When to switch from veg nutes to bloom ???HELP

PSUAGRO. said:

Why does it have to be 3-parts though?............please explain to a noob

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Because certain elements lock eachother out
Look up percipitation of nutrients.

But when they are arw diluted with water they are fine.

But if you where to mix the 3 parts toghether without water
Certain elements will combine with other elements to form things that aren't usable by your plants.


Look up nutrients on max yeild they have some easy to follow articles

Cold$moke said:

Because certain elements lock eachother out
Look up percipitation of nutrients.

But when they are arw diluted with water they are fine.

But if you where to mix the 3 parts toghether without water
Certain elements will combine with other elements to form things that aren't usable by your plants.


Look up nutrients on max yeild they have some easy to follow articles

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I think you're missing the point @PSUAGRO is making. If I'm not mistaken, he's of the opinion that the cannabis nutrient game is largely bullshit. But he can correct me if my interpretation of his posts is wrong.

I have been using Sensi A & B for about 2 years. When I flip my lights my nutrients also get flipped. Knowing your PPM is a great starting point. My first feeding in flowering stage is half the ml listed on their chart and a full serving of voodoo. I alternate between straight water and nutrients. I think the sweet spot for A & B blend (in soil) is between 600-800 ppm. Gorilla Glue was able to handle it up to 1100 ppm.

Humple said:

I think you're missing the point @PSUAGRO is making. If I'm not mistaken, he's of the opinion that the cannabis nutrient game is largely bullshit. But he can correct me if my interpretation of his posts is wrong.

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I fully agree thats why i dont shop at the hydro store at all if possible.

Now my nutes are very good quality at a very good price

Hydro gardens chem gro 4-20 25 bucks for 5 pounds.

I know you can go even cheaper if you mix your own salts but im too busy for that atm

Im going on week three on the 12th and i just bumped em to a about 1000 ppm (first run with the new nutes)

Well see how they like it when lights come on

This is not an example of my best work just kinda threw it together to get a cycle going

I run Maxi series (dry) at 2.5g/2.5g per gallon grow/bloom as soon as the plants are old enough. It comes out to around 800 PPM and elemental NPK 100/50/150. I could use less bloom but I like it to be available for root growth and for early bud development. About week 3 I switch to 2/4 which bumps PPM a bit over 900 and NPK is 100/80/180. About week 6 I switch to 0/6, also a bit over 900 and NPK is 80/100/180. I could modify the formula to use less P and K early on, but it's does a good job and is still a work in progress. I've never gone over 1000 PPM, not sure if there would be any benefit to pushing the P/K any higher than it already is, but I'll get around to it as a side experiment one day. I've got a friend that pushes up to 1600 PPM in bloom, does fine but no better than me at almost half that strength. I've pulled almost 1.8 GPW in hydro with around 900 PPM. I hear soilless can benefit from slightly higher levels but I'm not as knowledgeable in that area.

Point is, it could be useful to get down with the NPK at the ppm level and be less concerned with the TDS. Get the elemental NPK where you want it and let the TDS be whatever it is, which will vary from one brand of fert to the next. Veg recommendations for N are generally in the 100-150 range. I've never felt the need to use more than 100. A common tomato fertilizer with N adjusted to 100 will provide about 100/50/200.

More info. A basic 10-10-10 fertilizer with N adjusted to 100 will provide 100/44/83 elemental ppm of N/P/K

264.17 is the PPM of a gram or ml in a gallon, so N (first number of guaranteed analysis) / 100 * 264.17 * grams/ml = ppm of N. 1 gram of 10-10-10 in a gallon: 10/100*264.17*1 = 26.42 ppm N. 4 grams of 10-10-10 in a gallon = 105.7 ppm N. There are other ways to do it but that's what works for me. It's the same for P and K except for P the result is multiplied by .44 and for K the result is multiplied by .83. So with 10-10-10 and N adjusted to 100 ppm instead of 100/100/100 you end up with 100/44/83.

A basic fertilizer like that can produce a good crop, no doubt about it. I've seen it happen, dude pulling dank and good yield using Miracle Gro 10-10-10 from start to finish.

There is evidence higher P and/or K can be helpful during bloom, not just with our crop but all flowering and fruiting plants. That's why you see tomato fertilizer with something like 12-15-30, 18-18-21, 4-7-10 or 10-5-15... all tomato specific fertilizers. If we normalize the N values to 10 we come up with 10-12.5-25, 10-10-16.66, 10-17.5-25, 10-5-15. If we use those value to create a solution with 100 PPM N we get these values:

100/55/250
100/44/207
100/77/250
100/22/124

Full swing bloom I'm running 100/80/180 so I'm probably hitting the upper levels of useful P at 80 ppm in bloom and could probably bump up the K a little from 180. Like I said, it's a work in progress, but all this goes to show there's probably not a critical point at which PK should be boosted. Do it early or wait til you see buds forming, or don't do it at all provided you're running adequate PK to begin with, it will be okay either way. One guy I was reading about is using 100/50/150 from start to finish, swears by it... or maybe it's just easy but he's happy with the results.

PSUAGRO. said:

Why does it have to be 3-parts though?............please explain to a noob

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You can't mix them all together in their more concentrated form or you get reactions between the various mineral salts and they precipitate out of solution and are ruined. They can get everything to work in a 2-part mix and I've tried that but then you are limited in the combinations of nutes you can mix as you pretty much have to give the plants equal parts of each to get all the parts the plants need.

With a 3-part you can tweak the balance more but have to be careful that you aren't cutting something out. Like when I go without the Grow part to reduce N I need to add some epsom salts to replace the Mg and S that are in the Grow to keep those levels up.

The first time I ever used hydro nutes back in '82 they came in bags of various dry mineral salts that I had to mix up into stock solutions then add the right amount of each to make a decent blend for the plants. That gives you the most control over what your plants eat but is a lot more fussing around. I'm a lot older and achier so less hassle is the way I prefer to grow now. Premixed nutes that take care of their own pH is what works best for me short of having someone hand me my harvested and cured buds.

Should stop getting your info from hightimes,maxyield and the like..... they don't bite the hands that feed them, rightly so, it's a good business strategy


-Flowering is controlled by hormones, NOT nutrients......... but whatever you want to spend your money & time(feeding charts, bottle collections, etc) on, is not my place.

- all the residential growers using scotts mg, peters,jacks,osmocote,megacrop,v&b, trf,crf & countless others==probably having shit flower results with all those elements "fighting" each other. lol

I'm not even going to talk about p-k boosting , soil testing, environmental dormancy in hard worked ag fields vs US gardens/containers...... snooze fest

Yes but when the hormones change the plants nutritional needs change as well if im not mistaken

How Do You Make A Hormone ?????? Don't Pay Her Yuck Yuck Yuck