Wtf!

cc2012

Well-Known Member
Sorry about the Title, but like it say's What The F*@K?! Well I finally got My 6" TT Fan setup hanging from the ceiling about a foot in front of the 600w Hps, now instead of Lowering the Temp it has increased it???

Been saving money, and Buying Kit for over year now(Trying to do things the Right Way) but the more I try to improve Air-Flow, Intake and Exhaust...just seem to be bashing My head against the wall!

So "Rant Over" I figure even though Cool-Tubes get slated(10-20% Loss) I am going to have to Buy one...We have only had Good weather for 1 week and don't wanna be stressing about this in the future.

Finding Info about what size Cool-Tube to use for what size Bulb(watts) is a bit of a Joke..even in Google..just get answer regarding what Fan Size to use...

Regardless of the "Fan Size" would a 6" Cool-Tube work(properly) with a 600w Hps

Just found this on ThcTalk not sure how accurate it is though...

5 inch or 125mm are for up to 400w HID bulbs
6 inch or 150mm are for up to 600w HID bulbs
8 inch or 200mm are for up to 1000w HID bulbs

Any pointers be Great Guys/Gals...

I'm not bothered about loss of Light/Lumens..least not 10-20% and think its a Good trade-off if the Heat from the Hps is exhausted straight outta the GR.

Thanks for any replies in advance.

:evil::evil::-?:-?:cry::cry:
 

cc2012

Well-Known Member
Just on FleaBay looking at Cool-Tubes...anyone Bought a Cheap £30 or less FleaBay Cool-Tube and been Happy with it, and what size Bulb did you use with it..?

Peace
 

cc2012

Well-Known Member
Well nobody has popped along yet?

Just found this one on FleaBay...anyone Got one? Or used one?

cool-tube-1.jpg

6" Inch Cool Tube Hydroponic Air Cooled Reflector Grow Room E40 HPS 150mm

= £31.99 and Free PnP

Specifications:

Hammered dimpled anodised aluminium highly polished reflective surface
Additional external double wing reflector extension
6" 150mm dia duct connection - standard 6" duct connects to either side (use clips and/or ali duct tape)
Pull out support lugs
Suitable for E40 fitting Sodium, Metal Halide lamps: 250w, 400w & 600w
4m cable with IEC connector (plug straight into your lighting ballast)
CE marked and RoHs approved
Glass length 400mm
Overall length 500mm

Any Feedback be Great...Thanks

:-?
 

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
where are you exhausting to and where are you getting your cool air intake from? If both are in the next room then you're gradually ramping up the temperature of that room thus diminishing the cooling potential of the intake air. Exhaust should be to outdoors.
 

cc2012

Well-Known Member
Hiya SnapsProvolone, Well I've got Cold(UK) Fresh? Air from window that's cover and got Passive intake @ the moment(Got Fan for this too - to pull more in) and the Exhaust is out of the room at top of the door in the panel I replaced(Was Glass)

4" Intake + 4" Fan(Shit in my mind, though think shorter duct run would improve this??)

6" Exhaust with a 6" Fan shifting(Supposedly? shifting 500 sumat cf??) not at home but can check...this is on about 4' Ducting and aimed straight at bulb about a 1' away...was thinking about using a little more Ducting on the Pull side(None there yet) to take ducting over the reflector I have @ the moment...

I mean I can feel a good Blast of COLD air coming from the Exhaust port...but thought maybe it should be warm if doing it's job...

Giving me a Headache!

Thanks for reply.

EDIT: I exhaust into a Hallway and apart from the Day Time this week my Flat is Always cold 12-15 most of the time(no Heating, Can't afford..British Gas...LOL)
 

vostok

Well-Known Member
Well nobody has popped along yet?

Just found this one on FleaBay...anyone Got one? Or used one?

View attachment 3024920

6" Inch Cool Tube Hydroponic Air Cooled Reflector Grow Room E40 HPS 150mm

= £31.99 and Free PnP

Specifications:

Hammered dimpled anodised aluminium highly polished reflective surface
Additional external double wing reflector extension
6" 150mm dia duct connection - standard 6" duct connects to either side (use clips and/or ali duct tape)
Pull out support lugs
Suitable for E40 fitting Sodium, Metal Halide lamps: 250w, 400w & 600w
4m cable with IEC connector (plug straight into your lighting ballast)
CE marked and RoHs approved
Glass length 400mm
Overall length 500mm

Any Feedback be Great...Thanks

:-?
This is the one, a couple of jubilee clips each end a corresponding extract fan(allow for a carbon filter by adding 25% hp. if necessary), avoid kinks and bends at all costs...later when you got he cash a fan controller too...?
 

jrainman

Active Member
Really make me LOL, I used to try and help guys here with there heat issues and try to make them understand how to move air and cool air in there grow area. You see I have been in this field for well over 35 yrs , I came here to learn how to grow,

I only can say you have a mess of a set up. and really need to take some time understanding how to move air properly.

it will save you lots of money in the long run ,if you first buy this ( pictures). and then after you have calculated the proper size equipment and duct work,
then you go buy what is needed with knowing the money you spend will not be wasted and then more money trying to correct all the issues you created buy not taing the proper step.

It amazes me how people will take so much time to grow properly by educating them self ,but then they guess when it comes to environment set up.
 

Attachments

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
Really make me LOL, I used to try and help guys here with there heat issues and try to make them understand how to move air and cool air in there grow area. You see I have been in this field for well over 35 yrs , I came here to learn how to grow,

I only can say you have a mess of a set up. and really need to take some time understanding how to move air properly.

it will save you lots of money in the long run ,if you first buy this ( pictures). and then after you have calculated the proper size equipment and duct work,
then you go buy what is needed with knowing the money you spend will not be wasted and then more money trying to correct all the issues you created buy not taing the proper step.

It amazes me how people will take so much time to grow properly by educating them self ,but then they guess when it comes to environment set up.
+rep. All to true indeed.
 

cc2012

Well-Known Member
Cheers for reply vostok, I have made a couple of Changes to the Setup and now the Smaller Intake Fan IS connected about 16" from the Window Board Hole(realised something while doing this) because I had opened the window(small one) and then hung a bamboo blind before fixing the Board over the whole window(well I covered the board facing out with Curtain,same colour as the Blind ~ Trying to be stealth-ish...in case any any one got up close, though would have be a right nosey Git or Window cleaner...OR worse Rozzers)
I Didn't cut a hole in the curtain covering the Flange!! DOH! so sorted that and re-hung the Ducting, connected the Intake Fan and Hey Presto A Good Blast of Cold(Fresh) Air now entering the GR..:twisted: Anyway the GR Temp is now 24.0° and the Humidity is 40% Kinda happy but gotta nip back and check after 1-2 hrs see if stay same/gone lower(Pray)/gone higher(NFW!) still going to get that Cool-Tube...WAN'T to be able to Vent the Hot Air from build out of the Room, Not bothered about the Light/Lumen loss 10-20%(will be using the BIG ASS Fan less) Cooling the Bulb and be able to get it closer to ladies.

And as for -

jrainman said:
it will save you lots of money in the long run ,if you first buy this ( pictures). and then after you have calculated the proper size equipment and duct work,
then you go buy what is needed with knowing the money you spend will not be wasted and then more money trying to correct all the issues you created buy not taing(??) the proper step.
I Didn't need to buy one of them and waste money(You can do this online for FREE) After using a FREE online TOOL I Then Took the proper steps and selected the Kit I Needed for the GR based on calculations(Which I double checked) In-fact I got a Bigger Exhaust Fan than needed so in the Future I would be able to run at lesser speed rather than full throttle all the tiime thereby giving the Fan an easier time...Thanks for pictures of Fan Law Calculator...but NOT needed...already did MY homework...Thanks!

Photo-0261.jpg Photo-0260.jpg Photo-0262.jpg
This GR has been evolving for the last few weeks, funds are tight but I'm getting there...Slowly..
Photo-0263.jpg Photo-0264.jpg Photo-0265.jpg
Next the Cool-Tube and another Fan/Exhaust hole(Flange)

Then I should be able to Dial GR to MY desired Level...

Peace

:twisted:
 

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
Every bend in your duct is hurting cfm. The blower you have is ok but not awesome at dealing with static losses.

Where you must bend, use wide radius bends.
 

cc2012

Well-Known Member
Every bend in your duct is hurting cfm. The blower you have is ok but not awesome at dealing with static losses.

Where you must bend, use wide radius bends.
Yeah cheers Snaps, know bends are not good for cfm Performance/Loss...but had to get the kit hanging up some how, once I've got some more Hooks and Bungee cords, will try and re-position the ducting..esp the tightness on the bends...which I'm gonna go a take a look at now...The Blower is shifting loads of Air(Its quite a Blast exiting the Duct Flange) It was the Intake that was doing Jack Sh*t and that was My bad...next thing I'm thinking about is the placement of My Temp Monitors(x2) and Temp Thermostat...got a sneaking feeling that's not helping...


Cheers for reply

:twisted:
 
I think the bends are the problem. Plus the distance it has to move in each direction.. you should get a cheap 20 inline booster fan for both ends if the exhaust is over five feet with more than one or to 90 degree bends. Where is the heat entering the duct? Looks like thw bottom which would be skin your cool air out. Id get the entrance to the exhaust higher as heat rises. Your getting there though
 
Nm I see what u got goin now. Could u shorten the duct to suck from the front end of the bat wing? Would stop the entrance band and shorten duct reducing static loses an you can get a chap pc fan and wire it behind the bulb blowing toward the duct which my help some
 

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
Im thinking the blower would do more good mounted as close to the exhaust hole with no duct simply blasting hot air out of the room. No duct. That blower just can't handle it.
 

cc2012

Well-Known Member
Cheers Peeps, I will be Happy when it's sorted...I know that The BIG ASS fan is more than capable just not taking the HOT air out? or much of it.. I know I need to re-position BallinOnABudget for the Heat raising...just where to put it? don't feel much Heat above the Reflctor...which again I think is not helping...The Reflector/Bulb/Ballast was cheap n cheerful? Master Blaster and the Fan/Filter kits was also cheap-ish(though I did get the best I could) but having only used these(Fans ~ Vents TT) don't think I will Buy em again..But I must not be hasty about this and at least try and get it Setup as best I can, then Judge it.

Going to have to take the smaller Inline Fan off the Wall makes TOO much noise and vibration, gonna cut a small piece of MDF and ount on this and hang from the ceiling on Bungee's OR not sure IF would work with these Fans, But maybe build a box for it to sit in and stuff box around the fan with foam..seem to remember some peeps doing this or seen it in a Video Clip...

I'm still thinking a Cool-Tube venting straight out + the Big Ass Fan(as well) but on a Shorter But Higher Duct Run with the Carbon Filter connected to it..this way if the Cool-Tube has a designated Exhaust and Fan..most of the heat should Vent straight out apart from a little Residual Heat which would be taken care of with ease by the Big Ass Fan/Carbon Filter.

It is because of the last week and Good Temps in the UK that I am sorting it now...Plus I NEED to start 12/12 this week...

Placement of Temp Monitor and Thermostat still bugging Me...

Going to have a look/feel?? for a better position for the Exhaust Ducting....Also the position of the Oscillating Fans(1 @Ground Level and 1 @ Tops of Ladies) is doing my head in...I WILL sort it!

Peace

:twisted:

Snaps the Exhaust Blower shifting LOADS of Air..just NOT Hot? Though a Shorter Run and Higher might do the Trick..
 
That bat wing is the issue. Cool tube is not something id get. Spend the money on an air cooled hood.much better in my opinion. And snaps is prolly right I didn't think about a straight blower. Cost of blower vs ach id go with ach myself and keep the duct. Heat should diminish alot
 

cc2012

Well-Known Member
Nm I see what u got goin now. Could u shorten the duct to suck from the front end of the bat wing? Would stop the entrance band and shorten duct reducing static loses an you can get a chap pc fan and wire it behind the bulb blowing toward the duct which my help some
Cheers BallineOnABudget, before I moved into this GR I had a different setup but I did have a fan Blowing directly at 250w Hps Bulb from behind(same Level) and was able get the Bulb/light real close to Ladies..with no Heat issues...

So going to try what you just Post and monitor for a bit..

Thanks again for help...
 

cc2012

Well-Known Member
Yeah I'm not a Big fan of the bat-wing Reflector, But think for the Lumens/Light lost with a Cool-Tube can be off-set...would Love a Good Hood...but they are $$$$ just buying the cheap-ass Cool-Tube I post a Pic of will break the bank(Well for this week) but I fear more from the noise level of the little Fan than the Big one?? that's gonna have change(way its mounted) Or go and just have Passive Intakes...but Multiple? maybe 4 x 4 > 6" flanges with shorter duct runs...

First a few re-positions?? see what can be done...then Cool-Tube...

Peace

Off to have a play....

:twisted:
 
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