Will this cheaper LED work?

ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
emerson61 said:
People get all high and mighty, with “I use X light; Y light is crap and only good for veg” sorts of virtue signaling comments when it comes to lighting. I would never deny that LED light quality can vary a lot, but for past 3 years I have used King LED, Viparspectra, and now Phlizon LED lights (often shunned as “cheap Chinese lights”). My current lights- I bought 2 2000 watt natural sunlight design heat sink lights drawing 220w each from the wall (which is what matters the most, by far)- cost about $200 each. I previously used King LED 1500w (about $200), and a Viparspectra 600w (about $175), and the G8 red light (about $180). So, for my past few grows I used lights pulling a total of about 550 watts from the wall, and in my 4x4 tent, I pulled 17, 17, and 18oz of premium quality dense and super frosty buds. The point is, you do not need to spend $500-$1000 or more on a freaking LED light for good results. Don’t buy the hype; You can get good quality diodes and good wattage draw from the wall pretty cheap now. Wattage from the wall is what matters, if you want yield and dense, good quality buds.

More important? Genetics, genetics, genetics!
Click to expand...
when you run your Phlizon next to a non Chinese sourced light you will see why one is cheap.
 
O

oill

Well-Known Member
emerson61 said:
People get all high and mighty, with “I use X light; Y light is crap and only good for veg” sorts of virtue signaling comments when it comes to lighting. I would never deny that LED light quality can vary a lot, but for past 3 years I have used King LED, Viparspectra, and now Phlizon LED lights (often shunned as “cheap Chinese lights”). My current lights- I bought 2 2000 watt natural sunlight design heat sink lights drawing 220w each from the wall (which is what matters the most, by far)- cost about $200 each. I previously used King LED 1500w (about $200), and a Viparspectra 600w (about $175), and the G8 red light (about $180). So, for my past few grows I used lights pulling a total of about 550 watts from the wall, and in my 4x4 tent, I pulled 17, 17, and 18oz of premium quality dense and super frosty buds. The point is, you do not need to spend $500-$1000 or more on a freaking LED light for good results. Don’t buy the hype; You can get good quality diodes and good wattage draw from the wall pretty cheap now. Wattage from the wall is what matters, if you want yield and dense, good quality buds.

More important? Genetics, genetics, genetics!
Click to expand...
Not all leds are born equal
 
emerson61

emerson61

Well-Known Member
Norml56 said:
If they worked so well why did you buy new ones?
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Who doesn’t like to try newer technology? Let he among us still using the same light from 5 years ago cast the first stone. I have the $, so who cares. What’s your point? My point stands that paying twice or three times as much for an LED light might bring better stats and slightly better results given the same genetics and techniques, but if you know what you are doing you can get good yields and just as potent buds.The gentleman said he wanted to avoid big expense. Hey, if a person wants to do something and has the means, they should. Why the snark, dude? No hard feelings, but a bit troll-like.
 
emerson61

emerson61

Well-Known Member
ANC said:
when you run your Phlizon next to a non Chinese sourced light you will see why one is cheap.
Click to expand...
I spaced- it is Sayhon, not Phlizon- but I’m sure have the same view, being from China. But the diodes are good quality, the PAR and other numbers are decent, and just under 4 weeks from seeds popping in my first grow under two lights totaling 4000 led/440 watts from the wall, the canopy is almost 18” and is the most vibrant and healthy I recall. Many outstanding reviews. Great heat sink. Two running full blast (has dimmer and blue/red supplement bar you can turn on or off) in a 4x4 and temp has not exceeded 82 degrees. Let’s see how flower goes. It in no way seems “cheap” except compared with much more expensive lights that might give you marginally better results, given identical genetics and growing skill. My response was to a guy looking to save $, so my points stand.
 
ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
There are no free meals....
the point of photosynthesis is to turn CO2 from the air into sugars by using photons.
To fix one CO2 molecule we need 8 photons.
to make one glucose molecule we need to fix 6 carbon molecules
So you need 48 photons for every molecule of sugars your plant produces...as well as enough CO2...
 
GrowTime38

GrowTime38

Well-Known Member
Previously used two 200W LED "Garage" lights for the grow. Moved this previous close to the flower room and will take clones from it before switching the lights with two 100W flood lights which were previously used for flower on another grow. Should I trim a bit to give more light to the middle? Is LST the best option to maximize yield? New RDWC system is not ready yet so I decided to just make it a DWC which will need more attention.
 

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medicaloutlaw

medicaloutlaw

Well-Known Member
Ive got one of those LED lights in my storage shed does a great job lighting with the 4 adjustable blades. But its a utility light NOT a grow light.
 
GrowTime38

GrowTime38

Well-Known Member
ballist said:
I think you have some kind of PK issue, plant tops don't look right. Your lights seem a bit high also.
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That was a shot of the flower lights actually. The other tent it was in had the lights a lot closer. Moving the plant for a little allowed me to adjust the other lights higher.
 
GrowTime38

GrowTime38

Well-Known Member
medicaloutlaw said:
Ive got one of those LED lights in my storage shed does a great job lighting with the 4 adjustable blades. But its a utility light NOT a grow light.
Click to expand...
30k lumens 6500k temp each, are the grow lights. This was a pic of flower lights with a color of 3500k I believe and 20k lumens each
 
Three Berries

Three Berries

Well-Known Member
If in a tent better get a room height one or you will run out of height unless doing some Bansi or autos. All the light you need doesn't do much good without some headroom.
 
ballist

ballist

Well-Known Member
GrowTime38 said:
30k lumens 6500k temp each, are the grow lights. This was a pic of flower lights with a color of 3500k I believe and 20k lumens each
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You will need the light close with that kind of light output. You want around 45000 lumens min for flower. 3500k you can use all the way from grow to flower.
 
MyBallzItch

MyBallzItch

Well-Known Member
GrowTime38 said:
Previously used two 200W LED "Garage" lights for the grow. Moved this previous close to the flower room and will take clones from it before switching the lights with two 100W flood lights which were previously used for flower on another grow. Should I trim a bit to give more light to the middle? Is LST the best option to maximize yield? New RDWC system is not ready yet so I decided to just make it a DWC which will need more attention.
Click to expand...
Is your ph in range? How are your roots looking? They look either underfed or locked out. I started using hydroguard when I was running hydro. I know a lot of people talk shit about it but it's a good product to me. Keep those roots nice and white
 
Roger A. Shrubber

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
Horselover fat said:
A white light led of a reasonable colour temp will grow pretty much the same as another, if they produce the same ammount of light. None of them have magic photons. Some use less electricity to produce the same light, but that has very little to do with how they grow.
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some of them are built out of quality components and some of them aren't...some of them will last decades, and some will last maybe 1 or 2 years before diodes start to burn out and/or drivers take a shit...
 
MyBallzItch

MyBallzItch

Well-Known Member
Roger A. Shrubber said:
some of them are built out of quality components and some of them aren't...some of them will last decades, and some will last maybe 1 or 2 years before diodes start to burn out and/or drivers take a shit...
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The gap on that stuff is/has closed. The Chinese stuff is right about the same "quality" now. You're talking about lower bin diodes but it's not like it used to be. For example the mars lamps now have name brand diodes and meanwell/moso drivers which are not going to take a shit any more than the MW/moso drivers people would diy. Are they a Chinese company who uses questionable (at best) marketing and has lied many times? Yes. Are they putting out decent lamps at fair prices? I would also say yes.

You're just not getting the same reports about the Chinese lights like there used to be. I've had a mars fc since they released pre order and it's been a nice light in the 3x3. No problems personally with the diodes or drivers
 
Roger A. Shrubber

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
MyBallzItch said:
The gap on that stuff is/has closed. The Chinese stuff is right about the same "quality" now. You're talking about lower bin diodes but it's not like it used to be. For example the mars lamps now have name brand diodes and meanwell/moso drivers which are not going to take a shit any more than the MW/moso drivers people would diy. Are they a Chinese company who uses questionable (at best) marketing and has lied many times? Yes. Are they putting out decent lamps at fair prices? I would also say yes.

You're just not getting the same reports about the Chinese lights like there used to be. I've had a mars fc since they released pre order and it's been a nice light in the 3x3. No problems personally with the diodes or drivers
Click to expand...
that's good to hear, but i think i'll wait another year or two and see how they perform before i'd drop any money on them
 
Norml56

Norml56

Well-Known Member
emerson61 said:
Who doesn’t like to try newer technology? Let he among us still using the same light from 5 years ago cast the first stone. I have the $, so who cares. What’s your point? My point stands that paying twice or three times as much for an LED light might bring better stats and slightly better results given the same genetics and techniques, but if you know what you are doing you can get good yields and just as potent buds.The gentleman said he wanted to avoid big expense. Hey, if a person wants to do something and has the means, they should. Why the snark, dude? No hard feelings, but a bit troll-like.
Click to expand...
I'm using the same Original HLG QB, 288 V1 boards that are now about 5 years old, I won't upgrade them until they fail. I was just curious as to why you would upgrade from those lights after recommending them to the OP
 
hotrodharley

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
emerson61 said:
People get all high and mighty, with “I use X light; Y light is crap and only good for veg” sorts of virtue signaling comments when it comes to lighting. I would never deny that LED light quality can vary a lot, but for past 3 years I have used King LED, Viparspectra, and now Phlizon LED lights (often shunned as “cheap Chinese lights”). My current lights- I bought 2 2000 watt natural sunlight design heat sink lights drawing 220w each from the wall (which is what matters the most, by far)- cost about $200 each. I previously used King LED 1500w (about $200), and a Viparspectra 600w (about $175), and the G8 red light (about $180). So, for my past few grows I used lights pulling a total of about 550 watts from the wall, and in my 4x4 tent, I pulled 17, 17, and 18oz of premium quality dense and super frosty buds. The point is, you do not need to spend $500-$1000 or more on a freaking LED light for good results. Don’t buy the hype; You can get good quality diodes and good wattage draw from the wall pretty cheap now. Wattage from the wall is what matters, if you want yield and dense, good quality buds.

More important? Genetics, genetics, genetics!
Click to expand...
I bought a Phlizon FD6500. I love this thing. The only reason I bought it was Amazon delivered it free. All other bar type LED like the Growers Choice ROI? $200 shipping. But I would buy another Phlizon.
 
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