JSB99
Well-Known Member
Not sure why you'd need the reducer. The 4" hole should work or be close to it. Again, with the filter and running than fan on a lower speed, you might not create any negative pressure.
ventilation help please from experience
- Thread starter semajkroy
- Start date
Not sure why you'd need the reducer. The 4" hole should work or be close to it. Again, with the filter and running than fan on a lower speed, you might not create any negative pressure.
semajkroy
Well-Known Member
ok thanks and yes my tube is 6" i don't believe th make 4 ether I was just going to use a 6-4 reducer from the light to duct I know it makes more sense to use 6 " everything since the tube is but my problem is still the intake .. I'll only have about a 2' x 2' space I between the hole in the wall and the box a Y connector and two small pieces of 6" duct will be hard to fit in especially if it insulated ductwork
semajkroy
Well-Known Member
rerucer so the hole on the outside of the closet wall stays 4" but opens up to 6 inside the closet . And i could crack the door or find a way to let air sneak through but the whole point behind me putting a hole in the wal and ducting to the box was for light leaks and so thr closet could stay vlosed
JSB99
Well-Known Member
Door slabs are pretty cheap at home depot. What if you got one, took the hangers off the original and mount them to the new one, then you can cut a couple 4" holes (or a 6" hole) or cut 4" off the bottom so there's a big gap for the air intake? It would save you from cutting a hole in your wall, and when you move out you just put the original slab back on. Slabs are about $30. Then I would suggest 2 4" holes in your cab at opposite ends.
JSB99
Well-Known Member
Or, do this...
Hang the new door on the left side and cut 4" off the bottom
On the right side of your cab, cut 2 4" holes
That way you wouldn't need to use ducting on your cab for light leaks
Have your filter on the left side of your cab so the air has to travel across your plants to get to it
Hang the new door on the left side and cut 4" off the bottom
On the right side of your cab, cut 2 4" holes
That way you wouldn't need to use ducting on your cab for light leaks
Have your filter on the left side of your cab so the air has to travel across your plants to get to it
semajkroy
Well-Known Member
that's a very good thought .also . Your quite clever it just wont work in my case I need for people to be able to go into my room and it be as simple as moving something in front of the hole in the wall to cover quickly plus my doors are glass which means IDE have to replace both which IDE never hear the end of since my wife uses them to get ready
semajkroy
Well-Known Member
no not able to yet the cab is not completely ready im trying to figure this all out before i start cutting and sawing theres just a ton of boxes of equipment and lumber in the room now I'm trying to finalize my plans
JSB99
Well-Known Member
Gotcha. Well, your original idea of having a single 4" hole in your wall going to a 4" Y probably won't provide the extra intake you're hoping for. Even though you'd have a Y your intake is still limited to a single 4" hole.
What I would do in this case is cut 2 4" holes in your wall, run duct from your holes into 2 4" holes in your cab. But, cross your duct over each other (hole 1 goes to intake 2, and hole 2 goes to intake 1) so that you eliminate some light leaks. Then, mount a couple registers over the intakes in your wall to eliminate further light leaks.
you can probably find registers where the vents are all facing towards the floor...
http://www.homedepot.com/s/registers?NCNI-5
The registers would make it look more natural than just a couple holes in your wall
semajkroy
Well-Known Member
yeah I just went and did some more measuring and I think two holes will be my only way they would have to be on top alone another though instead of beside each other the might work I don't know it also look akward nut ill see thanks for all your help
JSB99
Well-Known Member
Get a 4" x 10" register like this one: http://www.homedepot.com/p/TruAire-10-in-x-4-in-2-Way-Wall-Ceiling-Register-H102M-10X04/202524810
Then all you need to do is cut the 4" x 10" square to mount it (might be a little smaller mounting square in the wall). Then instead of running ducting from holes in your wall, just have the 2 x 4" holes on your cab for the intake without ducting. With that approach you could even just cut a rectangle at the bottom of your cab.
Say your wall intake is on the left side of your cab. Move the cab to the right side of the closet leaving about a 4" to 6" gap to the wall. This is where your cab intake would be. This would eliminate any light leaks.
semajkroy
Well-Known Member
so if I was to use a vent or register that large you don't think I would need to duct it ? I'm thinking this could work as long as I used a 6 " fan I'm not sure the 4" would be enough without the ducting to help navigate thr air
.. The other thought I had was using PVC instead of duct any thoughts ? ..
semajkroy
Well-Known Member
and and don't you
and dont you think i would still need a 90 or something on the inside of my cabs intake holes for the light i mean with my bedroom light on im sure some would still go through h that grate into the closet
JSB99
Well-Known Member
Correct. I think you would get plenty of air from a 4" x 10" rectangle in your wall. It would essentially be larger than 2 4" holes going through ducting. Ducting slows air flow so this would be an advantage. And yes, you will want to be using a 6" fan. You'd want to do than anyways since your cool tube is 6" and I'm guessing your filter is 6" as well. I think a 4" fan would be a real bottleneck and you wouldn't get the results you were looking for. Again, using the fan controller will allow you to run it at low speeds but would still move more air than a 4" fan with a reversed reducer. As I mentioned, there are many ways to reduce the noise. Using insulated ducting will provide a lot of noise reduction.
If you use a couple PVC elbows to help with light leaks, you should be fine. There's going to be less drag with the pvc than flexible ducting.
JSB99
Well-Known Member
Trial and error. With the intakes at the opposite side of the register you may be fine. It also may be as simple as taking a 12" piece of wood and having it in between your cab and the 4" to 6" gap. You'd just have to see what works at that point.
semajkroy
Well-Known Member
ok I think you just helped me solve my problem A++++ rep for you if I knew how I am going to go with the sunleaves wind tunnel 6" especially considering its like 4$ more than the 4? ... Wtf by the way ... And could u recommend a good controller for those fans I've read alot about controllers burning out fans especially when dialed down
and by less drag with PVC you do mean more flow right ? Just incase
JSB99
Well-Known Member
Also, no you wouldn't need to duct it at all. The air is going to get sucked into the cab because of the fan. Adding ducting would actually cause drag and you would end up with less air.
semajkroy
Well-Known Member
yeah trial and error errr did that with my first cfl indoor grow i was trying to avoid that but i guess it is inevitable
semajkroy
Well-Known Member
yeah that makes sense
