What are the best nutrients out there?whats better advanced nutrients or hydro fuel?

all without BURN,,, it is more than possible to feed at this level of ferts without killing your plants but only if you start high at the beginning when cloning...
i believe clones should be kept at the same strength feed as the plants you took them from,, some dont and they treat them like seedlings and only use plain water or a very low ppm solution... i dont ,, i start my clones in a solution of 1250-1500ppm until rooted ,,, once rooted i bump it up a lil bit untill they get put in the big flowering room... once there i bump it up again in the region of 1800-2000ppm ,,, every week until i hit 5th week (PEAK FEED) i increase ferts ,,ive always grown this way and im now in my 10th year so its not just something im experimenting with , its actually something that works perfectly fine..

peace out guys n gals..

29menace said:

well its something like that m8, ive not kept a record and as its adv nutes lol im adding more than just A+B to the resivoir
the bubbler system is approx 30litres when full , im almost 100ml each part plus im adding 50-75ml mother earth , 40ml sensizym, 3g pirahnah, 3g tarantula, 40-50ml overdrive

the pic with roots is my large jack herer almost at 6th week of flowering,, as you can see the ppm's over 3000..

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What I think you should be concerned with is that in terms of cost, you're using a stupid amount of plant food.

For example, if I were using your feeding regimen in an 18 gallon hydro reservoir, it would take just over one gallon of base nutrients alone to flower out a 9 week strain. No offense but that's absolutely pathetic.

homebrewer said:

What I think you should be concerned with is that in terms of cost, you're using a stupid amount of plant food.

For example, if I were using your feeding regimen in an 18 gallon hydro reservoir, it would take just over two gallons of base nutrients alone to flower out a 9 week strain. No offense but that's absolutely pathetic.

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How can you say "no offense" when you use words like "stupid" and "pathetic" .
When are you going to get it through your head that a PPM meter reads more than just salts? It's a measure of conduction, nothing more. People have their way of growing. Look at his journal, awesome plants. Why are you so dick bent on how people choose to spend their money?

BROBIE said:

How can you say "no offense" when you use words like "stupid" and "pathetic" .
When are you going to get it through your head that a PPM meter reads more than just salts? It's a measure of conduction, nothing more. People have their way of growing. Look at his journal, awesome plants. Why are you so dick bent on how people choose to spend their money?

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Why does he offend you so much, Big Mike?

He's not offending me. He's offending @29menace

PPM readings when adding all the other crap additives mean nothing when compared to using pure salts. apples and oranges

BROBIE said:

How can you say "no offense" when you use words like "stupid" and "pathetic" .
When are you going to get it through your head that a PPM meter reads more than just salts? It's a measure of conduction, nothing more. People have their way of growing. Look at his journal, awesome plants. Why are you so dick bent on how people choose to spend their money?

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EC/ppm numbers aside, he's using 26/mls per gallon of base nutrients alone. That makes any grow of any size outrageously expensive compared to just about ANY other plant food on the market.

It's not personal, these are just the facts.

My concern about using that high of a feed rate, 3000 ppm, is bud tasting like fertilizer. Sure, I used to think "the more food, the more buds", but then realized through educating myself that plants will only use so much of the fertilizer and the rest is just wasted. Say you put in 3000 ppm, well the plant may only use a fraction of that. Just because the plants aren't burning doesn't mean it's helping them to add so much mix.

In my experience, every time I chased the dragon with 2000+ ppms, my buds lacked the flavor, those same clone once I reduced ppms to lower ranges 500-900 ppm tasted fantastic.

If 29menace's flavor is on point then cheers to him, it might cost him a little extra but I'm sure he's still coming out ahead with plants like that.

homebrewer said:

EC/ppm numbers aside, he's using 26/mls per gallon of base nutrients alone. That makes any grow of any size outrageously expensive compared to just about ANY other plant food on the market.

It's not personal, these are just the facts.

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Yea I bet he's not feeding his kids so he can overfeed his plants. Real bank buster.
I'm just sayin 2500 PPM is not crazy when you have all those additives in it.

hi guys ,,, i should say i dont change my tanks every week ,, sometimes because the tanks are that big i leave it 2-3 before changing but even then sometimes i just top up with water and add a lil bit at a time to correct my ppm's. for some ppl using large amounts of nutes isnt cost effective i agree but i dont have a limited budget so i can get away with it.. when its done buy more.

i also make sure i flush my bitches for atleast 14 days and sometimes more to get rid of all the nasties ,, theres no point in putting all the effort in for tangy throat nippin weed ,,, wana do something, do it right imho.

im not saying that you all shud bump up your nutes by any means , infact be carefull with your nutes till you have a better understanding of what does what ,, sometimes what works for others will not work for you..


hence the reason i posted the pictures of my old grow/bloom charts for ppl to use coz i know through years of experimenting with Adv Nutes and there low enough amounts for anyone to grow safely..
correct me if im wrong "its been almost a decade" but i think the ec/cf at peak was only 1.6-2.0 somewhere at peak feed in my 20-25litre nft tanks

i dnt really know what it is but all the way thru they have just wanted more n more nutes,,, i would try n hold the ppm's at 2000 but within a few days they all went that limey yellow look asif they were needin more so when i bumped it up 500 to 2500 they went back to being dark green... same again the following fortnight 2500 to 3000

they have settled now @ just over 3000ppm and i wont be raising it any more ,, only thing i will be upping the amount of is Overdive to pile on the pounds lol...

AN in my experience is quite strong. Must be a strong strain . I'm in week two of bloom and still only using 1/2 strength. Looking sweet. I don't get why everyone says AN is so expensive. Yes it is , but for the convenience and ease of use it really doesn't bother me to spend a few extra bucks.

churchhaze said:

N P K Ca Mg S Fe B Mn Mo Zn

works every time.

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What he said..,,,,, and the correct amount at the CORRFT time with the correct pH

AUSCraig said:

AN in my experience is quite strong. Must be a strong strain . I'm in week two of bloom and still only using 1/2 strength. Looking sweet. I don't get why everyone says AN is so expensive. Yes it is , but for the convenience and ease of use it really doesn't bother me to spend a few extra bucks.

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Is AN really that good? I'm trying canna but like making own soil,lll, Is it worth a shot, and go omri rated ?

Depends what your'e into. I'm not into playing with PH pens, adding bits and pieces etc etc. Just pour this stuff in, and get on with life. Easier, but I guess more expensive. Like I said tho, for me, using just over 1/2 strength doesn't cost much tbh. round $60 for a full 4x4 run start to fin. 1lb

Oh the pH balanced stuff is for real? Don't you ever want to change the pH so the plant an receive more of a certain nutrient? Some are better acidic,, some better basic...... I read about that line and was skeptical. How do they know the pH of the plant? Each one is different at sometime and it amazes to think they have a balanced pH line that is organic too they say??

I just find it hard to believe, and it takes away what you said, the pens and pH checking, although that is major and if you never check it how can you learn. Is there ever a def when yu use that line. And is it "organic? Or at least OMNI rated ? What the PH set at for that AN line? I'm more of a mediuM and root and pH checker, like to be sure I can raise it or lower it according to each single plants needs.lll

There is nothing to learn from a PH pen, It's not rocket science. Mine with Hydroton is stable at 5.6ph wilma setup. Very healthy. No need for pens, no need for ph up or down etc. It's easy.
There is a medium range for ph, I don't know why you would want to raise and lower to often, keep it steady and let it creep a little before water changes.

I do however keep a digital ph reader in the liquied at all times. I just press the button every couple days, I see it's stable, I leave it. It's not like I completely forgot it. But I have never needed to change anything. Yes the PH perfect line works how It says.

Basically all nutrients work just fine if you use them properly.