Vero29 gen7 SE 80 CRI VS 90

Which one would you take

  • 90 CRI

    Votes: 9 45.0%

  • 80 CRI

    Votes: 11 55.0%
  • Total voters
    20
newguy123

newguy123

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, another thread talking about CRI

I am about to get some vero 29 gen 7 SE 3500k and I am debating whether I should get 80 or 90 CRI.

I looked at the datasheet and it would seems that the 80 CRI has 16,3% more L/W. I know that Lumens/watt is not the value that matters in our use but its the best reference I could find.

Here is the datasheet
http://www.bridgelux.com/sites/default/files/resource_media/Bridgelux DS123 Vero SE 29 Gen 7 Array Data Sheet 20161205 Rev B.pdf

The 80 CRI is BXRC-35E10K0-C-7X-SE and the 90 CRI is BXRC-35G10K0-C-7X-SE

(190-159)/190 = 16,3%

My question is, Taking into consideration the recent ''grow off 80CRI VS 90CRI'' Would you go for the 90CRI and have a shorter flowering time or go with the 80 CRI and get more lumens?

Also how do I insert a link and instead of seeing the address, viewers would see the name I would give it.
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
It depends on what you want!

CRI90= faster flowering, maybe due to the emerson effect, but less nodes, shorter branches, bigger leafs, less yield and more stretch.
CRI80= longer flowering, more nodes, better branching, more yield, less stretch, smaller leafs.

Assuming you save one week per grow you can have 5-6 with CRI80 or 6-7 with CRI90 per year. Finals weights per year could be more or less identic..
 
newguy123

newguy123

Well-Known Member
Thank you for your comment.

On a side note, when I did my math, I found that 8x vero29 3500 CRI 80 gen 7 C on 2 hlg 185 700ma in a 2x4 space would give me 1431ppfd which is way too much. Can anyone confirm?

Assuming 198Lumen/watt from the bridgelux simulator
198Lumen/watt * 47.67watt*8cobs = 75 509.28Lumen
75 509.28Lumen/325 = 232.33 PAR
232.33 PAR * 4.82umol/j = 1 119.86 ppf
For ppfd, turn 8ft into 0.743224m2
1119.86 ppf / 0.743224 m2 = 1506 ppfd

If we take out the 5% loss from the driver we get 1431.4 ppfd
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Your math seems correct but there is no driver losses to consider in this math!

The light losses occurs on your walls and by the distance to the canopy. It seems not to much light if you choose the B-version of the drivers to be able to dimm the lights down.
Wall losses are usually between 10 and 20% depending on the distance to the canopy. The more light hits the walls the higher is the intensity loss! So 1200-1350μMol/s.
Start with greater distance(>2ft) and reduce slowly(inch for inch) until you see signs of stress like burned tips or yellow stripes on the leaves. And look at some pictures, with plants that were over-exposed to get an idea of how bleaching looks like.
With dimmer you can also use the lamps if you change later to a larger area. And dimming would make their lamp even more efficient, perhaps up to 65% @half power (350mA).
I also use 8 COB's, but at 1050mA. Therefor I have 40w at deepred separatly(24 Osram Oslon @ 700mA) on a secondary driver, so ~366w total for an area of 9.5sft. No signs of bleaching at 40-45cm distance!

BTW,
The 5-6% losses from the driver are converted directly into heat and increase the overall consumption but does not affect the amount of light that your lamp produces.
 

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Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Buy a lux meter(ebay, 10-15$US) and convert lux to μMol/s to get an idea of the real intensity. I've usually between 50.000-60.000lx at full power(corner and center measurements) and 45cm distance which results in 750-900μMol/s, which is a bit less than calculated(930μMol/s).
There is a thread about these conversion factors here in the forum!
 
PilouPilou

PilouPilou

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Buy a lux meter(ebay, 10-15$US) and convert lux to μMol/s to get an idea of the real intensity. I've usually between 50.000-60.000lx at full power(corner and center measurements) and 45cm distance which results in 750-900μMol/s, which is a bit less than calculated(930μMol/s).
There is a thread about these conversion factors here in the forum!
Click to expand...
Where!? ;)
I'm looking for the calculation of µmol output or PAR efficiency
 
newguy123

newguy123

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Your math seems correct but there is no driver losses to consider in this math!

The light losses occurs on your walls and by the distance to the canopy. It seems not to much light if you choose the B-version of the drivers to be able to dimm the lights down.
Wall losses are usually between 10 and 20% depending on the distance to the canopy. The more light hits the walls the higher is the intensity loss! So 1200-1350μMol/s.
Start with greater distance(>2ft) and reduce slowly(inch for inch) until you see signs of stress like burned tips or yellow stripes on the leaves. And look at some pictures, with plants that were over-exposed to get an idea of how bleaching looks like.
With dimmer you can also use the lamps if you change later to a larger area. And dimming would make their lamp even more efficient, perhaps up to 65% @half power (350mA).
I also use 8 COB's, but at 1050mA. Therefor I have 40w at deepred separatly(24 Osram Oslon @ 700mA) on a secondary driver, so ~366w total for an area of 9.5sft. No signs of bleaching at 40-45cm distance!

BTW,
The 5-6% losses from the driver are converted directly into heat and increase the overall consumption but does not affect the amount of light that your lamp produces.
Click to expand...
Great idea!
what kind of reflector or lens would you you recommend and what angle if applicable?
 
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Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
newguy123 said:
Great idea!
what kind of reflector or lens would you you recommend and what angle if applicable?
Click to expand...

90°degrees! Most sellers also have different lenses and reflectors in his portfoilio, like cutter.com, timber and so on). You can also find them relatively cheap on ebay(lenses) or alibaba(lenses and reflectors, for instance, from kingbrite/jerry)
 
newguy123

newguy123

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
90°degrees! Most sellers also have different lenses and reflectors in his portfoilio, like cutter.com, timber and so on). You can also find them relatively cheap on ebay(lenses) or alibaba(lenses and reflectors, for instance, from kingbrite/jerry)
Click to expand...
Thanks!

Another question,

Edited the question.

I need a dimmer and after some research I realized that I need a PWM dimmer. Could you recommend me one?
 
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Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
You can use a simple and cheap potentiometer for dimming(2,50$). 100k for one driver, 50k for two drivers, 33k for three and 25k for four drivers.
If you want digital PWM dimming there are a few solutions adopted from the aquaristic guys(called reef controllers). Stevesleds.com has the HurricaneX controller,
Rapidled.com has Storm and StormX controller
but there are a few more like the Growgreen controller and others.
100-150$US
You can also built your own controller using an Arduino and a 0-10v PWM extension card or make your own extension using transistors If you have knowledge of electronics and programming.

@VegasWinner is a good contact person and has a little more sense of the matter than me and he sells an own controller (Growgreen, I believe). He also has an own thread with interesting how-to's for user which like to build his own controllers. Check his threads! If you have luck, he will see that I have mentioned him by his username..
 
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