Watering after transplant

Fritzyfruits

Active Member
If I'm transplanting clones into 7 gallon containers of royal gold pure coco.

I'll generally just water them, in the 1 gallons, then transplant and water the coco to runoff the next day.

Question is, am I shocking the plants at all by not watering the coco again immediatly after transplant and letting them sit for 24hrs(even though I have watered them in thier 1gallons just prior to transplant)

Thanks
 

a senile fungus

Well-Known Member
I personally water till runoff after each transplant. In my opinion, the root ball and the new medium seem to have better contact after a good watering, and after that first wet/dry cycle those roots explode outwards.

So, are you shocking yours? I dunno. I can tell you that mine love life after a transplant. :-)
 

Fritzyfruits

Active Member
I use RO water and I forgot to run the filter so I only have about 14gallons of ro water, Ive never used my well water but its PPM is 100.

This wont be enough water to get run off

I guess next thought is, it better to water with what I have after transplant , knowing it will not be enough to get run off or just wait until tomorrow when I can get runoff
 

goldberg71b

Well-Known Member
Watering them before transplant doesn't reduce "shock". As long as it comes out of the pot easily. If it's bone dry they tend to stick to the pots. Ripping dry roots off the sides of the pots isn't recommended. You should water after transplant and plan accordingly and you can combine both watering and transplanting. When it's watered it also allows the soil to settle nice and snug around the existing roots!
 

westcoast420

Well-Known Member
Way easier to transplant when the medium is dry, never ever had any issues with roots sticking to the pots.. Id give them a decent water after tping but wouldnt do a full pot soak, the more wet they are the longer they take to recover from the transplant.
 

Gquebed

Well-Known Member
I find a full soaking of the up-potted medium is too much for the little rootball. Specially from 1 gal to 7. With no need to search for moisture the roots dont have grow that fast so they dont. So the danger is by the time the roots hit bottom that moisture has been sitting for days if not a week. No oxygen, settled salts. Russian roulette for shit that can go wrong. I stuffed myseld a couple times.

So now after potting from 1 gal to 5 gal I just put a gallon of 600ppm or so on. The trick is water outward from the edge of where your 1 gal rootball is. Draw the roots out of it. In a couple three days do another gal of higher nutess right around the edge of the bucket. Theres usually no run off... so the danger is salt build up. So the third watering i use 1.5 gal of just 250ish ppm water and that will get about a .5 gal bit of run off. 30%.

In a week i get a solid start on the roots, sidestep the salt problem and dont play russian roulette with stale water.
 

hillbill

Well-Known Member
I take it easy on first water afterwards and I transplant fairly wet which just seems to make things easier. It seems helpful to gently untangle and molest roots if they are bound.. Since the seedlings mix is quite high in moisture, I also water mainly around the edges. There are no roots even present down deep to help use water. You can always water more later. Overwatering may be the most common grower induced disaster.
 

Flowki

Well-Known Member
I think it's better to firmly physically compact the soil/coco every few inches while putting it into pot so that it won't buckle under a future heavy watering. That is if you don't water heavily on transplant. It just means (speculation) the new ground a few roots have grew into won't collapse on them or the bio path ways, I can't see any positives in that.

Or, you water heavily on transplant and let that compact/stabilize things, topping up soil/coco as needed.

Both are likely not great for initial root development/oxygen levels but I suppose it's what ever is easier to the set up.

Best transplant example I ever seen was of some guys out doors growing in huge bags. They would water around the stem on transplant and then very slowly work that watering out every time to keep up with the searching roots (or rather just behind). I'd speculate that doing that allows the roots a better chance to anchor in and support the soil/bio to reduce the collapse effect. But, in smaller indoor pots or coco perhaps it's not viable/too tedious.
 

Fritzyfruits

Active Member
I think it's better to firmly physically compact the soil/coco every few inches while putting it into pot so that it won't buckle under a future heavy watering. That is if you don't water heavily on transplant. It just means (speculation) the new ground a few roots have grew into won't collapse on them or the bio path ways, I can't see any positives in that.

Or, you water heavily on transplant and let that compact/stabilize things, topping up soil/coco as needed.

Both are likely not great for initial root development/oxygen levels but I suppose it's what ever is easier to the set up.

Best transplant example I ever seen was of some guys out doors growing in huge bags. They would water around the stem on transplant and then very slowly work that watering out every time to keep up with the searching roots (or rather just behind). I'd speculate that doing that allows the roots a better chance to anchor in and support the soil/bio to reduce the collapse effect. But, in smaller indoor pots or coco perhaps it's not viable/too tedious.
So each watering, they would water farther out away from the root zone?
 

Flowki

Well-Known Member
So each watering, they would water farther out away from the root zone?
Every time they would water the stem area first but circle out a little further and a little further. Basiclaly they didn't water soil that they didn't think contained roots on that water day. With how soil/coco will spread moisture I don't know if this will be as effective in small diameter pots used indoor. You would likely sooner flood the top few inches rather than sink the water to the root ball, or else it would require very slow watering.
 

Newb2indoor

Well-Known Member
I find a full soaking of the up-potted medium is too much for the little rootball. Specially from 1 gal to 7. With no need to search for moisture the roots dont have grow that fast so they dont. So the danger is by the time the roots hit bottom that moisture has been sitting for days if not a week. No oxygen, settled salts. Russian roulette for shit that can go wrong. I stuffed myseld a couple times.

So now after potting from 1 gal to 5 gal I just put a gallon of 600ppm or so on. The trick is water outward from the edge of where your 1 gal rootball is. Draw the roots out of it. In a couple three days do another gal of higher nutess right around the edge of the bucket. Theres usually no run off... so the danger is salt build up. So the third watering i use 1.5 gal of just 250ish ppm water and that will get about a .5 gal bit of run off. 30%.

In a week i get a solid start on the roots, sidestep the salt problem and dont play russian roulette with stale water.
I know this is old, but Glad I found it. This answers all my questions. Just transplanted from starter pots to 1 gallon and was wondering what I should do next.
 
I came searching for an answer to a question also like the previous post, but had many other questions (which I didn’t know I had) also answered. I’ve read plenty of different threads on topics in this forum, but I’m about to transplant and felt compelled to say thank you.


I started my grow about a month ago if you count germing. I germinated unfeminized seeds that I bought (in shot glass w water for 24h, then in a paper towel in a zip lock on a heating pad for 48h), popped 12/13, stuck them in red solo party cups (burned the bottoms around the base in half-inch slits with a lighter for drainage), A nice thick-3/4 in layer of perlite for drainage (for thirsty roots to stretch and search for water once they make their way there) , then filled with ffof on the bottom-half mixed with perlite (for more drainage) and a special Coco, Pete Moss and perlite mix on the top for easy early growth.

I bbq’d my Ocean Forest (after doing tons of research, i couldnt bake so i grilled it in pans) and did a thin layer of DE in middle and top for early bug control. I’ve managed to identify (with the help of a DNA sex testing lab) what my males and females were and at day 25 today - they look like that oversized child in a stroller that you see in public.

Im putting my males in the backyard to try to get more seeds(return on investment?)

Here are the females
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