World Of Hempy

smoothness

smoothness

Active Member
Dalek Supreme said:
Looks like a little overwatering,and a whole lot of worrying.
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according to hempy himself, he said you have to water everyday and you techinically cant overwater with hempy buckets. watering more often bring water and nutes to the top nutes. its heat stress cause when i raised the lights some of the drooping got less droopy haha. i seen some day 19 from seed plants are way bigger then mines. am i doing anything else wrong? ph is 6.5 and i got root excelurator in the mix. heard that was wonder juice /steroids for plants. seems like growth is stopping.
 
stoneslacker

stoneslacker

Well-Known Member
smoothness said:
according to hempy himself, he said you have to water everyday and you techinically cant overwater with hempy buckets. watering more often bring water and nutes to the top nutes. its heat stress cause when i raised the lights some of the drooping got less droopy haha. i seen some day 19 from seed plants are way bigger then mines. am i doing anything else wrong? ph is 6.5 and i got root excelurator in the mix. heard that was wonder juice /steroids for plants. seems like growth is stopping.
Click to expand...
You most definitely can overwater hempys, and everyday is too often in my opinion. I always wait till my buckets dry out, almost completely dry. Usually works out to 3-4 days during veg and 2-3 days during flower.

Also your ph is too high, especially for veg. I usually run 5.8 ph all the way through but this round I bumped the ph up to 6.0-6.3 about mid-way through flower. Try lowering your ph and adding some cal/mag to help N uptake.
 
Rusty Shakelford

Rusty Shakelford

Well-Known Member
stoneslacker said:
You most definitely can overwater hempys, and everyday is too often in my opinion. I always wait till my buckets dry out, almost completely dry. Usually works out to 3-4 days during veg and 2-3 days during flower.

Also your ph is too high, especially for veg. I usually run 5.8 ph all the way through but this round I bumped the ph up to 6.0-6.3 about mid-way through flower. Try lowering your ph and adding some cal/mag to help N uptake.
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I water daily without any issues at all. Right now I have 100% Perlite that gets watered daily, and a mix of Perlite, Verm, and water those every other day.. Its my understanding that since this is a Passive Hydro system, not watering them is like starving them, although many Hempy People like to run their buckets dry before watering again without any issues,,, So go figure!

I also keep my PH Between 5.8 and 6.2, but usually never get to the 6.2... I like 6.0 personally.
 
smoothness

smoothness

Active Member
Rusty Shakelford said:
I water daily without any issues at all. Right now I have 100% Perlite that gets watered daily, and a mix of Perlite, Verm, and water those every other day.. Its my understanding that since this is a Passive Hydro system, not watering them is like starving them, although many Hempy People like to run their buckets dry before watering again without any issues,,, So go figure!

I also keep my PH Between 5.8 and 6.2, but usually never get to the 6.2... I like 6.0 personally.
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But how can you overwater? It's in perlite 100% and the leaf is drying out. Hempy says you should water everyday to feed the roots on top above the rez. Any excess water is dripped out so there's no stagnant water that drowns the roots. And my cups are usually dry within 24 hrs now. Light and dry. So ph 5.5-6.0 is where my ph should be? I'll change it next watering. Will the dry leaves eventually heal or no? Some of the new growth looks burnt as well. All dry looking so should I fim it off to make way for newer growth?
 
Dalek Supreme

Dalek Supreme

Well-Known Member
smoothness said:
But how can you overwater? It's in perlite 100% and the leaf is drying out. Hempy says you should water everyday to feed the roots on top above the rez. Any excess water is dripped out so there's no stagnant water that drowns the roots. And my cups are usually dry within 24 hrs now. Light and dry. So ph 5.5-6.0 is where my ph should be? I'll change it next watering. Will the dry leaves eventually heal or no? Some of the new growth looks burnt as well. All dry looking so should I fim it off to make way for newer growth?
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Seedlings/clones less is more.

You cannot over water a Hempy,but small root systems can be choked of oxygen if oversaturated.As the Perlite wicks the water down,and with proper enviroment it will perk up.Do not trim a seedling.Let it do with what you provided.Target your PH to 6 with lite strength nute.
 
Praetorian

Praetorian

Well-Known Member
Hello fellow hempys - Just picked up supplies to start converting my soil SOG setup to hempy 2l. Currently, my soil SOG consists of 36 plants under my 1000w HPS (HTG Big Kahuna reflector) and 30 plants under my 600w digital HPS (currently in a 6" cool tube, just ordered a Blockbuster 6" reflector upgrade yesterday). All grown in FFOF 3/4 gallon, 5" pots, FF trio nutes (simple, I know). I grow two strains currently - aurora indica (Nirvana genetics) and BC Gods Bud (local clones). I average yeild about 12g dried per plant but can yield a bit more with my BC-GB if I let it go for 13+ weeks (sativa dom).

I have 8 aurora clones rooted and sitting in my DIY aero cloner for 1-2 more days to elongate and develop my roots a little more before throwing them into my 2l pots and putting them into 12/12 almost immediately (maybe 2 days under 18/6 to adjust, no more). The plan will be to convert my current perpetual setup to 2l hempy. I cut down 22 plants every three weeks. For my hempy setup, I will be using the GH trio (gro, micro, bloom) setup, similar to 420fied's "come SOG with me" thread over on 420mag. I will be using a 75/25 perilite/vermiculite mix.

I am super excited to get started with hempy and yield the benefits! No more soil every month! Shooting for 15g dried. Two questions I am currently pondering and hoping the hempy community can help me with -

First question is a simple one: I don't want to monkey with screens on my drain holes. It looks like those using 2l bottles drill multiple holes (I am thinking 3 evenly spaced radially around the bottle at 2.25" from the base). What bit should I use to drill my drain holes? Is a 1/8" bit big enough to drain but small enough to hold my perilite/vermiculite mix in?

Second question will likely be subjective relative to my local water conditions, environment, nute schedule and strain needs, but I am trying to gauge how others deal with regular cal/mag feedings using tap water. My tap water is about 90-100PPM to start with. My local water company reports on their website that the "hardness" of my local water supply (they state that hardness relates to cal/mag primarily, although I realize its more than those two minerals alone) is 1-2 "grains" per gallon. I realize that my PPM is pretty low and my water is not very hard. Does anyone have some general advice on a regular feeding schedule for cal/mag given these parameters? I dont want to chase a cal/mag def I would like to address it with a regular cycle of feeding so I don't get to that point.

Cheers!
 
Dalek Supreme

Dalek Supreme

Well-Known Member
Praetorian said:
Hello fellow hempys - Just picked up supplies to start converting my soil SOG setup to hempy 2l. Currently, my soil SOG consists of 36 plants under my 1000w HPS (HTG Big Kahuna reflector) and 30 plants under my 600w digital HPS (currently in a 6" cool tube, just ordered a Blockbuster 6" reflector upgrade yesterday). All grown in FFOF 3/4 gallon, 5" pots, FF trio nutes (simple, I know). I grow two strains currently - aurora indica (Nirvana genetics) and BC Gods Bud (local clones). I average yeild about 12g dried per plant but can yield a bit more with my BC-GB if I let it go for 13+ weeks (sativa dom).

I have 8 aurora clones rooted and sitting in my DIY aero cloner for 1-2 more days to elongate and develop my roots a little more before throwing them into my 2l pots and putting them into 12/12 almost immediately (maybe 2 days under 18/6 to adjust, no more). The plan will be to convert my current perpetual setup to 2l hempy. I cut down 22 plants every three weeks. For my hempy setup, I will be using the GH trio (gro, micro, bloom) setup, similar to 420fied's "come SOG with me" thread over on 420mag. I will be using a 75/25 perilite/vermiculite mix.

I am super excited to get started with hempy and yield the benefits! No more soil every month! Shooting for 15g dried. Two questions I am currently pondering and hoping the hempy community can help me with -

First question is a simple one: I don't want to monkey with screens on my drain holes. It looks like those using 2l bottles drill multiple holes (I am thinking 3 evenly spaced radially around the bottle at 2.25" from the base). What bit should I use to drill my drain holes? Is a 1/8" bit big enough to drain but small enough to hold my perilite/vermiculite mix in?

Second question will likely be subjective relative to my local water conditions, environment, nute schedule and strain needs, but I am trying to gauge how others deal with regular cal/mag feedings using tap water. My tap water is about 90-100PPM to start with. My local water company reports on their website that the "hardness" of my local water supply (they state that hardness relates to cal/mag primarily, although I realize its more than those two minerals alone) is 1-2 "grains" per gallon. I realize that my PPM is pretty low and my water is not very hard. Does anyone have some general advice on a regular feeding schedule for cal/mag given these parameters? I dont want to chase a cal/mag def I would like to address it with a regular cycle of feeding so I don't get to that point.

Cheers!
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Welcome to WOH,and I am sure you will see 15g's per plant with the setup with Hempy.

You can try the multi hole thing,but as long as it drains.I say go with a chunkier grade perlite,and make a regular Hempy drain hole.

I used Flora with my tap no probs.I used 1/8-1/4 Tsp of Epsoms salts per gal from the beginning just to make sure Mag was more available,and never new if it needed it or not.I now use Maxibloom with only a pinch of Epsoms salt just for a little boost for the hell of it.I know my tap is not hard,but actual PPMs are unknown to me.Your tap is on the soft side so I would try 1/8 Tsp of the Epsoms if it looks like cal/mag defs,and see if that takes care of it without the added cal.
 
Praetorian

Praetorian

Well-Known Member
So Dalek - You use epsom additive from the start of 12/12 all the way thru the end or just for the first few waterings into bloom and then only there after if you have a cal/mag def?
 
WattSaver

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
With my water I've found that I need cal/mag, 1/2 ml/gal. I have to use it from the beginning clear to the end. But if your water source is in an area of limestone deposits then you probably won't need any. If you haven't needed any working with soil then most likely you won't need it now. Your water is going to determine what you need.
 
Dalek Supreme

Dalek Supreme

Well-Known Member
Praetorian said:
So Dalek - You use epsom additive from the start of 12/12 all the way thru the end or just for the first few waterings into bloom and then only there after if you have a cal/mag def?
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Magnesium Sulphate aids in photosynthesis in a big way.Flora,and Maxibloom has mag but currently I just add a pinch to my nute solution just to add a little extra in another form.The nute solution is used in all my plants.I just dilute strength when needed for each individual plant with PH'ed water directly in my hand feed cup.

Let me explain for example.I have a gallon of 100% nute solution.Now 100% is not the label but what I know feeds the 12/12 stretch for all my plants.If I keep feeding 100% past stretching I will run into N toxicity.So for plants that do not need 100% (FOR MY SETUP*) I will do a 50/50 blend of my 100% nute solution,and just PH'ed water directly into my hand feed cup.This reduces strength
to 50% for my setup.Plants that receive 100% (*for my setup) are mothers that need to produce cuttings,plants starting the 12/12 strectch,and larger vegging plants.plants that get the 50/50 blend of ph'ed water,100% nute solution (for my setup) are post strecth plants,and moms in stasis (no cuttings needed).Any lower strengths are for plants in (what I know for sure) the last 1.5 wks in flower or younger plants in general.

Now Flora,and Maxi has cal/mag but if I did run into deficciencies for my setup?1st thingI would try is the cheaper grocery store available Epsoms,or for Flora bump up the Micro a little.For Maxi is a one part,and would not want to bump that up much if everything else is fine.Mag is usualy the culprit from journals I read,but for my tap/setup,I just add a little just for the importance of the plants needs.One should not need a bottle of cal/mag but start with Epsoms first,starting at 1/8 Tsp,and be aware it acts as a ph down.

I hope this helps.

http://lucasformula.com/

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=191645
 
jela10

jela10

Well-Known Member
Dammit, 19 days into flower and my Cindy's in 2g hempies have reached 53" above the coco each....what a freakin stretch this strain takes on after the flip to 12/12. My LED's height is all but exhausted without special modifications to the hangars which bought me just a few more inches....so I did some super-cropping on each.....pinched and bent the upper 8" down. In one light period they've started to curl back up...might be back vertical today. It will force more growth into the nodes below the pinch and hopefully slow the vertical stretch. I wanted to bend them over like LST but....the main stems were very rigid up to the top foot or so. Fingers crossed they don't hermie from stress and I still get somewhat of a main cola. With the hempy method, you better match your strains to your space limitations, cause it is a plant driver.
 

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WattSaver

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
Nice job jella.

I can feel your pain on the headroom issue. I've run out of room more than once.

Best of luck with the super cropping, I've tried it during the stretch and I'm no master. But one major stem I laid over like your 2nd photo and left it alone,, it never got much above horz again. Another one after laying over I felt like i killed it and supported it at horz & within a couple days it was half way back up to vert again.

Damn plant just wants to thrive.
 
jela10

jela10

Well-Known Member
Just checked this morning..tops still not lifting....the ends are curling up though and bud production is still prolific everywhere else. This C99 might be a nice yeilder even without perfect tops..... I'm used to some really bushy girls with the the hempy bucket but these are somewhat "gangly" since flower. DynaFem "Sweet Deep Grapefruit" did the same thing to me and although "gangly" at first they pushed out a nice set of foxtailed buds.
 
Dalek Supreme

Dalek Supreme

Well-Known Member
jela10 said:
Just checked this morning..tops still not lifting....the ends are curling up though and bud production is still prolific everywhere else. This C99 might be a nice yeilder even without perfect tops..... I'm used to some really bushy girls with the the hempy bucket but these are somewhat "gangly" since flower. DynaFem "Sweet Deep Grapefruit" did the same thing to me and although "gangly" at first they pushed out a nice set of foxtailed buds.
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I treat my 12/12 rooted clones rough.Here is a Jillybean (C99 hybrid) I topped early stretch.Go bush go!
 

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johnnymcpotts

johnnymcpotts

Active Member
Hey everyone, I'm getting ready to make the switch to Hempy Buckets! I have some 2.5 gal and 3 gal buckets to use and look to keep my scrog setup going.

i was thinking 2/3 perlite/verm and not 100 percent on nutes. I currently use cns 17 soil/cocoa with good results, could I use this in hempy?

ill post more once I begin just wanted to stop in and say hi
 
Praetorian

Praetorian

Well-Known Member
WOH - What are the veteran hempy grower's preferences on root length before putting them into the medium? Should they be long enough to reach the reservoir when they get potted or just developed enough to reach there after a few waterings? If I pot them up without roots touching the reservoir will my 25 vermiculite mix wick enough up the medium to reach the roots?? Should I plan on watering daily until I feel they have developed enough?

Cheers
 
WattSaver

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
Praetorian said:
WOH - What are the veteran hempy grower's preferences on root length before putting them into the medium? Should they be long enough to reach the reservoir when they get potted or just developed enough to reach there after a few waterings? If I pot them up without roots touching the reservoir will my 25 vermiculite mix wick enough up the medium to reach the roots?? Should I plan on watering daily until I feel they have developed enough?

Cheers
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Wicking is not a problem, the verm doesn't really wick, it just retains and will give back to the plant freely. The perlite does most of the wicking, and will draw plenty of moisture up to the roots. Many here do water daily till the roots set. I'm on the other side. I take a root bound (or at least fully rooted) soil core and put it in a 3gal bucket with 100% perlite. Water to a good overflow, and leave it alone until it feels empty. Generally this is 5 to 7 days, and continue to the end, always letting it dry if possible.

Perlite has enough capillary action to feed roots 6" or more above the rez. So NO the roots don't have to be long enough to reach the rez.
 
Dalek Supreme

Dalek Supreme

Well-Known Member
johnnymcpotts said:
Hey everyone, I'm getting ready to make the switch to Hempy Buckets! I have some 2.5 gal and 3 gal buckets to use and look to keep my scrog setup going.

i was thinking 2/3 perlite/verm and not 100 percent on nutes. I currently use cns 17 soil/cocoa with good results, could I use this in hempy?

ill post more once I begin just wanted to stop in and say hi
Click to expand...
2.5-3 gal can produce some large plants with Hempy.
You can run 100% Perlite.
I do not know about cns.
 
smoothness

smoothness

Active Member
day 22 update

so i had a little problem. i thought it was heat stress at first but found out i had a nitrogen toxicity nute burn. good thing i caught it in time. flushed it twice two days in a row. now they are looking better. i topped a few of them today and i had fimmed a pair a few days ago. the new growth on the fimmed ones, well one of them looks deformed the other one gave me no new tops so im pissed. but oh well, i guess u can fail at fimming. im running in my nute solution 1ml of root excelurator, less then 1 tspn of dynagrow liquid grow, some calmag, and silca pro. they didnt have dynagrow protekt at my friend's hydro shop. im also feeding it great white. not sure how to best apply it but im testing out new ways. i got the 4oz for 30 bucks. if i fuck up ill just get more. i saw online they are selling 5lbs of mycorrihae granular bag for 90 bucks. i think im going to buy it for the transplant. question, when should i transplant into 7 galllon trash bins? li saw the root mass for one of the plants and they are pretty huge. but i wonder if i have to wait until they wrap around the solo cup for me to transplant or not.

heres my sexy baby girls.





 
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