What are your favorite ACTs?!

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
I found this on amazon. but it's 12 12 2. which wouldn't probably be too bad for my case of N def. but it does say pelletized.. same thing?
Yes that's the stuff...just keep in mind Organics works differently than nutrients. You have to kinda give them what they need before they need it because it takes a long time to break down & be beneficial to your plants. That's why tea is so effective; because it jump starts the breakdown process. Using nutes you can wait till you see a deficiency and then treat it but in organic soil you have to add whatever it is before deficiencies occur. A regiment of tea every few weeks is needed if your soil is either lightly amended or not at all. When you recycle your mix you can add guano or use it as a top dressing but I find it better used in teas because it really bumps up the activity; a foamy bacterial Roman orgy if you will. Giving teas is like riding a wave; you are trying to raise microbial activity but a container full of soil will only stay supernaturally active for so long & then further stimulation is required. If you start with a supernaturally active mix to begin with then teas become less necessary,
 

bankcee

Well-Known Member
Yes that's the stuff...just keep in mind Organics works differently than nutrients. You have to kinda give them what they need before they need it because it takes a long time to break down & be beneficial to your plants. That's why tea is so effective; because it jump starts the breakdown process. Using nutes you can wait till you see a deficiency and then treat it but in organic soil you have to add whatever it is before deficiencies occur. A regiment of tea every few weeks is needed if your soil is either lightly amended or not at all. When you recycle your mix you can add guano or use it as a top dressing but I find it better used in teas because it really bumps up the activity; a foamy bacterial Roman orgy if you will. Giving teas is like riding a wave; you are trying to raise microbial activity but a container full of soil will only stay supernaturally active for so long & then further stimulation is required. If you start with a supernaturally active mix to begin with then teas become less necessary,
yeah I understand that, but do you think this can get me through til harvest. I'm a little over 3 weeks into bloom and leaves are yellowing and dying off left and right. and I know it's a N def but I'm just trying to supplement n til I no longer need it. I had a super soil and it seems as though it is depleted of ammendments even after my first two teas which was ewc and some kelp and molasses that shluby advised me to use and next was a kelp and alfalfa and ewc tea and it seemed like it helped a tad but not much cause its still losing leaves like crazy. lol nugs are finally bulking up though.
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
yeah I understand that, but do you think this can get me through til harvest. I'm a little over 3 weeks into bloom and leaves are yellowing and dying off left and right. and I know it's a N def but I'm just trying to supplement n til I no longer need it. I had a super soil and it seems as though it is depleted of ammendments even after my first two teas which was ewc and some kelp and molasses that shluby advised me to use and next was a kelp and alfalfa and ewc tea and it seemed like it helped a tad but not much cause its still losing leaves like crazy. lol nugs are finally bulking up though.
Hmmm..... It is normal for the bottom/middle leaves under the main canopy to yellow up & die off if they are starved of light. If they are in super soil I doubt it is depleted but you may need to stimulate activity. I noticed your plants are quite large for 7g pots & likely the source of most of your issues. The sun will drive your plants to suck up alotta food to be converted to sugars through photosynthesis so you've got a few options I think:
1. You can give some fast N like in a tea. I'd use guano and worm casting tea maybe bubbled with some alfalfa and kelp meal.
2. Add a top dressing:
Hi N Hi P Guano, EWC, & fish bone meal is what I've used in bloom- dress & then mulch on top; likely still early enough to be effective without pissing off the fungi too much
3. Transplant to some fresh soil in a bigger container - may not be necessary but a last resort as you are in week 3 & transplanting in mid-bloom is usually a bad idea

Another suggestion I would make is to mulch the top of your pots to help the root ball regulate moisture. I use pine bark nuggets and straw which really helps the root ball stay supple and moist while promoting fungal & microbial life. I've never had yellowing to the extent your plans exhibit but I still believe you could get them through til harvest with just a nutrient tea regiment.
 

bankcee

Well-Known Member
Hmmm..... It is normal for the bottom/middle leaves under the main canopy to yellow up & die off if they are starved of light. If they are in super soil I doubt it is depleted but you may need to stimulate activity. I noticed your plants are quite large for 7g pots & likely the source of most of your issues. The sun will drive your plants to suck up alotta food to be converted to sugars through photosynthesis so you've got a few options I think:
1. You can give some fast N like in a tea. I'd use guano and worm casting tea maybe bubbled with some alfalfa and kelp meal.
2. Add a top dressing:
Hi N Hi P Guano, EWC, & fish bone meal is what I've used in bloom- dress & then mulch on top; likely still early enough to be effective without pissing off the fungi too much
3. Transplant to some fresh soil in a bigger container - may not be necessary but a last resort as you are in week 3 & transplanting in mid-bloom is usually a bad idea

Another suggestion I would make is to mulch the top of your pots to help the root ball regulate moisture. I use pine bark nuggets and straw which really helps the root ball stay supple and moist while promoting fungal & microbial life. I've never had yellowing to the extent your plans exhibit but I still believe you could get them through til harvest with just a nutrient tea regiment.
so two things. I don't have much room to top dress or even mulch (I have some shredded redwood bark) if that would work for next time I run into this issue or wanna mulch?
also I don't have enough soil if I even wanted to risk transplanting this late in flower.. :(

but as for my last and only option the tea regiment. at 25 days on an 8 week strain, I'm seeing the trichs come in already and wanna know a good tea regiment that would provide all the needed n boost I need til harvest as well as the P and K I need to get through bloom. I know this is asking a lot brotha but I need desperate help. hahaha
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
so two things. I don't have much room to top dress or even mulch (I have some shredded redwood bark) if that would work for next time I run into this issue or wanna mulch?
also I don't have enough soil if I even wanted to risk transplanting this late in flower.. :(

but as for my last and only option the tea regiment. at 25 days on an 8 week strain, I'm seeing the trichs come in already and wanna know a good tea regiment that would provide all the needed n boost I need til harvest as well as the P and K I need to get through bloom. I know this is asking a lot brotha but I need desperate help. hahaha
ok bud, here is what to expect to happen, because i just went through this with a couple plants about 2 months ago. They never stopping having N def. problems. i even bought the vegamatrix line (to run the next few runs on) and even though it was too late, they still never greened back up, and i don't think they will. If you're producing buds and trichs at day 25, you're doing fine. Here's what mine looked like, around the same time as yours...
IMG_1957.JPG
they never quit dropping leaves... and most all those leaves were gone by the time i harvested. HOWEVER, i know more now, than i did then; so i'm hoping to see yours at least have some leaves on it that aren't yellow before the due date lol.

i wouldnt be boosting the N necessarily, but just try to provide them with a little more than what they need. so just for reference with teas/nutrients you should be going for an even NPK right now (which is a little more N than needed in this stage of flower), and then get your teas to like 1/2/2 or 5/10/10 or whatever. it's all about the ratio. 1/2/2 is the same as 5/10/10 in terms of ratio, just that the higher the numbers mean the higher % of that element in the product as a whole, so it contains more food. you follow?

let me bring another genius (apple lol) to see if he can help you out! @Grandpa GreenJeans
 

Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
In the transition to flower (weeks 1-2) the plant will have a need for a more even NPK but use most of that N to grow more internode and flower sites. This is the time to hit her with a decent amount of N because she will burn it up making the platform for a larger cola. Also at this time the pH is lower than it will be later in flower. It's mostly around 6.2 - 6.5 and in soil that's the best range for N uptake. As she progresses into the full on bloom stage she has very little need for N and mainly takes up PK ca/mg/sulfur. These are best taken up at a slightly higher pH like 6.7- 7.0 so it's no suprise that she continues to yellow from a lack of N because the exudates from the roots assist in the soils pH and influence a favorable zone for the nutrients she needs to flower and complete her life cycle. If you top dress with N and she not taking it then you will have pH fluctuations and excess N. Too much N can throw off Mg which in return will eventually affect the Ca.
The best advise I can give is to give her a nitrate that's a carrier for another element she is currently taking. Calcium nitrate, magnesium nitrate. I know your going organic and salts are not conducive to the organic approach but it's the only form that doesn't have to be broken down. If you loose all your leaves before you harvest you won't be satisfied. Every single leaf on that plant is a solar panel and converts light into food. Less panels, less food, little bud's
 
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