Well the 301H is pretty great if you can get decent deal on them.
I’d like to hear more about this reliability issue with 561’s, care to indulge?
I have done this with xpg3 diodes, works very well. I shoulda kept it going, just to many watts in 1 spot shoulda bought longer tubing.For a few bucks more, why not go with full square tubing instead of flatbar or c channel? Then use some cheap alumaweld brazing rods and a torch to cap the ends off so they're water tight. Then tap and drill holes on each of the ends of each bar to screw in some barbed fittings, and connect them all in a loop. It's 2024, and aluminum water cooling components are cheap af!
Of course you should cool off your components the best you can, IMO. I would rather WC the strips and drive the piss out of them at 100%.. if not overdrive them even more than that, and make 2 powerful lights that share one WC'ing reservoir\pump & loop, instead of one light with twice the strips.. and only be running them at 50%.. and still probably end up needing overpriced heatsinks anyway so they don't degrade too quickly. Go hard, not soft!
Have you a link for these strips? That's cheap.
Do you have any idea what you are showing? No currents or temps referenced. No idea of equal or not max temps....come on dude...put just a tiny bit of effort into this.
By upgrading Samsung’s highly successful 2835 packaging structure, the LM281B+ Pro delivers an exceptionally high degree of reliability with a surprisingly long lifetime. The new structure increases the temperature cycle to 500 cycles between -45℃ and 125℃* — more than double that of the standard 2835 LEDs, making it especially resistant to variations in humidity, temperature, and sulfurization. These advantages significantly lower any possibility of a blackout, therein allowing luminaires to last much longer than the typical timeframe for a standard 2835 LED.
It's the efficiency listed for the strips by Samsung, should I have ran it by NASA first?
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Ahhh yeah!
The thrive isnt horti, its "human centric" : super high cri and expanded blue spectrum but low efficiency, both photon and and lumens. If it had about 25-30% more output is love it for horti but too much of a sacrifice for me. If efficiency wasnt an issue id love to try the 2700k thrives for flower.
I would buy the diodes on arrow they got Jb2835 g class 3500k 80 CRI 4000 for $39.60 right now which is very cheap, then have adura build those exact strips @Frankindank had on this thread earlier onAhhh yeah!
Just gotta be mindful when mixing both copper and aluminum parts in a cooling loop. Not too big of a deal as long as you use extra anti corrosion inhibitors in the coolant..
What latest strips you think would work best with 4' lengths of 1/2 or 3/4" square tubing? Not sure where to even look on Arrow..
You wanna use the same exact strips, even if you had 2 different strips but the voltage was the same according to the specs you would still want to use the same exact strips.
Is this because the driver somehow senses and sets the voltage needed and it can't do that with two differentials on the circuit? I was hoping with one being 48V and the other 46V it would work. I'd be interested in the electrical reasons behind it.
It more than likely would work, but model x strips might be given more power than model y strips. You could wire them up and measure the amp draw to each strip I guess and determine if there's an issue, it's just not an ideal way of building a light.
Should work fine.
