Would Appreciate Feedback & Criticism On New Rooms Ventilation System

Hello again everyone. I'm about to buy the last few duct fittings needed to set up the most important part of this new grow room, the ventilation. As you all know this is where a lot of people waste $ & btu's ($) so I drew a diagram of the ventilation system I'm planning to go with for everyone to see & let me know what they think.

Question 1: I only want to create two air holes in the walls (I own house) for an intake & exhaust for both the small grow room (9ft X 7ft x 7ft) and to exhaust & cool the two 1k mh/hps cool tube lights running digital ballast.
As you'll see in the diagram, I'm using a WYE at the beginning and ends of the mainline. I haven't ordered these WYE'S because I wanted to ask you guys if T's would be better or work better?

Question 2: Do you see problems? Where would you make changes?

Details: The main trunk line is 6" insulated sound proofed 24 gauge metal ducting using a few feet of 6" insulated flexible duct work on the ends of each light for light movement and in between another section of the insulated metal ducting. All of this ducting has been hung using 36" adjustable rubber tie downs with a heavy duty tensile strength. All the fans are encased in cheap 1" insulation sound deadening boxes made from simple insulation Styrofoam and the special glue that bonds it. I made a box for my air pump and inline air cooled water pump which are also going to be hung using the rubber straps to rid as much vibration and noise as possible.

The trunk line has a plastic bladed booster fan at the intake next to the wall (210CFM) & 6" heavier duty Sunleaves (410CFM) fan connected to the exhaust side of the second light. Good or bad idea? I planned to put another Sunleaves (410CFM) intake fan on the WYE cooling the room and a 2nd booster fan (210CFM) exhausting the room through a WYE out the 24" rechargeable carbon filter that exhausts outside. All the fans have speed control knobs and the two room fans are plugged into temperature controller plug outlets that can be set between 65'F - 90'F to automatically kick on. I have it figured to change out the air in the room completely ever 1minute 22 seconds.

I leave the option to split the room into a veg / bloom with a wall but for now no wall, no more $. Also, I framed using 2x4's a wooden framed cage in the room keeping a 3" gap of air surrounding the whole set up that the normal climate control runs giving no FLIR signature. What do ya think? All I have left to buy are either the T's or WYE duct fittings, just wanted your guys input.

IMHO,

Air cool the lights with 1 fan on its own circuit.

Booster fans are garbage. CFM ratings change a lot when duct work gets involved and booster fans (axial) fall on their face.

Passive intakes make things easier.

- Jiji

[Do you think it would be a better idea to just place the pair of 410 CFM 6" inline fans at the end of the run at the ends of the exhaust WYE tips so they don't compete and work as a pair? Then I was thinking of running a piece of hard duct (short piece) to about the height of the top of the 5 gallon buckets, and just have it screened & filtered off as a passive intake as you said? The two 410's should be plenty of power to keep the room air changed once a minute and lights cool. It's only a total of like 12 feet from intake to exhaust. Any ideas on how to hide the intake end? Just don't want to have a bunch of vents visible. I was thinking a birdhouse that has one wall with a hole cut out?

Thanks for the input!

think the formula is 7x7x9 for ft3.=441ft3...so 2 of those will work fine, no booster needed, pasive intake will be fine in my opinion.one on the lights n one for the room should work in theory. im not a hvac pro though, @subcool holla back lol

jijiandfarmgang said:

IMHO,

Air cool the lights with 1 fan on its own circuit.

Booster fans are garbage. CFM ratings change a lot when duct work gets involved and booster fans (axial) fall on their face.

Passive intakes make things easier.

- Jiji

Click to expand...

The booster fans I figured at 210 CFM because it said in the ad 150 CFM on there own and 210 CFM when used as a secondary fan, the kind of thing where if you have a huge house and a room isn't staying warm or cool because the runs to long you add those. But I think the two 410 CFM Sunleaves fans set up with both at the same spots on the WYE fitting should keepn the lights way cool and the rooms air exchange every 1.5 minutes. The run of ducting (the main) is only 12 feet long! LOL So I think, well hope it works & hope another WYE at the beginning will be adequate ass an intake. Man this room has been expensive. I've taken every detail to the max trying to work out all the kinks before. Normally in the past I've never went through this much hassle. Still debating on weather to divide the two lights into two spaces to have a perpetual setup. I've got a decent little area for clones and one large mother set up in a closet in this same room using two 2ft on the walls and one 4ft 8 bulb T5HO's. If I don't go with perpetual I'm probably gonna move the T5'S out to bigger area as supplemental side lighting maybe. Just don't have the extra money to change around the ventilation more and get more materials to build a light proof wall. idk thanks for listening to me thinking out loud. lol!

I don't want to say what will for sure work because there are variables.

But the good thing is experimenting is easy.

So your not worried about smell I take it?

I don't really get your birdcage thing but I dunno. I'm using a 2050 cfm fan and passive intake through some furnace filters. I tried framing out some speaker fabric on the outside wall to make it look nice, but it would just get dirty hella fast duh..........

The coolest option you have with what you got, is one six inch fan sucking though both hoods, open intake of hood in tent (not outside). The other 6 inch fan exhausting outside with intake in tent. Passive intake.

- Jiji

jijiandfarmgang said:

I don't want to say what will for sure work because there are variables.

But the good thing is experimenting is easy.

So your not worried about smell I take it?

I don't really get your birdcage thing but I dunno. I'm using a 2050 cfm fan and passive intake through some furnace filters. I tried framing out some speaker fabric on the outside wall to make it look nice, but it would just get dirty hella fast duh..........

The coolest option you have with what you got, is one six inch fan sucking though both hoods, open intake of hood in tent (not outside). The other 6 inch fan exhausting outside with intake in tent. Passive intake.

- Jiji

Click to expand...

The bird cage or cage thing I described (LOL), is this - Using 2x2's, 2x4's, 4x8 sheets of MDF board I framed a second room inside the bedroom building it 3.5 inches off the floor & all the way around then hung the MDF on those wooden studs. I did this so every time my furnace or A/C kicks on it will circulate that 70'F air around my secondary room creating no bright red grow room heat signature for the FUZZ to see when they fly around with the helicopter. If your still wondering about that check this out -
I shouldn't say that was the main reason for building the secondary room. The main reason is I wanted to be able to drill holes to fasten everything in, hang my mylar on the OSB where I drilled holes and used nuts and bolts to hold the MDF mylar covered pieces to the framing (I built entire thing so it can be torn down piece by piece and go with me to my next home & not to mention the 4 mil mylar 4ft X 100ft roll wasn't cheap! Yeah I know I should have just bought a tent but one with the IR shielding is crazy expensive. Besides, IMHO, my wooden structure is way more stable then a tent .

And yeah girly I have a 24" rechargeable carbon filter that's going on the end of the main trunk line for smell. Just couldn't fit that into the diagram. But yeah your fan is impressive, you have some serious $ into your grow to huh. I remember you had a chiller and all that. Nothing hotter than a girl who can talk shop with the grower community!