Where to Find Something to "switch" Air Flow in Ducting without Unhooking Ducts?

Or even just what to call the fuckin thing. I know I have seen it somewhere. What I am thinking is a "Y" or "T" connector for 6" ducting that has a kind of lever or switch on it so that I can easily direct the air flowing through it to one of 2 different paths, without having to unhook and rehook things up to do it. For anyone wondering why I would want to do this, I am trying to make it so that I have as much flexibility as possible with my air flow from one day to the next.

http://www.plantlightinghydroponics.com/10x8x8-inch-galvanized-connector-p-1545.html
That? You got it T and Y connecters lol.

edit i guess i dont understand the need to reverse the airflow.

what u need is called a damper they have manual ones and motorized but those cost alot
look at dampers in this link http://americanhvacparts.com/duct-work.htm

Thanks for the replies, guys! Pipe, that is my fave online vendor! I need to direct the airflow, not so much reverse it, for a few reasons. One would be like if I would normally expect to have the room pulling air in from outside, but then we have a string of really humid days, making it smarter to just recirculate the air in my room, and use a dehumidifier, even tho it uses a lot of electricity, because pulling air in from outside is also pulling in humidity. There are more reasons, tho. Fabfun, love the avatar, man! The dampers can cut off or allow airflow, I am looking for something that is shaped like a T or a Y, but has a lever or whatever to allow me to switch which "arm" of the top of the T or Y that the air is coming out of (Assuming it is coming in from the bottom). I could use the dampers on that site, but I need 3, and might need another 3 for my Veg room, and those are over 30 bucks each, so each set would be about 100 bucks...(so either 300 or 600 bucks plus shipping, ouch)....it seems I should be able to do a lot better than that price wise. Or maybe this little tweak just isnt cost effective at my small scale, I don't know.

That site is way to high... hahahah on price. Lowes and Home depot has them for $5 each. You would put them into your existing duct just drill a hole.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_306127-4247...t=damper&pl=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=damper

i know they are was posting it so he would know what they are called and what they look like

otheryoda said:

That site is way to high... hahahah on price. Lowes and Home depot has them for $5 each. You would put them into your existing duct just drill a hole.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_306127-4247...t=damper&pl=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=damper

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fabfun said:

i know they are was posting it so he would know what they are called and what they look like

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I meant no ill will. I was just suprised. At work we used to just throw them away when we removed them from Taps (round stickon to connect to square duct) for round duct.

bro its cool i know u didnt
i used to install hvac for a living too
man those attics get hot this time of year dont they
we called taps takeoffs here

otheryoda said:

I meant no ill will. I was just suprised. At work we used to just throw them away when we removed them from Taps (round stickon to connect to square duct) for round duct.

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Sweet!!!! So, one in each "arm" of the Y or T, and I am set?

yep .............but dont expect a airtight seal

SaneLawsMake4SaneSociety said:

Sweet!!!! So, one in each "arm" of the Y or T, and I am set?

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ah, ok. Airtight is totally needed...I guess I will just have to try to make the ducting as easy to reconfigure as possible then. Thanks, guys.

i mean the damper dont make a airtight seal

SaneLawsMake4SaneSociety said:

ah, ok. Airtight is totally needed...I guess I will just have to try to make the ducting as easy to reconfigure as possible then. Thanks, guys.

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than you need a louver type damper with a motorized actuator.

not cheap.

how much are those
some of the automatic dampers where like 300-500 dollars

IAm5toned said:

than you need a louver type damper with a motorized actuator.

not cheap.

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SaneLawsMake4SaneSociety said:

Thanks for the replies, guys! Pipe, that is my fave online vendor! I need to direct the airflow, not so much reverse it, for a few reasons. One would be like if I would normally expect to have the room pulling air in from outside, but then we have a string of really humid days, making it smarter to just recirculate the air in my room, and use a dehumidifier, even tho it uses a lot of electricity, because pulling air in from outside is also pulling in humidity. There are more reasons, tho. Fabfun, love the avatar, man! The dampers can cut off or allow airflow, I am looking for something that is shaped like a T or a Y, but has a lever or whatever to allow me to switch which "arm" of the top of the T or Y that the air is coming out of (Assuming it is coming in from the bottom). I could use the dampers on that site, but I need 3, and might need another 3 for my Veg room, and those are over 30 bucks each, so each set would be about 100 bucks...(so either 300 or 600 bucks plus shipping, ouch)....it seems I should be able to do a lot better than that price wise. Or maybe this little tweak just isnt cost effective at my small scale, I don't know.

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They were recommended to me and they were cheaper than ebay so I ordered a fan from there and I just remembered seeing those t and y connecters when I was browsing. I guess I can understand the need to eliminate humid air coming in but I just don't have that issue. Good luck.

Pipe Dream said:

They were recommended to me and they were cheaper than ebay so I ordered a fan from there and I just remembered seeing those t and y connecters when I was browsing. I guess I can understand the need to eliminate humid air coming in but I just don't have that issue. Good luck.

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T branches (square branches) are for water only not air. if you want to join two air ducts then you use two Ys one after the other on the duct line.
the only ducting controller you can get are these but they only shut off or control the flow and start at 6" upwards
you would have to put a Y (split branch) section on, and then two of these after the Y section, one on each duct, you could then open and close each duct independently, shutting one off and opening the other.
but would work out quite expensive.
this is the only option i can think of, but if you are desperate it would work no problem.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/250mm-volume-...582?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item27ba801486

i use the same system, but i put my 10" acoustic ducting on the window flange with an elastic band, when the outside temps are too hot or cold i remove the band and duct and let it draw air from the room.
i can put my hand through the flange hole in my window box and close the window or leave it open and draw air from the rest of the house with a window open at the other end of the house, this cools/heats the air before it is drawn through my house to the duct.
i was looking for i diverter but i could not find one.
in the first picture you can see where i have slipped the duct from the window flange, the duct now draws air from the rest of the house, my sealed growroom is on the left, you can see the outside light shining through the flange, the second picture shows a cable that leads to a 20w monofilament lamp inside the window box on the left that i turn on at night, it looks like a bedside lamp from outside.
i have two thin nylon white flyscreen nets stretched tight over the window and sealed at the sides with drawing pins, and then i trimmed the edges, i then put a patterned net over these two, so it just looks like an ordinary bedroom window from outside, although you cannot see through, no insects can get through the screens either. i only want ladybugs in my grow room i try to keep pests out.

a cheaper 6" version http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Spiral-Ductin...arden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&hash=item27ba378bfb

Hey Weegogs, thanks for the input. I like your setup, btw. The 10" intake on the outer room wall is really nice. I am going to use the dampers to stop the outside air coming in when I take the duct off the window, too. That seems like the best way to go for now. (Unless someone links me to the exact thing I need that isn't too expensive, of course)

(my outer room wall is my inner grow room), you can buy a spring loaded damper very cheap, it goes in the duct line or after the window flange and when the fan stops pushing/pulling air the spring closes the damper auto as there is no air forcing it open against the spring. a sort of automatic damper.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/150mm-dia-LIN...arden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&hash=item588c85974a

as far as i am aware they do not do the split line with a flow director any more. you will have to go with the single duct in to a Y, then split it in two, then put two of the controllable dampers on the split ducts, 1 damper on each duct, you can then open or close any duct you want by hand, you can open the left one, or you can open the right one, you can leave both open, or close both, but you cannot get an airflow director any more. you will have to go with that set up.
if you find one pm me. i would buy one too.

a quick sketch, sorry about the artwork. everything i know about art you could write on the back of a postage stamp.