Which pH chart do you think it more accurate?

Chart 1 indicates that in soil (on the right side) that the pH range for Mn and Fe uptake ends at 6.5 whereas in the second chart Mn goes straight through from 5 - 7.5 and Fe up to 7. Reason I'm asking is because every pH test I've done so far comes has been on the high end around 6.8 - 7 and I'm curious to know if I should try to lower the pH slightly to 6.5?

Personally (and with no scientific knowledge) id go with the bottom one.
My reasoning is that i also grow in soil that sits at roughly 6.8 (my water is 6.6) and they seem to pic up everything fine.

People say that soil buffers..no idea what that really means..but ..

Soil pH will drop by around a point - a whole point.
As it dries out. It raises back up to the "resting" point.
This natural swing in pH - allows for effective up-take of all nutrients.

So, no.....don't attempt to regulate the soils pH.....soil self pH's

"IF" you get pH problems (don't overfeed) and/or your simply not comfortable with where your solution pH levels are when you apply them....
Simply pH all in-going to 6.5 in veg and 6.7 in bloom - It's that simple.

Please @Dr. Who can you elaborate little more about soil buffering?? I wanna know more about,coz I always had ph problems/lockout..

MKP – Bloom Booster, Monopotassium phosphate (also potassium dihydrogen phosphate, KDP, or monobasic potassium phosphate, MKP or MPK) — KH2PO4 — is a soluble salt which is used as a fertilizer, a food additive and a fungicide. It is a source of phosphorus and potassium.

It is also a buffering agent. When used in fertilizer mixtures with urea and ammonium phosphates, it minimizes escape of ammonia by keeping the pH at a relatively low level.

MKP is a fully water-soluble P-K fertilizer. It contains 23% P and 29% K. As a Nitrogen-free fertilizer, MKP is the perfect instrument to control the so important nutrient balance between N, P and K.

Using MKP offers the opportunity to give the most preferred K-source, but also to limit or avoid the use of Nitrogen in accordance to the crop’s needs.

Due to its high quality characteristics, MKP can be applied in hydroponic systems, in fertigation or as a foliage spray.

From the sales blurb on the MKP I use.

ANC said:

MKP – Bloom Booster, Monopotassium phosphate (also potassium dihydrogen phosphate, KDP, or monobasic potassium phosphate, MKP or MPK) — KH2PO4 — is a soluble salt which is used as a fertilizer, a food additive and a fungicide. It is a source of phosphorus and potassium.

It is also a buffering agent. When used in fertilizer mixtures with urea and ammonium phosphates, it minimizes escape of ammonia by keeping the pH at a relatively low level.

MKP is a fully water-soluble P-K fertilizer. It contains 23% P and 29% K. As a Nitrogen-free fertilizer, MKP is the perfect instrument to control the so important nutrient balance between N, P and K.

Using MKP offers the opportunity to give the most preferred K-source, but also to limit or avoid the use of Nitrogen in accordance to the crop’s needs.

Due to its high quality characteristics, MKP can be applied in hydroponic systems, in fertigation or as a foliage spray.

From the sales blurb on the MKP I use.

Click to expand...

Too high a P.....You don't ever "need" a "bloom booster".......

Diskokobaja said:

Please @Dr. Who can you elaborate little more about soil buffering?? I wanna know more about,coz I always had ph problems/lockout..

Click to expand...

Sigh....

What soil do you use?
What nutrient?
How much?
How often?
What is your water source?
What is the water pH before adding nutrient?
After?
Add or use any supplements? = List everything you add to the feeding or the soil...

This will be the first step in me giving real help to your ongoing problem.

I'll be back tomorrow mourning...

Dr. Who said:

Sigh....

What soil do you use?
What nutrient?
How much?
How often?
What is your water source?
What is the water pH before adding nutrient?
After?
Add or use any supplements? = List everything you add to the feeding or the soil...

This will be the first step in me giving real help to your ongoing problem.

I'll be back tomorrow mourning...

Click to expand...

I

have none of problems..

i just wanna hear more about you said.. "
Soil pH will drop by around a point - a whole point.
As it dries out. It raises back up to the "resting" point.
This natural swing in pH - allows for effective up-take of all nutrients.

So, no.....don't attempt to regulate the soils pH.....soil self pH's"

in plain language..

Diskokobaja said:

Please @Dr. Who I always had ph problems/lockout..

Click to expand...

Dr. Who said:

Sigh....

What soil do you use?
What nutrient?
How much?
How often?
What is your water source?
What is the water pH before adding nutrient?
After?
Add or use any supplements? = List everything you add to the feeding or the soil...

This will be the first step in me giving real help to your ongoing problem.

I'll be back tomorrow mourning...

Click to expand...

Diskokobaja said:

I

have none of (those) problems..

.

Click to expand...

You must of had one or more of those problems.

I had.. But he asked me what's the problem,? I don't have any.. I dont grow currently.. But I would like to hear more about how that buffering of soil works,in plain language.. Keep in mind eng is not my native language..

Diskokobaja said:

I had.. But he asked me what's the problem,? I don't have any.. I dont grow currently.. But I would like to hear more about how that buffering of soil works,in plain language.. Keep in mind eng is not my native language..

Click to expand...

Great, plain language - gee thanks.....

This is not going to be easy.....I'll guess you understand just what pH is = Potential hydrogen.

To make this easier on me, here is a simple educational site that may help explain basic soil pH...and what effects it's natural value....

http://passel.unl.edu/pages/informationmodule.php?idinformationmodule=1130447041&topicorder=6&maxto=10

Now to take that deeper as to the relationship of plant to soil to pH value..

Soils contain fungus and bacteria (living bio's). The spectrum of the type of bio's help form the basic pH value of the soil. Every plant has a "comfort" zone pH. By adding a plant to a soil. The plant exchanges hydrogen (+ charged) cations (ions of minerals) for a nutrient ion. This makes the hydrogen ions increase in the soil, thus lowering the pH. The effect of this is more pronounced in moist soil.

Now root surfaces also take up - charged - nutrient ions. This action helps balance out that rise from the + charged exchange. This of course now raise's the pH.....You sort of get a balance but, you must remember that when wet., the - action is happening more and as it dries the + action is happening more - to a point.

The plant helps "set" the soil it's in, pH value "at rest". The actions of the the plant and the soil briefly change the soils pH value when watered or when moisture in present vs not....

I should also mention that these fungi and bacteria have cations and anions (ions of minerals) on their surface. "electrically" holding or releasing these mineral nutrients they take in from decomposition of the soil. This too effects soil pH value.

Now then. The plant effects what living bio's in the soil thrive and feed the plant. They mutually effect the soils pHto be favorable to the plant. This is part of what is called the SOIL FOOD WEB...

I hope that worked for you Disko! I'm not sure how to put it any simpler.....

Anyone got something to add?

Jeez. The OP asks about which chart to use and gets enough info to write a term paper.

The nutrient availability doesn't suddenly stop at set points on a chart but becomes less or more available depending on pH and interaction with all the other nutes. Deficiencies don't automatically mean the pH is out of whack but can be because of the overabundance or lack of other nutrients. That's why it can be so difficult to figure out what's gong on sometimes with your own plants and even harder when looking at pics of someone else's with very little other info to go on.

Lots of charts to choose from. Take your pick.



















And something to help figure it out.







That's all folks!

Clicked on the wrong one to put up a thumbnail of the big chart and accidentally re-did the last one so here it is.

All charts show a soil PH range of 6.0-7.0 If you have good soil and dont over feed, you shouldn't even have to check PH, good soil self buffers.

OldMedUser said:

Jeez. The OP asks about which chart to use and gets enough info to write a term paper.

The nutrient availability doesn't suddenly stop at set points on a chart but becomes less or more available depending on pH and interaction with all the other nutes. Deficiencies don't automatically mean the pH is out of whack but can be because of the overabundance or lack of other nutrients. That's why it can be so difficult to figure out what's gong on sometimes with your own plants and even harder when looking at pics of someone else's with very little other info to go on.

Lots of charts to choose from. Take your pick.

That's all folks!

Click to expand...

Thanks for the useful info to both OldMed and Dr. Who! I prefer too much info over too little

@Dr. Who Respect for this!! I have to study it a little..

I over-medicated on cocobudder last night and got carried away with the charts.

OldMedUser said:

I over-medicated on cocobudder last night and got carried away with the charts.

Click to expand...

It happens, good info in this thread though.

OldMedUser said:

I over-medicated on cocobudder last night and got carried away with the charts.

Click to expand...

No such thing as too much good information.