version in use.

think youre completly fine leaving the pot untouched in your case and just use the external dimmer.
dont think you will be able to go much lower then about 10%, whatever pot you use.

i have also a HLG40 and 60 AB in use, they have a onboard screw for voltage and current as the external potentiometer wire.
as i dont use them at max watt, i limited the current by the onboard screw to i can go 100% on my dimmer and just reached the desired wattage.
in that case the extra screw makes sense to me.

Click to expand...

I'm new to adjusting these things and all the different types they have, lol. It's pretty damn confusing since some AB drivers have 2 screws and some have 1. Mine only has the 1.