What deficiancy do you think this is?? Pic included.

tenthirty

Well-Known Member
DSC01197.jpg

30 days flower in 4" rockwool blocks.
Dyna-Grow at 1.2 EC 5.9 PH.
Water temp 66 F. 2 mil calmag.
1 Flood per day for 5 minutes.

Leaves turning yellow from the start of flower. Veins are still green. The smaller plants seem to be greener though. Is this over feeding, or mag def. Or better yet, how can I fix this?

Thanks in advanceDSC01202.jpg
 

*BUDS

Well-Known Member
Looks like trace element lockout probably Mg, make sure the ph is solid at 5.8.
 

tenthirty

Well-Known Member
DSC01218.jpgDSC01220.jpgDSC01217.jpgDSC01219.jpg

Here are today's update pics at 40 days in flower. PH is 5.9 EC is 1.2 Temp lights off is 66 and lights on 74.

I just sprayed a little less than 1 tsp of epson salt in 1 quart of water. Hope this helps.
 

chasta

Active Member
You sure they are not just hungry ? People may be see the yellow tips and assuming you are feeding enough but the overall plant looks light green to me like maybe a little N could be needed ? Mine are about 5-6 weeks in right now too and i just had a yellow issue of my own . Turns out they just started use more food then i was used to feeding them . I started feed feed water instead of feed water water . But still keeping conservative on the ppm .
 

burrr

Well-Known Member
those temps may be a little on the cool side, the red stems are a sign of cold stress.

also, a 4" block may dry up pretty quick. Have you tried flooding more often?
 

pandan

Active Member
This guide can help: http://www.greenmanspage.com/guides/tables.html also you could google a picture guide to finding what it is.

I think you should
1) check you ph tool like others told you to do. get a calibrating solution for it or switch to digital if you use the drop things
2) flush your medium, tanks and pipes or what ever it is you use in case salt has built up and causing lockout
3) lower you ph to 5.8 like the other guy said or go lower to 5.5 like i use (in coco coir though)
4) If things don't improve raise your EC. In the grow i just pulled my plants were fairly large but i was running like EC 2.0 or so of nutrients with no sign of burn or stress.
 

burrr

Well-Known Member
Don't go raising the the EC just yet. Dynagro works well at low feed levels. What are you feeding them, exactly. try top watering a few times a day, instead of your one flood.

Also, dynagro works over a pretty broad range of PH. I doubt that is the issue here.
 

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
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Here are today's update pics at 40 days in flower. PH is 5.9 EC is 1.2 Temp lights off is 66 and lights on 74.

I just sprayed a little less than 1 tsp of epson salt in 1 quart of water. Hope this helps.
Careful with that ... such a strong solution is probably north of 2000 ppm and can burn the bejeebus out of the leaves ... foliar with ionics is a tightrope walk imo. cn
 

tenthirty

Well-Known Member
Burr, I was taking the red stems as some kind of deficiency. How often should I flood the cubes?
The cubes are light when the lights go on compared to after they have been fed. The tops of the cubes still feel slightly moist.

Chasta, I'm following https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/429438-dyna-gro-vs-advanced-nutrients.html to give you an idea of why I'm feeding at the level that I am. The strain is hindu kush.

Panda, I have 3 meters, a hanna, blue labs and Milwaukee. All 3 read pretty close.

Thanh you all for your recommendations!! This is a perpetual and I will be making adjustment as each grow progresses. I might even start a journal. woohoo
 

tenthirty

Well-Known Member
Well, I dropped the EC of the solution to about 1.1 and PH'd to 5.8 and washed all of the leaves off again. I hope that I didn't do much damage.
 

burrr

Well-Known Member
I would suggest doing a quick flush, and proceed to feed at .9 EC with 3 floods during your light cycle. Giving them an occasional extra top feed by hand won't hurt either. Homebrewer's advice on this has more merit than mine, but I know he floods his 6" blocks twice a day.
I'm running 6" blocks over top of a dwc bucket and I flood 3 times per day without issue.
I bet you could flood 4 times a day and still not over water.
 

tenthirty

Well-Known Member
burr, I'll drop the EC to .9 in the morning and up the feeding schedule to start tomorrow and we'll see what happens. I can see the same scenario playing out in the tray that is 30 days behind the tray that we are looking at. At this point the tray at 17 days has some girls that the leaves that aren't as green as I would like to see them.

Thanks.
 

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
Well, I dropped the EC of the solution to about 1.1 and PH'd to 5.8 and washed all of the leaves off again. I hope that I didn't do much damage.
Imo ... since you washed it off, it should be fine. However ionics in general are, afaik, "a skilled maneuver" in re foliar feeding. Keep us posted ... ! cn
ps "Mr. Ganja" ~giggle~ a legend in my own mind ...
 

tenthirty

Well-Known Member
cannabieneer, I've been known to perform multiple skilled maneuvers in multiple succession before. LOL.
I've yet to kill off a crop though, just not getting stellar results.

I find that reading the plant is a very hard skill to aquire, let alone master!
 

tenthirty

Well-Known Member
Hi,

I think that I found a clue.

In the bottom of the reservoir there is a white precipitate or powder. If I mix the water up it becomes cloudy.

I found this through google.

Improper pH ranges can also result in precipitates (calcium sulfate), a white cloudy or powdery looking substance that can float or even settle at the bottom of your reservoir. When the pH of the nutrient solution rises above 7.0, a chemical reaction can occur causing the calcium to bond with sulfate and other trace elements like iron, copper, zinc and manganese causing them to become unavailable to the roots. It can even cause problems with emitters and/or misters clogging, and buildup in the growing medium, and in extreme cases can cause plumbing blockages or restrictions (like clogged arteries). The exact pH that precipitation of the nutrients begins, depends on the exact concentrations of calcium and sulfate in the nutrient solution. But it typically can begin at 6.5, unless the particular nutrient solution is low in concentrations of calcium and/or sulfate. Generally speaking, higher nutrient concentrations are more likely to result in precipitates, than lower concentrations.


So one thing I suspect is maybe I'm mixing my nutes improperly.

So here is what I do to mix the rez.

27 gal container. fill to 20 gal with RO/UV water.

1) Add 5 gal of water.
2) Add 100mil h2o2 (per al.b.fuct
3) Add 5 mil per gal protekt
4) Add 2mil gal magi-cal
5) Add 5 mil per gal dyna-bloom
6) Add 2 mil per gal dyna-grow
7) Add more pro-tekt to adjust ph to 5.8/9

That it.

I'm totally guessing, but I think that when the pro-tekt is added, the ph spikes up to above 7 and when the nutes hit the water, chemical magic starts to happen.

Am I doing something wrong?
Any suggestions on how to improve on creating the nutrient solution?

Thanks........
 

tenthirty

Well-Known Member
Ok, I called Dyan-Grow and the guy there was very helpful. He confirmed that the white powder was precipitation out of solution. (white slippery powder) He also said to add the pro-tekt first, before anything else and use 5 mils gal of Mag-pro.
So I mixed new rez's to .95 EC, mostly mag-pro.
The mix now, in order is.
2.5 mil pro-tekt
5 mil mag-pro
1 mil dyna-grow
3 mil dyna-bloom.

Anyone see anything wrong with this?
 
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